Prius (2004-09) :: Car Died When Stopped At An Intersection
Aug 25, 2015
My wife was driving her 2008 Gen II Prius and stopped at an intersection. The car died. She had it towed back home, and I have been able to do all of the following:
1) Checked 12v battery voltage. Battery was bad - approx. 10.4 volts.
2) Switched battery with my other Prius (checked voltage first, and that battery was 12.4v and other Prius starts fine).
Car won't start.
3) Pressed brake "very hard" and pushed Start button. --- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
4) Checked voltage of battery again with digital volt meter -- 12.4v
5) Checked headlights -- Very bright.
6) Checked dome light -- Very bright.
7) Checked door locks -- Locks & unlocks rapidly.
8) Checked emergency flashers -- All lights blink/flash brightly.
9) Made sure all features listed above are off, pressed brake pedal, pushed Start button again -- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
10 Checked voltage of battery again -- 12.4v
11) Tried other key FOB -- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
12) Replaced battery on key FOB -- Car won't start. No lights on dashboard.
13) Pushed Start button without depressing brake (to try to initiate accessory mode) -- No accessory mode. No lights on dashboard.
14) Checked voltage of battery again -- 12.4v
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I recently inherited this car from a relative, I had it and two other vehicles she owned towed to my house about a week ago. The Sonata has under 1000 miles on it and I found a stack of repair orders from the dealer where she complained that the car wouldn't move or where it had been towed after getting stuck at an intersection while driving.
What is happening is that when I get in the car, with the engine cold, it starts up and drives fine. Then with no pattern or warning, when I stop at an intersection, the transmission acts as if its in neutral. It won't go into any gear, regardless of where I put the shifter. Its got the 2.4L GDI motor. and an automatic trans.
I had to tow it 5 times now. I took it to the local dealer and they found nothing wrong, no codes, and couldn't reproduce the problem. Yet when I went to pic it up, it did it a block from the dealer, I had to push the car to the shoulder at the light. I walked to the dealer, they had a tech come out to the car and by the time he got there the problem was gone. I took it home, and when I got home, I shut it off, then tried starting it and moving it again and nothing, it wouldn't move at all, no forward, no reverse. I find that if I cycle the key, on and off, sometimes the issue will go away instantly. I also never does it cold, only after driving it a bit. It has never done anything wrong while driving at speed, only when coming to a stop and trying to move again.
When it happens, the shifter moves fine, the engine revs and there are no warning lights on the dash, it just acts like its in neutral regardless of what gear the shifter is in. It doesn't creep or pull at all, there's no movement at all when it acts up and I have to drive it to get it to do it, it can idle in the driveway all day and won't do it till I take it down the road and come to a stop and try to start moving again.
Out of frustration I bought a scan tool to see what's up but as long as the scan tool is plugged in, it doesn't act up. I've been driving it for two days without it doing it. Thinking it may be just coincidence, I unplugged the scan tool, took a ride and it did it at the first intersection, I had to shut the car off, plug in the scanner to get the car back home. I called the dealer and was told that this was impossible.
I'm starting to feel like I'm on my own with this one since the dealer seems to not be able to find the issue. I am really having a hard time believing that the dealer can't make it act up but if they're plugging a scan tool in, and driving it, maybe that's why?
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My '05 Dodge Neon's engine just quit when I was stopped at an intersection. All the lights, etc worked. When I turned the key the engine would sound like it started for a brief moment, but it always died a second later and didn't respond to pressure on the gas pedal. I took it to a shop that replaced the alternator, throttle sensor, and "idle air control mtr". A few days later, the car died the exact same way when I was driving down the road. I took it to a second mechanic who looked it over the next day, and it was running. He couldn't find the issue, and it didn't die when he drove it. I don't know if these symptoms are related, but a few minutes before it broke down the first time it jerked and the gauges went crazy. I had a check engine light for "not reading fuel level" or something like that after the first repair but before the second break down, which my first mechanic dismissed as not really important when I asked him about it. My lights also flicker a lot. Battery was replaced last year.
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2002 Santa Fe has been misfiring for about a month...yesterday it got worse...When it's running hot and stopped at intersection it lurches forward.. It stalled when backing up after being parked. Mechanic did diagnostic test and it showed zero...He changed 2 wires to spark plugs..Spark plugs have only 20,000 miles and SUV has 68,000 miles.
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I have a 2002 Prius and several times in the past few days my car has died on me when I accelerated from a stopped position. Each time I start up the car, put it in reverse and back out the parking spot with no problem. But as soon as I put the car in Drive and slightly accelerate the car will slightly sputter (like a misfire) and the motor shuts off but I think the electric motor still runs.
