The a/c and heater are not operating properly. Not cold enough and not getting warm. Low freon, compressor going bad?
On a brighter note...I've sat looking down into a volcano that could blow at any moment.
My heater quit blowing hot or warm air all of the sudden. I took my mechanic and they said it showed no codes and were afraid to mess with it so I took it to a dealership. They worked on it most of a day. Said nothing showed a code as bad, they got into it and found the air going into the heater core was hot, but it was cool coming out. They spent some time flushing the coolant and said they found some sediment in the coolant fluid. They were hoping to flush out anything clogging the heater core.
View 8 RepliesI can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
View 14 RepliesMy 2007 es350 77k miles. Heater starts to get warm and then it blows cold air. What could cause this.
View 8 Replies2007 GS 350 109,500 miles. My heater was blowing cold at idle and warm when driving so I took it to dealer. To my surprise, dealer says its a blown head gasket. No other symptoms. No white smoke, no smells, no warning lights on dash, and running fine. Just had VVT gear recall done last week.
Fortunately I have Lexus extended warranty good thru 125k miles and Feb 2014. I do my own maintenance (plugs, oil changes etc). Have records for all. But have not done coolant change (due at 100k).
My '06 GS450h has developed a fault where the heater blows cold at idle and low revs but blows warm when driving or revving the engine at a standstill. The coolant hasn't dropped at all and the car never goes above halfway on the temp gauge. Its starting to get frustrating now the cold weather has set in and temps dropping! Long journeys are ok as at high speeds it stays warm but short journeys are uncomfortable!
I just had a feel of the rad hoses and hoses that go into the matrix (engine side of bulk head) and matrix hoses feel warm (both of them), the top hose to the rad is warm but not hot and bottom hose is cold suggesting the stat hasn't opened yet. Its cold outside so getting the car up to temp is quite difficult without a long drive (rush hour at the mo).
Still I just had the car parked on the drive and cranked the heater up to max and held the accelerator for a while and super warm air blows out. The engine cuts back out as "normal operating temp" has been reached for battery mode and then the heater goes cool again! Still the bottom radiator hose is cool and top hose not massively warm. It has never overheated thus far and I drive 150miles a day back and forth to Reading from Cheltenham 4 nights a week.
Only thing I can think of is a sticky thermostat or water pump not operating sufficiently enough to circulate the water? Its getting colder and short trips where it used to blow warm air nice and quickly (within 3-5miles) are becoming unpleasant!
Car: 1973 Mercury Capri 2.0, four speed. Lovingly restored over the past three years. The car has Ford aftermarket air conditioning, recently serviced with R-12 (past two weeks) and I have never used it until this past weekend (I bought the car and then restored it). We used it in 90 degree heat and this little car did great even in the mountains of W.Va (60 mph uphill with A/C!) But I digress. For five minutes after being turned on, the A/C cools as expected - a real champ -- no issues.
Then, it begins a cycle like this: The air starts to get progressively warmer for about 10 seconds. Then, there is a squeak, a drop in motor rpm as the A/C/ clutch engages, and it has cold air again for 20 seconds. Then the cycle again. This is the behavior whether at idle or at highway speed. It has its own two knob control panel -- not connected to the heater controls. The fan speed is on high and the "cold" knob is turned all the way cold. Turned "warmer" it does as expected - very little cold air. It seems like a thermostatic control is telling it to disengage the clutch even though it should not -- the cabin is cool but not cool enough to justify that.
I've read the pages on engine oil level and changes in the awesome 2004-2009 manual by John's Stuff - Toyota Prius and more.
Great information on overfilling of engine oil. Among others I read:
"The ideal level is 1/4” (one-quarter inch or 6 millimeters) below the "full" mark, which is between the D and the E on the photo above." (p.27)
So the other morning I drive the 140 miles out of town to work for the week. when I pull up to the job site the cooling fans were revving really really high! never heard this before. then it went back to normal after I opened the gate and parked my truck and shut it off. I'm driving maybe 5 miles tops to the job and back to the motel every day. however that is far enough that my heater should be warming up and it's not even coming close to warm. it blows cold air. and to compound that I'm not sure the cooling fans are even working. they don't appear to be. Is there a connection here?
2011 xlt 4x4 super crew.....
My '04 Ranger has over 240k on the odometer. Runs great and has never given me any issues. Everything checks out OK - all the fluids, filters, and whatnot are in good shape. No CEL or any other indication that anything is wrong (except for maybe the IAC valve and clutch slave.)
I've noticed, though, that when I fire it up in the mornings to let it warm up while I scrape the ice and snow off the windows, the heat/defrost will not blow warm air. It doesn't matter how long I let it sit, it will only blow ambient air through the ducts.
When I get going down the road, however, the heat kicks in, after a bit, and works very well!
I've not found anything that would indicate an issue with the blend door or any other component and this is the first vehicle I've had that did this.
Is it normal for a 4.0 SOHC Ranger to do this? Or is there something I'm missing?... It's not really that big of a deal, but I do find it a bit odd that it would do this.
I mentioned the IAC above - I think it's "sticking" every once in a while and, when it does, I'll hear a loud "thump" right before it idles down to around 1k rpm. I can't see how this would affect the heat, though...
