On my 05 Prius (65K miles) I recently had my local Toyota dealer replace both the inverter water pump (for free per recall) and main engine water pump (~$500 based on their recommendation because of some coolant leakage). 1 week later, I got the P1121 code coming off and on intermittently.
My dealer says that the work they did is not related to P1121.
I had my hybrid water pump replaced (free, under recall) about a month ago. Now the check engine light comes on intermittently, and it's with error code 1121 (Coolant flow control valve sensor stuck). I've seen other people on this forum hypothesize that the work could cause this error (if not bled properly, leaving air in the system). But my dealer said the work had nothing to do with this error and I need to replace the control valve. How to suggest to my dealer that it could, in fact, be due to their work and that I think they should fix it for free?
View 15 RepliesI have worked on several minor to moderate engine issues over the years with various brand cars so I was thinking about replacing my leaking main water pump (not the Hybrid pump).
View 9 RepliesI have a small problem, the dealer that serviced my car just told me that my water pump was leaking and I was low on coolant. I can't remember when was the last time I checked the coolant level but when the dealer top off the coolant, he nearly used the entire bottle. Needless to say, I believe the radiator was pretty low on coolant.
Now I've never noticed a high temperature warning lamp or ever broken down. Today at 125,000 miles, I went to change my spark plugs. The 1st plug to the far left as you are facing the car has oil in the spark plug. This is freaking me out, could my engine be damaged from the low coolant?
Toyota dealer said computer indicated the water pump and belt needed replacing. We decided to do the replacement ourself. Now the light comes on which indicates car is running hot. We did replace the coolant. The 2005 Toyota Prius never ran hot before the replacement, What did we do wrong?
View 3 RepliesActually 2 very similar questions about my Prius 2007.
1. My water pump was replaced by a dealer due to failure some half a year ago at 95,000 miles. Yesterday, after oil change (98,000), I was told it is recommended to replace engine coolant. Does this sound right? Don't they change coolant when replacing the pump?!
2. Identical question about HV pump. It was replaced at 80,000. Now they recommend do change the coolant for hybrid system. Don't they have to do it when replacing the pump?
I want to do everything necessary to maintain the car. But don't want to spend money for something that is not needed.
So I drive a 2008 and a couple months ago I started getting the Check Engine Light. Codes P1121 & P1116. Found out it was most likely related to a faulty Coolant Control Valve or Electric Water Pump. Since the pump was just recently changed I went ahead and got the valve changed.
The light is still coming and going but now when I go on the expressway that red triangle with the exclamation pops on with a little beep. Only pops on for a couple seconds and keeps coming back until I drive a bit slower.
Two weeks ago my CEL came on and the code was P1121. I checked the coolant level and everything seemed fine, so I figured I'd take it in soon.
View 2 Replies2005 Prius, 105K miles when the check engine light came on.
Scanner report: P1121 accelerator pedal position sensor range/performance problem.
Fix: Coolant flow control valve. (Even though it was still working)
Part number: 16670-21010
What is the to cause to check engine light go off. I will take my car to auto zone tomorrow morning to hopefully get a code and see if I can fix it myself... if not, then I am going to have to go to the dealership.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2006 prius whose check engine light just came on 1 hour ago. I had it diagnosed and it is giving me the p1121 code, or the coolant flow control valve. I checked the coolant level and it was very low. I added fluid, but the CEL is still on. I have to make an 11 hour trip tomorrow.
View 19 RepliesAbout once a week my check engine light comes on. The code is P1121, which is about coolant valve sticking. In about one or one and a half days it times out and i dont get the warning light for another week or so. Do you think I should have something done right away or wait and see what happens?
View 1 Repliesi have a 2005 Toyota Prius that the air conditioner wont work in. it has Freon in it the compressor wont kick so I did some research and my cooling fans aren't kicking on so I did a by pass test and the cooling fans motor is good they just wont kick on. I just replaced my 2 cooling fan relays and they still wont kick on. the check engine light was on in the car when I got it. it throws the code P1121 coolant valve control. I got the part just got to get it put on. Could this part stop my cooling fans from kicking on or my ac compressor from coming on.
