Prius (2004-09) :: After Car Wash All Lights Came On - Only Goes In Neutral Or Park
May 1, 2015
Have read threads on car wash issues but have only had the dreaded red triangle flash with no problems as a result. Tuesday, however, got ALL the lights on and now car will not go past warm up phase and only goes in neutral or park. Lights come on, clock reads correct time, and radio works. Tried a jump to aux battery, a reset of the main hybrid battery and finally had my baby towed to the local dealer. 2 days later they are telling me the transmission needs to be replaced. They say I have an irreparable short in the transmission and the replacement is $5000. With no issues with transmission and only two bars magenta in color on the battery level showing is this a transmission issue or a battery issue. Can't say I have had great luck with the local dealer on previous maintenance so my confidence is not high. Love my girl but unsure whether the car is worth this repair at 8 years old and 183,000 on the odometer.
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After getting on the highway, the red triangle of death, the amber ABS and the VSC lights came on, and little exclamation point came on on millage/audio screen, while battery power went down from high blue to one blue bar. Pulled car over to parking lot, and put in park. After putting it in park, the car would not go out of neutral, but the power still worked.
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The car is a 2005 Prius II hatchback @ 70,000 miles. I like my local garage and they have a good reputation but bad things keep happening. I'm ready to lose my temper but I don't want to. Here's the summary:
3 weeks ago - Started getting the red triangle of death. Had trouble starting. Finally, the car would start, but only go into park or neutral. Towed to garage. Garage put in a new 12 V battery. The car drove away from the garage nicely.
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Is there a bulb that lights up the shifter position on an auto transmission (floor shifter)? IF so... I have 2 that need it done but I can't find where the bulb is since it doesn't lite up any more.
The vehicles are -
1995 Geo Prizm automatic
1998 Corolla automatic
Both need to have the bulb that lites up the Park, Neutral, Drive positions of an automatic floor shifter center console. Both are similar but I cannot for the life of me find this light bulb to replace it.
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I have a Gen II 2009 Prius with 31K miles on it. I love my Prius and until now had no issues with it. Last Saturday when I was driving on the highway, the following lights came on the dashboard.
1) Master Caution Light
2) VSC
3) ((!)) 'electronic brake malfunction'
4) Check engine light
The car seemed to be handling fine, and I kept on driving. However, after a few miles the car would go in neutral, I would need to stop before it will let me drive. I got to where I needed to go and then had the car towed to the dealer service shop.
The dealer came back and said that the water pump for the inverter needed changing (it was under warranty) plus the 12V utility battery also needed changing. They saw the DTS codes when the connected their computer to the car. I have my car back and other than the price of the battery had a really good experience with the dealer service center. They were prompt and efficient. Also it seems to me that car is driving more in the electric mode with the engine coming on less. Just my impression.
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My fiancee has a 2005 base model and is out shopping today. She just called me and said that she is stuck in a parking lot.
She told me on the way off the highway today the "big and little" triangles came on, but the car drove fine. When she got back to her car to leave, the car would turn on presumably, but all the warning lights were on. She then said that the car would not go into drive and only into neutral.
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2009 Touring Dead at 55000... All lights on dash light up and won't shift to reverse or drive only neutral. Towed to dealer and they said it threw several codes and are replacing the tranny.
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I'm beginning to have trouble with my 2004 Prius starting after hitting the button. The red triangle comes on and it will only go to park or neutral, I can't get the car to go off after pressing the start button, after a few minutes it does something then I'm able to drive . I've had this happen probably 3-4 times in the last 6 months.
As of right now the car has 356,000 miles on it. I'm guessing it might be the 12v battery. Since, I put about maybe 300miles a week on it compared to his 1-2,000 /week we were hoping this car might last at least till the other is paid off.
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Dealer advised the following procedure for parking car:
1. Come to a stop, foot on break
2. Put car into Neutral, make sure Neutral is lit up
3. Then press the Park button.
They said this is better for transmission. Didn't see a mention of it in the manual, and have no problem doing this. Or are you just coming to a stop and then hitting the Park button, skipping the Neutral step?
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I'm having trouble diagnosing a high RPM in park and neutral on my 2004 Santa FE 4WD 2.7L. Idle's great in drive and reverse. Occasionally when I start the car up it will shoot up to 3000 RPM until I shift into drive or reverse with a heavy thunk. Then it drives fine. When I shift back into park when I'm done driving, it will shoot back up. To avoid this, I just shut the car off in drive and then shift to park.The weird thing is, sometimes it doesn't happen at all. Sometimes it starts right up and shuts down with perfect idle. However, once I give it some throttle in park in these instances, the idle will jump back and forth between 1500 and 2000 and won't die back down to 800 where it should be until I shift into drive or reverse. Not sure what's going on.
I've replaced the idle air control valve, purge valve solenoid, and camshaft position sensor, but to no avail. I also replaced the throttle position sensor a few weeks ago, but that didn't seem to do anything, so I took it back. I'm wondering if I maybe didn't do the correct installation procedure. I still have the old grey TPS for what it's worth. Should I change this? I've also played with the tension in the throttle cable, but I don't really know how to get it exactly within specifications. I definitely removed some slack. I just checked for vacuum leaks using the cigar method with a hose from the PCV valve with the throttle body sealed with saran wrap, but I couldn't find anything. My method was shoddy, and I don't really know what I'm doing, so I wouldn't rule out a vacuum leak by any means.
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I have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
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Just discovered today (after driving my Prius since 2006) the Fog Lights are Not on when light switch in park position. In fact, there are not any lights on in the front of the car when light switch in park mode.
