Sometime the car is fighting to move forwards when I start to depress accelerator pedal and it sounds like "click click CLICK..." the sound changes from lower to louder depending on how I depress accelerator pedal... (like the car is trying to hard to move)...
View 3 RepliesI have another small issue with my 2004 Prius. I just noticed yesterday that the second I very lightly depress the brake pedal, a little clicking sound is made down below. It sounds like it might be coming from the brake pedal itself or somewhere underneath the hood. It's only when I depress the pedal slightly and it makes pretty much the same sound when I release the pedal. I just had a 5000 mile service done to the car and there were no issues then.
View 14 RepliesI've noticed lately that my Prius (2008) sometimes decides to keep the ICE running even though the engine is warm and the gas pedal is not depressed. I can pulse and glide (with the engine off during glide) the first 5-10 minutes of driving, and then all of a sudden the ICE starts running constantly. I have to press the EV button to be able to glide. Quite annoying... I bought the Prius just to get rid of the ignition jerking.
View 7 RepliesIts a 2005 model with 45000 miles on the clock, so low mileage for the year. The problem with it is the engine starts up ready fr a journey, and as soon as the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine cuts out.
View 7 Replies2013 tdi 6mt. I am noticing that my clutch clicks when the pedal is depressed. it does not happen when I first start driving in the morning, but it seems that once the cabin is warmed slightly it starts then clicks each and every time. It is annoying and it appears to be related to the different temps outside vs the cabin. I did not notice it during summer or early fall but it is cold here now.
View 24 RepliesI have recently purchased a 2007 Gen 2 Prius and sometimes it emits a very annoying squeak. It occurs when the car is stationary, with the brake pedal fully depressed. When inside the vehicle it seems to be coming from behind the glove box. When on the outside and facing the car it seems to be coming from below / behind the electric motor. I have made a recording of it with the noise in question being audible for a couple of seconds at 0:13, and then again at 0:22 until the end. It could be nothing I guess, but this is my first hybrid and I am not too sure what is perfectly normal and what is not.
View 14 Replies2002 camry. The car will not accelerate. The throttle body makes a clicking sound when pedal is depressed.
So.. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts in it. In the mean time located a spare throttle body from a 2003 from a local yard. The old throttle body has a part number 22030-28030 and the replacement has a part number 22030 0H010. The replacement throttle body wouldn't even move when the pedal was depressed.
I put the old one back on.. and now it doesn't click anymore but the car in Park only revs to 2000 rpm's. Its not sticking or having any mechanical issue.
I checked the parts site for Toyota and the replacement is the new number. Superseded. Does the throttle body after replacement need to be reprogrammed? Or whats the deal. I wish I was more Toyota literate when it comes to this.
I recently acquired a 1984 AMC Eagle and I'm having trouble getting it to start. It turns over but the engine stops running unless the accelerator is kept depressed. Also, the car stalled at a light the one time I did get it running, so I'm thinking that there are some issues with the idle or with the carburetor maybe. I live in Colorado and I gather that the idle on these vehicles needed to get adjusted for the altitude, but I assume this has been done already as it has always been a Colorado car and has 125K miles on it. The gas is low, so possibly it might be something as simple as a gas supply issue, but judging by what other owners have posted online, it seems that this stalling problem is common with the Eagle so I think it probably is something more involved.
View 3 RepliesYesterday the Check Engine light came on, the code was P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Error, Performance/Range. I have not yet had the pedal replaced related to the recall (bad me), is the sensor incorporated in the new assembly or is this separate and I'll need to replace it?
View 19 RepliesI just changed the rear rotors and pads on a 2010. Mileage is 145,000, owned since new. It seems the ASC/TRAC light now flashes when pedal is depressed (put car in drive in garage - depress pedal - one beep and light flashes). I had trouble with one of the the caliper pistions, and screwed it all the way out and lost 1/2 teaspoon of brake fluid, so I may have introduced air into the line. Would this cause this? Is there anything unusual about bleeding brakes (as compared to non-regenerative braking cars)?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2014 Passat TDI with a 6 speed manual. When the clutch pedal is depressed between upshifts, there is an audible groaning sound and a vibration in the clutch pedal. The dealer replaced the throwout bearing but the problem persisted. They then replaced the entire transmission and the noise/vibration is still there. The noise follows engine RPM. Is this normal for the TDI powertrain? The dealer had never encountered the noise but they did find another car on the lot with the same noise.