View 3 RepliesCode says P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem. I heard that was wrong and its really coolant control valve? The battery drains fast and the can runs like crap. Would this code be doing that to the car?
View 18 RepliesThe check engine light on my '05 Prius has gone on and off a couple of times and is giving me a P1121 code, which I found out means "Coolant Flow Control Valve Position Sensor Stuck". Does this have anything to do with the hybrid electric coolant pump that was replaced under recall a while back?
View 5 RepliesMy check engine light was throwing the code P1121 for the coolant flow valve. Toyota replaced it under a warranty enhancement (I have 134k on it), and since then my mpgs have gone from 46 to 50.
My AC is working much better now, too. My theory is that the valve can be in a semi-failure mode for a long time before throwing a code. Now that My coolant is flowing the way that it should, heat is being dissipated more efficiently.
It's been a long week for me and my 2007 Prius. Brought it to the dealer after receiving my first ever CEL. I have 222,000 miles on the vehicle. The a/c was also blowing warm when the CEL came on. They checked that and told me that the compressor was "breaking up." Then they call me back to tell me that my 12V battery died. They asked me if I had problems with starting the vehicle. I said never. Never had any issues with the car in 222,000 miles.
Well, told them to replace the battery (no choice) and the car is 5.5 years old in Florida heat so it was ready to die. Very suspicious that it died while they had the vehicle, but what can I say. Told them to not repair the coolant flow valve or the a/c until I could investigate further on my own. CEL is now off. The a/c is blowing cool again.
2002 Prius with 94K gave me today P3130, after I tested the Inverter Water Pump I found out that it bad but until I go to the dealer in order to buy the part $147 he was closed. the question is can I drive with the car like this bac home (65 miles) and if I turn on the A/C the Engine will work all the time right? And also after replacing the Inverter Water Pump how can i tell if the problem solved?
View 14 RepliesSo got this P0A93 code when I was driving on the highway about 65mph, scared to me death when big yellow warning light came on so I returned home and turn the car back on after 30 mins the code and all the warning lights were gone I checked under the hood felt the pump everything was good. I just got done 90k maintance on the car from dealer. So my question is that could be computer error or it could be water pump malfunction? On warranty manual the warranty for inverter with converter covers under 100k so dealer should be able to cover the water pump if it's broken? I driven the car today again at normal temperature and full blast AC on, then again no engine check light on and warning light no message.
View 4 RepliesI just replaced the timing chain and water pump on my 1999 K1500 5.7L. After spending several evenings and a few early mornings working on it, I get everything back together and go to start it up. It starts then immediately dies. After double checking that the CKP sensor, two plugs on breather, and a/c and alternator wires (these are all that I unplugged) are connected I try in one more time before coming in to work today.
Timing chain was installed with No. 1 at TDC and mark on cam at 12 o'clock position as stated in the Haynes manual for the truck. I did not remove or even touch the distributor since replacing the intake gaskets ~3 years ago. Will check to see if any codes are showing in the morning when I have my laptop at home.
My brother has a '92 K1500 5.7L in which he had a leaking water pump. He replaced it with an Autozone unit. After replacing the pump, he now states he is experiencing fluctuating temperatures on the gauge. He has little heat at the heater, even after letting the truck idle and after driving it. This was not a problem prior to replacing the water pump. He has put approximately 200 miles on since the replacement and it has been about 2 weeks since he replaced it. He believes he has all the air out of the system, as he has checked the overflow container and radiator several times and the coolant level has not gone down.
This now "suddenly" appears after the pump replacement, we are thinking it is not the temperature gauge sensor or bad thermostat. We are thinking possibly still air in the system or water pump cavitation.