I have diagnostic trouble codes P0K92 and P0K7K set on my 2008 Gen. II Prius. I have searched the forums and cannot locate these two codes.
I started and drove my car for several miles today, then it started to run rough. I pulled over, then called a tow truck to tow my car back home. I have a high-level scanner/code reader that read P0K92 and P0K7K codes.
Am I correct in thinking that Toyota recommend changing the spark plugs at 100,000 miles on the gen II?
The reason I ask is because on a couple of occasions the ICE ran rough for a couple of seconds when it first started up like it didn't have a spark or something on one of the plugs. Also I've noticed an slight drop in mpg, not just due to the time of year either. In winter I normally average 48-50mpg (UK) but I'm struggling to get mid 40's ATM. My pri has covered 75,000 miles so was thinking of changing them now to see if it improves?
I have a 2006 E350 van, just recently had passenger side injectors replaced along with dummy plugs and stand pipes. I was at the car was spraying it off and noticed it started running rough, just figured maybe some water made its way into the engine bay and something got wet as it was running great. Well its stayed that way and i am getting codes p0264 and p0276. Digging around on the net seems like its ficm or wiring, ficm is 48 volts and 13.5 volts, connectors are on tight and i dont see any wire chaffing kinda stumped. hoping its not 2 bad injectors at once.
View 2 RepliesI have a 94 buick lesabre custom that is stalling intermittently and runs rough intermittently. We have had it for diagnostics and it could not read the codes. We changed the computer and it still can't read the codes. The diagnostic tool says it cannot connect when it is plugged in or it displays white flecks like snow flakes on the tool screen. It is an OBDII. The pin structure of the data connector port is two pins top row and bottom row two pins some blanks and one pin. We don't know how to fix it with no diagnostic codes and we don't know what to do to get the codes because we have changed the computer.
View 8 RepliesLooked around and could not find info on 2 codes. 2004 Prius : P0420 and U0293. One I believe is lost communication with hybrid system. Are these serious?
View 3 RepliesWithin three days the alternator and fuse #23 blew. After replacing these and the fuel filter (because of stalling during acceleration), I took it for a diagnostic check at O'Reileys because the stalling while accelerating worsened, it wasn't shifting correctly and the O/D light began flashing on the shifter. It hit on these 13 error codes:
P7055
P0446
P0750
P0443
P0743
P0135
P0141
P0155
P0161
P2195
P2197
P0423
P1747
I have researched each code (definitions, what to examine/test, and the locaton of each part). My question is that with this many hits is it most likely a problem with the PCM, or should I just proceed with checking each connection, wiring and solenoid individually? The EGR Valve tested fine and the alternator is pushing 14.6 v...
I have a Ford F150 XLT. I have 67000 miles on it and the other night it just started running rough out of no where near idle. Once you got over 20mph the rough running would go away. I took it to get an engine change and engine flushed but it came back. It doesnt always run rough near idle or below 20mph. The Ford dealer says my engine has only 22 psi oil pressure near hot idle and cant engage the VCT phazers and they want to replace the whole engine.
View 1 RepliesI had our '04, 149,000 miles in for PA state inspection and emissions test as well as to be looked at because of a P0505 diagnostic code. The symptom of the diagnostic code was that the ICE would not shut at all. The past few months I simply cleared the code (ScanGauge) and things were immediately back to normal until the check engine light came on again.
Anyway, in response to the P0505 today they replaced the air filter (I checked, it is installed correctly), checked for vacuum leaks (all okay) and cleaned the throttle body. My wife picked up the car this afternoon from the repair shop (independent, but mechanic trained by Toyota for Prius). Upon arriving home she said I needed to drive it because it is acting very strange. We drove it this evening and indeed it is acting strange. A number of times the engine revved up to 2800-3000 rpm when my foot was off the gas, e.g. slowing to go around a corner or even when sitting at a traffic light. The SOC was normal (blue bars), not high or low. It was also interesting, because even though the transmission was in D, the car was not pulling to go forward, e.g. at the traffic light-- in D, engine revving, but car just sitting there as though it was idling or ICE off.
