Prius (2004-09) :: Check Engine Light Came - Codes C1253 / C1311 / P0011 / P0012?
Jul 10, 2015
Alright, so I was driving along and everything was fine, I had no error lights and the car was running perfectly. I accidentally went over a lip of this parking lot a little too fast and all of a sudden the check engine light came on!!! I took it to Jiffy Lube and the codes I got were : c1253, c1311, p0011, and p0012. Is my car safe to drive tomarrow? Are these super expensive to fix? Could they have been set off from the curb?
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2008 Toyota Prius Touring. I got a Check Engine Light while at a drive-thru, and my "Automatic" adapter reports this:
I drove the remaining ~60 miles home without incident, and the engine seems to be running smoothly and I don't notice any loss of power or rough idling or anything along those lines.
Going by the first few Google results, a P0011 error could indicate a few things:
-Incorrect camshaft timing
-Wiring problems (harness/wiring) in intake timing control valve control solenoid system
-Continuous oil flow to VCT piston chamber
-Failed timing valve control solenoid (stuck open)
I've had this car for ~3 years and have always been super careful about regular oil changes and maintenance, including dropping an ungodly amount of money getting the "full 100,000 mile service package" at the dealership ~6 months ago.
Suddenly getting a P0011 error code and Check Engine light on a well-maintained 2008 Prius w/ 112,000 miles.
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I have a 2003 20th ann. GTI, it shut off on me on my way to work. It would turn on but only for a sec and turn back off. I turned it on and tried to move it over out the way of traffic and wouldnt move and turn back off. Got the check engine light checked and the codes P1007 which is coolant temp sensor and P0011 which is camshaft sensor. I replaced both and problem not solved car will start but wont go and turns back off, black smoke and a strong smell of gas comes out the exhaust.
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Check engine light came on. Just over 100,000 miles. Car running fine, no new noises or rough running or lack of power. Wife took to get oil changed next day. Dealer diagnosed as a sticking valve. Personally I would have cleared it and seen if it reoccurred but dealer already special ordered valve. Searching on the p0012 code I see nothing like this.
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Check engine light and P0010 code in my Gen III 2010 Prius...
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Show 2 error P0011 and P0014.
Sonata YF 2010 2.0 80.000kms ....
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I have a 2005 Prius with 131k miles. The check engine light came on. I had my mechanic check for codes, he had 3different scanners. There were no codes posted. Next day light went off. It has been off for a week. Now it has returned.
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I have a 2008 Prius that I purchased used last year. It has just shy of 139,000 miles on it. Recently the check engine light came on, and I dropped by AutoZone to have them pull the codes. They are as follows:
C1241
P1121
P3193
I haven't been able to find a full explanation of the codes online, so I need to know what they mean, how much it would cost to fix, and how urgent the repair is. I will be going on a 5 1/2 hour road trip next week, so I want to make sure I'm not going to break my car (or myself!) by doing so with the engine light on.
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My check engine light comes on intermittently, fuel consumption normal. I have not had any noticeable performance issues. I took it to O'Rielly's for a scan but they could not establish a connection to get a readout. Is there a special scan tool needed? The on board Lan Monitor shows EMV codes below, are they meaningful in any way?
Code Sub-code
01-DC 190-38-5
01-D5 190-52-F
01-D8 190-35-1
01-DB 190-11-F
01-DB 110-21-2
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Just last week I bought a 2007 prius from a local dealership in Houston. The check engine light recently turned on and had it checked out by an auto parts store. The codes they read were the p1116 and p1121 (issues with the coolant valve). I know it would cost much to replace the valve, and I am not wanting to pay that much, especially since i just bought the car. I'd also be willing to fix it myself if i had some guide or step by step instructions...
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I have an '09 LS SWB AWD with 86k miles on it. A few days ago the check engine light came on with a message on the dash for me to check the VSC system. The next day the check engine light and VSC warning went away on their own. A day after that they came back on. I pulled the ODB codes and got the following:
P0012 - "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded Bank 1
I took it to my local Lexus dealership and they determined that my VVT-i motor assembly needed replacing. Total cost would be $1,222. Apparently this part regulate the camshaft for variable valve timing. I asked if I should notice a performance dropoff since it's related to valve timing but they said no. They said I wouldn't make it worse by driving it so I took my car back and they would order the part for me.