I have a 2012 C 3, with 27K miles. This morning on the way to the store i turned on the heater and the fan turned on and after like 2 mins the blower stop working. All the lights are on, but nothing comes out of the vents under any circumstances. I tried taking of the ECO mode, I tried turning the car on and off. still nothing.
If I bring it to the dealer will they fix it under warranty? Could it be a bad fuse? where is the fuse box? What could it be, its freezing outside and I need heat for the kids in the car.
My Prius has 198K, runs great and has been trouble free. This week it started acting up. The AC will run for a few minutes, blowing very cold, then will blow warm air for a period of time, perhaps 10 minutes, then will blow cold again for a few minutes. It will repeat this several times, then will blow cold until the end of the trip, about another 30 minutes.
View 7 RepliesI have owned my 2008 Rx 400 h for just over two months now and at the risk of sounding dense, am I right in assuming that when you are coasting along without the engine running, the heater will start to blow cold air? Everything works fine until you lift your foot off the pedal. This is my first Lexus/Toyota and hybrid so I'm not totally au fait with how it should be working.
View 2 RepliesJust bought a 04' F250, new head studs and gaskets. Put a tranny temp sensor in and replaced bad thermostat. My coolant res is full and temp is bout 185 (it's 10* outside). My heater is blowing out cold air, I'm assuming there's air in the system.
View 2 RepliesI bought this 06 Prius in April and it has been a nightmare. I have an 05 and thought "I love this car so much, I want another!". I didn't do a good job inspecting the car before I got it, but oh well. Here we are at the dealership because my Driver side AC was blowing warm and the passenger side was nice and cool. $300 later, they call me up and say they have drained all the Freon because theres an obstruction causing the pressure on the high side to get so high that the compressor purge valve has to kick in and their AC machine shut off to protect the car.
He said it would cost 1700 to replace the Expansion Valve and the Receiver Drier, and that they weren't positive that would fix the issue, but that its the first step before replacing the Compressor. He said normally they'd suspect the compressor is going out, but he said it appears to be operating okay. Their opinion was that there is an obstruction in the line - most likely some sort of metal - which is causing the obstruction and the pressure on the high side to go to extreme levels.
Pressure on the low side he said was okay.
Here is the text from the service receipt:
Performed A/C inspection and all vents appear to operate fine. No leaks seen. Lots of debris in front of the condenser. Suspect system low on Freon. Perform evac and recharge. Installed dye.
Pressures:
High: 130psi
Low: 15psi
Used 1.1lbs of freon then noticed the restriction. Removed freon. recommend replace expansion valve receiver dryer, flush lines and replace all necessary o rings.
I have a 2004 GX470. Now that the weather has dropped I have noticed that my heater is taking a long time to warm up all it does is blow cold air out of the vent. Subsequently I have started to notice that they car will start to overheat. It will never get to the point where it will hit the red but it will go up and then come back down to mid range. There doesn't seem to be anything else wrong with the car, it idles fine, starts fine etc. Could these two issues be related?
View 14 RepliesIt seems like it takes an awfully long time for the good mileage to get going from a cold start - even when it's warm outside. The last 5 miles of my commute are great, but the first 10 miles not so much. How much effect does ambient air temperature have on this process.
View 15 RepliesI have an 08 that the heater either works all hot or cold. It seems that when i try to control the temp it isnt consistent. It will be on hot, turned all the way the right in the red. Great, it gets too warm in the truck so turn it down a little. Then it is too cold. I only turned it down a little, not even in the blue zone yet. I turn it up a little and it is still cold. Turn it all the way up and it is too hot again. What is up with this. I hope it isnt the blend door syndrome. The truck only has 30,000 on it.
View 7 RepliesI took my 200000 mile Prius to a garage that is highly recommended and the mechanic stated that I need a new evaporator and expansion valve. He tested the car for a day. There was no time to do the fix so I arranged for a dealership that I trust to do the job. When they were ready to do the work, they detected no leak in the evaporator, but said that the compressor, expansion valve, and AC line needed replacement. (They showed me the leak in the compressor with special glasses.) After I called the first mechanic with the new info, he said that he could detect a leak nowhere, but, in the evaporator, and, at the expansion valve area. I am now stymied as to what I should do.
View 7 RepliesWell, as the cold weather has approached, a minor issue has surfaced.
It appears my driver-side mirror heater is not working. Both mirrors still move as they should, and the rear defroster and passenger side mirror both heat as the should with the defrost button, but the driver side does not, as it is cold to the touch and naturally did not melt the frost yesterday.
I looked at the fuses hoping it would be something as simple as that, but it does not appear there are separate fuses for each mirror; the naming is a bit cryptic, but it looks like there may be one for both mirrors, which logically would not explain the situation.
Seems to me the heater itself is defective, and I am not exactly looking forward to opening up the mirror and/or spending money to fix this...
The Prius is a 2006, and I am up to 256K KM (~160K miles) to date.
I wonder why the AC takes time to start heating on cold mornings. Actually. It gives warm air after about 5_10 minutes of driving. Is that OK?
View 9 Replies