Prius (2004-09) :: Brakes Fail To Engage While Putting Into Gear
Mar 18, 2013
I have taken my 2004 Pruis into the Toyota dealership and have been told that there is nothing wrong with my car and it is safe to drive. Here is what is happening.
Sometimes when I start my car and put the car into gear, which you are not supposed to be able to do without your foot on the brake, the car will start rolling before I take my foot off of the brake. I am on level ground when this happens, and I am positive I have my foot firmly on the brake. My first inclination is to push harder on the brake, which does nothing. If I take my foot off of the brake and then reapply it, then the brakes will work and the car will stop.
After this happened a few times, I started paying more careful attention. Whenever this happens, the ABS light is on. When I take my foot off of the brake, the ABS light goes off, and as I said, the brakes work normally.
Furthermore, this only happens if I have been sitting in my parked car for a few minutes with the engine off. It does not happen if I am getting into the car after being away for a few minutes, it only happens if I sit in the car for a few minutes and then turn the car back on to go somewhere.
This is, of course, not only irritating, but unsafe. It can be easy, if you are distracted, to have the car roll into someone or something if you are looking away, thinking that even though you put the car into gear, it will not go anywhere because it is not supposed to go anywhere, you have your foot on the brake!!!!
View 12 Replies
Advertisement
I have taken my 2004 Pruis into the Toyota dealership and have been told that there is nothing wrong with my car and it is safe to drive. Here is what is happening.
Sometimes when I start my car and put the car into gear, which you are not supposed to be able to do without your foot on the brake, the car will start rolling before I take my foot off of the brake. I am on level ground when this happens, and I am positive I have my foot firmly on the brake. My first inclination is to push harder on the brake, which does nothing. If I take my foot off of the brake and then reapply it, then the brakes will work and the car will stop.
After this happened a few times, I started paying more careful attention. Whenever this happens, the ABS light is on. When I take my foot off of the brake, the ABS light goes off, and as I said, the brakes work normally.
Furthermore, this only happens if I have been sitting in my parked car for a few minutes with the engine off. It does not happen if I am getting into the car after being away for a few minutes, it only happens if I sit in the car for a few minutes and then turn the car back on to go somewhere.
This is, of course, not only irritating, but unsafe. It can be easy, if you are distracted, to have the car roll into someone or something if you are looking away, thinking that even though you put the car into gear, it will not go anywhere because it is not supposed to go anywhere, you have your foot on the brake!!!!
View 5 Replies
My grandma had purchased an almost brand new B6 Passat with the 4-motion VR6 all leather interior with about 8k on the odometer. Recently she has had some problems with it and has asked me what is going on, My dad has an Audi Allroad, my mom has a 01 A4 event and I have a 04 GLI so we know some stuff about the cars but these problems are eluding me and I was going to look for some counseling. First, her front tires are making this horrible sound, she says it sounds like a Mack truck and it gets worse as you go faster. I'm thinking its the tires but why would it be like that only after 8k? The second problem is her transmission, she has had the transmission fail to engage into gear 3 times, where it takes about 2-10 seconds before it engages. Now the car has about 10k on it. [URL]....
View 11 Replies
In 2007 purchased above referenced vehicle. First week it began to jerk a little when changing gears or just driving it. Last week it began to jerk violently when putting it into gear; then it finally died as i pushed on the brake. It was towed to AAMCO for diagnostics and they finally said the problem was out of their league, or it would cost 800-1000 for complete car diagnostics. Referred me to master mechanic. But I'm taking it back to the dealer. QUESTION: because there seems to be a history of electrical related issues with the model, and recalls found back in 2004, would this car be classified as a "lemon" or is it possible for the electrical issue to be fixed, or should I "junk" the vehicle?
View 1 Replies
Today i tried to start my 07 Prius, all the normal start up lights came on, including the master warning light, but the master warning light didn't go off. No other abnormal lights were on. When i put the car in reverse to back out, it wouldn't engage in the gear, it wouldn't back up. When tried to turn it off, it wouldn't respond to the power button, it wouldn't go off. I kept trying and eventually it did turn off.
The other thing that wasn't normal was, with the power off, when i opened the door, from the outside to get in, or from the inside to get out, the car started making the warning beep with the red car door open light flashing. Close the door and it stopped.
I have hardly been driving the car since the end of June, i take it out about once a week to keep the battery charged, and it's been working fine. However, about a month and a half ago, i accidentally left the overhead light on and it was on for a few days, and then the battery would not start the car. Auto Club came out and jumped it and since then, it starts OK
View 2 Replies
I'm in a bit of a bind. I was very low on gas drove my car on fumes (mistake, yes) back to my place. Today, it will not start. I dumped 3/4 of a gallon into the tank, and still no start.
The ignition will try, fail to engage the engine, and then emit rapid clicks as the interior light flashes. The battery works, as all the cabin lights turn on.
