Prius (2004-09) :: Car Started Sputtering And Would Not Accelerate
Sep 18, 2012
2005 prius battery is not charging . Then check engine light /problem light came on . The vehicle started sputtering and would not accelerate over 25 mph.
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Today, we got a flat tire, so went to put spare on. The jack bent when we jacket it up..so had to borrow jack from neighbor. Once we got the spare on, it made a funny noise..on the way home, it wouldn't drive over 22 MPH, and once we replaced the original tire (got a new one/fixed), the car started to accelerate and brake itself!! It was definitely not normal. And there was no resistance to the pedal or floor mat interference.
I believe it was a computer problem? Anyways, when you hit the brake (cause it was going so fast) you could hear the engine strain as it groaned to a stop. Got the car home and in the garage for the night..That was work in itself, not driving it through the wall! Arranged to get the Prius towed to Toyota in the morning..see what they can do. It's intermittent when it does this, and very weird.
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I got a problem this morning my car was juddering when I tried to accelerate my Toyota Prius 2004. When it's over 40MPH the car runs smoothly. After few hours it increased and now its jerking and juddering big time. Also when my car is moving the "Traction Control light" flashed even on dry tar roads. When I try to run from the battery the car runs smoothly at any speed. Also on neutral, the car idles fine and no juddering. Since few months I felt like the clutch plates are slipping and engine revs high than normal only when it's running on gas. Seems to be okay on battery.
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I recently bought a 06 GX470 w/ 70k miles and noticed vibrations/sputtering when i accelerate during a turn. For example when you back out of a parking space, turn your wheels all the way and go. It happens when i turn right and left.
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2006 F150 FX4 5.4L, 118k miles... At highway speeds (45-50) and (55-60) as I am slightly accelerating it feels like the transmission or maybe ignition system is skipping a beat. Kind of feels like a small bump. I replaced spark plugs with motocraft about 35K miles ago and recently all transmission fluid via cooler line. Had some concerns about system flush so I just drained and refilled entire system via cooler lines. I have read that it could be my COP's ...
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What's the deal with making fuel filters difficult to replace? My engine has started sputtering (cutting in and out) and I began to wonder if it was the fuel filter. So, I investigated how to change it. Apparently it's part of the fuel pump and located in the fuel tank -- good grief.
A filter is there to catch stuff, and if it catches stuff it can get clogged, if it gets clogged it has to be replaced. It appears they put in the filter to catch stuff but assumed it never would.
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I Purchased a used 2005 . Everything was great all weekend long, but this morning, the car started shaking as I was driving it down the road. I drove my 55 mile commute, parked and took my son in to preschool. The shaking started when I left the school. As I was driving (around 45 mph, accelerating to 55 on flat road), the car had some definite shaking like a sputtering shake, but there was no sputtering noise.
No engine lights are on. Could this be a balancing issue rather than an engine issue? Or possibly a joint? Do these cars even have a flex joint?
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My dad has a 04 f350 6.0 and on his way back from a trip he filled up and drove 60 miles and it started smoking white smoke, after he let it sit a while he added fuel injector cleaner thinking it might have been somewhat bad fuel. Drove it 20 more miles and it it changed to black smoke and started sputtering like it was missing. Blowing a lot of smoke. Took it to ford dealer and they checked for codes and it said the #8 injector was bad and needed replaced. My question is would the injector going bad cause all the smoke and missing?
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Yesterday while driving to work I noticed my car sputtering when I began to accelerate and then the CEL came on. Well it did it some more yesterday afternoon but after sitting for about 7 hours while I was at work I drove it home last night without any issue. Then this morning drove around running errands and not one sign of sputter at all.
Stopped by the Kia dealership and they read the code which I believe was 306 and they said it was showing the number 6 cylinder misfiring/spark plug/wire problem. They said it could be a bad plug or wire or coil but wouldn't know till they looked at it which they will in about a week. But still driving and no signs of any sputter. What might have caused the temp sputter and code and how do I reset the CEL to see if the code goes off again?
