Prius (2004-09) :: Battery Has Been Draining Quite Fast
Sep 27, 2011
Just bought a 2006 Prius, ironically only has 31,000 km on it.
Recently, mostly today, i noticed the battery has been draining quite fast. I was at 2 bars from full(or 3? whatever is pre "green") and probably 5-10min later i was 2 bars and the gas engine was running. Whatever seemed odd, maybe the traffic was a little slower today.
However i started driving 80kph and it took over 5 minutes for the car , without battery running, to bump from 5 bars up to 6. The electric motor was literally not driving the whole time, it was strictly gas the whole 5 min.
I was also considering taking this car for an inspection at the dealer just to ensure everything is okay before winter hits.
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The car's battery is draining too fast even after jump starting it. Jump started it today morning at 9. Shut off car at 10, and the car wouldnt start. No lights or accessories functioning. Alternator seems to be working. But still the battery is completely dead soon after. What is causing this?
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I've been having an issue with my 2008 for the last several months and was wondering if this is a common problem, or unique to my vehicle.
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We have 2 Priuses, and our older one has started draining battery quickly. It's my husband's primary commute vehicle and we're wondering if it's age related. We have had to do nothing except replace the regular battery once a few years ago. I spoke with a friend who has the same model year as us and she said they recently had to replace one of the hybrid cells (pardon me if this isn't the right terminology, we're not car people).
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I have had this happen before (and drove right to the dealer but it was fine when I got there) and it happened again today. Its a very hot day and I had forgot to turn off my AC and radio when I shut the car down. So I started it up put it in drive (or reverse) and it would just jump to neutral and the battery was drained (purple lines) because this had happened before I knew that if I held it in place and turned off the AC I could drive and be fine in a few minutes and that's what happened. Is it just because on a hot day it drains the battery too fast. Its a 2008 Prius with no other problems but this. Its just an annoying thing that makes me crazy.
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Code says P1121 Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Range/Performance Problem. I heard that was wrong and its really coolant control valve? The battery drains fast and the can runs like crap. Would this code be doing that to the car?
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I am new to the R32 but I have a 2nd owner 60k 2004. The battery keeps draining, put the new one in and it was good for a day. If you jump it, it will work for about 2days and then it is drained down to 3 to 4 volts. No lights or readout on gauges. I am stumped.
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I Have a 2010 Prius With Solar Panel, when i drive the battery will charge up to 6 or 7 bars and quickly it drope down to 3 bars bar. i like to know is this normal
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I have replaced the battery and determined that with the key turned off and doors unlocked the battery drain settles down to 130 milliamp after 60 seconds. If you lock the doors it settles down to the expected 20 milliamps after 60 seconds. Any description of what functions are turned off by locking the doors?
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So here's the deal my '02 prius' traction battery is dying really fast. But here's the thing, it will charge fully and be fine for a few months and then one day Its like the battery says, "now I don't want to play anymore." and dies really fast and is a pain to charge even a little bit. I can even drive to work (at least half an hour away) and I can get to freeway speeds and charging 95% of the way and it will still be at a very low charge. Then after a while it will charge all the time while staying fully charged. I'm eventually going to replace the battery anyway but wanted to know if it sounded like something else, too.
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Here's whats going on. Battery goes from full charge to dead and back very fast. Assuming its a battery issue I removed the battery and volt metered every cell
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On page 93 of the Prius PHV Owners Manual, under the heading "Capacity reduction of the hybrid battery (traction battery)" is the following language:
"By observing the following precautions, battery charge decline can be suppressed."
"Avoid driving near the top speed for EV driving ( --P.40)"
To me this says don't drive EV 60 MPH, don't drive EV 55 MPH, maybe 50 MPH is OK is not uphill, probably 45 MPH is OK.
The manual also says "Also, if the hybrid battery (traction battery) capacity reduces, the EV driving range decreases. However, vehicle performance does not significantly become worse."
I wonder if this is a statement that the warranty will not cover capacity decline?
