(CORRECTION: AM1 fuse blew, not ECU-IG)
(Correction 2: Update 6/3/2014 AM-2 fuse blew, not ECU-IG)
What caused my shutdown and the ECU-IG fuse to blow while driving normally? I want to get educated prior to the dealer's response.
I went to a local oil change place on Tuesday morning for an oil change. Had them change the air filter (engine and cabin) at the same time. The odometer is at about 165k on my 2006 base model Prius. When the job was completed and I pushed the power button, Christmas tree. Giant red triangle of death, check engine, and the display picture with the "!" in the middle. Can't put it into gear. Engine runs briefly and cuts out. Maybe they tripped a wire when they changed the filter? Nope, all was good there. Silly little tech put it on his code reading machine to no avail.
I called the local Toyota dealership that I hate and don't use and they gave the oil change guy instructions to jump it. No dice. So I leave it in the bay and call a tow truck. Towing guy figures out how to get it into neutral and puts it on his truck to take to local hated dealership (mistake). Long day of fighting with oil change place, followed by super star service from larger dealership in Austin (60 miles away) with the service rep I always use. He diagnosed the likely problem over the phone. I didn't even let local hated dealership do the diagnostics. I put that little Prius baby on a flatbed and took her to Austin.
Well, the codes pulled were P0A0F (engine failed to start) and P3190 (poor engine power). Well, that is the magic combination along with the experience of my service rep and tech to confirm that too much oil was added. It's was about a half of a quart. Crazy, right? Well, they cleaned the throttle body, interior of intake manifold of oil residue and all is well again. The big battery was completely dead so the dealership charged it up for me.
Next morning I pick it up and big battery is charged about halfway. Not sure if they completely charged it the night before. However, by the time I got to work (maybe 5 miles), battery indicator was full (green). I had an oddity when I had a longer stop light idle later that afternoon where the battery went from 4 blue bars down to purple, but drove the 60 miles back home and today the charge seems to be fine (4-5 blue bars). I have a sneaking suspicion that there may be more issues, but for now all is well. I'm going to get the 12V battery changed soon because we're still riding on the original.
I experienced some weirdness trying to jump start a friends 2001 Prius and the 100 amp fuse got blown. I read the user manual and am pretty positive that I did not reverse polarity on the auxiliary battery, with the jumper cables. But as soon as I hooked up the cables the headlights and taillights came on, as well as both turn signal lights steady on, and I couldn't turn them off. I checked and checked. The key wasn't in. All the headlight switches were off. I just couldn't figure it out. After trying to let the auxiliary battery charge for a while this way, the car was still totally dead and it was weird and I gave up.
The next day my friend called AAA and they couldn't start it either. But she said they were pretty clueless, refusing to believe at first that the battery was in the trunk, and suspects maybe they reversed the polarity on the cables when they tried to jump it. She didn't see the headlights come on this time (although it was now during the day).
Recently while I was stupidly upgrading one of my dome lights while it was on (door open and yes stupid) I shorted it and blew the fuse. Of course jump in the drivers seat and go buy another fuse. To my amazement the car was dead. No power up starting, no door locks no fob operation or anything. The flashers and brake lights and horn worked fine and that was it.
What a great single point immobilizer!
Problem is you will lose clock, settings like reverse beep off, mpg, etc. I was dead in the water until I remembered in the engine fuse box there is a spare 15a fuse (and the fuse puller). The dome light fuse is there as well. Replaced the dome light fuse and all is well. Drove off like I had saved the world. Very strange. Looking at the wiring the junction block that the dome light fuse feeds also feeds LOTS of other areas of the car including the ECU.
Want to keep your kids from driving the car. Forget taking the keys. Pull the dome light fuse.
I replaced the hybrid battery in my 2005 Prius today & when I disconnected the 12v battery the wrench arced & I assume that I blew a fuse. I have looked, but have not found anything. I hope I am missing something obvious.
