Prius (2004-09) :: Car Does Not Stay In Drive
May 16, 2010
We know that a problem can arise in shifting the car into D if the brake is not depressed enough, or the sensor monitoring brake pressure is malfunctioning.
A similar -- but different -- symptom of having trouble shifting gears occurs when the gear shift lever is not working. Patrick Wong reported this problem, and noted that the lever stayed in the wrong place.
My car had a gear shift problem today, and I wonder if I am seeing something new. I started the car, and shifted into D. I saw on the display that the D was selected, but when I took my foot off the brake the display shifted back into N, and pressing the fuel pedal had no effect. If I remember correctly, the ICE did not rev. The problem resolved itself after a couple of tries shifting into D. My last attempt that worked happened when I moved the lever to D and held it there a few seconds.
Later that same drive, I drove in reverse a bit, and then was unable to shift into D and stay there. The gear shifted back into N on the display after I selected D. I am uncertain if the shift back happened when I lifted my foot from the brake, or when I pressed on the fuel pedal, but I think the latter. I'm pretty sure the car was functionally really in N, because it rolled backwards on the incline I was on when I took my foot off the brake. My earlier success by holding the gear shift lever a few seconds did not work, but the problem resolved itself by powering down and restarting the car. Parenthetically, since searching for answers tonight on the forum, I now know from John1701 that I can 'soft' reset the gear shift software by holding down the PARK button for a few seconds.
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My wife's 2004 GX 470 was not going into low gear from 2nd, so of course I used some pressure and i heard something break inside the gear shifter (sounded plastic), now the shifter won't stay in 4th from drive and will shift out of park even when the car is off. Could this be the shift lock control? I know the linkage was probably the fault initially when not going into L from 2nd gear, but now I have this issue to deal with.
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The lid on my "upper" glove box will not stay up. How to fix this? I cannot figure how to get to the mechanism.
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I have a 2005 Prius and the car will not stay in D but starts up fine in zero degree weatther.
I can only go forward in the B mode until the car warms up.
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Purchased an 04 Prius with 140k miles and bad HV battery. Used torque app and pulled original codes for bad HV battery. I was able to drive/limp the car home for tear down and replacement. After installing a used HV battery that had 80k from and 08 car. It will start but shutdown after a few seconds. I was able to put it in to drive and move it but it still dies. Energy display shows no battery status and now I get the connect to air conditioner communication warning. The battery's are reading 15.2 volts each from the torque app these are read in pairs so seeing 14 readings all within .1v of each other. I am not getting any codes from the computer.
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So my understanding is that the Gen II does not have a warning light that you have left your headlights on because they lights have an auto off after 30 seconds? Well one night in a rush I left my lights on for about an hour (they did not turn off) and I came out to a dead battery. I guess my question is: Do I have a warning beep that is broke? Or is my auto off feature broke?
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2008 prius won't stay in gear, goes to neutral when hot...
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I messed up a couple weeks ago and left the car battery running while waiting for someone. I noticed after doing that, that whenever i had the car is standby mode the red triangle would come up and stay there. Today i got into my car and when i tried turning on the car it died and only had a check engine light come on. I read online that it was the battery so i got the car jump started.
We did this with one of those jump starter boxes (not another car) and now the car is running fine. I read that jump starting a prius could cause damage to it and checked the battery levels. When i pushed the power button once the 12v level was at 12.4. When i pressed it twice the level was at 12.1 and when the car is on the level is at 13.9. My 2004 prius is now at 161k miles. Am I fine using the car as it is? or should i change the 12v, or check if the HV is alright?
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I bought my Prius 2 days ago and I am now on a long car trip. I think I understand how to drive the car, but I was fighting to get the car to stay around 50mpg - even on flat terrain it wanted to be down around 35. I tried using cruise control, I tried manual. Going up hill I'd get 19-28... almost always coasting to 99.9 down hill (though a couple times it would be low then too) but the flat time is what really killed me.
