Prius (2004-09) :: Air Condition Not Working At 86F
Jul 11, 2010
I bought this 2004 Prius in 2010 with 104K miles. Now at 117K. When outside temp goes to 86 F or above, the a/c blows warm air. If I stop A/C for a while, and restart it, it will blow some "cold" air for 10 seconds, then back to "warm" again. at below 82F it seems work normally, although I never felt "cold" enough like my other car Lexus LS 400 1998.
My mechanics found (using his diagnostic device) that the thermometer temp measure indicate as 28F when outside was at 90F. He can not figure it out. Is it possible that temp sensor (thermometer) gone bad? Or it is just a loose connection which might cause the resistance value change? He added enough refrigerate fluid for the car.
I noticed in glove box there are evidence of glue used. I suspect that the car had some body damage on right side and being fixed.
Anyway, the a/c problem so far happens consistently at around this temp. I have no any other problem on this beautiful car.
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My Prius air condition blows hot air sometimes, sometimes it works fine, warm weather seems to increase the problem. Took it to the dealer, they couldn't duplicate problem, said it was fine, but it is obviously not. Where should I start, don't like the replace parts till we figure it out thing. Don't think its the compressor b/c sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Fan is working fine.
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I have a 2006 Saturn Ion 3. The air conditioner had been less cold for about a week and yesterday it stopped working completely. I tried filling the Freon, but it was not low. What are some other causes?
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I have an 08 Camry that appears to be having the problems associated with the ABS module (intermittent A/C, speedometer not working, etc.).
I've picked up a module/pump from a junkyard. Excuse my ignorance, but the module itself (black portion), does not have any fluid circulating through it? If I'm just swapping that, there is no need to bleed the ABS or perform any programming?
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i just bought my 2nd hand 2009 corolla recently and i notice that my door remote is not working if the engine is in running condition.
let say i park my car in front of the mini store to buy something, i don't want to shut off the engine so that the inside of the car is still cold when i comeback after a few minutes. (by the way, i am here in saudi arabia...gasoline here are much cheaper that everywhere else).
the problem is, when i use my remote to lock the door...it wont work...unlike my previous cars, door remotes are working even the engine is on or off...
is there any settings from the computer or do i just have to do something from the inside of the car..
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I have a 2002 prius with 130,000 miles on her, and so far so good except for a small problem for the last three months, I get an intermittent P0171 code. I know it means Lean Condition in Bank 1. However, I can run the car for weeks without it coming on. If I go full throttle getting onto the highway for example it may come on, but even then its not all the time. Not sure why only full throttle. But if I drive her gently, I will never see the CEL at all.
Fuel economy is around the usual for me at 46-49 mpg with average speeds of 75-85 mph. I don't think its vacuum related.
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recently I change my stock stereo to an after market one n now mfd screen as the check air condition connection message on it so did some research n found out I have to change it out so went to a local yard and bought one and same message, changed it out for another one same thing so about five trys later so same thing! Is it possible that all those screen were broken or is there another problem goin on?
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This can be heard at low speed. two to three bars on the blower speed indicator. It sound like running water. It is not the air conditioner when the compressor in on.
I can not listen to the radio all the time..... when it is peace time, radio is turned off. It sounds like the bearing is going. Had it looked at and was told that it is normal. The DC motor is suppose to be quiet?
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So I have been told I need to have the transmission fluid changed in my GX470 by the dealer. They have said that off and on when I take it in for an oil change or some other services since 60K miles. I have never felt a difference in the transmission performance and have had no 'quirks' with it like I have had with other cars when the trans fluid is nearing the end of its useful life.
So I am concerned that since it is a 'sealed' unit that has no dipstick to check the fluid condition, they have a 'safe' way to tell me I need an expensive service when I really do not.
I am not afraid to work on my cars (I used to work on my cars including my built up rotary with a street port) but have just been too busy to do that stuff for the past 15+ years and am starting to get back into maintaining my own cars again.
