I'm getting a noise that sounds like "woooooooooo" from the right front of the engine compartment when the outside temp gets below about 20F and I just start the car. The colder it gets, the longer the noise lasts.
I suspect it's the pump that's part of the CHS. Just a very wild guess. The noise goes away when the car starts to warm up. No drive ability problems.
My MIL has been intermittently showing up, and I'm pulling DTC P1151 - Coolant Heat Storage Tank. This is the only DTC that I'm getting. I have recently replaced the Coolant Control Valve, as I had been getting a P1121, and attempted to refill the coolant myself.
View 5 RepliesI got a warning light that the Toyota dealer said indicated that the Coolant Storage Assembly tank had gone bad. It's not leaking, just not working. It's a very expensive fix and in the little bit of research I've done I'm wondering whether it needs to be fixed. My understanding is that it takes warm coolant and stores it in a thermos-like container to stay warm a few days to assist cold starts. However, I live near San Francisco and the weather is very mild here. We might have a few below freezing days in the winter, but for the majority of the year nights are only 50 degrees, and usually only 40 degrees n the winter. So, do I really need this fixed? It seems that since the weather here is so mild it should be fine. BTW, I haven't fixed it since the light went on in January and haven't had any problems starting the car so far.
View 2 RepliesI know that you're supposed to hear a soft whining noise when starting up and shutting down the car, especially in cold weather. For at least a year now, the noise coming from my front left has gotten much louder and more obnoxious, especially in cold weather.
From what I've seen on this forum so far, I think it is the coolant heat transfer pump. Does that sound right? Or could it be a different pump or piece of some sort? Seems like there has been confusion on this issue, from other threads I've read.
The noise has gotten louder and longer, it lasts about 10-15 seconds now. Especially in the winter, it sounds really bad, I'm afraid the pump is going to fail this winter.
I have an 05 Prius with pump issues. My coolant storage pump has been making an intermittent coarse squealing noise since I've owned the car. It seems to be worse in cooler weather. It only happens when turning the car off. Does this pump only operates after shutting the car off? If that's the case, then I won't worry too much about it. If it's supposed to function when the car is on, then I may worry. Does the pump keep running until it's finished, or is it just a timed cycle? I'm concerned if there's air in the line, it may prevent the pump from completing it's job if it's on a timed cycle. Also, if I have to replace this pump, how would I go about bleeding all of the air out of the system?
View 5 RepliesLooks like my mystery growling noise at idle is the WP going bad. Not leaking but making a racket at idle.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2004 Dodge stratus recently it makes a really loud noise for like 15 seconds then stops if I have the heat or air on. If I don't have it on it doesn't make the sound but either way after 15 mins of driving white smoke will come out of the passenger side and a funny smell. It starts fine isnt overheating, and drives fine.
View 4 RepliesI finally have a first 'major' problem with my Camry 2004 V6 XLE right at 75K ish.
The last two days I've been hearing my power steering pumping making that familiar 'whirrrrr' noise. I thought it was just the pump going out because it has always made some noise when it was cold. Lo and behold, I checked my fluid today and found it was completely dry. I knew it wasn't a good thing because when fluids are dry, they must go someplace. Either way, I got a gal of Dextron ATF in the trunk now.
I filled it up and all was good, so I started to look around for obvious leaks. I did find a hose going to a metal line that DID seem to be dripping, but I wanted to see if maybe others had the same problem and found it was to be a different thing leaking/running down or if this is a common issue.
Not sure if the hose is a dealer only thing. It does look like it's leaking from the end. I could get one of those screw tightening clamps to see if the clamps isn't putting enough 'squeeze' on it. I couldn't see a tear on the hole, but I'm assuming it's a high pressure hole, so it won't leak unless I'm doing a lock to lock turn.
I have a lexus rx 330. Pump started making noise and low on fluid. We replaced all the belts and new pump. After installing new pump it was leaking from fill cup cap when driving also making a lot of noise on cold start. Mechanic said new pump was bad so we put in another one. Car ran fine as soon as we put it in and bleed good. Following morning again a lot of noise on cold start and noise goes away about 10 minutes but again small amount of fluid leaking from cap on fill cup. I replaced the rubber ring on cap to get a tight seal but again nothing.