View 2 RepliesOk, I changed my front brake pads and rotors last week and since then everytime I get in the truck and drive for about the first 2 or 3 miles when I push the brake pedal it feels like my ABS sytem is activating. Then it stops and the ABS light comes on but the brake pedal stops pulsating when depressed. Is my ABS going bad or did I possibly do something wrong? I have changed the rotors and pads before without problems....
View 3 RepliesI have some serious vibration at about 40 to 50 MPH only when the accelerator is depressed. As soon as I let off the gas it stops. I have had the tires rotated and balanced and the U joints checked. My Mechanic says he can't figure it out and to drive it until it breaks.
View 3 RepliesNissan Rogue SV 2011 is keyless entry vehicle. When using remote starter, the engine shuts off when brake pedal depressed and the car is restarted to drive away. does this 'turning off/turning on' the engine damage any of the systems of this vehicle. it just doesn't seem a good idea to have the engine turned off and then immediately turned on.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 F250 4x4 Powerstroke with Automatic. I have been having off and on issues for months with the throttle going dead. This only happens when I start it, if it works when started it will continue working until a different start session.
I have replaced the pedal several times before learning how to check its output with a meter and am quite sure that is not my issue at this time. However, when the pedal is depressed the check engine light lites up and nothing happens.
I am thinking it must be the computer itself, but was told there is another sensor or module under the hood that could cause the issue also which is several hundred dollars to replace as would be the computer.
Is there a way to test the computer, and what is this other module/sensor if it exists that could be the issue? Unhooking and rehooking the battery to reset the computer is no longer working to buy me a few more weeks, is there a simple way to reset the computer to try?
I love this truck when the throttle works but I am getting tired of paying on a truck while having to borrow a vehicle to drive to work.
I brought my car to a dealership for its 120,000mi check-up, and they told me that the front axle boots were torn. They replaced the right axle, and on the ride home, I noticed a burning smell. Short story is four return trips, and the right axle replaced three times (including the initial replacement), and the smell has finally gone away. The weird part is not that I went back to the same place four times instead of giving up, it's that they told me this last time that they moved the replacement #2 right axle to the left when they installed replacement #3.
Why would they do that? Why would the smell go away if the issue was with that axle? I looked it up, and the same part is used on the driver's side and passenger side, so it wasn't as though they installed a left axle on the right the first two times. Does this mean the "new" axles were just new-to-me and had been reconditioned? If reconditioned, would it matter if a previously left axle was mounted on the right?
Meanwhile, about six weeks after replacement #2, the car started making a thumping noise when the accelerator was depressed at a speed over 35mph (but not when coasting above 35mph or with the gas on below 30-35). I was wondering if it was misfiring or something, but lo and behold! That noise went away with the axle switching. Way back at replacement #1, they replaced the boot on the left but not the entire axle until #3.
So I done some routine maintenance on my car today as I have had it just over a month. Done the oil, filter, thermostat and coolant today. This is the 2azfe, 160,000 k's.
As the title suggests, the accelerator pedal has stopped working, but I'm pretty sure its something I have done. I noticed the idle was a bit strange at times when warm, from third to second gear changes the rpm would jump up to around 1200 rpm, but if I changed from 4th to third gear the rpm would drop down to normal idle. So I decided to try clean the throttle body.
I had done this before on our 5sfe's which we no longer have. All I done was disconnected the air intake hose from the throttle body and sprayed some TB/carby cleaner in. On the 5sfe I could run the engine with the intake pipe off and I tried to on this too. It started and quickly stalled. Ok no big deal. So I put it back together and restarted it ok. It run fun. I gave it a few rev's via the engine bay throttle control and it revved ok. I never thought at this stage to check the accelerator peddle itself. Wasn't until the me n the family went to go somewhere I realised I had no throttle. Strangely, with the engine off I noticed the engine bay throttle control seems a bit notchy.