Car: 2002 Kia Sedona Milage: 147,000Eng: 6 cylinder
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My van (Mazda MPV 2005) has been sputtering while driving for a while. Now I am dying at redlights when trying to accelerate after I have driven longer than a quick trip. I have had 4 mechanics work on my van and all of them, in the end, shrug their shoulders and tell me that they don't know what the problem is.
The first thing (seemed unrelated at the time) was a PCV hose replaced along with 2 coils.
A few months later the engine light came on (now it stays on) and the code reads P2179 (Fuel system too lean at off idle [left bank]) So then, the Idle Air Control Valve was replaced. I had the third mechanic replace the Air Mass Meter Boot and 2 days later the problem came back. He checked the MAF sensor which was good and he gave it back and told me he didn't know what it could be. Lastly, I took it to a dealership and they thought it was the Lower Intake Manifold Gasket, which got replaced. They also checked the O2 sensor, it is good. Within a couple of days I noticed the problem was still there. I also had a friend who is a mechanic pull out the fuel pump and it was in working order.
To top it all off, I now hear an odd "boing boing boing" coming from underneath my van when I have driven the van for a while and park.
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I have a 2001 Mercury Cougar 2.5l v6 with 142,000 miles. If I'm in idle, you can feel it discordantly kind of jumping. Guessing it's coming from the engine. When I accelerate, normally from 35-45 mph the engine sputters and is very jerky but then accelerates as normal. I am going through gas more than before. I've replaced the spark plugs and wires and it hasn't fixed.
It runs worse when my AC is on, guessing because it's more stress on the engine. don't know if it's relevant but I have a signal on my dashboard that shows how many miles I have left to drive with the amount of gas I currently have - and it's become way off, is totally inaccurate now. I also know I need an oil change.
Don't know a whole lot about cars, but I can't afford to have my car become out of commission. What the problem would be? The last mechanic I saw said it needs a tune up, but it was expensive so I've been trying things myself first.
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My husband bought this car 12 days ago. Had NTB check it out and they said we were good to go.
This afternoon, out of nowhere the car started getting usually hot, even though is was almost freezing outside. (Pic of temp below)
I pulled over and let the car idle for about 10 minutes. It cooled down by an amount so small its not even worth noting. I decided to try to make it home. As I drove it started to drop in temp... The car started sputtering as I slowed down at a red light. It started to shake. Then it cut off. I think I made this worse because I keep stepping on the gas hoping to get it back on. It did but it shook worse and anything close to 20 mph made it shut off again. It did this a total of 4 times before I made it home. Each time I stepped on the gas repeatedly to get it going again.
Once home I popped the hood and the pictures below are what I saw. Its in what I believe to be the radiator overflow. I checked the oil, and I do not see it there. I got down on the ground and looked for other leaks but all I see is the gunky stuff. The consistency is light very watery caramel. There was like smoke coming from the engine and it looks wet (included below).
Called my local repair shop and they are quoting me 3 grand. They said I need to replace the engine. My husband can't get to the car for another week and it is our only vehicle.
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Okay so I haven't driven my car in a couple of days, and when I started it today it started sputtering and shaking like it wasn't getting gas. I let it do this for about ten seconds to see if it would set a check engine light but it didn't. I shut off the car and restarted it, then it ran perfect.
I have had this happen to other cars if I let off the key too fast, but I don't think I did that today, I turned the key the normal amount of time. It only has 20k miles on it.
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I have an Hyundai Accent Petrol 1.6L ABS.
While driving the other day suddenly the car started sputtering or jerking while on low rpm and after changing gears
the exhaust is also making sputtering sounds when on idle.
when I press the accelerator the sputters/jerks and then picks up rpm. the performance of the car does not seem to be affected but petrol mileage has fallen.
when I accelerate slowly then the sputtering/jerking is reduced and sometimes not present much. There is also a deep and heavy sound of the engine running heard inside the car (which has been present before the timing belt change)
I took the car to the workshop and attached the OBD.
the codes P0340 P0112 were present. we now erased the codes and the mechanic checked the sensor wire plugs for the cam sensor and air sensor saying it looks fine. on attaching the OBD again the codes were not present. However the sputtering/jerking continues. (the fuel pump and filter were also checked to be ok)
My Timing belt has been changed approximately a month back. My car does not run much (Approx 40kms a day)
My questions are
1. can a bad timing of the timing belt have anything to do with this and thus giving these codes?
