The A/C does not work, only room-temp air comes out, essentially. The mechanic also said it sounded a little too loud. He says the condenser has a leak. My question is, is this system NEEDED for the other prous parts to function correctly, or can I just roll my windows down and enjoy the breeze?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 PI and recently lost heat and ac. All the controls do what they are supposed to do but both heat and ac blow room temp only. Fuses and relays are all good. Is this a blend door actuator problem? This is my guess and I'm basing the next question on a yes answer. Is it possible to access the actuator by making an eightXfour hole in the top of the dash above the radio. I would prefer not to have to pull the dash out of the way since everything else works good.
View 1 RepliesFrom time to time, climate control will stop working. Buttons are not lit up or responsive, fans do not work, and computer doesn't show outside temperature. Problem can last a day, an hour, 10 minutes, or any other time frame. Most of the time once it stops working it will not start working until left parked and locked overnight. Sometimes when we start driving it would all of a sudden start working on its own. This has happened during multiple seasons and multiple weather conditions.
I took the car to Lexus dealer who decided it would be a smart idea to replace the whole climate control unit in the dash, well this past weekend the problem occurred again with brand new climate control unit in place.
Bought this truck, and the engine coolant temp gauge does not work, so I replaced the sender, still don't work.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 Prius with 176k miles on it. I drive it about 65 miles each way to work every day. If I really baby the throttle, no warning lights ever come on, and the heat will take about 45 minutes to kick in. If I use the gas a little more aggressively, the heat will start working after about 30 minutes when I get on the freeway and speed up, BUT the high temperature warning light will intermittently come on. First, the red triangle Warning light will come on, followed by "PROBLEM" on the display followed by a red temperature indicator.
Typically it flickers off after just a few seconds, but sometimes the temp light stays on for longer, maybe 30 seconds or a minute before it shuts off. Then it continues to go on and off every few minutes for as long as I'm on the freeway. It doesn't seem to be directly related to when I hit the gas. I have checked the coolant level and it looks fine.
I bought the car back around 2010 when it had just received it's 100k mile maintenance and they had also just replaced the water pump. I haven't looked at the OBD-II codes, if there are any. I have never replaced the 12v battery. The lights are pretty annoying/alarming and I'm not sure if it's "normal" for the heat to take 30-45 minutes to come on. Maybe the 12v battery or the inverter pump need to be replaced?
Does the prius c heater work if we set inside temp higher than outside temp ?(Difference is 2 or 3 degrees ). Is the heater take more energy than AC ?
View 11 RepliesI'm new to the 2G and noticed a wheel shudder or jump when turning a tight circle in low temps? I'll try to list out all the info I can:
The shudder was exactly like a 4x4 vehicle in low range/diff-lock when turning on dry pavement.
Going straight or slight turns only, nothing noticeable. ( I was paying attention)
200k miles, just bought the car and haven't changed the WS atf yet.
Temps in the -25°C/-10°F range ....
I have a Honda civic 2005 LX, 170,000 miles. I love this car as I went through my tough time with it. I don't want to give it up until it dies if possible. Only issue of this care is AC does not work when temperature is hot. It works really good when it's cold/rain. When I turn on the car and AC in the morning, the compressor works fine for 5-10 minutes and it turns off when the engine is normal temp.(below mid line). I went to one local mechanic and I was told Freon level is good.
They spend about an hour to figure out what's going on and they told me that I need to change my entire compressor, I felt they just can't figure out what exactly causes it and want to just scare me with big $, to make me give it up. (because compressor works fine when it's cold. I think something with temperature) I recently changed my Thermostat, filled up coolant, and changed crutch-AC relay fuse but no change in the AC symptoms. I will need AC for sure when I move into Arizona next summer!
Vehicle: 2009 Toyota Prius Base ... Recently my car started showing the master warning light along with the temp warning light on the navigation screen. After opening the hood and inspecting, there is a coolant leaking from somewhere. Took it to the dealer and was told there is no leak but a bad/blocked coolant tank assembly. Question is, if I bought the tank myself for under $1k, could I replace it myself? What would be involved besides replacing coolant? Do I need to get the air out of the lines? Etc.
View 19 RepliesFirst background: G2 car has 215,000 mi and recently got P1121 scan code, so I replaced the coolant control valve. that's when high coolant temp and no cabin heat started.
on CCV top nipple connected to hose that had a dot on it and hose goes under inverter cover on right, next nipple down went to hose slightly to left of first hose, bottom hose goes to thermus can. initially ran car in diag mode with high heat, no heat in cabin.
so I got a Autel 519 scan code reader and I see now that the only code is a P0505 (idle air control malfunction)
taking car down my road for short test run, I turn off cabin heat completely and watched the ECT. after a while it climbs to around 220, then while engine is running quickly goes to 245F then 260F. At that point in time (around 245F) the high temp indicator lights up, temp stayed at 260ish so I return home. With car in park, cabin heat off - the temp returns back down to 220F. if I rev the engine temp again climbs.
I have gone through all suggestions, open radiator bleed valve, manually 'pumped' coolant hoses, turned on/off high heat in cabin and finally with car off removed and jumped the CHS multiple times for about 20secs.
Have purged the coolant system over period of days and coolant appears to be full as level is near top of radiator cap, no bubbling, no gurgling.
However 2 mentioned problems continue... I am starting to suspect coolant thermostat but it would seem strange that it would go at precisely the same time as coolant control valve.