The hybrid warning lights come on and after I turn the ignition on and off two times it will start back up and run fine. Once it happened while sitting at a traffic light. But most of the time it happens after shifting from R to D.
Today I sprayed some Throttle cleaner on the Throttle and I flooded the carburetor but after several attempts got the car running again. Drove it some hours later and went from R to D it worked fine. Drove 10 minutes away and let the car sit for around 15 minutes. Put it in R and to D and bam it shut down again.
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So it looks like the battery in my Key Fob has died. I've had some trouble replacing it, so for the past week or so I've been forced to use the physical key every single time. It's getting pretty annoying now, so I've decided to figure this out once and for all. From what I gather, the replacement should be battery number 2032.
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I've got a 2006 Prius that was a model car--no problems at all--until it turned 4 years and 1 week old in April 2010. Then my aux battery died on 22 April, with just 31,583 miles on the car, and was replaced at Downtown Toyota in Oakland, CA. My dashboard lighted up after hours, and since my regular mechanic (Art's Automotive) was already closed for the evening, I had it towed to downtown Toyota. No huge deal, except for the cost of the battery/labor. The codes were: C2318, b1421, b1200, b1207, and b1271.
4 weeks later, on 22 May, I pulled into my driveway, and 4 lights came on: the MIL, the VSC, the yellow ! inside the circle, and the Hybrid System Failure icon on the MFD.
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I own a 2008 Prius with 87k on it. The factory hybrid warranty was good through 11/15 and on 1/22/16 the dash lit up along with the MFD screen. After research I thought it was an inverter pump. I got the call from Toyota that it was throwing a P80 code meaning it is the hybrid battery. The dealership told me that it would run 3200.00 for a new replacement. I called the service manager and had him send in a goodwill exception since we service our 7 other toyotas with them.
Toyota corporate responded they would cover the battery under goodwill but I would have to pay the labor cost of 450.00. I spoke to the service manger and the dealership is covering half of that which I'm only liable for 225.00. I'm not out 3200.00 but after doing more research the typical battery last 60-80k. Some are luckier to get over 150k. For those Prius owners approaching those miles beware that you might need a battery replacement. This will be the last hybrid I will ever own.
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My 2004 gen II died on the road last week. I wanted to have information, on what is apparently a rare problem.
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Got the triangle of death after letting the car set during my 2 week vacation. P0A80 and Battery block is 14.17V all the rest above 15.35. That's a lot of money to repair a car. Not sure if I want to cut my losses and move on or replace it and drive as long as I can.
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Went out to start my 2007 at 5:10am and it was as dead as a doornail. (Well, almost...I pushed the button for the cabin light and it barely lit). I panicked. Pulled out the manual and figured out that the 12v was dead. Woke up DH (who was not happy) and then we followed the instructions for the jump - which worked. (Hooray!) Didn't quite understand the "hold the pedal lightly for 2000 rpm before starting the car when there was no engine running " part...but I did sit there with my foot on the pedal pressing it down a bit. (Yes, I follow directions)
The car has about 60k miles. I drive 35 miles each way to work Monday through Friday. Weekends I only drive it around town a few miles. It may sit one of those days. I do keep the headlights on all of the time, in fact I have never turned them off. I thought that once I powered it off, everything was off? (Except that little security thing). The car is the basic model.
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So i am writing for my Aunt and her 2005 prius. She had it in for a tune up drove it home and it died. Started up again and was fine after about ten minutes. Now the wierd part. She brought it in to see what happened etc all is fine and she starts to drive home and the odometer is reading roughly 30,000 miles less then when she brought it in...
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History: 2005 Prius has 130,000 miles and was rear ended in mid November (less than 2 months ago) on drivers side rear.
Yesterday my husband was driving at 65 MPH when all the lights on the dash all lit up for a second before the entire car died. The car was DEAD, wouldn't do anything except the lights worked (I'm assuming cause it's the starter battery). Ran hazards for approx an hour waiting on tow truck but the rear left light only flashed approx 1 in 10 times compared with the rear right light. Car had a terrible burned smell.
1.5 hours later the tow truck shows up and says "your car smells terrible". We towed it to Toyota Dealership.
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Last night during the East Coast's snow storm, I left my 2004 Prius warming for 10 minutes in park. I have a newborn and wanted the car warm for her. When I got back outside to leave, the Prius had died. The check engine light was on, but that was on before because I need to get the oil changed.
I went to jump start it, but when I opened the hood, I could hear that the engine seemed to still be running - it sounded like the belts were still going. So I was nervous to jump start it with the engine still seemingly on. I waited 30 minutes and that noise stopped.