North Carolina has a law to burn headlights when using windshield wipers. The HID lights seem to draw from the High Voltage batteries. So, I've been putting the light switch in the park mode .....thinking the fog lights would be on. (Yes, I have the fog light switch in the on position.)
There is not any lights on in the front of the car when switch is in the park mode. You don't know how many rain storms I've been in, thinking the Fog Lights were on. ...even meeting Highway Patrol coming at me, and they never pulled me over, adding to my thinking I was burning the Fog Lights without the HID lights on.
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Basically, I wash the car myself. I wash with a soft spongy brush and exterior car wash fluid.
Now at the bottom areas (near the skirts and just lower bumper) and also some lower part of the doors, I notice stains that look brown in color and they don't disappear by me just using the spongy cleaner. It got to a point where I used my nail on the greasy bugger (the spots are small but annoying looking, barely a millimeter in diameter), and it spreads and becomes a light brown in color. I have to use my nails to get these buggers out and at some times there's tons of them based on the weather and the driving conditions.
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What could cause this? I have 100k and I only notice this if in park or neutral at 1500rpms. It goes away before and after and it seems to drive very smoothly. I had a bad alternator and I just replaced it but the "new" one is making a high pitching ringing so I'm having the shop change that out for a new oem. Any chance it's the alternator or could this be something else. I have sea foamed the throttle body recently and cleaned the maf recently and changed the air filter. I didn't do plugs but they are do at 120k
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I have 2013 Prius, small Jerk and make "click" sound when I go from Park to Neutral.
It happen Only first time in morning, the temperature is about 78/82 degree F. So its not cold issue after that It runs little bit, like grocery store or gas station no Jerk or no sound.
It has 42000 Miles now.
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2011 Prius II, purchased 2/2012. Driving down the highway, and the car pops itself into Neutral and the check hybrid system warning light comes on on. Had to have it towed to the closest dealership who pretty much told me it must have been my fault; I must have hit the park button driving down the road. However, about an hour prior to getting on the highway, we were driving down the road, heard a beep and started decelerating. I noticed the car had some how ended up in Neutral. Shifted it back to drive kept on our merry way. Half hour later we pull into a gas station, and the park button is not working. The only way we could get the car into park was by turning the car off (pushing the power button).
Once we got back in the car, we checked the park button and it seemed to be working again, so we took off down the highway. We only got about a mile before the car popped back into neutral, the check hybrid system light came on, and we could not keep the car in drive (by shifting it back into drive) because within one second the car would pop back into neutral. The day previous to all this, my car had just had its 5k mile maintenance.
The next day I didn't even make it out of my drive way before the car pops itself back into neutral, but no codes or anything pop up. Put it back into park and drive to work without further incidents. I bring the car to the dealership where I purchased it and they opened a ticket with Toyota drive it for 100 miles and cannot recreate the issue and Toyota is unaware of any issues with park button or the spontaneous neutral shifting. This was 2 weeks ago.
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I have a 2015 Prius package two. The other day I was taking it in for its 10,000 mile maintenance, and I pulled out a fuse that I connected my DRL lights with the Main power (so the drl lights would be on with the head lights). The car was on and the check hybrid system light came on. The car would not move only stayed in park and neutral. I had Toyota care come pick it up and they said that if there's any issues that the warranty won't cover it. How I can get the warranty to cover any damages if there is any. The tow truck driver said he thought the car Might think it's being stolen because I did unplug the battery for about 15 minutes to try to reset the check hybrid system.
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My 2001 Outback's tail lights leak water (in) whenever it rains or the car is washed. I've already replaced both bulb sockets due to corrosion, even though I take the bulbs out and let the fixture dry out before plugging them back in. (I overlook the fact that some of my tail lights don't work in the meantime.) Two questions: 1. is there anything that can be done about this to prevent the leak? and 2. is is true that new tail lights, and even new Subarus, have the same problem?
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I shift to neutral when approaching a red light when my speed is exactly at 7 mph to save on battery power that would otherwise continue to propel the car forward. Combined with proper timing, this also allows my car to come to a complete stop without the use of brakes on flat roads. Once stopped, I immediately shift back to drive to allow the battery to charge if needed and of course in preparation for the green light.
A few sites, such as Putting your car in neutral at read lights. Good or bad? (red light, manual transmission) - Automotive -Sports cars, sedans, coupes, SUVs, trucks, motorcycles, tickets, dealers, repairs, gasoline, drivers... - City-Data Forum mention that shifting from drive to neutral at red lights, then back to drive again when the lights turn green puts wear on automatic transmissions.
Given that the Prius C has CVT, will it also wear, due to such frequent D -> N -> D shifting under the circumstances described?
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This is happening intermediately, maybe 1 out of every 5 starts.
Using the override I can shift just fine and the lights go away within 2-3 minutes. However, there's obviously something misaligned here. Search revealed potential brake switch issue (my tails and brake lights are fine so no issues there), lockout issue, or a park neutral switch.
So I took the panel apart and I am trying to isolate these potential issues, image attached, what I need to do next? I am more of a visual person so if someone can circle the part I need to disassemble or replace that would be most useful.
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I took my Prius Two to its first car wash today, afterwards, the air flow from the vents became minimal, almost non-existent. How could this be? The car is barely two months old. Prior to the car wash, I had the AC and air blasting to the highest, I didn't change any fan settings, and now there's barely any air coming out. I can hear the fans churning and running, but there's no air!!! Do I take it to the dealer?
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