View 5 RepliesI've had it happen a few times over the past few years (07 Pri) that when I have to brake really hard, the front lower dash 12V lighter outlet fuse blows. Seemed odd at the time but when I replaced the fuse and everything came back to life I kind of forgot about it.
Today we had a crazy idiot try the mad dash across 4 lanes of traffic and that of course made all cars slam on their brakes. Wouldn't say it was a ABS type slam but certainly hard braking.
Anyway, I heard the chime of a 12V device powering off and a bit later we noticed the MFD, radio, and clock were all off. Probably everything cut out at the same time but obviously attention was on the traffic not the electronics.
I saw some people mention that is the ACC fuse which I'm about to go and check on, but what is causing this. Just seems odd that hard braking causes such electrical issues. Wouldn't think there would be an overlap in systems but maybe?
I am having the headlight problem on my 2006 prius (and have seen thousands of posts about it). The drivers side goes in and out and has done so for 6 months. But now the passenger side is doing the same and the 12 volt outlet fuse has blown. There are 133000 miles on it (nothing done to the vehicle except oil changes and new tires) Replacement bulbs from eBay are on the way. I have replaced the fuse and its ok now. I don't know if they are unrelated or if this a battery issue.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Yukon that experiences a complete electrical shutdown (like if I turned car off and removed key). The shutdown happens sporadically with no particular cause. It has rained everyday here in Fort Lauderdale for 45 days straight. About two weeks ago my Yukon's battery went dead after running the radio for two hours without the car on. I received a jump and the everything seemed fine, but the passenger's A/C came out hot for some reason. Once the car was turned off and on again all went back to normal.
This week the Yukon began shutting down. If I am driving it seems to just flicker of and on, but keeps on moving. If I turn the car off I have to wait 5-15 minuets then it just starts normally.
I had an after market sub-woofer w/amplifier installed (Best Buy) about two months ago. Don't know if this matters but it has been the only electrical modification done on the car.
So I have an Android smartphone. That I always put on the charger in my 2005. However. I have blown the fuse to the cigarette lighter. Both the one in the center console and the one under the passenger side dashboard.
The last time that happened. I bought the indicated 15 Amp fuse (as the Owner's Manual indicates - vaguely) Only to find that swapping out fuse 20 IIRC. Yielded no power to those ports.
So I added in a set of LED lights for my license plate and parking lights. In addition to HID's for the headlights tonight. At some point my tails/parking & license plate lights shut off. I assume its a fuse, I'm wondering if this is common or the result of low quality product.
I've used the same installer/lights on every car I've had for the last 5 yrs and never an issue. No issues in my Scion Xd, Mustangs and so on.
I own a 2005 GX 470 recently I got in to drive the car and the navigation screen would work for climate control and audio functions but the map would not display. A bunch of warning lights were also on ABS, VSC etc. Upon investigation I found the ECU-B fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse and everything appeared to be fine. About 3 days later and the same thing happened again. I again replaced the fuse and it lasted a couple of days and blew again. I have not been able to isolate it to any one thing that seems to trip it. How to best determine the cause of the issue?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2004 Lariat 4x4 with a no start condition. I had lights, but it wouldn't crank. I then discovered that it would not shift out of park. Turns out that it had a blown fuse. I did not have any of that type (the funky square 20a fuses) so I pulled the heated seats fuse (30a) and threw it in there, tried to start it and blew it right away. Is there a common short to look for on these? I believe that the guy that owned it before me had a satellite radio in it, and could it be a bare wire from that setup possibly blowing the fuse?Just trying to get a head start on tracking down the short.
View 14 RepliesThis is very weird. A strange noise occurs intermittently. It sort of sounds like a pulley slipping on a steel shaft briefly followed by a brief rattling noise and may or may not blow out fuse number 14 (A/C Pressure switch, backup lamp and daytime running lights, redundant speed control heated pcv, ABS, Reverse park aid, EC Mirror), then the brake light and the ABS light is displayed and the cruise control quits working. It does not ALWAYS blow out the fuse as I discovered yesterday.
