Prius (2004-09) :: CEL Code P0300 After Replacing The Air Filter
Feb 20, 2012
My CEL has come on about four times in the last month shortly after replacing the air filter with a pepboys Purolator air filter. I have cleaned the MAF sensor each time using MAF cleaner and the issue along with the CEL go away then come back in about a week.
I don't know if the MAF sensor is bad because each time i clean it, the issue stops. also, upon first glance at the Purolator filter, i thought it looked a little thicker than the stock one but I didn't think twice about it.
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After replacing fuel filter, pump relay, and air filter for good measure my 2002 f250 v10 gas engine still wont start. What to do?
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2004 GMC Sierra 2500 HD, 227,000 miles 6.0L V8.
While driving up hills or increasing load, the CEL will flash multiple times, I pull over as I know CEL flashing is not good. I turn the truck off, allow it to sit for a few minutes, whip out the code scanner, only code that was there happens to be P0300. Truck has poor MPGS, idles rough, loss of power. this happens every time I drive this vehicle as I use this truck to pull my trailer that weighs around 4000 lbs. Problems come and go. Some days I can drive the truck for an hour with no problems, come up to a red-light, BAM, CEL is flashing, truck is bouncing side to side due to the poor idle, other days this happens while sitting in the parking lot of my job with the ac on.
Truck has been to the shop several times as I'm no mechanic. Parts replaced are as follows:
- Fuel pump
- Throttle Body
- All plugs
- All wires-All Coils
- Intake Manifold Gasket-
- Battery
- Sensor 1 Bank 1 O2 Sensor
- Sensor 1 Bank 2 O2 sensor
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5L V6 when i was driving a couple of days ago the check engine light flashed and after a while it stayed on the codes are P0300 which is a random misfire as well as a misfire in cylinder 2, 4 and 6
I replaced all 6 spark plugs and the 3 spark plug wires still the same issue. The car hesitates when accelerating when i accelerate it looks like it wants to stop the rpm goes to almost zero and then it moves and so on. the rpm goes up and down like crazy.
Sometimes it won't move past 1000 rpm I'm moving 60mph and still on 1000rpm and sometimes it works just fine like there is no issue at all. When idle the car is fine and everything seems normal it stays on 900rpm. The car has 158K miles on it.
I uploaded a video to show you what's happening to the tachometer when I accelerate [URL] ....
I'm on a limited budget I'm thinking of changing the ignition coils but i want to make sure that's what is causing the problem first because i spent 200$ to change spark plugs and wires and the mechanic didn't fix the issue.
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Recently i started the car and it was shaking more that usual. the CEL light came stating P0300 with random misfires. It sounds and feels like misfires so i believe this is true.
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When I replaced the cabin air filter recently, I noticed the little latch loop on the left hand side bottom was broken. I just put it together and it does not rattle.
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I have a p0300 code coming up on the comp. The motor runs fine until it gets wet. rain/carwash. I have tried to spray each coil with water and could not get it to misfire. Then I brought out the water hose and sprayed it top of the motor this found the misfire. This thing has 8 coils and I really don't want to replace them all. My Question is there some thing else that could be causing the misfires.
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I have a 100% stock 2004 Celica GT ~125,000 miles. Over the last few months I have been getting a rough idle and stumble at low rpms. The other day the car would not restart after sitting for about 20 minutes. Only recently has it actually thrown a DTC. The error codes were for misfires (P0300, P0301,P0302,P0303, P0304). I don’t get a code every time but the problem seems to be more noticeable if the car has been ran for a while, sits for 20-30 minutes while in a store and then when I try to start it when I come out of the store is when the problem most often occurs. When it restarts it will stumble at low RPM and if I hit the gas it has little response and misses badly. I have never used a scanner until now. I am using a Autel MS509 scanner and I am not sure it is giving me the correct diagnostic numbers for the live data. I think the DTC are correct but the live data is questionable.
Here is what I have done so far.
- Cleaned IAC valve (completely removed and cleaned)
- Searched for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Replaced all 4 injectors
- Replaced upstream and downstream O2 sensors
- Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor
- Ensured cam tensioner is providing adequate pressure to the cam chain
- Tried 2 sets of new Iridium NGK plugs and a new set of Bosch Copper plugs
- Moved coil packs around
- New air filter
- New fuel filter
- SeaFoam through intake and gas tank. I have not mixed in the oil.
- Compression Test (1=190,2=190,3=160,4=178)
Things I have not done.
- Taken it to the stealership
- Fuel pressure test
- Valve Clearance
I am concerned about the compression test because according to the service manual it should be around 218. I was using a Harbor Freight compression tester and I am not 100% sure I had a good seal with the tester.
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Just did the timing chain, phasers, oil pump and lash adjusters on my 05 5.4 s-crew. Always had a bit of a rough idle but now it's worse. If the truck idles for an extended period it sets a p0300. Just off idle the misfire is gone. It does seem a touch down on power but otherwise runs great. I did have the plugs out during the work. I cleaned them, applied anti seize and re installed. The previous owner had the plugs and COPs changed 10k miles ago. Plugs are motorcraft and coils are aftermarket.
I monitored with oreillys crappy scan tool and the miss only happens at idle. It is not a dead miss; unplugging COP on each cylinder still makes it worse.
Truck idles warm at like 570 rpm and if I hold my foot on the pedal to raise rpm a bit miss goes away.
