Prius (2004-09) :: Brakes Fail To Engage When Put Car Into Gear
Apr 12, 2013
I have taken my 2004 Pruis into the Toyota dealership and have been told that there is nothing wrong with my car and it is safe to drive. Here is what is happening.
Sometimes when I start my car and put the car into gear, which you are not supposed to be able to do without your foot on the brake, the car will start rolling before I take my foot off of the brake. I am on level ground when this happens, and I am positive I have my foot firmly on the brake. My first inclination is to push harder on the brake, which does nothing. If I take my foot off of the brake and then reapply it, then the brakes will work and the car will stop.
After this happened a few times, I started paying more careful attention. Whenever this happens, the ABS light is on. When I take my foot off of the brake, the ABS light goes off, and as I said, the brakes work normally.
Furthermore, this only happens if I have been sitting in my parked car for a few minutes with the engine off. It does not happen if I am getting into the car after being away for a few minutes, it only happens if I sit in the car for a few minutes and then turn the car back on to go somewhere.
This is, of course, not only irritating, but unsafe. It can be easy, if you are distracted, to have the car roll into someone or something if you are looking away, thinking that even though you put the car into gear, it will not go anywhere because it is not supposed to go anywhere, you have your foot on the brake!!!!
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I have taken my 2004 Pruis into the Toyota dealership and have been told that there is nothing wrong with my car and it is safe to drive. Here is what is happening.
Sometimes when I start my car and put the car into gear, which you are not supposed to be able to do without your foot on the brake, the car will start rolling before I take my foot off of the brake. I am on level ground when this happens, and I am positive I have my foot firmly on the brake. My first inclination is to push harder on the brake, which does nothing. If I take my foot off of the brake and then reapply it, then the brakes will work and the car will stop.
After this happened a few times, I started paying more careful attention. Whenever this happens, the ABS light is on. When I take my foot off of the brake, the ABS light goes off, and as I said, the brakes work normally.
Furthermore, this only happens if I have been sitting in my parked car for a few minutes with the engine off. It does not happen if I am getting into the car after being away for a few minutes, it only happens if I sit in the car for a few minutes and then turn the car back on to go somewhere.
This is, of course, not only irritating, but unsafe. It can be easy, if you are distracted, to have the car roll into someone or something if you are looking away, thinking that even though you put the car into gear, it will not go anywhere because it is not supposed to go anywhere, you have your foot on the brake!!!!
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My grandma had purchased an almost brand new B6 Passat with the 4-motion VR6 all leather interior with about 8k on the odometer. Recently she has had some problems with it and has asked me what is going on, My dad has an Audi Allroad, my mom has a 01 A4 event and I have a 04 GLI so we know some stuff about the cars but these problems are eluding me and I was going to look for some counseling. First, her front tires are making this horrible sound, she says it sounds like a Mack truck and it gets worse as you go faster. I'm thinking its the tires but why would it be like that only after 8k? The second problem is her transmission, she has had the transmission fail to engage into gear 3 times, where it takes about 2-10 seconds before it engages. Now the car has about 10k on it. [URL]....
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Today i tried to start my 07 Prius, all the normal start up lights came on, including the master warning light, but the master warning light didn't go off. No other abnormal lights were on. When i put the car in reverse to back out, it wouldn't engage in the gear, it wouldn't back up. When tried to turn it off, it wouldn't respond to the power button, it wouldn't go off. I kept trying and eventually it did turn off.
The other thing that wasn't normal was, with the power off, when i opened the door, from the outside to get in, or from the inside to get out, the car started making the warning beep with the red car door open light flashing. Close the door and it stopped.
I have hardly been driving the car since the end of June, i take it out about once a week to keep the battery charged, and it's been working fine. However, about a month and a half ago, i accidentally left the overhead light on and it was on for a few days, and then the battery would not start the car. Auto Club came out and jumped it and since then, it starts OK
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I'm in a bit of a bind. I was very low on gas drove my car on fumes (mistake, yes) back to my place. Today, it will not start. I dumped 3/4 of a gallon into the tank, and still no start.
The ignition will try, fail to engage the engine, and then emit rapid clicks as the interior light flashes. The battery works, as all the cabin lights turn on.
I really don't want to the fuel pump to be broken, so I'm trying to eliminate possibilities before that. Is there something wrong with the ignition, perhaps? What is the clicking after the attempted "heaves" of the ignition switch?
