I just took the car to the dealer, for a recurring Check Engine light, and after changing the gas cover 2 months ago, now they tell me that it needs to replace the Charcoal Canister pump . I have a 2008 Prius, bought used 18 months ago, with approx. 70k miles
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Camry that has had ongoing issues with the Charcoal Canister over the past 3 years. The first time we came across this issue the car threw codes that indicated the Charcoal Canister had to be replaced. Our mechanic said it had to be done and there were no after market parts for this canister. We paid the $800 for parts and labour and had it replaced. Then 13 months later the car began throwing codes again. I had the car looked at again I was told the Canister would need to be replaced... They felt it was likely caused from the intake filter housing cracking. Each time our car does this the codes can be cleared for a bit but the car takes forever to fill and slowly over time you can no longer fill the car as there is so much pressure. This time I bought a used part and replaced the canister. This has happened again..
So we have now replaced this filter 3 times in three years. Can I ask how this canister continues to get gummed up? We live on dusty roads in the country but none of my other Toyota's have had any issues with this. How these canisters are getting gummed up? Is there any way for me to change this Canister myself if I buy them used? I saw in a video on this forum where the user shows putting the car up on a hoist and lowering the exhaust to get to the canister. Do you have to have a hoist? I am wondering if I can achieve this with the car on a blocks? My original mechanic said the rear suspension needs to be taken apart to access the canister? Can I ask where the dust is being drawn from to clock this filter to begin with? I have also been told you can try blowing out the lines? How to attempt this?
The dealer tells me my batteries in my low tire sensors are bad. The low tire light on the dash won't go out. So I need to replace the TPMS sensors in my '06 type 5 Prius. I know I can pick them online much cheaper than at the dealer. My question is, is there some reprogramming that will need to be done. I'm assuming it will be some convoluted sequence with buttons on the dash similar to turning off the backup alarm, etc.
View 3 Replies1998 Corolla LD ... Diagnostic tests show that my check engine light stays on due to a charcoal canister. Is this an expensive repair?
View 7 RepliesI drive a 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback.I had a cracked evap canister, so I went to the junkyard and grabbed another. I installed it, but had problems filling the gas tank. It would fill a few seconds, then shut off. So, I got home, pulled the evap canister, and blew through each of the three ports. Two of them had air flow in and out to each other, the third was blocked. Checking the ops diagram, looks like that port runs to the intake manifold. Should it be blocked (has a check valve or something), or should it have airflow?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Excursion 6.8L V10. It runs like a champ, gets really good mileage for what it is, but there a strong fuel vapor smell coming from the charcoal vapor canister under the hood. You can smell it outside the truck and the smell gets pulled in through the vents - have to use Max AC recirc.
After checking and testing, I can confirm that the fuel vapor smell is coming from the charcoal canister and not anywhere else on the engine. The smell gets worse as the tank drains: Full Tank - Almost No Smell; Half Tank - Strong Smell; 1/4 Tank - Very Strong Smell.
Here is all that we have tried.-Replaced Fuel Cap (Genuine Ford)-Visually inspected the Evap Lines - Look Good-Visually inspected Fuel Line and Fuel Filter - Look Good-Checked the Fuel System for Leaks - None-Pressure Tested the Fuel System - No Leaks-Ran Multiple Smoke Tests on Evap System - No Leaks-Checked the Computer for Codes - No Codes-Replaced the Charcoal Vapor Canister (Genuine Ford)
We are totally stumped. I searched all the forums and can find issues with plugs, fuel injector o-rings, and leaks, but this has all be checked.
An MIL light came on the dash the other week while driving. Dealer cleared the error code but next morning it returned. Car is now in the shop to have the flapper motor and canister can replaced. Get it back tomorrow, Got '08 Jetta 2.5 as a loaner. I will run out of warranty in another couple of weeks(48100 mi. on it now).
View 10 RepliesToyota dealer said computer indicated the water pump and belt needed replacing. We decided to do the replacement ourself. Now the light comes on which indicates car is running hot. We did replace the coolant. The 2005 Toyota Prius never ran hot before the replacement, What did we do wrong?
View 3 RepliesSo of course it has to happen 3 weeks after my warranty expires. My CEL comes on and I have it read and the result is P0440. I find out that my wife has a habit of topping off the gas tank and so I am thinking that she has probably ruined the charcoal canister. It is something easy to replace?
I have an 06 limited edition... Yes, she will not be topping off any gas tank anymore.
