Prius (2004-09) :: CEL With P2601 Coolant Pump Error Code?
Nov 20, 2012
Got a check engine light with a P2601 error code this morning - Coolant Pump Control Circuit Range/Performance.
View 3 RepliesGot a check engine light with a P2601 error code this morning - Coolant Pump Control Circuit Range/Performance.
View 3 RepliesMy son drives our old 2005 Prius with over 300000 miles on it. He had a front end accident a few years ago, and, after body repair and a straightened frame, the car has been running pretty well, although the mpgs have been in the low 30s. This may be the result of his "lead foot." He recently saw the check engine light and the car shows the codes P2601 and P1116.
View 7 RepliesI had my hybrid water pump replaced (free, under recall) about a month ago. Now the check engine light comes on intermittently, and it's with error code 1121 (Coolant flow control valve sensor stuck). I've seen other people on this forum hypothesize that the work could cause this error (if not bled properly, leaving air in the system). But my dealer said the work had nothing to do with this error and I need to replace the control valve. How to suggest to my dealer that it could, in fact, be due to their work and that I think they should fix it for free?
View 15 RepliesI own a 2006 JDM prius with 323,000 km. The inverter coolant pump failed recently (got P0A93 code and no agitation in coolant reservoir). I ordered a replacement on eBay and am awaiting arrival. I may need to do some light driving in the in the interim and am thinking about installing a 10 inch fan in the space between the inverter/transmission and radiator to keep things cool. Is this wise or should I just let the car sit until the new pump gets here?
Also, I am burning oil...I usually have to top up 1 to 2 quarts in between changes. Is there anything I can do without tearing down the engine? A friend of mine suggested using Lucas oil stabilizer the next time I change oil...could this have any negative implications?
So got this P0A93 code when I was driving on the highway about 65mph, scared to me death when big yellow warning light came on so I returned home and turn the car back on after 30 mins the code and all the warning lights were gone I checked under the hood felt the pump everything was good. I just got done 90k maintance on the car from dealer. So my question is that could be computer error or it could be water pump malfunction? On warranty manual the warranty for inverter with converter covers under 100k so dealer should be able to cover the water pump if it's broken? I driven the car today again at normal temperature and full blast AC on, then again no engine check light on and warning light no message.
View 4 RepliesI picked up a 2003 that had a bad AUX battery and P3130 code. Just FYI, aside from the battery it drives fine. Kicks the Warning light after about 15 miles but since the battery was bad it kept getting reset. Replaced the battery with a nice optima conversion.
Took out the inverter coolant pump, tested the circuit (good), tested the pump (bad). Replaced with a new one from dealer. Set up the bleeder tubes and massaged the lines till the new pump stopped SCREAMING at me. Added probably 2 qts of TLLC total. Bleeder tubes never had enough pressure to push fluid back up to reservoir but got solid 2 inches of fluid with no bubbles. Topped of the coolant. Went for a drive around the block, made it halfway (about 28mph) before the light kicked in and the motor seemed to bog down. Limped back home and read the 3125 Code. Code reader does not give me sub codes.
2003 Prius 154K miles on ODO.
So I received the P1121 and took it to the dealer. They told me I also had a P3000. I called another dealer and they said the P3000 could be caused by the P1121 not giving it enough coolant. So I brought it back to the house, bought the valve listed in the forums, and I spent all day changing that + the coolant. I drained the coolant and between the reservoir and the radiator cap itself I refilled about 4 QT, and I saw that my inverter coolant was just below the low line, so I filled it up to the full line. Afterwards, I tried to get the coolant to flow, and it seems like I won't flow. The check engine light immediately came back on and the car said, "Problem." So I immediately shut it off and let it set for a few days. How do I get it so that the coolant starts flowing again. I haven't seen any of the levels move whatsoever on the radiator.
View 8 RepliesPrius 2009 inverter coolant pump failure 51,300 miles....