The ICE would shut down and go to battery mode appropriately. However I noticed that the mpg would not go about about 110 when backing off the gas going down a long hill at around 50 mph (engine warm, battery normal charge). Normally this would bump it up to around 200.
This latter symptom of mpg not going about 110 is a bit subjective and we only drove around 20 miles this evening, but I know we did not experience the engine revving before the car being serviced today.
Is there a way to reset or delete all failure codes without a diagnostic tool? For example by disconnecting the batteries? Is it even a good idea?
It seems that my Phaeton has got some codes saved that prevent certain system to work properly, for example the RDKs.
I am charged with caring for a 2002 VW Jetta, V6, automatic transmission, on which I am reading error codes P0030 and P0811 with Malfunction Indicator Light on. The car has 82k miles on it.
P0030 seems to be for Bank 1 Sensor 1, but I have not found an authoritative source. I am seeing P0811 being discussed mainly with relation to manual transmissions, but there are mentions of some sensors, and even ATF, as independent causes. I believe the ATF was changed less 5k miles ago, but I need to confirm. The ATF was extremely dirty at the time.
My '96 K2500 w/7.4 is running rough.
I've replaced: cap, rotor, fuel pressure reg, injectors (Bosch Design 2's), plugs, wires.
Had it timed today and it still runs rough. Really rough sometimes. I'm getting no codes.
In the morning when the engine is cool, I'm going to pull the pugs and check them, and verify the plug wires are installed correctly.
We have a 2005 Prius with 77,400 miles on it. My wife came home from a short trip yesterday saying the engine was shaking the car and the CEL was flashing. About 4 months ago we also had the CEL come on but not flash and it ran a bit rough but not as bad as it is now. I was told by our local dealer that a flashing light is worse than if the light comes on and stays on. When this happened 4 months ago at 74,000 miles the dealer said they downloaded codes P300, 303, and 304 and that I needed to replace all 4 fuel injectors.
I realize that 300 is a general misfire code and 303 is a misfire code for cylinder 3 and 304 is for cylinder 4. After reading some advice on here 4 months ago, I cleaned my MAF sensor, ran some fuel injector cleaner through a tank of fuel, replaced all 4 spark plugs, and started buying Chevron gas. The CEL stayed off and our mileage went back to normal. I thought I had solved the problem but now this after 3000+ miles. I checked all the ingitors, connections, spark plugs, and wires yesterday and all seem to be in good condition. Maybe they were right and the fuel injectors are going bad. I am at a loss as what else to do other than take it back to the dealer now and plan do that this afternoon.
I was driving along the highway cruising at around 100 km/h when out of nowhere the car started driving a little rough so I look down and the ASR (traction control) light was on. I got off the highway, shut it down and fired it back up. The ASR light was off and car running like normal. When I got home I scanned it and these codes came up:
The catalyst code if from my catless turbo-back exhaust which I plan to fix next month with a tune. Anyway I cleared all codes and continued on my way without any other hiccups. So is my MAF sensor dying/dirty? ECU? N75 valve? Boost leak? I'm making a boost leak tester today just to 100% eliminate that variable, though I'm fairly certain I'm good there.
The car is mostly stock except for a few bolt-ons, all of which I've had installed for thousands of kilometers now. Here is what isn't stock, not including suspension, wheels, etc:
Forge 008 diverter valve
034 Motorsports PVC silicone hose kit
Samco boost hose kit
Forge silicone turbo inlet pipe
Eurojet SMIC
custom built 2.5 stainless, catless turbo back
AEM Dryflo short ram intake
GLI MFA cluster
I have a 2008 Sedona with the following trouble codes: P0018, P0300, P0302, P0304
I have replaced the coils and plugs, a torn air intake hose, and a camshaft position sensor for the side of the engine with even numbered cylinders.
It still runs rough has a blinking CEL, and gives the same codes.
I found that unplugging any of the myriad of sensors under the hood will keep the ECM in open loop so that it runs like a dream, but as soon as they are plugged back it, the trouble comes back. I used that fact to my advantage to drive the car to the mechanic a few miles away.