The first time it happened (about three months ago) I was doing 75 when it happened and was unable to figure out what it was. Yesterday it happened and I new it was fuse number 14. I replaced the fuse and it happened again within 3 minutes. It may be when I turn the wheel to the left. The first time it happened I was changing lanes, yesterday when it happened I was on a ramp turning to the left. In the driveway it happened as a backed up and turned the wheel to the left. I cannot identify where the noise comes from. After the noise and the blown fuse the truck runs just fine and I can continue to drive.
2008 Prius. I am just starting to have power door lock system problem. The power locks would not work either with the fob button, the keyless entry, or the door buttons. I have replaced the battery in both key fobs. I have also found the 25 Amp fuse in position 11 of the fuse block located driver's side instrument panel (Power door lock system) was blown and have replaced the fuse. The fuse has blown again after 3 days. I can still start the car with without inserting the key. Why is my fuse blowing?
View 11 RepliesSo... have a 2010 Prius V, about 80,000 miles.
Tried to start it this morning and got a "Check Hybrid System". No start. Brought it to the local Toyota mega dealer here in Lakeland, FL. (They were pretty organized and on things, so I was pretty impressed.)
Anyway, just got a call back and it's a junction block fuse that was blown. Questions I have are
1) What is this a fuse for? The actual hybrid battery?
2) Where is it located, and
3) (the EE in me) Doesn't something usually cause this fuse to blow?
Dealer will attempt to replace fuse and drive it around to see if it's fixed, but something typically causes fuses to blow.
I bought my first Lexus, great car. 2003 GX470 with 106k. I have had one problem with the fuse for the dome light. This issue has been on going since I bought the vehicle a couple months back and I can usually fix the problem by just replacing the fuse. Now when I try to replace the fuse, the fuse sparks and blows before I can even put it into the slot. Obviously there is something going on here that won't allow the fuse to be inserted before blowing. How to rectify this issue?
View 2 RepliesMy 2007 F150's turn signals and hazard lights quit working. I checked the fuse and it was blown. Once I pulled the old fuse out the truck wouldn't start at all. What happened?
View 3 RepliesI have a concern about not hearing the whirring sound after shutdown anymore. I know that the sound comes from a small electric-pump that pumps 3 liters of coolant into a thermal container (to keep it hot) everytime I turn the hybrid system power OFF. When the power is turned back ON, the coolant is pumped back into the engine.
I've noticed that after I got an oil change and tire rotation at Pep Boys the sound is no longer there after shutdown or power up. Then after a couple of days I took the car to the dealer to fix the tire rotation (because Pep Boys didn't do a good job at rotating the tires, there was a woo woo woo sound while driving) and the dealer also did a multi-point check, but they didn't say anything was wrong with the car.
Yesterday my 2008 Prius with 95,000+ developed a new noise after turning it off and it has me a bit worried. I took an audio sample? Last night it occurred for like 5-10 minutes. Now today I went to turn it on and before I even pressed the power button it made another noise that I've never heard before which I didn't get on audio. It turned on fine, I let it run for a few minutes and then shut it off and the noise I got on audio occurred for several minutes. The noise comes from the driver's side by the electric motor. The clip should play in iTunes or Winamp, took it on my iPhone so its kind of low in volume.
View 19 Replies2005 Prius, 90k, original battery I think, started beeping on shutdown, then wouldn't start today (cold). Got a new battery, but the back hatch wouldn't open, so I tried to jump it following owner's manual instructions. Headlights came on at first (although stalk switch was off), but doors/car wouldn't respond. Disconnected and reconnected jumpers, lights off this time, still no response when trying doors or starting car.
View 7 RepliesRecently (5-6) months my Gen II has been making some weird sound when I turn it on before the ICE starts. Also when I turn it off after the ICE shuts down. I really don't know how to describe the sound so I took some clips of it. Sort of a high pitched grind maybe? Car has 45xxx, just had the Hybrid water pumped replaced.
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