I really don't want to the fuel pump to be broken, so I'm trying to eliminate possibilities before that. Is there something wrong with the ignition, perhaps? What is the clicking after the attempted "heaves" of the ignition switch?
View 3 Replies
I have a 2008 that has always been dependable. 1 mo or so ago when driving, lost all power. Had it towed to Toyota and they replaced main fuse. 2 weeks later, would not start. Replaced 12 v battery. 2 weeks later, won't start again. Towed to Toyota again. (300 for the two tows, 225 for battery, 350 for fuse) and Toyota said working fine. No failure and they didn't find anything. No error codes. I need car for work and can't keep getting stranded and needing tows.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2002 VW Passat wagon. We have had an extremely cold winter here in New England (coldest January since 1898!). Anytime the temperature goes under 10 degrees overnight, my brakes do not work in the morning. When I put my foot on the brake pedal, it does not move and the car will not stop. It takes quite a while before I have full breaking capacity restored. Eventually, it gets back to normal (sometimes takes 45 minutes of driving). In addition, the last time this happened, before I got full braking back, my front brakes locked up and smoked like crazy. When I put my foot on the gas, they disengaged. I've taken the car in for service, left it with the dealer the night before so that it would be there, cold, in the morning, but the problem didn't occur because the temp didn't get cold enough. They couldn't find anything wrong. That's because the brakes work fine when the temp is above 10 degrees. Also, under the same temperature conditions, my automatic transmission will not shift beyond 2nd gear until the car is warmed up.
View 18 Replies
I purchased a 2001 Prius with 123K miles about two weeks ago. I knew the HV battery was shot when i purchased it. I decided to see if I could rebuild the HV battery on my own.
I'm very mechanical but not the brightest bulb in the room when it comes to batteries and anything electrical.
So here is where I'm at so far:
- I removed the HV battery.
- safely rested it on 2 horses (I used horses because it would give me easy access to the bottom to remove the bottom screws)
- Removed all 38 modules from the battery pack
- cleaned the busses in vinegar
- inspected each wire that connects between buss and the nut.
- tested each battery ( one of the batteries tested at -0.1, the others tested at 6.8)
- I don't know how to load test the modules, so I couldn't tell if they would drop dramatically under load, so I ordered 38 used replacement batteries off of Ebay. (Gen II)
- these replacement modules were about a half inch longer than my original modules.
- The replacement modules arrived. I cleaned the terminals, tested each one and installed them.
- Connected the battery back into the prius.
- Installed new 12V battery from the Toyota dealer.
- The Prius started right up.
- Drove it around for the first time for about 10 minutes.
- When i was driving it, the monitor in the Prius would show the engine running most of the time but sometimes it would show it charging the HV and other times charging the 12V. the engine would shut off at stop lights and resume when I pressed on the gas pedal.
- while driving back into my driveway, all of the warning lights came on and the battery fan kicked into high gear,
- I can't remember the code I pulled but it was in reference to the cells being out of balance I think. I'll have to check it again tonight when I get home.
- I removed the HV and tightened the nuts around the busses hoping the issue would be resolved.
- I was able to drive it only a few minutes before the issue returned.
other issues I noticed.
While waiting for the replacement batteries to arrive, I did the following:
- changed the cabin filter
- did an oil change.
- changed the tranny fluid and removed the tranny pan to clean out the slime and clean off the magnet.)
- changed the rear brake shoes.
- changed the front brake rotors and pads. ( they were in awful condition due to sitting so long)
***when I pressed on the brakes, only the rear brakes seem to engage, not the front. I never attempted to bleed them because I know only the dealer can do that)
View 19 Replies
I have a 2008 Prius. In 2009, I got into a collision, and the car required extensive body work. This week, I took my car to the mechanic to repair the air conditioning system - only warm air was blowing out. According to my mechanic, the compressor went out because the auto body shop put in the wrong oil in the air conditioning system and re-installed the fans backwards. I got my car back today, and the air conditioning works really great!
However, my family spoke to their mechanic (different person from my mechanic), and he indicated that used compressors are dangerous due to the high likelihood that contaminants will be leaked. This sounds completely ludicrous to me. My mechanic said that the other mechanic's concerns are unfounded.
View 12 Replies
After getting on the highway, the red triangle of death, the amber ABS and the VSC lights came on, and little exclamation point came on on millage/audio screen, while battery power went down from high blue to one blue bar. Pulled car over to parking lot, and put in park. After putting it in park, the car would not go out of neutral, but the power still worked.
