Prius (2004-09) :: Brake Failure / Locked Up - Car Wouldn't Go Forward Or Back
Sep 10, 2012
Driving yesterday, (slowly down bumpy gravel road). My 2005 Prius locked up, the red BRAKE and the yellow (ABS) indicator lights came on. The car wouldn't go forward or back. I tried setting the emergency brake then releasing it - nothing. Still couldn't go forward or backward. I shut it off, turned it back on, nothing, tried setting the emergency brake then releasing it - I finally was able to drive, but the indicator lights were still on and when I tried to brake, there was nothing, nothing, nothing, then BAM the brakes grabbed and locked up. (This happened several times in a few blocks as I was cautiously trying to test the car out.)
I parked got out my owners manual which said "STOP, contact Toyota Dealer" so I had my car towed (first time ever for her to be towed) to my mechanic (he's out hunting, so someone else at the shop looked at it.)
The shop called and said it was showing a code of 1247 and said that it was a "malfunction of the brake pedal". They said they cleared the code and the lights went out. Their mechanic is going to take it for a test drive trying several 'braking scenarios'. (they better not wreck my car).
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My low miles (under 50k) 1999 Ranger has a 5-speed manual transmission. One morning, I could not move it. The shift lever shifted, but the gears were locked. No forward, no reverse, and it wouldn't roll in neutral. Eventually, I popped the clutch, and, with a loud BANG! restored itself.
Background: I had rolled the car up tot the curbing in my driveway, so the wheels touched, then shut it off (in gear) and finally set the emergency brake. I'm guessing that this caught the gears in a way that caused the problem.
Yes, it's running just fine now. What happened?
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I was going down the highway at 70mph and came up to a toll booth when the brake pedal went to the floor and the car wouldn't stop. I hit the pedal hard and the car stopped in a very jerky manner as if the abs was initiated. I looked at the dash and the ABS, (!), and brake lights were illuminated. I turned the car off and then on again and the lights were off and the brakes worked normally again.
The Toyota dealer in CT said the weak battery was causing an under-voltage at the stroke sensor and replaced the battery. They told me if I lost my brakes again (!) I should bring it back for a new stroke sensor. In hindsight, I should have just told them to go ahead and replace the sensor. Two days later, driving down Florida route 301 in the rain, a stoplight went from yellow to red in about 3 seconds so I hit the pedal hard. The back brakes immediately locked up, the front wheels kept rolling, the car swerved and slid through the red light intersection sideways.
I counter steered and slid between two cars at the other red light, on the wrong side of the road as I straightened out. The car swerved and slid sideways again in the other direction and then spun around so I finally wound up in the correct lane, and I drove off like nothing happened. I was doing maybe 35-40 at the time and it's a miracle no one got hurt. Again I look down and see the lights illuminated. I cycled the power switch as before, and again the problem went away.
About an hour later the problem came back and this time no amount of power cycling will clear it. Basically what I'm understanding now is that it's the regenerative side that doesn't work with the bad sensor. The hydraulics kick in at around the last 10% of the pedal so the car will still stop, but I have to floor the pedal and that makes the car think your trying to lock up the wheels so it initiates the ABS system which makes stopping jerky and unpredictable. BEWARE the stoke sensor!!! What a dangerous design!! The dealer has the car now...
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I bought a 2007 Prius 2 months ago and I noticed that when I stop at a stop light and engage the parking/emergency brake while keeping it in Drive gear the car creeps forward. I have more experience with manual cars where when you pull the emergency brake it locks the car and prevents it from rolling forward or back despite the car being still in gear, so I'm curious to know whether this is a normal thing with a Prius and pushing the P button in addition to the emergency brake at a stop light with a slight incline is necessary. I find that this two step process of disengaging the E break and putting the car back in Drive makes you slow to take off. But what I want to know if this normal with a Prius?