View 8 RepliesMy 2006 Prius with 120k miles has coolant seeping around the water pump. I called around to get quotes on replacement cost, but one place said the thermostat should be replaced at the same time, while the other said it shouldn't. (BTW, I will have the belt replaced at the same time).
View 8 RepliesMy car has been fine with no changes besides tires last week, its a 2006 Prius and yesterday I got lights on my dash, went to auto zone for a read out and got an HV error code. I was wondering what is the most affordable route for my car to get repaired. I don't notice any mpg differences and everything still charges and recharges as if the errors don't exist.
View 19 Replies2005, Gen 2 got check engine light. I've turned it off, will see if it reappears.
View 5 RepliesIts a 2009 Prius with about 75K miles on it. I have scangauge on the dash as well as mini-VCI. It is setting PO456 code time after time. I reset it, but it comes back in about 50 mils of driving. Its not the gas cap, I turn it until it clicks every time. Something is wrong with evaporative emissions system, which I wouldn't care about, except it might mask some other fault code that is more serious, as it keeps check eng. light on all the time.
View 7 RepliesWe seem to be getting reports of failed inverter coolant pumps here on just about a daily basis. I'm wondering if they're all just failing now or if this is something of a "backlog" of failures that started in Winter but are only really being detected now.
View 14 RepliesMy 2007 Prius with 162k miles had an Inverter Coolant Pump Failure Monday 6.5 hours from home when my wife was driving it home from a trip. Red Triangle, (!), vsc, and check engine light. She was able to make it about 20 minutes to a dealer where it was diagnosed. Luckily no further damage was done to vehicle. Yes, she should have stopped but continued on since car was driving OK.
View 7 RepliesMy 2006 prius has 102,000 miles and the coolant pump for the thermos is getting alarmingly noisy.
View 19 RepliesAfter a long day at work, I stepped out of my '06 Prius and was greeted by an obviously struggling CHRS pump. It sounded like it was having a hard time maintaining speed, and to my ears was screaming; better replace soon...
View 2 RepliesI was driving home the other day and my CEL came on... I checked the gas cap and waited a few days to see if it cleared. When it didn't clear I had the codes read and it came back with 3 instances of P0505.
View 2 RepliesIn the last four months, I have been getting intermittent error code P0011 on my 2008 prius. I notice that it comes usually when I am going up/down a major hill or going really fast.
View 2 RepliesInstalled Rebuilt Hybrid Battery AND New 12v Yesterday. Worked great until just now. Got the cool Red Triangle and VSC... hooked up to that Cool code machine and got the P0AAC (Hybrid Battery Pack Air Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit).
What is this exactly and what should I do? If it's a simple fix, I'm sure I can do it with my dad ... after all, I did take and reinstall the battery myself. Also, is it going to hurt my car if I drive on it with this issue?
Car is 06 and has 211K miles.
I have a 2005 Prius with almost 244,000 mile and about a week and a half ago the check engine light came on. I went to an Advanced Auto and had them read the code for me, which came back with a P0505 error code. I have read several things on web that this code is a Idle Air Controller related.
I also have read that this could be to a loose or bad PCV valve, an air leak in the vacuum lines, throttle motor shaft might be binding, or a failed engine ECM.
The car runs and idle just fine, no stalling or a rough idling. The only problem that is obvious is that when the car is warm and I come to a stop or put in park, the motor will not shut off.
Which one of these would cause this to happen? Or could this be due to a MAF sensor that needs cleaned or replaced?
Just picked up a 2005 with 146k and full Toyota service history, although seems a steering recall was not done. Will run it to the dealer today to check. I need to decide a.s.a.p. if I am keeping the car or not (I know the seller, he will take it back)
Anyway to cut a long story short, two questions.
1) Car had P3190 and P0420 when I got it. Seller reset, drove home and within 5 minutes on the road the CEL was back on. Checked the codes at home and see only a P0420. Much to worry about? Seems this might be big (Cat) or small (O2). Car getting great mileage - 60mpg at 60mph and it seems to be running great. Should I worry or forget about it? Note I am in Florida with no inspections.