Prius (2004-09) :: AC System Hardly Working Just Blowing Warm Air
May 20, 2010
A few weeks ago I took my 2004 Prius into the dealer to get an AC diagnostics. At that time it was hardly working just blowing warm air. It did seem to be a bit colder tho when the car was in motion. With that visit I was told that there is a leak in my AC system and they recharged it and added a dye, to determine where the leak was coming from. I was told to use the AC as much as possible from then till my follow up appointment.
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My air conditioning constantly blows out warm air - even if I set it to the lowest temperature ("LO").
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I have an 05 prius that has been a great car 193,000 miles with no issues, until now. AC started blowing warm air so took it to mechanic who replaced the compressor. Blew cold for a day and started blowing warm again. Took it back to mechanic replaced the evaporator. Same thing blew cold for a day and then warm air next day.
Mechanic told me to take it to Toyota to get it looked at and they said 3 way coolant valve so we replaced that and still blowing warm air. Took it back to Toyota for the second time and they said it was a bad compressor so we replaced that and still no cold air. No AC in Florida summer is getting old fast need to get this fixed.
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I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
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It works great for the first 5 minutes and gets icebox cold. I can almost see my breath then the system starts blowing warm air and stays that way. I've had the coolant recharged and the shop tells me there is nothing wrong with it. Of course it works for them.
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Customer's car died about 2 hours from me. What this could be? It is at a shop now, and I walked them through how to test the main fusable link in the engine bay, and they said it was good. They also checked the 12v battery and that tested good. Here is what happened.
The customer was driving, then he said the triangle of the death and check engine light came on. Then, he kept driving for a little while and then all the sudden everything went dark and he coasted to the shoulder. The car hasn't had the inverter coolant pump recall done, so I am leaning towards that. The car's dome lights come on, the key can unlock and lock the car, but if you slide the key in and press the power button, nothing happens. What on earth would cause that?
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I have a 2008 Azera, my A/C is not working properly, when I turn it on the drivers side is COOL, the passenger side warm air is coming out.
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We bought this car a month ago, 2007 US touring model. It had a 15A fuse in the Gauge position (spec calls for 10A there) when we bought it. As of last week it is blowing a lot.
What we've noticed:
- First time it happened I noticed my signals weren't working. After 5 minutes of driving I pulled over and turned the car off and on. At that point the Combination Meter went blank. After getting home I found the fuse blown. Replaced it with a 10A fuse, and that blew right away when starting the car. Replaced it with a 15A fuse and it worked for a few trips.
- While I was away for a week, my wife replaced the fuse 3 times while it blew away from home. (she estimates every third trip) She has found it seems to happen when putting the car in reverse.
- Today the car is working fine, and I can't replicate the problem.
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I have a 2004 bought in 2003. It recently logged its first 100k miles. My problem with it is not easy to describe. It is actually running more like a non-hybrid car. I can feel and tell the hybrid system is operational, and I can hear the electric motor whine when coasting, down, etc. However, I don't think it is running as it should or as it used to. It happened on highway while cruising about 70 mph. I hit the accelerator to pass someone, and I felt that something changed. I'll try to describe it: think of a half-clogged pipe. The water can barely gets past the obstruction. You keep applying pressure, and suddenly the clog dissolves under pressure, and water begins to flow freely, and the pressure goes down. So it felt like that. Now the accelerator pedal is lighter, car is faster to respond, yet I think something is wrong because the car isn't itself anymore.
I don't like problems like these because they are very difficult to diagnose, let alone fix. For a while I also have not heard the inverter pump whine after shutting the car off as I did in the past, but the last time I got out of the car today I heard it. I believe it was replaced five years ago after a collision with a Trailblazer wiped out half of the front end ( but with no power train damage). I checked the VIN for the inverter pump campaign, but my VIN was not in the range.
Right now my problem is that the car feels a lot faster than it has ever been. When I lift off the accelerator, it doesn't begin to coast as it used to. No warning light of any kind out of the ordinary is present on the dash, although it did have the red triangle on during start up with a message about the parking gear not being engaged properly. That warning went away after the change in performance occurred. Related?
I guess I will take it to the dealer to see if there are any codes stored. After my 30 mile commute this morning, no whining, buzzing or any kind of noise was present after I shut off the car and I got out. There is still no warning light.
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I'm having issues with my a/c blowing randomly warm air. At idle (stop lights, heavy traffic) the cold air will kick off but the fan will remain constant. Once I'm back up to full speed, the cold air will come back. It also works if I turn the a/c and fan off for a few minutes and turn it back when I'm at highway speed. I've recharged it and when it blows cold it will freeze me out. I'm thinking its a possible compressor issue?
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Car was deemed a total loss. I didn't think the damage was too bad and one of my friends at a bodyshop told me to go ahead and do a car buy back that I can't go wrong with a prius. My mother said $20 gas a week. So I did and gave my mom the difference. The Car drives going forward and in reverse just find. Besides the body damage I got underneath the car and I see a bent tie rod end and maybe a lower control arm. The thing is when I hop inside to move the car I notice the car reads transaxle disengaged and battery system won't charge in neutral.