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Changed inverter coolant last weekend. Was a snap. Used bleed screw with vinyl tube back into fill tank to bleed off any excess air. Added just as much as I removed. No issues. Took about 15 minutes total. Engine coolant not going so smoothly. I was only able to get 2.9 qts out. Reservoir is still full. Didn't drain that. Started by putting car in inspection mode. Let engine run until it was 180 degrees (using scan tool to read coolant temp). While engine running, turned on heat to get coolant flowing through heater core.
Turned car off. Opened drain plug behind engine. Got about 2 qts out of that. When that was done, radiator level had dropped too. Next, opened up yellow drain plug on back of radiator on drivers side. Got about 2.9 qts out of that.
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I just bought a 2008 BMW 535ia. I owned it four days before the battery died. I went back to the dealer I bought from and he told me that it was my fault -- I didn't drive the car enough. Said due to "advanced electronics" car has to be driven for at least 30 minutes each and every time other wise battery will continue to drain.
I work at home so I only drive the car three or four days a week,mostly for a 10 minute trip to town. I'm afraid to take this car anywhere. For me, luxury now means having a car that you know will start.
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I own an 89 jag xj6. Something seems to be draining the battery. It can start fine in the evening but by the next morning its dead. If it sets too long its completely dead.. nothing... The alternator appears to be charging, after running it awhile it will start again. I put a new battery in it several months ago. The former owner said something about it maybe being a switch of some sort that has something to do with the climate control system?
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I am having these problems on a 98 1.8T. The car starts and runs fine. Something is also draining the battery. From what I read it could be the CCM. Where to start to looking for the problem?
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something is causing the battery to go dead after the van sits for several hours. The battery isn't the problem, that has been replaced with a battery we know is good and then 4 to 6 hours later the battery is totally dead. what this could be?
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I have replaced the alternator and battery has good clean connections and cables. I have pulled the fuses for the interior lights and radio and alarm and it still keeps dying. The battery will be dead randomly could be overnight could be a few days...
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my wife now drives what was originally my 2005 Honda Civic from '05-'10. In the last 3 or so years since she's been driving it, the Civic has developed a tendency to die on her at inopportune times. A quick jump always fixes the problem but I never, ever had this problem myself when I was driving it and I've had the battery tested at AutoZone twice with both techs telling me the battery was in great shape with cranking amps well above its rating. I've offered to just buy a new battery and eliminate the issue but the "it's fine" report from AZ has me puzzled.
I have noticed that corrosion tends to build up on her positive battery terminal very quickly and I suspect she's getting some drain due to that but I'm stymied as to why it happens. The only thing (and its a stretch) that I can think of is she has a habit that her father taught her of cranking the heat, the defroster AND the A/C in her car when it's cold out. Normally I wouldn't think this would make a difference but I wonder if there is somehow condensation developing in that tiny little Civic engine bay as a result?
I've asked her not to do it and see if the situation improves but old habits die hard. The battery does tend to come up dead (of course) more in the winter but it's not an exclusively cold weather situation. Anyway, after jumping her car in single digits this morning before dawn I am ready to admit defeat and just get a new battery but figured I'd throw it out to the many voices here.
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We have a 2005 Accord. The radio started to malfunction over a year ago. The clock display and everything just stopped working. Disconnecting the negative battery cable would reset it but then it would stop working again a short time after. Sometimes with the car off, you can hear the radio making a sound, like it's trying to eject a CD. Whatever its doing, its draining the battery.
I have to jump the car about once a week. I called the dealer and they said the radios for this year and model are known to be faulty but the fix is expensive and we cannot afford it. I'm pretty handy but not so much with stereo/ electronics. If there is a fix out there, I am willing to try it.
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I have a megaphone that I installed a while ago but I connected it straight to the battery. I noticed that it was draining my battery so I had to disconnect it. Now I am trying to figure out how i should connect this megaphone to my car without it draining the battery, when I am not using it.
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