View 15 Replies
A little back story my hybrid battery went out about 4 months ago ago and I've been saving money to get it fixed. I've been trying to remember to start it and get it moving every so often. Well I guess I didn't do it enough because go to drive the Prius yesterday to get it started and moved since it's been awhile and the main battery is dead. The way the Prius is parked I can't even get to it to jump it. I'm wondering is there a way to put it in neutral with a dead battery? Or is there a way to charge the battery, since it's actually inside the car? And I'm assuming since the 12V is drained, I'll have to replace that as well correct?
I'm about over this car, while it done great the first 7 years I had it, past two have been a royal pain. Ready to go back to a normal engine and car.
View 8 Replies
had issue/backed into garage door with rear of car---car will now not go into gear--gear shift will not engage. can manually engage with button, but, will not do normally. abs break system light now on. what do I do?
View 2 Replies
Sounds like it's coming from the gray plastic that's attached to the center console.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2002 ZX2 Escort Automatic and after driving it one morning, that night it wouldn't go after putting it in gear, all that happened was the rpm would go up than after a lil bit the car wouldn't move. I Noticed fluid all over the ground and didn't think nothing of it, anyway what to do?
View 4 Replies
I've got a 2011 tiguan SEL 4motion and occasionally it feels like after starting the car and putting it in D (typically only when it's moved right into D) it seems to feel like the transmissions is repeatedly trying to get into gear. It doesn't seem to effect being able to drive off just seemed odd and kind of annoying. Or like the torque converter was locking and unlocking repeatedly.
I've also felt the same occasional jolt while sitting at a stop. I'll be bringing the car in for a 40k soon and will be having them check it out, but thought I'd see if this was a typical thing.
View 5 Replies
On my 2012 Avalon, moving shifter to the left of "D" for manual mode causes a downshift to 4th gear. Is it supposed to do this? For me, this would be poor design in that I may be setting up to pass, but not quite ready to downshift to 5th yet. And even going 60mph it still gets 4th... Or I may be going to climb a mountain (as I was going to Colorado last week) and only need 5th, not 4th. So I have to upshift to 5th AFTER I move to manual mode..
View 7 Replies
My issues: when I'm on gear 1 for example, on hot days, and only on hot days ( 25 deg.c and more) when I put it on neutral it suppose to go at "home" position ( i think this is how you guys call it, like align with the 3rd gear) But it stays align the the first.
Same with all the gears. It's stays aligned with the gear I just left.
View 3 Replies
I have a 92 2wd with a 5.7 and it keeps getting way to hot. I have changed the water pump, Thermostat (fail safe), and heater core and had the entire system flushed. and it is still getting really hot. If is is in park it does not get hot, but when i put it in gear it gets over the half way mark in just a couple minutes. I have noticed that it has an after market transmission cooler to me it looks to small for a my truck it is a 12in square and 3/4in thick. The radiator has the holes for the Transmission lines but they have been pluged off. Should I go back to a factory setup and flush the lines or upgrade the size of the cooler? and is there a way for me to flush the transmission lines myself?
View 5 Replies
Outside of lawnmowers, this is my first carbureted engine. I have always fixed stuff that broke on the vehicles I've owned, and done some difficult (for me) task such as replacing a timing belt on a honda, and mcpherson strutts and a head gasket on a 4 cylinder SAAB.
I'm the new owner of a '68 F100 that was originally a 3 on the tree inline six. It's been converted to an FE390 with an automatic transmission (C6 I believe). It has an edelbrock 1411 (750CFM). I've recently got it running at idle of it's own gas tank. This is the list of work I've performed since getting it.
Replaced:
old gas
old oil
brake master cylinder
old dot3
plugs and wires
I also added 3-4 quarts of F-type tranny fluid.
Related to the Carb all i've done is removed it and dumped some carb cleaner in the bowls.
The Problem is:
Car starts and idles fine. When I drop it into any gear, the engine bogs down and begins to idle much slower. If i feather the gas pedal, or punch it, the engine dies.
I'm told that the carburetor had some components replaced (springs/jets) to make it run properly, so my guess is that it is closer to a 1407 now, just with electronic choke. I'm intimidated by tearing the carb apart and attempting to rebuild it, but I'm willing to do it if that's what it will take, I'm also willing to buy a new carb to avoid 12 hours of work trying to fix the existing one, but I'm afraid I'll have tuning issues beyond my capabilities even with a new carb. Also, the truck doesn't have a tach to assist in the tuning process.
I'd love to bolt something on and start driving, but I'm guessing it won't be that easy. Is it most likely a carb problem? Any recommendations on what I should do, considering my total lack of experience with carburetors?
View 14 Replies
I got a 1986 chevy g20 conversion van and I am having a problem with it once in a while it will stall out after putting it into gear it does not do this a lot but it does happen also smells like its running rich and until it warms up while the van is in park you can hear a intermittent click sound goes click click............................click...click no real rhythm just kinda does it then stops when in any gear besides park friend said it could be a small backfire. The engine is a 350 V8 4 barrel carbed.
View 1 Replies