The next day the check engine light and VSC warning went away on their own again and have not come back on for 3 days now. I don't understand why the warning and check engine lights keep going off on their own if this motor assembly needs replacing. Once again it has been 3 days now and no lights have come on.
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I have a 2006 Sonata with an intermittent check engine light. The light will be on for a few days then goes out for a day or two. This pattern has been going on for about 3 months now. A scan tool was used and showed the code P0011. I know this code has to do with the camshaft timing. My question is should the light be going out on its own if there was a problem with the camshaft timing? Does the engine correct itself and then experience the problem again. Is it normal for check engine lights to go on and off with out being manually reset? Could this be a faulty sensor or loose wire causing the light to go on and off? The car has about 75,000 miles, mostly Hwy, and is driven just about everyday.
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I have a 2007 Yaris, 180,000 miles, The check engine light comes on. With a P0011 code. I know that that could mean either:
blocked oil passage
Mechanical timing fault
Camshaft position a timing over advance
Failed OCV
Or VVT controller assembly fault
Since it's been really cold out I figured maybe it was a blocked oil passage, but after an oil change and quick check - I no longer think that's the problem.
The car runs great and it doesn't seem anything is wrong at all ...
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The check engine light on my 2006 Toyota Camry LE with 95,300 miles came up. The codes that came up on my diagnostic tool were p0011, p0101, and p0113. The code meanings are as follows:
p0011: refers to the VVT (variable valve timing) or VCT (variable camshaft timing) components and the car's power control module
p0101: problem with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor or circuit
p0113: possibly issues with the Intake Air Temperature Sensor
How to solve the issue and get that annoying check engine light off?
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My '05 Prius check engine light has been on for a while now, at first it would turn on for a while then turn off but now it is staying on. I took it to AutoZone and they ran a diagnostic and it returned the codes P1121, P1123, P1150, P1116.
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I've had a 2005 Prius for almost 2 year and 50,000 miles now and had no problems. Recently I decided to do an inverter recall and them some "necessary" maintenance (TB, transaxle fluid, etc). How I have an intermittent CEL, P1112 (Intake air temp sensor) coming on every other day. Before I thought Autozone had another DTC detected (1121 It had something to do with a coolant stacked too high?)
What are the most common check engine light (CEL) or DTC codes and how to deal with them?
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The car was misfiring and the check engine light codes were all sensor coils were bad. Lexus told me that it was coil6 bad and they fixed it. I should have had no problems, I got a whole 2 miles and I misfired and engine light back on. I drove for a while and light went off and then misfired again. Before I bring it back in I was looking for some insight. I can't understand how it wasn't fixed right the first time but I don't want to go back and get a few thousand bill either. Could fixing one coil cause another to go bad.
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I have a 2002 Prius that needs work. The red triangle, PS, and check engine light are all on. It has these codes:
P3100 - 175 (HV ECU internal error. Motor Inverter Current Sensor Malfunction)
p3125 - 287 (Motor Inverter Finv. Inverter Internal Short)
c1259 (HV System Regenerative Malfunction)
I suspect the inverter or even worse the MG2 has burnt windings.
BTW the "infamous" inverter pump seems to be working. I can hear it and see the fluid in the reservoir move.
I suspect it is more a symptom than a problem and will disappear when the real problem is fixed.
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Just tried to leave for work and my check engine light came on. Luckily I just got a scangauge and the error codes are P0441 and P0445. I checked online and for regular Prius is says it could be the fuel system, fuel cap, etc. I'm scared to drive it now and wonder if I should call Toyota Care to tow my car to service.
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I have a 2007 F-150 5.4L and it started throwing codes p0012 p0022 p0345 and would knock and make popping sounds after it warmed up but I could rev it up and it would go away for the most part but would come right back when I started driving it. I have since pulled down the front cover and made sure it was in time, replaced both cam phasers, replaced both vct solenoids, and replaced both cam sensors. Same issue after doing all of that. I have searched the internet and have come up with nothing.
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My 2004 Cadillac CTS 3.6L started running rough, check engine light flashed on and off. Codes P0300 and P0303. The car has about 119000 miles. Could this just be the plugs? The car has been running fine up to today.
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