Prius (2004-09) :: Changing Rear Strut / Cannot Get New One Back In
May 16, 2013
I've been (for the first time) changing my struts on my 08 prius, having read a couple of threads, have manual, etc. The fronts went in fairly easily, but I noticed that when taking out the rear (left), it (the spring) was under a fair amount of compression when it "dropped" out. I was thinking, "how will it go back in once I swap out the strut?".... Also, it seems to me that the stud/spindle is in the way, making it very difficult to get the strut back in as well. I believe I have the vehicle jacked up in the same manor that Patrick Wong shows, with the 2x4 under the axle, and a 2nd jack as well. What is the trick to get this back in???
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Bushings on the rear strut rod and rear carrier assembly where the rod attaches are gone - any source? From what I can tell these are not sourced individually?
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Took it in for an oil change at 90k miles dealer reported a leaking rear right strut and quoted over 1000k for replacement which i obviously declined. Now wanna know what are my options can I change just the one rear side which is leaking and do I have to put the oem or can I put anything aftermarket.
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The tire pressure monitor comes on when there is only .5 difference in one tire. Then it won't go off.
Also, the driver's side mirror will not program and it has a mind of its own just changing randomly every time I back in.
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I just replaced all 4 struts on my 04 Camry. The car has 87,000 on it. I went with the Monroe OESpectrum struts and new strut mounts (Monroe). Springs looked fine, the rubber spring seats were fine as well and the bellows, so reused those items.
I now have a noise in the rear end that I did not have before. It sounds like it is coming from the lower part of the car and is not metal sounding. It is a very dull clunk when going over bumps in the road and is coming from both sides.
I replaced the sway bar bushings a couple years ago. I checked those and there is no play and appear to be fine. Also checked the sway bar links and they seem fine to me, but not sure what makes those bad. Torqued what I could. Used an electric impact wrench on the strut nuts and could not torque that because the rod spins.
I am taking it in on Monday for an alignment and to have the shop see if they can figure out the noise. Is it possible that the new parts could be binding and the alignment may take care of it? I have doubled checked my work and everything appears to be on correct.
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My driver side rear strut/shock has started leaking recently (I've attached a pic). Its counterpart on the rear passenger side is bone dry. My Prius is a 2010 with 78,000 miles, mostly city driving.
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I have a 2009 RX350 with 51,000 miles (just 1000 over warranty). The left rear strut developed a bad leak and has begun making the noises associated with the failed strut. I will be changing out both rears and have two questions that I cannot find info for on the web.
1) I noticed the 2 latches on the side covers inside the back area to remove the panel and expose the rear strut tower, are these the only two latches I need to remove to access the upper bolts, or are there hidden screws or things I need to do to remove the panel?
2) What are the torque specs for the rear strut bolts?
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I need to replace these as they are weakening. Can I get replacements at my FLAPS or are they a Toyota-only item? I'm asking because on another vehicle, I could not get the strut from a FLAPS due to the length not being a standard length with the proper connectors.
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I had my friend of mine who is a mechanic change my struts out this weekend. I had clunking noises from the right strut Toyota and also a tire place said I needed new struts. So I got them replaced now both sides are clunking see the YouTube video.
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I was going to put on some lowering spring on my prius last night but i couldnt figure out how to get the top bearing off. Looking for pictures or a guide or something?
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I replaced my front struts today and afterward the ABS and "(!)" light came on as soon as I turned on the car. I checked the speed sensor lines and they all look okay so I didn't damaged them in the process. The car brakes quite soft but still works and the regenerative braking still works. The mechanic pulled the following codes: C1300 and C1319. I went ahead and reset the ABS light by crossing pin 4 and 13 on the OBD2 connector technique. That reset the lights, and the brake also works as normal as well. After driving around a bit, turned off the car, then turned it back on the lights came back on again.
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While swapping on my winter tires yesterday, I noticed the strut boot (I believe it's called) on the passenger side has a large crack, almost split in two. See picture attached.
The Prius is a 2006 with almost 370K KM (~231K miles), and I am hoping to keep the car for another 1-2 years, until the PIP2 is out.
Is this something to be concerned about? The strut is not leaking, and the suspension seems otherwise fine.
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I have a 2007 ford f150 FX2 5.4 with 3.55 limited slip rear end. It has 68,000 miles and would like to change the rear differential oil. I have read and I know the oil it requires is 75w-140 plus the friction modifier. I would like to use mobile one. But was reading and the mobile one sites states that is already has friction modifiers. Is that ok to use on my truck? Using mobile one and not adding the extra modifiers?
Also some other brands say they have friction modifiers as well. Should I use mobile one and add extra friction modifier or just go with what it has already?
Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-140 LS contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid.
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Every so often my rear cargo door handle is impossible to open. I can hear the lock mechanism lock/unlock but the handle won't compress to open the door. I had a mechanic get in it the other day by removing the inside panel. He states I need a new cable assembly. I have ordered one using our discount from Sewell. I have since come across a TSB about the actuator being an issue. I'm assuming my mechanic would know the difference. He said the cable is stretched and it makes the handle travel too far to engage. I'll try the cable at $35 delivered before the whole mechanism for $250 delivered.
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So I just picked up this mk4 it had D2 coilovers I believe and I'm putting racelands but I'm having trouble actually fitting the strut to the beam it doesn't want to go in because it's too small? So how would I open it up ?
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I have a 2004 Prius, the Red triangle came on intermittently and went off so I changed the 12V battery last night, after changing it the red warning light went off and everything seemed okay. Today while driving, the warning light came back on. I checked the battery voltage via diagnostic mode on the cars computer and the specs are what they should be. I noticed the following error codes in the computer:
01-D5, Sub-code: 190-30-8
01-DC, Sub-code: 190-B7-8
01-DC, Sub-code: 1C6-4D-F
Not sure if these are what is causing the problem.
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I have a rear rattle that I cant figure out had the wheel off and levered and pounded on links bushings etc. How can I access the top strut mounts to check them? Nothing found on youtube. Original struts on rear show no leaks or broken spring. Bouncing car does nothing neither does grabbing the tire at 12 and 6 or 3 and 9 position.
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What is the part number for the rear hatch strut for the new passat wagons? i need the part # for the ones that has the remote hatch closing. I want to put those struts on my mk5....
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I have a 99' GTP with 199,000 miles. I drive the very bumpy roads of Chicago. Recently when I go over any small bump, large bump, or when I am going fast and break I get a knocking sound mostly out of the right rear wheel, a quieter knocking out of the left rear wheel. It just sounds like a dry knocking when you go over any little bump or inperfection in the road. I am assuming that it is the struts. I don't know if i can just replace the shock part for $50 something or if my problem needs to be solved by replacing the whole strut assembly which includes preassembled strut, coil spring, strut mount and strut bearing?
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Any good video/instructions/tips on replacing the front and rear struts on a 1998 Toyota Celica?
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I have a broken rear strut on my 2009 LS 460 with 27000 miles. First noticed it about 25000 but dealer said it was only the cold weather and all was fine. I had a mechanic friend ride with me and he said I had a broken part in the rear suspension. Back to the dealer and this time they test drove it and diagnosed the broken rear strut. The tech told me that they had recently seen several LS 460's with the same problem. The broken strut causes handling problems and I am reluctant to drive at highway speeds.
The dealer (and all the other dealers I called) said that there are no parts available for the repair and one told me that the last strut had to be brought from Japan.
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