View 6 RepliesFirst background: G2 car has 215,000 mi and recently got P1121 scan code, so I replaced the coolant control valve. that's when high coolant temp and no cabin heat started.
on CCV top nipple connected to hose that had a dot on it and hose goes under inverter cover on right, next nipple down went to hose slightly to left of first hose, bottom hose goes to thermus can. initially ran car in diag mode with high heat, no heat in cabin.
so I got a Autel 519 scan code reader and I see now that the only code is a P0505 (idle air control malfunction)
taking car down my road for short test run, I turn off cabin heat completely and watched the ECT. after a while it climbs to around 220, then while engine is running quickly goes to 245F then 260F. At that point in time (around 245F) the high temp indicator lights up, temp stayed at 260ish so I return home. With car in park, cabin heat off - the temp returns back down to 220F. if I rev the engine temp again climbs.
I have gone through all suggestions, open radiator bleed valve, manually 'pumped' coolant hoses, turned on/off high heat in cabin and finally with car off removed and jumped the CHS multiple times for about 20secs.
Have purged the coolant system over period of days and coolant appears to be full as level is near top of radiator cap, no bubbling, no gurgling.
However 2 mentioned problems continue... I am starting to suspect coolant thermostat but it would seem strange that it would go at precisely the same time as coolant control valve.
Prius 2009 inverter coolant pump failure 51,300 miles....
View 8 RepliesMy 2006 Prius with 120k miles has coolant seeping around the water pump. I called around to get quotes on replacement cost, but one place said the thermostat should be replaced at the same time, while the other said it shouldn't. (BTW, I will have the belt replaced at the same time).
View 8 RepliesGot a check engine light with a P2601 error code this morning - Coolant Pump Control Circuit Range/Performance.
View 3 RepliesWe seem to be getting reports of failed inverter coolant pumps here on just about a daily basis. I'm wondering if they're all just failing now or if this is something of a "backlog" of failures that started in Winter but are only really being detected now.
View 14 RepliesMy 2007 Prius with 162k miles had an Inverter Coolant Pump Failure Monday 6.5 hours from home when my wife was driving it home from a trip. Red Triangle, (!), vsc, and check engine light. She was able to make it about 20 minutes to a dealer where it was diagnosed. Luckily no further damage was done to vehicle. Yes, she should have stopped but continued on since car was driving OK.
View 7 RepliesI own a 2006 JDM prius with 323,000 km. The inverter coolant pump failed recently (got P0A93 code and no agitation in coolant reservoir). I ordered a replacement on eBay and am awaiting arrival. I may need to do some light driving in the in the interim and am thinking about installing a 10 inch fan in the space between the inverter/transmission and radiator to keep things cool. Is this wise or should I just let the car sit until the new pump gets here?
Also, I am burning oil...I usually have to top up 1 to 2 quarts in between changes. Is there anything I can do without tearing down the engine? A friend of mine suggested using Lucas oil stabilizer the next time I change oil...could this have any negative implications?
My 2006 prius has 102,000 miles and the coolant pump for the thermos is getting alarmingly noisy.
View 19 RepliesAfter a long day at work, I stepped out of my '06 Prius and was greeted by an obviously struggling CHRS pump. It sounded like it was having a hard time maintaining speed, and to my ears was screaming; better replace soon...
View 2 RepliesOn the 06 Prius I have been working on, I noticed a light build up of pink coolant residue on the inside of the ICE water pump pulley. I assumed that this was due to a coolant leak from the weep hole, which points to an impending water pump failure.
View 16 RepliesI loosened coolant pump belt when my gen II prius had only 200 miles on it. I retensioned it approximately 70% less. Where I could turn water pump pully by hand breaking traction with drive belt using all my strength.
The ice coolant pump just started to leak at the weep hole at only 63000 miles and 5 years old. I was sure the reduced tension would make coolant pump last much longer.
After retentioning it (brand new at 200 miles) I could deflect belt about one inch as opposed to not able to deflect belt at all!
I bought my 2008 JDM Prius a couple of weeks ago, at 84,500km. After a week, it started losing engine coolant. (Great start! Hope it's not a sign of things to come...) Fortunately, covered by a 3 month Dealer Warranty - hopefully. Yet to make the claim.
Anyway, went to the local Toyota Dealer to get some of the proper Toyota SSL (Super Long Life) Coolant to top it up. Got chatting with the Service Agent about Prius Service and what HSD Adjustments are possible (not many) and showed him my symptoms.