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2004 prius. I change the brakes on various cars all the time, and never had this problem. After I changed both sides, I started the car, and saw 4 lights:
- Red brake light
- The yellow exclamation light
- ABS light
- VSC light
The car now stops funny, and reading the service manual, it says that if there's a failure detected, that it will revert back to very basic braking (no abs, only fronts, etc..)... As I was exiting off the fwy, I realized this when one of my front wheels locked up, even and I was not stopping very well. Scared the crap out of me.
In any case, I can't see what I may have done which would cause a failure. The only thing I could think of is to bleed the brakes again, but I did this and think it's ok. Is there anything else I can check or is this something I have to get serviced? I saw another thread where they suspected the actuator, but it is somewhat a coincidence that it would go bad after I replace the pads? I'm not sure how the regenerative brakes works on a prius, and whether there's anything I could visually inspect to see if I bumped something???
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My 2004 Lariat with 110,000 miles has a shudder feeling when I back up or go forward in low. This only happens when I first take off, as far as I can tell. Would this be transmission clutches slipping or rear end clutches slipping, or something else? What test can I do to isolate the problem?
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My son called me today to pick him up. His 98 S10 would shift into gear but wouldn't go forward or into reverse. New clutch 6 months ago, hoping something simple like low gear oil or worse?
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Today I stopped at the post office to check my mail. I put the car in park and didn't shut off the engine - this is what I always do. When I returned a few moments later the car would not go into reverse (this was after releasing the parking brake) and the traction control symbol came on. The car would go into drive but that didn't work much as I was up against a hill (or almost against it). Shutting the car off and turning it on again solved the problem. The parking space was badly potholed; I'm assuming I had less than full contact on one wheel which caused the traction control to kick in which prevented reverse from engaging. And to be clear - it's not that it went into reverse but didn't go anywhere; reverse simply wouldn't engage (I did not try neutral),
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I have been noticing a squeaking sound lately, what it might be. I notice it most when parked in the garage and I am getting out of the car (obviously with the car in Park). It seems to happen when the car rolls slightly, forward and back against. I tried to take a video to capture the sound. The car was parked and shut off, and I was pushing the car forward and back to recreate the sound. The sound SEEMS to come from the front (maybe the right front), but it is not easy to tell.
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I have a '90 Bonneville SSE and after coming to a stop at a red light on the highway, when the light turned green the car wouldn't move forward. There were no odd noises, the car had been in cruise control and there had been no problems up to that point. The car shifted crisply, there was no obvious slippage or hesitation going into gear.
I can feel the car engage in both drive and reverse, but it won't move at all.
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I keep getting the C1344 and all the lights. I checked and changed the rear shoes and the light keeps coming back, although not immediately. It takes just a little while.
I didn't notice any signs of leaking fluid, though I was able to squeeze the LH wheel cylinder in pretty easily by squeezing on the top of the shoes. The drums were not scored and were in spec so I didn't turn them. I never cracked any brake lines loose.
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I started my 05 prius this morning, and it starts up and is running in normal time. But there's a constant long beep tone that doesn't shut off and after it starts it shoves the break pedal back out while my foot is still trying to keep it depressed. There's a brake light that is on after, but no error icon on the display. I didn't try driving it to see if it lets me, because of something possibly wrong with the brakes. What might cause this?
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I drove my 2005 Prius 2 hours and parked it for 5 hours. No problems on the trip down. I got back in it and it started up just fine. I was sitting in the parking lot with my foot on the brake (hadn't moved yet) and the following occurred:
The brake pedal seemed to push back on my foot
The red exclamation point illuminated
The yellow exclamation point illuminated
The ABS light illuminated
The VSC light illuminated
The red parking brake light illuminated (not shown)
All of these lights point to the skid ECU. It seems like my skid ECU is toast or something called the ABS & BA & TRAC & VSC Actuator is an issue (never heard of it but I see it connected to the skid ECU). I did a visual check of what I could and everything seemed in order. I pulled a bunch of fuses and I didn't notice any that were blown. (I didn't pull them all but will tomorrow)
After not finding anything, I drove back home. As expected, I had no regen but the bigger problem was that I had no power assist on the brakes. A few times I actually did skid and the car brakes really bad without regen or power assist. If it was raining or snowing I could definitely see a hazardous situation.