When I tried to jump start it, I couldn't get the fuse box cover off after an hour of trying at 10PM, in the snow and rain. So I gave up and will try again later today.
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My master warnIng lIght came on In my car.I took my car into Hooman Toyota in Long Beach, California. They did a diagnostic test and performed their MPI WORLD CLASS INSPECTION. While I was getting it tested they said the invert water pump was under recall. No biggie. Nothing was found in the diagnostic and the recall was fixed.
Two days later I took my car to Palms Springs. While I was driving out there the master warning light came on. I started to lose power but it seemed like the computer would reset and it would be ok for about 15 minutes. I even lost power in the engine. I finally made it out there and figured it just needed to rest. 6 hours later I took off for home. 10 minutes into it the lights on the dashboard came on. The car lost all power and I was stranded off the freeway. My battery was down to 1 bar. I left it there overnight and had it towed to the nearest Toyota dealer. They said I need a new battery and that theirs bad gas. They wanted to replace the fuel tank. I replaced the battery.
The next day they said that wasn't it and was going to continue searching. I ended up towing it to my mechanic. He said there was no coolant and the headers are blown. He said I was better off getting a new engine. Let me take you back two days when that WORLD CLASS MPI INSPECTION was done. There was an 8 page report specifying what was passed on the inspection. The battery, coolant levels along with other fluids passed. Not to mention hoses and clamps and about 30 other things. I feel something was missed in that WORLD CLASS INSPECTION. I feel they are responsible for the car ending up the way it was.
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I replaced the front brake pads the same method as a traditional car. (Popped out caliper. Pushed piston in. Put new pads in). I did not pump the brakes after installation (forgot to do so).
I drove off to test drive. A block later as I approached a stop sign, I smelled something similar to burning brakes (this might have been some of the oil I spilled when I added oil just before I left). Went to the next stop sign 100 yards away and was able to stop. Made a slow left turn and MFD displayed a warning and ABS (and maybe other ones too) light came on. I pulled over. I don't remember if the car shut itself or if I turned it off.
Now, I can not get the car started. Had car towed home with wheel lift tow truck.
Tried the following:
- Press brake, push Start: Car appears to power up then shuts down immediately. Lights appear on dash, then go out. The squares around P,N,D,R,B are the last ones to go out.
- Press start to go into ACC mode: Radio and clock power up without problems. Pressing start again results in same symptom above.
- Tried to read code with ODBII scanner: all I get is "ERROR". Appears that it's not linking.
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I have had my '08 Prius for 3 years and have little to no problems with it. This morning I jumped in to go to work and the entire dash lit up and then faded out and died. The only lights still on is the check engine light, Airbag light and the little green light on the Park button. The worst part is now I can not completely shut it down. I am wondering if it is just a dead battery or if this is something bigger. If it is a dead battery I am baffled at how it could be. I have AAA coming to jump it and I hope that is all it is. Sound familiar?
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i started my '04 prius (~110k miles) this morning, went back into the house to grab a few things, & then I started hearing a loud rattling sound from the engine for a few seconds before the engine died.
The dash and MFD lite up with these symbols in the attached images.
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I recently purchased a 01 1.8t GTi with a blown timing belt. I got the car rebuilt, did all maintenance work like brakes , hub/bearings, bushings, oil and all the good stuff that goes into getting the car back up and running. I've finally started driving it and I'm having a weird issue.
Yesterday , I stopped at a red light and the car randomly died on me. Pushed it off the road and checked things out but I couldn't see if there was anything wrong but about 10 minutes later , I was able to restart the car and drive home. Now today , on my way home from work the car starts back firing and I lost all power and rolled to the side of the road where he car would just continue to crank. I was able to get it restarted but it cut out again a couple seconds after. I don't have my code scanner but I know I do have one lean code for something. Maybe cause I have a leak between turbo and dp. I don't have access to vagcom unfortunately..
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Prius 2004 with 86K miles. My brake led light on the driver side stopped working completely the other day. For some time now (6 months) i knew the top led of the brake light was not working, but yesterday I discovered that the whole led is failing. tail and parking light on the same assembly are working fine. I pulled off the plastic door inside the trunk and I checked connections for faulty ones but everything was tight in its place. Is there anything else I can do before preparing to go to the "butcher" dealer?
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Right Front Seat Stopped Working. It was about 2 months after I got the car or 2 weeks after I had it hardwired for a Police Radar power source. I'm pretty sure it was working after the custom police radar power source. I haven't even used the power source since I'm still waiting for the radar to come. So, I don't think it was that or maybe yes.
I went to my dealer and it was there for about 2 days trying to figure out what went wrong. It turns out the 30 amp fuse blew up or died.
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