Prius (2004-09) :: AC Stops Working After Running For About 30 Minutes
Jul 7, 2012
My wife has recently been complaining that the AC will work for a while, but then it stops working after running for about 30 minutes. She also reports that, at that time, the air flow (blower speed?) seems to drop tremendously. I have observed the former but not the latter, so I can't say for sure that if it really drops in air flow or if it's just a matter of perception. I put my AC gauges on it and it reports the following:
Static reading is 70/100 PSI
Reading system on is 17/145 PSI
Ambient temperature is ~92 degrees humidity is 65%
Vent reading is ~77 degrees
I can see movement in the sight glass while the vehicle is running. I'd like to add a little refrigerant (if that's what it looks like it needs) just to see if we can make it through the summer. Prior to the AC problems popping up.
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I'm trying to add some 134 to the AC to see if it will work at all. it slowly stopped last year. I got a charge hose and a can of just 134a. When I attached the hose the gauge pegs on the high pressure side. I know I'm on the low pressure side and the compressor isn't running. It starts and stops. Should the pressure be that high with the compressor not running?
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I have a 2001 Kia Sportage. Manual transmission.
For the past two days, once the vehicle has been running long enough to get hot, it becomes really difficult to shift. I think I'm losing the clutch pedal. For example, when in first gear stopped at a traffic light, the car will stall out with the clutch engaged (as if the clutch weren't pressed down.) With the car moving, it's physically very hard to move the gear shift.
Topped off the break/clutch master cylinder fluid, and it seems ok. Also took a look at the transmission fluid, and it is not low.
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This happened several times on my way home today.
Car: 2013 Prius v Three
Symptom: Bluetooth connects and works but then stops after a couple minutes. The Bluetooth Settings screen indicates "Bluetooth Off" at this point but will not turn back on if I press the button that should toggle it. All other options on the settings screen are dimmed out.
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Starts right up, runs fine. No CEL. No warning. No symptoms. It just stops running. It may or may not start right back up, but when it does start back it runs as fine as it was running before it quit.
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Weather got cold last night and froze everything. When I went to start my wife's car she had left the wipers in the on position the night before and I did not notice it. Once I turned the car on, the wipers went to start moving but were frozen. Once I realized it I quickly switched it to the off position, but it was too late. After defrosting everything and cleaning the windshield, the wipers will not work. I thought first it was a blown fuse so I switched it out with a new one, but still no luck. After my engine turned off I could hear the wiper motor running but no moving on the wipers. I have checked the nuts that hold the base of the wipers in place and they are tight. I have a 2007 Prius as well.
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I am working on a customers 08 F-350 5.4l has 135k on it. came in with a severe rattle/knock, running poorly, and dying at stops. ECM gave up 8 codes relating to the timing... Found the phaser replacement steps here on FTE and followed them and replaced the VCT solenoids since i was in there. Customer reported that he replaced the cam sensors already. Ran great for a day, and the next day when I pulled into the shop it gave me a rattle. Not as violent as before but noticeable. I special ordered the wedge and followed the replacement to a 'T'. I have no performance issues and no codes.
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My girlfriend has a 2010 prius with the navigation package. We go to the drive in movies quite frequently because it's cheaper and close to us. Every 30-45 minutes the prius will automatically shut off the battery. The interior lights turn on and the sound goes off.
We are kind of getting tired of getting dirty looks when this happens. So we're wondering if there is a way to take this setting off.
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If I put the Prius in park while I get out and mail a letter, engine temp is 190, I can get back in and drive off on electric, zero rpm's. However, if I push the start/stop button, mail the letter, and restart the engine (temp is still 190), I cannot get the engine to spool down. It keeps running for a few minutes.
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Our Nissan Sentra 2004 heater occasionally stops working, usually when its very cold of course. Usually, the heater starts working fairly quickly but then starts blowing cold air. If you move the vent dial to different positions something changes and the heat starts working again. A mechanic says that something in the heating vents has probably come lose and to find it quite abit of the engine parts will need to be removed resulting in a big bill.
