Prius (2004-09) :: Any Way Of Getting Air Out Of Coolant System?
Mar 27, 2015
I just replaced the coolant control valve. I'm hearing alot of coolant movement when I cut the car off now. I am guessing its air in the system. What is the easiest way of getting air out of the system?
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My original intention was to replace the engine oil in the car. I was in a hurry(yes....I know) I could not find the oil drain plug. I did find a large bolt which turned out to be a drain plug for the inverter coolant instead. The instant the fluid drained from the car, I knew it was not engine oil. I did not know the drained fluid was inverter coolant. It had the color of a transmission fluid but significantly less viscous.
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Actually 2 very similar questions about my Prius 2007.
1. My water pump was replaced by a dealer due to failure some half a year ago at 95,000 miles. Yesterday, after oil change (98,000), I was told it is recommended to replace engine coolant. Does this sound right? Don't they change coolant when replacing the pump?!
2. Identical question about HV pump. It was replaced at 80,000. Now they recommend do change the coolant for hybrid system. Don't they have to do it when replacing the pump?
I want to do everything necessary to maintain the car. But don't want to spend money for something that is not needed.
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I recently purchased an 04 Excursion XLT with a 6.0. I want to do an EGR delete and install a coolant filter system to address the oil cooler issue. After doing some research I am confused on which coolant filtration system is best. I have looked IPR's setup as well as sinister diesel's system. It seems that IPR's system would filter more coolant however I'm not sure if it is better than the other systems on the market. Are there any other systems that I should look into?
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I just did a pressure check on the cooling system on my 04 6 liter. It reached 16lbs towing an enclosed trailer and into a strong head wind. I was just wondering what's the Normal pressure suppose to be, or is there a Normal pressure. I'm using the new style cap with the larger spring in it and it didn't kick any coolant out.
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1,500 miles ago my car had it's 30k service. Today, i got "CHECK...". At home this evening i checked the inverter coolant reservoir, it was empty. I've added 1L of de-ionised water (which got it to full, and i see turbulence in the fluid) until i can get the correct fluid.
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Is it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
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Just finished a drain and fill on my 2007 Prius; I've done several cycles of bleeding the air out of the system involving: engaging the coolant heat storage tank pump, squeezing the hoses, opening bleeder valve, running the engine for extended periods of time, but the check engine light is still on. My question is will it go off on its own, or do I have to clear/reset a diagnostic trouble code. I read that disconnecting the connector to the coolant heat storage tank (which I did per the repair manual instructions) may cause a check engine light to appear. I also read that having significant air still in the coolant system will also cause the check engine light to appear.
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My 2007 has 160k miles and at just over 100k I had toyota change all the fluids. That was about 3 or 4 months ago, it's a taxi. I started noticing the heat was only hot above 83, and sometimes not even hot at high. I thought I was out of fluid so I added to the overflow not wanting to open the cap on a hot motor. It didnt take much, but made the heat come back on above 80 degrees so I did nothing else.
Last night I had no heat again after driving about 200 miles. The heat came back after turning it off for a few minutes, but I stopped at a gas station anyway when I got off the freeway.
The overflow was full. It was also cold. So were the radiator hoses, but not what looked like power steering hoses next to it.
I check that belt pulley was spinning when the engine was running, it was. It a new belt put on by dealer.
The car doesn't show any signs of overheating, and is driven 300 or more miles a day in town and freeway. The motor was of course hot, but not overly so. None of the connected components were hot like I would expect if was overheating.
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So, the sideways coolant tank in the engine compartment, not the one next to the grill, but the one that is sort of between the air filter box and that shiny metal square
I have always thought that tank was slightly low, but it has a seam just about where the full line is, so I was never sure....finally about three weeks ago, I worked up my courage and put a few ounces of coolant in that tank. THEN it was up to the full line.
So, a few weeks after adding the coolant, I had the water pump recall done. Now the coolant level is back down to where it was before I added....so I am assuming that the correct level is just below that seam that seals the top of the plastic tank to the bottom part of the tank.