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2011 Prius with 30,000
At the first start of day when I pressed on brake pedal and got the green light on power button as usual I pressed power button and never got ready condition, trying to figure out what is happening I have had this condition occur almost every morning (outside air temp around 40 degrees F) also when I went to train station to pick up my daughter I shut off for about ten minutes and it happened again.
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In the 30,000 miles I have driven my Gen III, it has gone through three different sets of tires. Driving conditions during this entire time have been identical, and temperatures have been fairly constant. Therefore, I think my fuel economy data can be a good example of the impact that tire selection can have on your fuel economy.
I currently have 2400 miles on the Michelin Energy Saver A/S. These are the MPG stats, manually calculated.
Highest: 53.4
Average: 48.2
Lowest: 45.0
Standard Deviation: 2.4
In the 14,000 miles I had the Michelin Primacy MXV4, these were the mpg stats:
Highest: 50.1
Average: 42.7
Lowest: 37.0
Standard Deviation: 2.6
(I may be missing 2-3 tanks, so this is probably 90% of the fill-ups during the time in which I had the Primacy MXV4.)
Lastly, in the 14,000 miles that I had the OE Yokohama Avid S33d Tires, these were the MPG stats.
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2006 f-150 with a 4.6L. Its got 175k on the clock and ran like a sewing machine despite little maintenance other than oil changes. Recently it started running like crap; no power and missing so he borrowed a scanner and it was giving multiple codes. Here's what we have done so far, not necessarily in this order :
1.Checked for vac leaks with carb cleaner (this can be tough as engine runs crappy and hard to detect minor changes in rpms while your under the hood) no leaks detected yet
2. Changed the plugs, all looked good except for one which was heavily fouled and the electrode ate away mostly, I wasnt there and he doesnt remember which one but have a suspicion, more on that in a min
3. Changed most of the COPs and checked them all with a spark tester, all are firing.
4.Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner
5. Checked back pressure on the exhaust by removing an upstream o2 sensor and holding a plastic fitting hooked to a pressure gage long enough to get a reading, about 1 lb idling to maybe 2 max when engine is reved, gage is not the best and fluctuates a 1/2 lb or so. Exhaust does not smell of rotten eggs.
6. Changed the fuel filter, it was terrible
7. Ran a bottle of Seafoam in the tank
8. Took the throttle body and egr valve off and checked for carbon stoppage, the holes in the egr were not blocked
9. checked the PVC valve and line and both elbows
7. checked the injector connectors with a noid light for signal, they all flash, checked the injectors them selves with a multimeter set for ohms, all about from 13.5-14.5. This should mean they arent fried but could they still be stopped up? They all sound like they are pumping when you listen with a mechanics stethoscope
9. Changed all 4 o2 sensors as this had never been done anyway
10. Compression check on cylinders, all within 10% of each other at about 180 lbs. When we pulled the plugs they all looked good except for # 7 which was heavily fouled ( I suspect the same on the original plugs) and again with a bad electrode, the part coming out of the porcelin. Intrestingly, this was an autolite plug, the rest were motorcraft, I hoped this was somehow just a bad plug but no change with a new MC plug
11. Changed the injector on #7
The scanner reads lean condition on banks 1 and 2 and random misfires on #4 and # 7 still. Per a troubleshooting tip online, we sprayed some carb cleaner in a small vac line coming off the manifold to induce a rich condition and the scanner showed the o2 sensors go to .900 which is what they are supposed to do per the guide. This means they are functioning correctly and a bonafide lean condition exists. I am leaning towards a vacuum leak around the plastic manifold under the aluminum one, maybe the gaskets but would like to rule out the egr valve, could it be the culprit?
I have even considered the possibility that the PCM is bad, though not likely. I have read to detect a vac leak you can hook the scanner up and spray the carb cleaner around on the manifold and lines with the scanner hooked up watching the scanner PID for the o2 sensors and when they detect the cleaner, they will hit that .800-1.0 meaning the engine sucked the cleaner in and you have found your leak. The exhaust smells rich. If it is a vac leak, you would think it should be a massive leak and not hard to detect, as crappy as the truck runs. I have searched the forums for days and exhausted about all I know to do.