I have a weird problem with the AC on my 2001 Passat. Every so often, evidently at random, the computer will show an outside temp that is far below actual. It will sometimes drop to -58F, even when it is hot outside. It won't always go that far down--and it eventually returns to the true temperature. But when this happens, the AC turns off, or the heat turns up (I have the Climatronic thingy). We have to shut the climate control off altogether in order not to roast. Turning off the car is not always a fix for this, and neither is turning off the AC. I suspect a sensor of some kind has gone bad, but the dealership wants an exorbitant amount of money just to dig deep enough in the car to discover what is wrong. This has been going on for 6 months, in all weather, but with greater frequency lately.
View 3 RepliesMy climatronic has been goofy since I bought my 2000 v6 4mo. In the winter my heat never got really hot and now in the summer my A/C work sporadically. I had the thermostat changed along with the full timing belt service. I'm hoping I'll get full heat come september. My A/C, however works less and less often. The tech who did the timing belt change etc. said that there was a lot of pressure at the condenser, but that he thought a flap may have been stuck. he checked those and they are fine. The last two things he said should be checked are the external temp gauge(which is way off, reads 22'F when its like 85 out) or possibly I need a new climatronic head unit.
My questions are esentially these; Does the climatronic use the outside temp gauge to determine cabin temp? Do head units fail often? Are there temp sensors in the cabin other than those built into the climatronic head unit?
Started having problems with one of the key fobs for my '09 Prius about a year ago. Battery change, perked up a bit, but then started malfunctioning. At first, wouldn't unlock car doors, then wouldn't start car. Will do so if insert into the fob receptacle, but not remotely.
I'm trying again to revive it, since it only lasted 4-5 months before. Won't unlock car doors again, etc. Unlock button does not appear to be stuck - you can feel it "clicking" when you press it, so it doesn't appear to be the stuck button problem.
How to open the remote so i can replace the battery.
View 3 RepliesWater temperature gauge doesn't work. Assumed the problem was the sensor so bought a new one. Installed it, still nothing registering on the gauge after I know the water is heated up (drove it for 45 minutes, heater blowing hot).
So crossed the ground on the sensor and the gauge shot to the top so gauge is working.
Pulled wiring diagram and that sensor is SUPPOSED to register 79ohms for cold and 8 ohms for hot.. So bought a 10ohm resistor from radio shack and attached the water temp lead to it and the gauge read correctly about 1/8 inch from the H mark on gauge. This confirmed for me that gauge is not at fault.
Next I attached the ohmmeter to the sensor itself, boiled some water, placed the sensor tip into it and it read 86 ohms, in freshly boiled water! So at boiling the sensor isn't anywhere near to tripping the gauge to even start reading cold! So I tested the old sensor that I was replacing and in boiling water it shows 94 ohms?
What am I doing wrong, is there an assumption I am making here in error? I want to conclude the new sensor is bad, but the old sensor reads nearly the same reading under same conditions.So yes maybe they are BOTH bad but that seems to be pushing probability.
If it matters this sensor is the type that is inline from radiator to heater core, not the type that is in the engine block, at some point ford changed their sensor setup but didn't change the schematic drawing. Which doesn't matter the only difference is the one in-line has a ground wire to it rather then grounding off the engine block.
Vehicle is a 97 Ford Ranger with the 2.0 liter engine.
I've got a 2004 Prius and I recently had some body repair done which included having the cloth interior upgraded to leather.
When I picked up my Prius from the shop, the key fob wouldn't work when it was in my pocket. I had to push the unlock key to open the door. Then when I tried to start the car w/ the key in my pocket, it wouldn't start so I had to put the key into the dash to get the car started.
Once I got home, I figured the battery was dead so I replaced it and tried again and got the same results. Then I went around the car testing the passenger door and truck and it's the same thing, it won't unlock w/out pushing the button on the key fob.
I'm just wondering while under regenerative braking, is the car braking with only the front two wheels? And four wheel braking starts when the friction brakes engage? Or does the rear drum brakes always engage even though the front is braking through the electric motor?
View 12 RepliesIs there a fuse or something for the lights above the sunvisors on roof. Both sides not working. I replaced tge bulbs and still nothing when you turn off and on.
View 1 RepliesWhen the weather gets to below freezing and I start my van in the morning the brake pedal will not push down no matter how hard I push. The first time this happened I was moving and had no brakes for seconds. Luckily no one was in front of me. If I warm the van up just a couple of minutes I can feel it release and then the brakes are fine. I've taken it to the Honda dealer twice and also an independent mechanic and no one can find anything wrong with my brakes. I know I can wait until the van warms up but should this situation be happening? I never experience this in my Caravan or any other vehicle.
View 6 RepliesI tried a few used batteries I had laying around, so then I ordered the exact battery that was in the fob, Panasonic 2032 and it still doesn't work. The car has always sensed my hand at door and I still don't need to put the key in the slot. I can just push start, but the lock and unlock buttons don't respond.
I've read that the red light should come on when the buttons are pressed, and they don't with the new battery so the new battery is probably too weak.
I have a Prius i-Tech 2007. I had gone overseas and came back after 2 weeks. On return, the smart key just didn't work. It didn't open the door...I took out the mechanical key and opened the door. Then I inserted the key in the key slot and tried to start the car but it just didn't react at all.
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