2. Can there be something wrong with the exhaust due to which this problem is taking place?
3. what could be possibly wrong with the car?
4. Can this result in any damage to the engine?
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I have a 92 Celica ST 1.6L 5 speed with 175,000 miles on it. When should I consider getting the timing belt changed?
Also, several months ago the engine started acting up while I was on a long road trip, suddenly anytime I tried to accelerate the engine started sputtering / acting like is misfiring.. It got progressively worse during the trip, so I pulled over and to my surprise there was a significant amount of oil in one of the spark plug 'wells'. After soaking the oil up with a rag and cleaning the spark plug cable/connector the problem has only occurred one time since, and not nearly as much oil was present. It sound like I just need new spark plug cables.
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I have a 2003 Golf VR6. Last weekend the car started sputtering and then died. I haven't been able to get it restarted since. I have already replaced the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump. Since I replaced the fuel pump it will prime when I open the door or when I insert the key. When I go to start it it will only stay running for 5-10 seconds then acts like its running out of fuel and dies. EVERY. SINGLE. TIME.
Its not throwing any codes other than a couple 02 sensor codes telling me its running lean. What to do at this point. I was told that vws have a secondary fuel pump relay under the passenger rear seat that sometimes when it goes bad it will turn on the fuel pump to prime it, but wont kick on when its supposed to stay on. I cant find anything on the interweb about it. The shop I took it to that diagnosed the fuel pump said it wasn't throwing any codes when they scanned it.
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I was sitting in a drive through line, and my 2002 Ford F-150 started spitting, sputtering and then died. I restarted it several times, not getting anything but the spitting and sputtering again and then nothing else. I was told by a friend it HAD to be the fuel pump, now I am being told it HAS to be the ignition coil. My friend is a shade-tree mechanic and now I am not certain I trust his judgement.
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Ii had drove my car about 20 miles and after i had got inside and turned it on to drive it again CEL started flashing and car was sputtering lost power and felt like it didn't want to move so I had taken it to a VW specialist and he diagnosed it and told me its my coil pack and its got a bit water inside it and I would need to replace it and he said he would charge me $300 to replace ...
So I figured if its just the coil pack I could most likely do it myself and could this be from the coil pack? and why would there be water in my spark plug? Should I replace all coil or just the one that's bad.
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This morning I was going leave, turned the key, car started up fine but had a very bad jerky/sputtery idle, like it was cutting in and out. Gas light was on and car parked uphill so first thought..hm must not be getting enough gas to start up. bf gets some gas in a jerrycan and empties it into the tank. Gas meter goes up, light goes off. Thought I was set to go so try to start er up again, nothing..car does turn over but its not getting any spark now. didn't have time to check much this morning as my bf was in a hurry for work so I just left it at his house for the day. I know coil packs and/or spark plugs could be the main thing and we're going to check them later after we're both done work..is there anything else I should check for? The engine light is on but we checked it with the code reader, its just the catalyst emissions stuff, no misfires or anything. (I drive a 2000 v6 4motion, tiptronic & car was parked there since saturday night)...
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Today my engine started making loud sputtering sounds, I checked the oil and it was completely gone based on the dipstick. I was shocked since I had an oil change not so long ago. My current millage is 103,500 i assume now at such a millage that oil consumption is very high. I poured some 5-20 synthetic oil in, but my engine continues to make sputtering sounds however, they are less audible now. Is it possible my engine is damaged?
Here's a recording of the engine sounds up close : [URL] .....
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93 explorer 215000 miles on it runs like a champ 99.9% of the time. I am on my way home today on the highway going 75mph when all of sudden it started slowing down and sputtering. I quickly pulled over and as I did the car shut off. When I was pumping the pedal nothing would happen. I initially thought fuel pump is dead as I dont know if its been replaced. 45 minutes later on the side of the highway after multiple times trying to start, it does and I cruise the next 20 miles home no problems at all????
Got home started it a few times, NO PROBLEMS!
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