Each cylinder is logging misfire counts with no rhyme or reason. The only thing odd during the timing job was 4 spark plugs were partially loose.
I'm sure the timing is correct; I used the OTC crank tool and for timing kit. Truck has 150k, front 02s are fairly new...
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Had this code show up after the warning light came on and then the light went away after two day, the car seems to be a little sluggish now. I have read that this is a random engine misfire and it could be a bad plug..
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I just drained and filled my transmission fluid and replaced the filter. My first time doing it myself. I measured the amount of fluid that came out and it came to just under 6 quarts. I started refilling it and so far I've put a little over 5 quarts in. I figured I'd check the dipstick as i got close to the amount and add more little by little until it's at the full line. The dipstick is showing fluid well above the full line (about 2 inches above). Is that normal when it's just been filled? Should I run it for a few minutes and check it again?
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Yesterday I went to star my 2.0 Jetta and it instantly starting sputtering at idle. After maybe a minute of sputtering the car died. Tried restarting it and it would instantly die after starting. Car threw code P0300: Random Misfire.
As of today the car now runs again with no problems. No codes. I didn't touch a thing and it seems to have resolved itself.
The entire engine bay was wet from condensation due to temperature change. Is there any way this could've contributed to the misfiring? I'm thinking the spark plug wires might have gotten wet and that was causing the misfire.
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My 04 Elantra GT hatch is my lifetime favorite car. Especially like the rear seats that fold flat. It has 104k miles, but I want to keep it going.
Day before yesterday the blower started making loud noises. I took car back to Pepboys who replaced the cabin air filter they put in a month ago. They had installed it incorrectly, and it shredded with a 6 inch hole in the middle, and paper everywhere. When I left, the fan was not making any unusual noises.
Yesterday I drove 20 minutes on freeway, stopped to shop, started driving, and turned on fan. Immediately the check light went on. Back to Pepboys, service manager said check was P0501 and was a transmission speed sensor that couldn't be related to the filter mess.
Last night I found the Hyundai forum and I read in a post that this is a wheel speed sensor that would be located in the right front wheel and well not far from the cabin filter. Is it possible that the debris from the fan/filter collision has affected this speed sensor? Or is this just a very untimely coincidence?
I know nothing about automobiles. What I should do next and thereafter? Is it safe to drive this car as usual until the problem is fixed?
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After replacing the fuel filter, O2 sensor, and checking plugs and wires and the rotor, my 91 toyota corolla is still sputtering and its driving me nuts.
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I have a 2011 GTI (purchased new in 2010) with a stage 1 APR tune and a carbonio stage 1 intake. 71K miles on the car, tune has been on it from nearly the beginning, no issues. I have religiously filled with 93 octane gas -- like, always. The other day I was filling up an empty tank in NJ -- land of mandatory attendants -- and I accidentally said "premium" instead of "super." (I normally self-serve in PA). Before I realized what had happened, I had a full tank of 91 in the car.
I run the 93 octane program on my APR, and I couldn't remember how to switch, so I've been running around the last few days that way, seemingly with no issues. I'm not even sure what's supposed to happen if you burn 91 while in the 93 program.
Anyway, yesterday I happened to go full-throttle in 1st or 2nd gear, and I ran into a little stumble. Strange, but I figured maybe this was the result of my refueling mistake. So, I got out my APR manual and figured out how to switch programs down to the 91 program, which I then did. Took the car out again, and was still able to get it to stumble, eventually with a blinking, then solid CEL. A quick VCDS check showed a "Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected" -- P0300 and "Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected - MIL" -- P0302.
Now at 71K miles, I've never replaced the coils or the plugs, although I have had 2 intake manifolds replaced under warranty. I'm kind of figuring the octane and tune are not really causing this and it's probably just in need of some coils/plugs. what is "supposed" to happen if you run 91 octane on the 93 program? I haven't tired backing down to stock yet, but I could certainly do that and see what happens.
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I got a 1997 sonoma which has a p0300 code. I changed the plugs and wires, cap and rotor and the pcv value, and it still misses. what could this be?
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Replaced fuel pump and filter on our 2001 Nissan Quest. It started up for a few minutes but once it got hot it sputtered out. We sprayed some starter fluid in it. Still nothing.
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I've got the intermittent misfire codes on my '02 Camry, and after changing the spark plugs and the ignition coils the problem still persists.
At first there was no noticeable misfire, I took it to two different mechanics and neither said they could find anything wrong. A few weeks later the misfire became noticeable when I'm sitting at a stop light. I can feel an occasional rumble in the engine.
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I have a 2001 ls that runs rich and shows no codes except p0300. It will miss under loads and get worse as temp rises. I can smell exhaust and burns eyes when running inside shop.
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I took my 2006 W12 to get its yearly smog check, and it will not run "air" monitors due to intermittent misfire. The code is P0300.
Any way clearing this up? (I could find no air leaks)....
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Went to do a few things this morning, started the car and it ran like crap. It was an obvious multi cylinder misfire. I checked to make sure all the coil connections and all other visible connectors were tight. Went back around and noticed the mil was flashing, so I shut it down and took the girl's car. I returned later in the afternoon and swapped out my intake in anticipation of it going to the dealer. Started up the car afterward and it ran fine without the mil lit. I had the codes pulled:
p0300 p0303 p0306 Its kind of weird that 2 coils would go at the same time. Do these cylinders share a coil or fuel injector driver off the ecm?
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