On my 05 Prius (65K miles) I recently had my local Toyota dealer replace both the inverter water pump (for free per recall) and main engine water pump (~$500 based on their recommendation because of some coolant leakage). 1 week later, I got the P1121 code coming off and on intermittently.
My dealer says that the work they did is not related to P1121.
I had my hybrid water pump replaced (free, under recall) about a month ago. Now the check engine light comes on intermittently, and it's with error code 1121 (Coolant flow control valve sensor stuck). I've seen other people on this forum hypothesize that the work could cause this error (if not bled properly, leaving air in the system). But my dealer said the work had nothing to do with this error and I need to replace the control valve. How to suggest to my dealer that it could, in fact, be due to their work and that I think they should fix it for free?
View 15 RepliesActually 2 very similar questions about my Prius 2007.
1. My water pump was replaced by a dealer due to failure some half a year ago at 95,000 miles. Yesterday, after oil change (98,000), I was told it is recommended to replace engine coolant. Does this sound right? Don't they change coolant when replacing the pump?!
2. Identical question about HV pump. It was replaced at 80,000. Now they recommend do change the coolant for hybrid system. Don't they have to do it when replacing the pump?
I want to do everything necessary to maintain the car. But don't want to spend money for something that is not needed.
My '08 Prius Touring is in the shop today because the 'check engine' light came on at 68,500 miles. I just got word from them that the catalytic converter is bad and needs replacement. Good thing I bought the extended warranty! Well, I searched the forum for similar problems and it seems like this is somewhat common, albeit on cars with a bit more mileage and maybe a year or more older. I don't abuse my car at all, though I often roll into full-throttle while merging.
Is this a symptom of a poor part design or of a system that fouls the cat over a certain amount of time? I'm not looking forward to replacing it again at 130K after my extended warranty expires.
I took my 2008 prius with 183,000 miles in last week to have recall work done on it. they did the following:
1. Accelerator pedal recall
2. Steering shaft recall
3. Hybrid Electric water pump recall
The following day when I start my prius my check engine light comes on so I figure it was something they did on the recall work. I do have a scangauge, and the only code that showed on it was a P1304. I took it back to dealer today, and was told that it had multiple EVAP codes, and that the canister on top of gas tank is bad, and will need to be replaced. They said it was full of gas. They asked me if I stopped fueling car when pump shut off? I told them I always go to next whole dollar. They said to always stop as soon as pump shuts off(but on some pumps they shut off like crazy when pumping gas), I told them to just clear codes, and I would get back with them if I decide to have canister changed. So far check engine light has stayed off ( dealer is about 100 miles away)
Bought my daughter a 325Ci about three years ago and have replaced the power steering pump 3 times so far. That's four pumps including original which went out two years ago with about 60k miles. Car has 95k miles now and changing pumps faster than tires. Dealership said original had known defect and would be replaced with newer improved model. I fail to see the improvement...
View 8 RepliesMy 06 f250 with the 5.4 has a hard time being filled at the pump. So I followed the tsb and replaced the carbon canister, filter box and solenoid with the kit from my local ford dealer. Before it was impossible to get fuel in. Now it is way better but I have to fill it up with the gas nozzle upside down in order to fill at full speed. I have blown out the vent with compressed air.
View 6 RepliesI was having problems with my 2010 Prius, when I would try to put gas in it the pump would cut off after a small amount of gas. It would take quite a while to fill up the car. I took it to a Toyota Dealer and the problem was a plugged up charcoal canister, which they cleaned out. I live on a gravel road.
My question is, how to clean out the canisters? Can you just use an air hose? I'm sure running around with a plugged up canister can not be good for the car.
While installing a K&N air filter in my 2014 Prius Three 1.8L I noticed a charcoal pad in the air cleaner box. Might this be something of an impediment to air flow? I'm considering removing it to see if there is any performance boost.
View 12 RepliesFor an '04 Passat Wagon with manual transmission. NO 4-motion.
I'm buying liter bottles of gear oil G052911A2 and need to know how many to get for a full fluid change.
My AC vents have charcoal like flakes (disintegrate if you rub your fingers together) in addition to white powdery dust and fibers coming out of them. I have had the car to the dealership 3 times. The first time they replaced the drivers side left vent (claimed deterioration of the vent) - the second time they sent it back with nothing and the third time they replaced the evaporator coil. I'm still having issues with this material coming out - I've had the car for about a year and half and really don't want to get rid of it!
View 4 RepliesI know I am unusual but most days I drive about 3-4 miles. I can get 2-3 days out of a charge. Should I plug in every night or just when needed? Does it use more kWh to plug in every day?
View 19 Replies