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Today I took my 2006 Toyota Prius with 167,000 miles out to drive my dog to the vet. I turned the car on and deactivated the parking break and noticed the light stayed on, then I noticed the VSC and ABS lights stayed on as well.
My car was parked backwards on a driveway incline for about 14 hours. My 12v battery is old, not sure what shape it is in. The hybrid battery was replaced 2 years ago. I have been reading up and i guess it could be a sensor, skid sensor, 12v battery, or some sort of pump. Also, my parking break has felt a little weak as of late.
The car still drives, not sure if it drives funny or psychologically I think it does.
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91 F-150 4x4 with AOD. OD,D,1st gear. The truck will idle fine, but when I put it into gear it seems like it is locked in in either drive or reverse. Its hard to stop at lights or stop signs and boggs the engine down and has no low end power. When in neutral it is fine. I have replaced the torque converter with a new one, no change. I replaced the valve body with a constant pressure body as well and still no change. Is there anything else that could keep the thing locked up? The smaller inside overdrive shaft looked good and slid in and out easily. Is there any kind of solenoid in the AOD that would cause this or if vacuum has any role in this problem...
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I have a 2008 Prius with 106,000+ miles on it. It was running fine till 2 days ago, I didn't start it yesterday and today when i went to start it, I get the Hybrid System Malfunction light, along with check engine, the red triangle and TPMS light. The gas engine tries to start up, then 1 second later makes a grinding noise and turns off.
I am in Toronto and its cold, but not THAT cold yet. So I am doubtful its temperature related. I checked the fluids and they all seem to be sufficient (engine oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid). I didn't notice any leaks under the vehicle either.
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2011, 2.0T, with 58,000 miles, and everything's perfect, nothing but synthetic oil changes and premium fuel. But, Over the last month, I get a new vibration when I come to a complete stop, and stay in Drive. Once I shift to Neutral, it naturally goes away, and it shifts normally. I've never done anything to the Tranny.
The car has always been like this but this new vibration is bad, I can feel the pulsing in the brake pedal and you can hear it in the engine. What's making me take it to the Dealer is when my wife drove it, she said she noticed it, I said it must be bad.
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My Prius has been jolting when the ICE is on and going from drive to park. It almost seems like the ICE is trying to turn off but does not and it jolts the car as a result.
Is this normal? It also jolts sometimes when the ICE is on and when going from park to drive. The ICE remains on although it almost "jumps" or "jolts." I have not noticed it before, and it only happened intermittently at first, although now it does it most of the time. It does not really have a noise associated although it is mostly a "jump" by the car.
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I wonder what's the difference between Stealth (no arrow on display at all) and Neutral Gear? The reason I ask is, Neutral Gear is much easier to maintain than Stealth.
Also, when I break moderately hard, it seems like the CVT gear is put to low, so for every yard I travel, more rotation on charging motor. Since Toyota did a great job on transition between regeneration and brake pads, I can't tell when brake pads start to work. Any indications?
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My wife and I just completed a 1k-mile trip yesterday, and during our 65-70 mph drive we heard a frightening banging on our roof. Both of us thought someone had dropped large stones from an overpass. There were maybe 5 bangs, then a pause for a minute, and another 3 bangs. All were loud enough that we feared something would come through the roof.
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Ok first off I am a used car dealer and have sold 20 plus gen IIs and never had to replace the main Hybrid battery pack... until this one! after i replaced it with a used one every thing seemed to be fine, I drove the car for a while the check engine light went off(the reason we knew the battery pack was bad) and after a few miles of driving the red triangle light went off.. yea! I think im done so we put all the carpet and rear seats back in and i get in it to start it and put it on the lot and it will not go into gear or start. all the dash lights come on and will go into neutral when i push the brake but just will not go into drive or neutral.
Here are some things we already tried:
1. put the original battery back in the car- no change
2. put our jump box to the small battery-no change
3. checked the brake lights they are coming on when i push the brake
4. put the scanner on the obdII- no codes
The car is an 06 with 200k miles in very good shape. Could it be in the shifter and not related to the battery change out?