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My Prius has 198K, runs great and has been trouble free. This week it started acting up. The AC will run for a few minutes, blowing very cold, then will blow warm air for a period of time, perhaps 10 minutes, then will blow cold again for a few minutes. It will repeat this several times, then will blow cold until the end of the trip, about another 30 minutes.
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Been having an issue lately with the AC system on my 2010 4.6L F150. The AC system is not working properly and is only blowing air the same temp as outside. In other words, if its 60 degrees in the morning the AC will blow cool, but later in the day its blowing warm. Pushes air no problem, but living in Florida, it's mainly warm air. Compressor clutch is kicking on and off fairly rapidly when on max AC setting (5-10 seconds on, then 5-10 seconds off). Hooked up gauge to low pressure side and the readings were 60psi WITH compressor on, then fell to 30psi when the compressor turns off. Where to start? Haven't done too many AC fixes before. Potentially a bad compressor? Overcharged lines?
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I bought this 06 Prius in April and it has been a nightmare. I have an 05 and thought "I love this car so much, I want another!". I didn't do a good job inspecting the car before I got it, but oh well. Here we are at the dealership because my Driver side AC was blowing warm and the passenger side was nice and cool. $300 later, they call me up and say they have drained all the Freon because theres an obstruction causing the pressure on the high side to get so high that the compressor purge valve has to kick in and their AC machine shut off to protect the car.
He said it would cost 1700 to replace the Expansion Valve and the Receiver Drier, and that they weren't positive that would fix the issue, but that its the first step before replacing the Compressor. He said normally they'd suspect the compressor is going out, but he said it appears to be operating okay. Their opinion was that there is an obstruction in the line - most likely some sort of metal - which is causing the obstruction and the pressure on the high side to go to extreme levels.
Pressure on the low side he said was okay.
Here is the text from the service receipt:
Performed A/C inspection and all vents appear to operate fine. No leaks seen. Lots of debris in front of the condenser. Suspect system low on Freon. Perform evac and recharge. Installed dye.
Pressures:
High: 130psi
Low: 15psi
Used 1.1lbs of freon then noticed the restriction. Removed freon. recommend replace expansion valve receiver dryer, flush lines and replace all necessary o rings.
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The A/C on my 2004 Accord has started blowing warm air out of the 2 driver side vents, but still blows cold air out of the 2 passenger side vents. It also occasionally blows condensation out of the 2 cold passenger vents. When this same thing happened last summer, the condenser and compressor were replaced within 3 weeks of each other. It is less than a year later and the same problem is occurring. Even more odd; every once in a while the 2 driver side vents will blow cold for just a few minutes, then revert to blowing warm air. The car does not have dual climate controls.
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It was blowing cold and stopped. Minutes later it started again and then stopped. This went on for a week and then stopped altogether. Car has 190,000 miles. Is it compressor, clutch or relay....
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Bought an 04' Pontiac Grand. AC worked fine on the test drive then after a few weeks the AC stopped blowing air. I can feel the compressor is working and the air is being conditioned but the blower motor does not turn on. I've tried using all the speeds and none of them work. I do not believe the controls are to blame but rather either
A.) resister or
B.) connector(s) or
C.) blown blower motor.
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I turned on my AC... set the temp to 62 degrees (pressed AUTO and pressed the button where all the AC controls are all the same temp) ... And its blowing out warm air.. Left it running for about 5 minutes and still no sign of cold air.... Am I doing something wrong? do i not know how to turn on the AC?
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So, I get in my car yesterday after being away for the weekend (the car has been sitting for 4 days). I get in and crank the AC and it blows warm air. My first thought was "here we go, I need a new AC compressor". I decided to pull into a driveway and I turned off the car, and then turned it on again. When I restarted the car, the AC kicked in like it is supposed to. Cold air as always. Is this a sign of the AC going out?
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I have a 2004 4.2. Touareg A/C is only blowing warm air. I ran Vag-com no codes. I used a gauge to check refrigerant ,the system was empty. I added refrigerant, i could see it increase and then decrease immediately. The A/C then work for a while then started blowing warm again. Used the gauge again ...empty. I then noticed clear oil on the ground. There is a drip from underneath front drivers side , looks like from a small silver canister by radiator.
I'm thinking about adding dye and looking for the leak. Is this A DIY fix or should I just take it to a mechanic. I've replaced the timing belt, brakes, drive shaft and a few other repairs. I hate taking this car to a mechanic, they always have issues.
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I know last year it was working fine, actually went pretty cold. Yesterday it was 93 degree here in Wisconsin, so thats pretty hot for us. Anyways, It's blowing warm air out, not hot or anything just pretty much outside air (the feel of it atleast) Can this be recharged with free0on or w.e it takes??
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