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I have a 2008 that has always been dependable. 1 mo or so ago when driving, lost all power. Had it towed to Toyota and they replaced main fuse. 2 weeks later, would not start. Replaced 12 v battery. 2 weeks later, won't start again. Towed to Toyota again. (300 for the two tows, 225 for battery, 350 for fuse) and Toyota said working fine. No failure and they didn't find anything. No error codes. I need car for work and can't keep getting stranded and needing tows.
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I have a 2002 VW Passat wagon. We have had an extremely cold winter here in New England (coldest January since 1898!). Anytime the temperature goes under 10 degrees overnight, my brakes do not work in the morning. When I put my foot on the brake pedal, it does not move and the car will not stop. It takes quite a while before I have full breaking capacity restored. Eventually, it gets back to normal (sometimes takes 45 minutes of driving). In addition, the last time this happened, before I got full braking back, my front brakes locked up and smoked like crazy. When I put my foot on the gas, they disengaged. I've taken the car in for service, left it with the dealer the night before so that it would be there, cold, in the morning, but the problem didn't occur because the temp didn't get cold enough. They couldn't find anything wrong. That's because the brakes work fine when the temp is above 10 degrees. Also, under the same temperature conditions, my automatic transmission will not shift beyond 2nd gear until the car is warmed up.
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I purchased a 2001 Prius with 123K miles about two weeks ago. I knew the HV battery was shot when i purchased it. I decided to see if I could rebuild the HV battery on my own.
I'm very mechanical but not the brightest bulb in the room when it comes to batteries and anything electrical.
So here is where I'm at so far:
- I removed the HV battery.
- safely rested it on 2 horses (I used horses because it would give me easy access to the bottom to remove the bottom screws)
- Removed all 38 modules from the battery pack
- cleaned the busses in vinegar
- inspected each wire that connects between buss and the nut.
- tested each battery ( one of the batteries tested at -0.1, the others tested at 6.8)
- I don't know how to load test the modules, so I couldn't tell if they would drop dramatically under load, so I ordered 38 used replacement batteries off of Ebay. (Gen II)
- these replacement modules were about a half inch longer than my original modules.
- The replacement modules arrived. I cleaned the terminals, tested each one and installed them.
- Connected the battery back into the prius.
- Installed new 12V battery from the Toyota dealer.
- The Prius started right up.
- Drove it around for the first time for about 10 minutes.
- When i was driving it, the monitor in the Prius would show the engine running most of the time but sometimes it would show it charging the HV and other times charging the 12V. the engine would shut off at stop lights and resume when I pressed on the gas pedal.
- while driving back into my driveway, all of the warning lights came on and the battery fan kicked into high gear,
- I can't remember the code I pulled but it was in reference to the cells being out of balance I think. I'll have to check it again tonight when I get home.
- I removed the HV and tightened the nuts around the busses hoping the issue would be resolved.
- I was able to drive it only a few minutes before the issue returned.
other issues I noticed.
While waiting for the replacement batteries to arrive, I did the following:
- changed the cabin filter
- did an oil change.
- changed the tranny fluid and removed the tranny pan to clean out the slime and clean off the magnet.)
- changed the rear brake shoes.
- changed the front brake rotors and pads. ( they were in awful condition due to sitting so long)
***when I pressed on the brakes, only the rear brakes seem to engage, not the front. I never attempted to bleed them because I know only the dealer can do that)
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had issue/backed into garage door with rear of car---car will now not go into gear--gear shift will not engage. can manually engage with button, but, will not do normally. abs break system light now on. what do I do?
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Just put the 6.0 back in the truck, engine working good now. Went to take it for a test drive and the transmission will not engage in any gear. I don't have any codes coming up on my scanner. Can not figure out why the transmission is not working from engine R&R.
- Fluid level is good
- Swapped wiring harness from my other truck and still nothing
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I've had my 2009 Prius II for about a year now and I have NEVER been able to turn on the accessory mode. I followed the manual and put the smart key in the slot and pushed the power button while keeping my foot off of the brake pedal but I get NO RESPONSE. I tried holding the power button down, pushing it just once, and pushing it repeatedly. I've successfully engaged accessory mode on a similar interface before (on a hybrid Highlander) with no problem.
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I own two Prius, the 2005 & 2007. Been driving and repairing both of them for years
My 2007 has the red triangle for the "P" park won't engage issue. No issues at all just the dam message keeps popping up when I come to a stop and of course the constant red triangle. I drive it 60 miles everyday in the snow, rain and wind with this issue.
Still researching the issue and one day I'm sure I will resolve it but until then I'm not worried. BTW its 100% not a battery issue, been down that road.