After running diagnostics, he says the ECM is bad based on the fact that the number 2 and number 4 fuel injectors stop pulsing after a couple minutes of idling. He says they are not even getting a signal from the ECM. He does not have the equipment necessary to flash a new ECM and recommends going to the dealership for a new one and getting it flashed there.
My question is, if I am being lied to, what do I need in terms of equipment to get a used ECM, install it and flash it with my VIN myself? If such equipment is cost prohibitive, can I contact one of these companies that sells ECMs and have them send me one preprogrammed with my VIN?
This weekend my CEL went on and stayed there. Everything seemed otherwise fine until yesterday, when the engine started running rough (like it is missing) and the CEL will flash on and off periodically. When I got home, the exhaust smelled like gas. I have an appointment with the dealer one week from today, and am driving my "spare" car in the interim.
View 21 RepliesJust replaced my rear gas tank. Drove for a week with no big issues. Started running a little rough just thought it was debri in the fuel line. While it was sitting for a few days fuel was coming out of the carburator. It drained 15 gallons of fuel from the tank. There was pressure building in the tank when I took off the gas cap. Dropped fuel tank and everything seems to be hooked up ok. Put it back now added gas now the truck wont start even using starting fluid.
View 4 RepliesMy 03 Sante Fe is running a little rough and is stalling. My Mechanic said this P code was going to run me $1300. I'm not very mechanical , but this just seems very high. He said that aftermarket sensors would not work and only Hundai parts for the fix.........
2003 Sante Fe, LX, 3.7 l engine
So my daughter's 2000 Golf Mk4 with 160,000 miles on it was running rough and had 3 codes stored - cylinders 2 & 3 misfire and a 411 secondary air injection problem.
Having had the misfire code before I swapped injectors around and the error code moved cylinders with the injectors so I attempted cleaning them and also cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold. At this point car still running rough but also started smoking badly.
Replaced the following items:
- Spark plugs
- Spark plug wires
- PCV valve
- PCV hose
- Fuel injectors w/ remanufactured
Hose reconnected between secondary air injection pump and air intake - previous owner had duct-taped it in when he couldn't get it to seal I guess. I've never heard it run.
Car running better, idles more smoothly, doesn't stumble or stall like it did before, no error codes coming up BUT car smokes a lot and the fumes make me feel sick just driving it a mile.
The car had never smoked like this before, hasn't had a whole lot of love the last year or two but no real problems either so why the sudden smoke?
At first I assumed it was cleaner being burned off but that should have been gone in under a minute and this is on-going. It's bad enough to not only be embarrassing but apparently dangerous as the fumes are bad.
I have been puzzled to why my truck isn't running right. We were driving down the highway one day and*then all of the sudden it starts running really rough. I changed MAF sensor, plugs and plug wires, oil change, fuel filter and air filter. Still doing the same thing. What this could be? 2003 ford sport trac..
View 11 RepliesI have a 93 Ford Explorer, manual transmission. About a month ago it intermittently started running very rough. I does this wether the weather is rainy or not. The engine has done this when it just started up, cold, and when it's been fully warmed up. I have been able to drive it, but it has been quite a challenge. When running, there is a very noticeable noxious exhaust smell. The check engine light has come on some of the time. When the eec codes were checked it only revealed 522, the car wasn't in park or neutral when running the test.
I have tried clearing and rerunning this test several times, yet 522 still shows up. No other fault codes. Don't know how this would cause engine to perform so bad. The fuel tank has been near full when it happened so I believe the gas to be good/ no water. The engine has a lot of mileage on it, over 200K, so I'm not sure if something inside could be malfunctioning, but don't know how to check. The car will run for days very smoothly before this happens again. I have changed plugs, wires and the pcv valve and it still occurs. It's like the engine is hitting on one cylinder when it happens.
04 trailblazer, 4.2. Running rough and SES light on. Had codes pulled and showed p0340 (CMP sensor circuit malfunction) and p0300 (Multiple engine misfire detected). Replaced the CMP sensor and left negative battery cable unhooked for 20 minutes or so to clear the codes. Upon start up no more SES light and idle was slightly better. Within seconds it SES was back and it is again running poorly. Cruise control is no longer functional as well.
View 7 Replies