Most important note: early on I suspected low fuel pressure as a possibility; with no schrader valve on the fuel rail and no easy spot to T into the system, we were scratching our heads how were gonna measure psi but the scanner reads absolute fuel rail pressure, gives about 40-43 psi. I hope the scanner is telling us what we need to know there, would prefer a mechanical gauge on the rail!
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2006 F150 4.2 fuel issue? I get an intermitent no start condition and no obd codes. Then I discover that it really isn't intermittent, it only occurs after I have been running the engine. It will not start for at least 5-10 minutes after I have driven a few miles and shut the engine off. So if I wait 5-10 minutes then she starts and runs just fine. I played with this in the driveway to recreate this condition so I could determine if I had a spark or fuel issue (I have spark during no start). I found that 50% of the time I could start it right back up immediately after I shut the engine off. But if I shut it off right away again, then I got the no start condition again and have to wait another 5-10 minutes.
Now with cold engine I can start the motor over and over. To fix this I read forum after forum, which led me to decide that I had a fuel pump driver problem (module) located on back axle under spare tire. I replaced this and restarted the engine many times. The problem seemed to be gone but this only lasted about 30 minutes. Then it would not start at all and still no codes. I plugged my old module back in and the truck fired right up. So I decided I needed to (flash) pcm for new part but that changes nothing. Still no start with new module and runs with old module. I also replaced relay in fuse panel.
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Prius 2004 with 86K miles. My brake led light on the driver side stopped working completely the other day. For some time now (6 months) i knew the top led of the brake light was not working, but yesterday I discovered that the whole led is failing. tail and parking light on the same assembly are working fine. I pulled off the plastic door inside the trunk and I checked connections for faulty ones but everything was tight in its place. Is there anything else I can do before preparing to go to the "butcher" dealer?
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Driving home tonight...noticed SOC was PINK...2 to 1 bars. First thought was the HV FAN...!
I JUST did the HV fan maintenance the other day and I'm certain I buttoned everything back up correctly..... There are only 2 connections to the fan that I unhooked and then rehooked back up...... I'll re-open tomorrow to check for loose connections.
Is this symptomatic of the fan not working? and Is there any way I can test the fan?
I've driven the car for about 200 miles in the 4 days since the maintenance but I rarely keep eye on SOC so I'm not certain what it's been reporting thru that period...Just looked tonight for some reason. Maintenance light has been on for awhile before I performed this ....but I'm guessing that's just Oil change needing to be done.
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At the moment my remote will not lock or unlock the vehicle, although the indicator light on the remote lights up on key press. ( this vehicle is not equipped with sks ).
This is a brand new key Fob (under a month old) as I had the old one replaced under warranty. I can still start the vehicle by placing the remote in the dash as usual, only the buttons don't work. It worked perfectly fine this morning, so I am not sure what the deal is.
Recently replaced:
-Key Fob itself ( about a month ago )
-12 v battery ( about 4 months ago )
- combination meter ( about a month ago )
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Looking for the answer to this question. This could possibly save me some money.
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OK I think my 2004 Prius is haunted.
Last week both brake lights (just the upper, red part) stopped working.
A day later the right/passenger side light came back on.
Then the next day, the left/driver side light resumed working too.
Today both went out again.
Then the right side came back on.
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Got some bad news about the main display in my 2004 Prius from dealer yesterday. The display unit has been working intermittently as of late and after taking a look at it the dealer said it needed replacing.
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I have prius 2007 of the Japanese make (140k miles). Yesterday, my keyless fob stopped working. I couldn't use it lock/unlock my car; however, it is starting the car just fine. I replaced the batteries on the fob but no avail. The small red light on the fob is shining like normal. There is no abnormal behavior in the car otherwise. What should I check?
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A week ago my aux input stopped working (ipod plugged in but won't show up as an option on the audio console).
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