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I have a 2005 Prius. 3 weeks ago my dash lit up with warning lights so I took it to the dealer. They ran a diag and came up with
P3000/123
P0A80/C2311
"Vehicle has bad #4 battery block. Neesd HV Battery pack and HV ECU" I had just hit 150,900 miles.
Given the cost I decided to fix it myself. After tracking down some cells and getting a HV ECU from a local junk yard I pulled out the hv battery broke it down, tested the two cells in the #4 block and replaced the low voltage cell. I then replaced the HV ECU. I put everything back together and everything started up fine and ran great.
Things work well for 2 weeks then yesterday as I'm pulling into my driveway the main error indicator (the big red triangle containing a !) lit up. Needless to say I was disappointing. I turned the car off and then turned it back on. At this point most all of the error indicators were lit (see attached image). I get a new error indicator on the multi-information display (the red car with the ! in it, according to the manual I'l supposed to take it the the dealer immediately) The car started but the engine does not start. The car will not go into drive or reverse, just neutral.
I thought I may not be pressing the brake correctly so I spent some time making sure I was depressing the brake pedal fully when starting up. No change. I checked that the break lights are working when I press the pedal and they are working correctly. I checked the brake fluid reservoir and it is filled to the correct levels.
A friend bought a innova OBD2 scan tool (his kid's cars break a lot) I borrowed it and hooked it up to my car. No error codes detected was what it told me. I was a bit perplexed. I switched to the Toyota enhanced DTC and then Readiness DTC and finally found some codes:
P0300
P0171
P0172
P000A
I found what looks to be the 2004 service manual online in an open directory : [URL] ...... While I don't find P000A I do see the other 3.
P0300 (05–157)
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
Open or short in engine wire harness
Connector connection
Vacuum hose connection
Ignition system
Injector
Fuel pressure
Mass air flow meter
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Compression pressure
Valve clearance
Valve timing
PCV hose connection
PCV hose
ECM
P0171 (05–143)
System Too Lean (Bank 1)
Air induction system
Injector has blockage
Mass air flow meter
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Fuel pressure
Gas leakage in exhaust system
Open or short in A/F sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) circuit
A/F sensor (bank 1 sensor 1)
A/F sensor heater (bank 1 sensor 1)
EFI M relay (integration relay)
PCV valve and hose
PCV hose connection
ECM
P0172 (05–143)
System Too Rich (Bank 1)
Injector has leakage or blockage
Mass air flow meter
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Ignition system
Fuel pressure
Gas leakage in exhaust system
Open or short in A/F sensor (bank 1 sensor 1) circuit
A/F sensor (bank 1 sensor 1)
A/F sensor heater (bank 1 sensor 1)
EFI M relay (integration relay)
ECM
I was hoping for something a bit less vague. So that's where I am right now. I have the indicator lights as seen in the attached image. The car powers up but the engine does not start. The car will not go into drive or reverse. I don't know the difference between the standard DTC and the readiness DTC.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Prius with 23k mileage. Whenever I drive over 30mph, I get a noise that comes from the front of the car. The noise gets louder as I drive faster. I just got the tires replaced, and that did not resolve the issue. I want to know what the problem is? Is it normal for Prius's to make this noise?
I just went to my mechanic and he told me that its the front wheel bearings. Can that possibly be the problem with my car.
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So my wife says she hit a curb last nite on her way to work, now this morning the car lost power several dash lights are on and the lcd display says problem on start up, and has a orange icon at the top left. It will only shift between park and neutral. The light on the power button wont turn green either. Currently I'm waiting on a tow truck.
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My fiancee has a 2005 base model and is out shopping today. She just called me and said that she is stuck in a parking lot.
She told me on the way off the highway today the "big and little" triangles came on, but the car drove fine. When she got back to her car to leave, the car would turn on presumably, but all the warning lights were on. She then said that the car would not go into drive and only into neutral.
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