Prius (2004-09) :: Brake Boost Pump Running Much More Frequently Than Normal
Feb 6, 2013
During the last week, or slightly less I suddenly started hearing the brake boost pump running much more frequently than normal in my 2008 and is also producing a "knocking" noise along with its run noise which increases in frequency as the pump speed increases. No problems with the engine coolant pump for the thermos, and the inverter pump was replaced yesterday along with a replaced "bolt" in the steering column for the recall.
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I have noticed that when I open the door to the driver's side after the car has been sitting overnight that the pump noise is longer than half a year ago when i bought it used. It used to last for max. 3 or so seconds, and now it takes 5-10s - depends. I can get into car and almost get it into ready and then it ends.
Also, every second or third time i press the brake (normal, like when stopping gently) i can hear the sound of the pump for around 2 seconds. I don't remember that happening before so is this or isn't normal?
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On our 2008 Prius, while the brake assist pump is running I get a steady thump-thump-thump-thump noise, as shown in the video below. If you put your foot on the brake the noise stops. The brakes operate fine and there are no warning lights on. What this might be? It's coming from the passenger side of the car, and oddly it's loudest under the car near the back seat. 86,000 miles on the car.
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My 05 was running rough and misfiring quite frequently. After much deliberation, I took it in for a diagnostic hookup. The dealer said my driver side cat was clogged. Lucky for me, I was just under the warranty period(79673 miles). I have had it replaced and I can feel a noticeable difference in the way it runs. Could a clogged cat have made it run that poorly or am is it just in my head that it is running alot better?
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I used to get great MPG's in the beginning (>57 MPG in summer) that deteriorated as the engine started to run longer and more frequently after what I suspected to be a faint bump against a garage wall in the front. This was several months ago. I have since been averaging about 47 MPG overall (averaging winter, summer out). I forgot about the bump incident until last week when the engine suddenly started running shorter and less frequently. This lasted for a week or so, with no significant changes in the weather/temperature. And then inexplicably, it has started to run longer and more frequently again. By "more frequently", I mean when I bring ICE on, it doesn't easily quit, regardless of my prodding it to quit by going into regen momentarily. Also, the initial warmup is longer.
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I had the doors open while unloading the car this morning and noticed that the brake booster pump just kept running and running and running, plus I can hear a strange, hollow rattling sound somewhere under the car that coincides with the pump. When I say it runs "constantly," I really mean that it runs for 10 seconds (with the rattle), stops for about 5 seconds (silence), runs and rattles for ten seconds again, stops for another five, and just keeps on going for as long as I care to sit there with the door open.
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Toyota dealer said computer indicated the water pump and belt needed replacing. We decided to do the replacement ourself. Now the light comes on which indicates car is running hot. We did replace the coolant. The 2005 Toyota Prius never ran hot before the replacement, What did we do wrong?
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2003 - I tried to change the brake fluid with a MityVac. I've done it to dozens of cars with no problem. With the Prius it didn't take it well as I have to pump the pedal sometimes to stop or the pedal goes way down. Only now I read about how a special Toyota scan tool is recommended to do it. Is there any other way? I only really did the front brakes since after trying one rear wheel cylinder and getting nothing out of it, I quit. The dealer wants $165 and I'm sure that doesn't include any extra shop fees and such they tack on. What other way can I try before taking it in?
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I understand the engine turns on and off frequently (coming to a stop it turns off, then when going it turns on). I have noticed that sometimes when at the stop it will turn off, then immediately back on, and off again, even with my foot on the break.
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I have a 2009 prius with 85k miles on it, bought it two weeks ago, right off the bat I noticed that the left headlight, while driving, will frequently go out. It comes back on when I turn the headlights off and on again, and goes out again later.
Sometimes it stays on, other times it goes right out. I took the headlamp off, disconnected all wires, and cleaned it of any corrosion that was found and reconnected it, and the light still went out. What would be causing this/ what a fix is non mechanic oriented?
Worth mentioning that I've noticed condensation build up on the inside of the headlamp occasionally, and one time both lights flickered and then went out, but that hasn't happened since.
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My 2007 Prius (151,000 miles) just started making what sounds like a scraping sound when in motion. This does not happen every time I drive it. The dealership said I need to replace the brake fluid actuator pump.
He couldn't really tell me what would happen if I don't have it fixed. He said perhaps the power brakes would go out, or maybe the anti-lock brake system. Either way, I don't want to mess with possible brake failure. But the cost of this repair is so high, and my car already has 151,000 miles. I'd love to drive it to 300,000 miles if I can, but am I being realistic? I'm wondering if it's worth investing this much money in a car with so many miles.
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I have a 2009 prius with 85k miles on it, bought it two weeks ago, right off the bat I noticed that the left headlight, while driving, will frequently go out. It comes back on when I turn the headlights off and on again, and goes out again later. Sometimes it stays on, other times it goes right out. I took the headlamp off, disconnected all wires, and cleaned it of any corrosion that was found and reconnected it, and the light still went out. What would be causing this/ what a fix is non mechanic oriented?
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Recently installed a curt trailer light. I modified the V plug in harness to work with the C.
I noticed the fan was running louder then usual. I took the right rear panel off were the HV exhaust vent it and there is no ducting from the factory.
The battery duct just goes to the back of the seat and vents out in that right corner right behind the 12V.
It makes its way up and over the right rear tire tub then what ever comes out of the rear exhaust, just vents out with momentum from down below. No duct guiding it from what I can see?
I went back and zip tied a wire that was in the path to sides were other factory wiring runs.
This seemed to fix the issue after making everything neat?
Not sure what caused it but it seems to be from wiring that was in the way? When I run the HV fan with my SG and remove the shock tower assess cover on the passenger side. I can feel hot air coming out. This might be an easy way to get more exhaust venting for anyone that wishes to do that.