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I have a coolant leak that appears on the outside of the transmission. The Toyota dealer tells me it is an O ring between the transmission and the engine, and this part is not individually replaceable. The dealer says there is a lot of rust in the transmission, which is what caused the problem, and they want $1800 to replace the transmission with a used (125K miles) one.
The Prius is a 2004 model with 100K miles on it.
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Changed inverter coolant last weekend. Was a snap. Used bleed screw with vinyl tube back into fill tank to bleed off any excess air. Added just as much as I removed. No issues. Took about 15 minutes total. Engine coolant not going so smoothly. I was only able to get 2.9 qts out. Reservoir is still full. Didn't drain that. Started by putting car in inspection mode. Let engine run until it was 180 degrees (using scan tool to read coolant temp). While engine running, turned on heat to get coolant flowing through heater core.
Turned car off. Opened drain plug behind engine. Got about 2 qts out of that. When that was done, radiator level had dropped too. Next, opened up yellow drain plug on back of radiator on drivers side. Got about 2.9 qts out of that.
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I am getting a slow coolant drip from my inverter . The very slow leak appears on the left side of inverter when facing the front of car with hood open . The connection point alum tube to coolant resevoir black rubber tube. The inverter coolant connection reservoir tube side is damp to the touch and has visible red goop buildup.......
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A bit over a week ago, I posted about a major coolant "spew" in my shed.
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Just woken up for the 8th time to the sound of my Prius alarm system sounding. It's an EU prius with the default alarm in it and every time it goes in for a service I tell them about the problem. They tell me they have lowered the activation threshold. I never notice any improvement.
A few questions
1. Is there any adjustable 'activation threshold' on the prius alarm system or are they just fobbing me off?
2. I have pro-tem half solved the problem by removing the fuse that leads to the horn. However a second siren still sounds despite the horn not souding. Where is this siren speaker located as I intend to disconnect that too.
A few observations.
1. It is almost impossible to get the alarm to go off deliberty, such as by waving hands around inside the veh, trying door handles, rocking the veh, hitting the glass, etc. For that reason, I am not sure I believe therefore that it is an intermittent sensor issue as I have "banged every door" so-to-speak.
2. I have checked the battery level and while all the readings are a bit on the low side, ultimately all the results are within the recommended thresholds as defined elsewehre on this site. With that said the car is 4 years old, could the battery be malfunctioning in other ways?
3. Pressing the button under the steering column does not affect whether the alarm activates or not.
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I got my oil changed and was told my coolant reservior is cracked and leaking. I have been driving 4,000 miles since then and not known or noticed anything until informed today.
Is this a high priority fix? I'm not sure exactly what it is but my car hasn't showed any signs of overheating. Also what is an estimate of price for parts and labor?
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What is the to cause to check engine light go off. I will take my car to auto zone tomorrow morning to hopefully get a code and see if I can fix it myself... if not, then I am going to have to go to the dealership.
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Prius 2009 inverter coolant pump failure 51,300 miles....
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Back in February, received a light and discovered that the inverter coolant reservoir was empty. I refilled the reservoir and cleared the code. Today, only 3 months later, the same thing happened. I don't see any wet hoses, puddles, or obvious signs of leakage. Where all my coolant is going? What steps should I use to properly troubleshoot...
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My 2006 Prius with 120k miles has coolant seeping around the water pump. I called around to get quotes on replacement cost, but one place said the thermostat should be replaced at the same time, while the other said it shouldn't. (BTW, I will have the belt replaced at the same time).
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My 07 has pretty low miles but is going on 4+ years so I thought I would change the ENGINE coolant. Reading how many posters have struggled with this I thought I would be a smart guy and buy an Airlift which I have used before back in the day on strictly American cars if memory serves.
I had hoped to just hook the airlift up and suck the bulk of the coolant right out without opening any petcocks. Yeah right... That resulted in about 1/2 pint of pink foam and collapsed hoses.
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