Anyway, tomorrow I'm gonna disconnect the battery to reset the ECU, and check fuses. Could the throttle bottle/carb cleaner have affected a sensor somehow? There was no problem before I done this so I know its self inflicted.
The Check engine light on my 2006 Prius came on and I used my OBD reader to determine the code was P1121 - "Accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor - range/performance problem". I cleared the code to see if it would register again and a few weeks later same code showed up, but after driving it awhile the check engine light went out with out me clearing it and it remains off. The car drives normally with no other problems and when I monitor the APP sensor output I don't see anything particularly unusual. I can spend the $300 to have a new pedal installed, but I'm not sure there's problem especially if Toyota's design allows for a non-catastrophic failure mode.
My question is how does Toyota's engine control module manage a failure of the APP sensor? Is there a fail safe backup or is there potential for loss of throttle control like we heard about years ago in the news?
2012 Elantra - 105,000 miles 6 speed transmission
Throttle seems to be sticking and causing engine to rev between shifts, and staying slightly on after I let off the gas
Engine continues to rev up uncontrollably for about 10 seconds after feathering the gas pedal (between shifts). If I floor the gas pedal and release it quickly, it closes the throttle and fixes the issue.
Thought it may be a sticky throttle body, sprayed a generous amount of Carb and Choke cleaner into throttle body...did NOT resolve the issue. Its a Drive by wire, so no throttle cable to blame or to clean.
Turns out, the accelerator pedal assembly it self, is not returning/springing back to "up" or closed position and is sticking during the first few degrees of travel. It is very dirty, and gold.
How to clean/lubricate this thing? Its plastic. Or should I just order the replacement? I hope the pedal isn't programmed to the car itself? shouldn't be...but you never know
I experience a sound, like a one stroke scrape of a piece of cardboard across sandpaper, after driving off 20/30 feet after starting the T-reg. I discussed this with the VW tech, and he said something about the drive by wire system engages something, and creates the scraping sound, VW thinks this is normal, and there is no fix for this.
What is this scraping sound? The sound happens once and only once every start of a journey, happens even when I am going straight ahead, and at slow speeds (about 20km/hr).
As the title states, I've having a problem with my civic. It makes this clicking/grinding noise during 4 separate occasions:
1) turning to the right
2) going in reverse
3) applying the brakes <30 MPH
4) engine braking- I hear a grinding at higher speeds when I let off the accelerator.
2004 Honda Civic EX, 5 sp MT, 1.7 L, ~172k miles. I'm not a mechanic, but do almost all my maintenance at our hobby shop on base.
I first noticed this noise only when applying brakes approaching a stop sign. I checked my pads and rotors and they looked good. The noise is coming from the front drivers side of the car. Pulled the pads off and they appeared to be wearing differently (only slightly). Regardless, I replaced the pads and rotors. The problem persisted. I checked the wheels for play to see if it was a wheel bearing, but there is no play.
Then, I noticed the sound when going in reverse and turning to the right. All information I found pointed to a faulty CV axle. From the outside, the boots were normal. No tears, no grease. It didn't make any specific noise when turned, but oh well. I replaced both of them today. Replaced the transmission fluid with genuine Honda. Pulled out of the parking lot of the hobby shop and the noise persisted.
Ball joints appear to be fine, wheel bearings appear to be fine. The guys at the shop suggested maybe it was the caliper not engaging correctly; perhaps air in the lines. Tomorrow I'm going to bleed the brake lines and see if that works. Otherwise, when else would cause this noise? Video attached....
There are 3 parts to the video. 1 is the last few seconds of me slowing down from an on ramp. I click the turn signal apply the brakes and you hear the noise. The next section is again slowing down at a stop sign. The last section is backing up out of a parking spot.