My question is about the emission test. I don't and never had a CEL on or any codes although I do know there could be some deeper Toyota codes that I can't pull with a traditional OTC scanner. With that said, given that I don't have a CEL on, will the red triangle cause for me to fail the emission test when they run the test?
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On my 2011 Prius Four, the brakes are VERY sensitive and bordering on "grabby" when in reverse gear. I don't know if that is common or if I should have it worked on by dealer. Brakes are fine in forward gear.
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Hard to put it all in a title. I have 149K miles on our 2009. The warranty expires in 1000 miles. I've noticed recently that I can no longer engage the ev mode with the ev mod. I always get a "cannot change into eve mode" message on the MFD. It used to be that I could do it before the engine started or after all warm up cycles were complete.
Now, when first powering on, ev mode won't engage before engine start and there is no MFD message. After warm up is complete, the message appears on the MFD whenever I try to change to EV mode.
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I have noticed that my 2008 Prius does not always engage EV mode (after I push the EV button) when the battery is green (nearly fully charged) and speed is well below 45 km/hr. Message displayed is "switching to EV mode is invalid now". So it seems there are factors at play other than the speed and the level of traction battery charge.
What these are? Is battery temperature monitored? Will the operation of the air conditioner affect it? Most times it doesn't but I wonder if under certain circumstances it might.
I use it at times if I am going up a slow speed incline, often from a standing start, knowing that there will be plenty of opportunity to recharge shortly after.
Weather here is pretty warm- around 30C maximum during the day.
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So, I have a 2004 Dodge Neon that had a radiator fail, pushing coolant into the transmission. I tried one garage that wouldn't touch it, but did find another one willing to try a power flush. I had that done, and several subsequent flushes over two weeks left me with clean transmission fluid. It's been about 3 weeks (and one 200 mile trip) without any issues, but I'm a little worried about any damage that might've been done.
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I've recently started to have issues where when I get up over 55/60 mph the traction control will engage and limit the acceleration of my 2009 prius. I took the car into my local Toyota dealership and they claim it is because of the size tire I have.
I recently purchased a set of Hankook Optimo H727 replacement tires. After having done my research (mostly on these forums) I decided to go with the P195/60R15 tire size. Now I have several reasons to believe that the dealership has misdiagnosed the issue:
1. There are loads of people on this site who have installed 195 size tires (and larger) without issue as far as I can tell.
2. The issue did not begin immediately after installing the new tires, but rather a couple months later.
3. My brother installed the same exact tires on his 2005 Prius and does a lot more freeway driving than I do and has not had an issue.
4. My understanding from reading here is that in some other countries Priuses come with 195 size tires stock.
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There had been a lot of discussion about the engine light coming on and the Engine fail safe mode. A lot of folks said the dealer could not fix it. It happened to me and my dealer fixed it. This is what the dealer did to correct the problem
EEC Tested
Code P2106
Disconnected all wheel speed sensors and reprogramed PCM per SSM 17272 and Ford Hotline
No more problems.....
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The brakes will not engage until the brake peddle is at least 1/3 of the way down, resulting in a big delay in time to stop. In stop and go traffic it is very dangerous. I have to actually "ride" the brake in rush hour traffic in order to be ready for a quick traffic problem as this brake system is very slow to respond. This is obviously a safety flaw in manufacturing or design but it must be fixed as its not a matter of if an accident will occur but when will it occur. I test drove another LX 570 and found the same brake issue with that unit as well.
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2006 Toyota Prius, bought new in Oct 2006, currently at 90,000 miles.
It just recently broke down on me about a month ago, the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree with every possible light flashing and nav screen showing "problem." I took it to the Toyota dealership and they determined it was a hybrid system fail and replaced the battery.
After this, I'm thinking all is well. I go out of town this past weekend 130 miles away from where I live and day 2 into vacation my dashboard lights up again! Same lights, flashing red triangle, Vsc, check engine, etc. it gets me back to my hotel but the next morning the engine won't start. At least the first time it broke down the cars engine worked and was somewhat drivable.
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Is there a correlation between a Prius sitting in the hot sun and the computer malfunctioning? When I came out from a movie yesterday, the temps read 106 degrees outside the car. The emergency brake light was on, though the brake was off. I pumped the brake on/off a couple of times, but the light stayed on. As I pulled out, the brake seemed to engage, then disengage causing the engine to stutter and surge. The service tech today tells me the computer is not communicating and at 50,000 miles. Is it worth the money to get the new computer? Will the car be safe afterwards?
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