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About a month ago, I was driving 50 mph in my 06 screw on a dirt road. There was an old wood bridge that was not as flush as I was expecting. Jolted the truck pretty good but it kept on trucking. However, a few seconds after the jolt, the power to the AC cut out. All I had to do was turn the AC to "off" then back on and it'd start working fine. Over the last month, the power randomly cuts out, but will go back on after I switch to "off" then back on. It's happened maybe 3 or 4 times since The Big Jolt.
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I own a 2004 Silverado 1500. Nearly every time I drive, I loose temperature control on the driver's side after about 15 minutes of running the engine. The passenger's side seems to be working fine. I'm not sure if it is a bad rheostat on the driver's side or a bigger issue.
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We have replaced crank position sensor, ecm/ coil packs and computer. got good pressure on fuel rail. Starts cold, will run normally for approximately 5 minutes before it dies and will not start.
Sometimes we can hold accelerator to floor and it will "hit" a few licks but promptly dies when accelerator is released. We've checked fuses and relays; what are we missing?
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My friend's Accent LC 1.3L won't start from time to time. This never happens on cold start, this is always the situation after warm engine stops and needs to be run again after 5-15 minutes. When you try to turn on the car then, starter is rolling the engine but nothing happens (Yellow key light on dashboard is on, so there is no problem with a key code). Then he wait for a few minutes and car starts like it nothing happens. I suspect the crankshaft sensor.
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At startup, my 2002 Jeep A/C cools normally for about 10 minutes and then stops cooling. It won't cool again until much later, usually not until the next day, and then repeats cooling for about another 10 minutes . Might this be overcharged? I topped it off with gauge last fall.
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I have a 1995 Dodge neon 2.0 SOHC. It stars, runs for a few minutes, then dies. Then when I try again it will run for a few seconds before it dies. After that I do not hear my fuel pump engage when I turn they key. It takes about a day before it repeats this process.
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My A/C has been working fine up til the end of last season and getting worse now. It comes on and blows really cold, then after a bit a electrical connection gets hot and looses contact somewhere. I can turn it off for about 5 miles then turn it back on, May last the rest of the day, may only last 10 min, then turn it back off, wait 10 min, turn on, does great! I thought it might be a dampener door,, but does the same whether in defrost, regular A/C, or max, so I think it has got to be a electrical connection getting hot and loose.
2004. F250 FX4. 198,000 miles,,,, runs great,,, just a little hot driving!!!
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We have a 2003 GMC Envoy. Normally upon starting the car, the engine will rev high for a few minutes while driving and then it stops and returns to normal. However, this morning I was driving the car and it was revving high continuously. Every time I started from a stop at a light, it would rev up to 2 RPM's and continue higher while the car was just sluggish. I would let off of the gas pedal and it would drop back down and slowly shift but then it would return to making a loud revving sound as I stepped on the gas pedal. There are no lights lite up on the dashboard and everything looks normal except for the loud revving sound and the car being sluggish because of the high revving.
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2004 Excursion 4x4 6.0. I just had the fuel injectors & wiring harness replaced and it runs great, but after 30 minutes of driving the complete dash lights/gauges stopped working. I found that the #45 10amp fuse had blown so replaced it and after 20 minutes the same thing happened. While it was working all of the lights & gauges seemed to be working okay. This doesn't effect anything else, still starts & runs okay, turn signals work, head lights work, but the head light auto on/off doesn't.
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I stopped at a light yesterday and the day before and the ICE will turn off, then turn on for a second or two, then off, then on for a second or two, etc. it did this for probably 15 seconds until I let my foot off the brake and coasted forward a few feet then stopped again. What the heck is going on. It's done it twice now.
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My Prius works great. It is a 2007 model with 42 000 miles in a perfect condition. However, the "Check engine" light is on. Well, when the engine is still cold, it runs fast and, sometimes, before it stops, it shakes a little.
My mechanic noticed a 171 code issue. From Toyota, they recommended to change the trottle body. That's what we did, but the light was soon back. We checked all the connections : they seem ok.
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