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Long time since I have posted anything here, but I noticed the fan running far more than normal here. Now the outside temp was fairly warm, but the most recent day I noticed it, the temps were only around 80-85 degrees out.
I usually don't run the AC in my car unless it is terribly hot out - so when I hear a fan running it stands out to me. It is very obvious that it is coming from the rear seat vent area.
The temps here have taken a dip (highs tomorrow are only about 70-75F), so I will keep an ear out for it to continue. Is this something to be concerned about? It is a 2010 Prius IV with about 32k miles...
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I have a 2004 Prius with about 50K miles. It is driven every day. I recently noticed that the motor doesn't shut off as frequently as it used to when I stop at a light. It then also shows the battery as almost empty (1 bar) on the touch screen. Gas mileage also seems to be a little lower than it used to be. Other than that the car drives fine. Could this be an indication of the battery starting to go?
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2003 with about 140k miles, radiator was replaced a couple years back, recently replaced timing belt (#2) and some valve cover gaskets in advance of a road trip.
On the road trip, used no cooling air, occasionally used heat at night with the roof down. At one point, I thought I heard my engine louder than normal, but decided it was actually machinery nearby.
The next morning, after only about 1 hour of leisurely driving through a civil war park for about an hour, I confirmed that in fact it was my vehicle making the noise.
It was fairly frequent, and basically sounds and feels (hand on air filter) like the blower kicking on, as if to cool the car off.
But the air temp was cool, the car temp was solid and cool, so there wasn't a good reason for this to be happening.
Because I had just had the timing belt & such done, I stopped at a dealer. The engine light came on as I pulled in.
They indicated that they saw a MAF sensor failure, and that while it needed to be replaced, it wasn't a problem to finish my road trip. They indicated the check engine light was related and also ok to drive with. They then lost a lot of credibility when they tried to ask me if perhaps the AM radio was the noise I was hearing...
Despite that, I continued on (had to be somewhere and they said it was ok to drive). The engine light actually went off the next time I filled up, so I decided perhaps that was actually a gas cap pressure issue (saw that once before in my ~6 years of driving the car).
Back at my home Toyota shop, they confirmed the MAF replacement need, and have also suggested spark plugs (fair enough).
But re: the air, they don't believe it sounds 'wrong'. I agree with that- it sounds 'right', as in when the blower kicks on, and I vaguely recall that it was something I heard back when my radiator actually rusted out / failed.
My issue is that it seems to be happening MUCH more frequently than normal.
So while I don't recall hearing it at all over the past couple years or only on very rare occasions under load, or when the radiator failed, it seems to be almost routine now, where at a given stop light (even in just a few miles of driving in town at low speeds), I'll hear the extra noise.
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Just curious-- After several hours of not running, I open the driver door and hear a pump of some kind start up and run under the hood. Runs for a while then stops. How long seems to depend on how long the car has sat there, but about 30 seconds max. What it is?
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2005 f350srw 6.0 ps. If I stomp it for less than about 5 seconds no issues. Passing a car on a 2 lane or pulling a grade with the 5'r (longer sustained high boost over about 5 seconds) it will pull fine until normal driving recurs. Once normal driving recurs, converter locked 5th gear zero boost on accell. If I mash it to down shift it will stumble stumble stumble black smoke then finally boost fine. Let off same no boost issue. It seems to "reset" after about 4 miles/ 4 minutes. Sct canned tunes/ custom tunes don't make a diff. My dd is idp unlimited tow and 40 ficm tune. I cleaned ebp tube and sensor no change. Haven't tested sensor. I'm wondering if it's low fuel pressure related. Fixing to sell truck and want to fix this. Been going on for a year or so. Hasn't always been this way.
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I have a 2004 F-350 diesel. My vent selector is always on defrost so I suspected a broken hose but traced all out and all seem to be fine. I disconnected the line coming from the pump to the tank and no vacuum. The pump doesn't seem to be running but it's hard to tell with the engine noise and vibration. What tells the pump to run and how can I bench check it?
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First it was the whole spark plug debacle. Now it's the "fuel pump module". Story starts a several months back. On a moist day I was headed out and the truck ran very rough, "clunky", like it wasn't getting gas. After 15 miles and a stop truck ran fine. Didn't think much of it and truck ran fine for month or so. I was then away for a couple days and came home to find my truck wouldn't run (started briefly then died). Local mechanic thought it might be a fuel pump issue but then got truck running thinking it might have been a delayed inertia switch in front panel (I had hit a deer a week or 2 prior). Again, not thinking much of it continued to drive truck with no issues for awhile. Then one rainy morning on my way to work the truck was running very rough and "clunky" again. It died several times and finally for good.
After getting it towed to the mechanics, he figured the fuel pump was finally shot. The end to my long story is it was the fuel pump module (luckily a lot cheaper fix than the fuel pump) - half of the housing was gone (corroded away) adn moisture was shorting the pump electronics. Why, if this module is half encased in plastic do the engineers feel the need to encase the other half in metal (appeared to be cast aluminum)??!!????!! Of course it makes sense to have an electrical unit that is mounted underneath the truck where it can collect all the moisture, snow, salt from the road encased in a corrodable metal housing. No no, don't put it all in plastic, just half of the unit. MAKES PERFECT SENSE!! I thought to be and engineer took some sort of brains and common sense. Must be not at Ford. I can't be the only one with this issue and wondering WHY!!! - it must be widespread??
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i have a 2010 Prius II that had a recall in 2013 on the brake boosted. I had a new booster pump put on and now three years later it has brake fade again. I am told from the dealer that it will cost 1800 to repair. So how long does a recall last.
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