I'm kind of at a loss here. Tomorrow I'll pull the kick panel down and see if the skid ECU is getting power but I can't think of anything else that would cause this situation.
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I have been getting increased noise coming from the back of my car for the past month. So I jacked up the car and spun the tires and heard grinding noises in the rear right. I have a 2012 ToyotaPrius plug-in with 33,000 miles. When driving the car around 40 miles an hour there would be a howling sound coming from the back of the car regardless of the type of pavement I was driving on.
So I took it to the dealer today and they had it up on the rack in about an hour later they came to me and said it needed new tires and it would be about $700 and that this was likely causing the noise. I said that there was no way that it was the tires so I went and showed the mechanic how old the sound was coming out of the back right wheel. He listened with his stethoscope on the wheel bearings and said that he did hear some noise in there but still thought it was the tires.
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What should the idle be at for a 2004 f150 fx4. When I first start the stuck it jumps to about 1200 or so and then after a few seconds settles at about 500 and stays there at all stops. It seems to be smooth but when I let go of the brake, the truck doesn't really want to move forward. It is a crew cab so I know there is some weight there. If anything is wrong, what are some possible fixes.
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I think this is dangerous. Several times I've stopped and hit the turn off button and had the car creep forward when I actually didn't shut off the engine. I had taken my old 07 Prius to the dealer to see if they could fix this and they said they couldn't.
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I've got a 2004 Prius and I recently had some body repair done which included having the cloth interior upgraded to leather.
When I picked up my Prius from the shop, the key fob wouldn't work when it was in my pocket. I had to push the unlock key to open the door. Then when I tried to start the car w/ the key in my pocket, it wouldn't start so I had to put the key into the dash to get the car started.
Once I got home, I figured the battery was dead so I replaced it and tried again and got the same results. Then I went around the car testing the passenger door and truck and it's the same thing, it won't unlock w/out pushing the button on the key fob.
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We recently purchased a 2008 RX350 with 61,000 miles. We had a potentially dangerous brake failure when the brake booster unit failed. It was an expensive repair ($1400.) and Lexus has refused to stand behind the product.
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So I just installed my centric hubs that allow you to use 4x4it rotors. Along with some ebc rotors and pads front and rear. Well the "gear" that gives the signal to the wheel sensor is off center so now my abs and brake light are on cause it keeps losing the signal (checked with a solas pro). How well did they stand behind their product. Thought I should add they are still on my truck because my old rotors and wheel bearings were totally fried.
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I have a 2006 Pri with 194,000 miles on it that has been dead reliable & owes me nothing really, now developing a serious problem. Only when it is below about 10 deg F I will get total failure of the power braking system on or shortly after startup Has happened on 3 days this winter. ABS light, Brake warning, continuous high pitched beep (very annoying warning the driver of immanent death!
When this happens I get almost no movement on the brake pedal. It's rock hard & acts pretty much like loosing power brakes on any car (ie. you will eventually stop, but not a safe condition). There is no transition to this condition. It's either "everything normal" or total failure. Brake fluid reads half way between min & max and looks clean, no sign of moisture, but has never been flushed.
The last time it happened I was leaving work, couldn't swap cars... so I drove straight to the dealer (white knuckled). Dealer calls the next day saying it's the Brake Actuator needing replacement. I told them I wasn't spending that & to look again for a cheaper problem like Fluid, 12v battery, Relay...
No dice. They confirm it's the actuator.
The code they read is C1256. They "checked resistance at actuator pins & found high resistance at pins 1&2." I'm thinking about just topping up the fluid a bit more, or getting the fluid flushed & changed, or changing the 12v battery (I need to check voltage on next cold morning), or just not driving it at those temps & hoping it doesn't get worse.
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My Prius engine wouldn't shut off when the button was pushed. The Toyota dealer was clueless.
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