Prius (2004-09) :: AC Blower Intermittently Failed To Start Up
Aug 8, 2013
I've got a 2005 with almost 300,000 miles and just recently the A/C blower has intermittently failed to start up. However, if I give the console a smack on the driver's side of the nav screen the unit usually starts up.
Now, I am assuming it is the start of an electric motor failure in the A/C Blower unit, however, the blower is apparently located under the passenger side glove box. So I am wondering if that is whee the blower is why does smaking the driver side of the nav screen start up the motor?
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I have had this car for about a year now, no problems other than the check engine light has come on and after a code check found out its the Cat converter *yay*.
Most recently the A/C blower is working rather intermittent, can start off blowing just fine and then the blower seems to decrease while the screen still shows it on high. AC temp is just fine, just the blower is having issues. Sometimes it will turn off all together and not come back on at all for several hours. I am thinking it might be the fan motor, but I don't know enough about these cars to say for certain.
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Several tries at power button failed. Icon on dashboard (small car image) flashing whether nor not I was in the car. Lights worked and emergency flashers worked. After many tries, called AAA. The AAA driver got in the car and it started right up and has worked ever since. Called dealer. Never heard of such a thing. What happened.
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Our Prius has a funny quirk, one that we can live with because it only does it occasionally, but is still quite annoying when it happens. Sometimes, when the car is started, it does not turn on the electronics correctly. Most of the stuff still works, like the radio, GPS, etc. But when it does this, the only light that shows on the console is the check engine light (which is on for some coolant sensor that we don't need to fix right now) is the only thing lit. Nothing else, including the gas gauge and odo and MPH gauge, lights up. On the Consumption screen, it also does not register miles driven, avg MPG, and does not track anything. The energy screen works fine, although it does not show current MPG, as if it doesn't really know the car's all the way on.
Only totally random stuff makes it stop, such as driving a short distance, turning the lights on, entering maintenance mode, or restarting it. (This problem usually prevents the car from shutting down, also, which can be quite annoying.) Fortunately this doesn't seem to affect the car negatively in any was other than not knowing how fast you're going. Dealer didn't pick anything out reading codes, and it doesn't do it all the time (although short starts, such as turning on to roll down windows, usually seem to cause it.)
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My 2004 camry LE (235K miles) has had a noise associated with the blower for several months. The blower worked fine on all settings but had a subtle noise that was between a purr and a click. It's constant, fast-paced, rhythmic and rises in pitch as the blower setting is changed. Hot or cold settings don't make a difference. The closest I can approximate is the sound made when kids put (or used to put) playing cards in the spokes of their bikes.
However in the last couple months the blower has stopped working intermittently. Sometimes it will come back on if I went over some railroad tracks or a hard bump. If I turn the car off the blower may not work when it's restarted. The last couple days it's stopped doing even that, and since there's snow on the ground it has become an issue! The fan setting doesn't make a difference, high or low.
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2002 Dodge Ram 3500 van (engine unknown, but I think it doesn't matter). Blower operate only at highest speed setting. OK, that's the classic symptom of a failed resistor. Replacements are readily available at chain parts stores.
Where is the resistor located? This video shows me for a 2002 Ram 1500 van. Will it be the same on the 3500?
I've learned here that sometimes resistor failure results from bearings going bad in the blower, causing excessive current draw. Is there a way to test that other than with an ammeter? What's the correct current?
2a. If the blower motor is going bad, is that something we'll be able to replace ourselves? (Yes, I should tell them to get a Haynes or Chilton.) I don't like the idea of taking off dashboard panels.
2b. Is there any other "prime cause" I should look for if the blower motor seems OK?
Are there any other parts (other than the switch) whose failure would also give that symptom?
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Around 100k miles, my 2004 prius started failing to light the right headlight. It only happened every now and then, perhaps 5-10% of the time. It seems to fail more often in cold weather. I can always get it to light by turning headlights off and on a 2-4 times.
That seemed to work, but I still get intermittent failures where the right HID doesn't start sometimes. The left always works reliably.
Obviously replacing the ballast should solve this, but that is expensive and I wonder if perhaps there is some connection that has developed a high resistance that could be solved by reseating.
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My 2006 F150 was purchased by me in early 2009 with about 28,000 miles on it. It's an XLT crew cab 4X4 with the 5.4. Stock except for a leveling kit and an aftermarket head unit. It currently has about 59,000 miles and has been babied since I purchased it. About 3 years ago I started noting some issues:
A. Oil pressure dummy gauge is all over the place. Some times it will show no oil pressure. Other times it is all the way to the highest mark. Other times the needle has gone 180 degrees past where normal is and is actualy pointing straight down towards the floor.
B. Recently my alternator dummy gauge has started doing the same thing as my oil pressure gauge.
C. The backlight behind my odometer works intermittently, but mostly not at all.
D. My dome light will flicker when first turned on. It doesn't matter which door is opened or if the override switch it turned on. It takes several seconds to come on and will flicker like there is a poor connection somewhere, but stays on once its on.
E. Blower fan will occasionally stop blowing. Once the climate control switch is turned to off, then back to on it resumes working. This doesn't happen often, but does occasionally.
Fortunately, the truck has not left me stranded and I want to keep it that way. We are getting ready to sale my wife's Toyota and this will become her daily driver. I want to take care of any issues before she starts driving it. Are these all separate issues or is there one common issue which could be causing them all?
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Turns over great but nothing. just changed fuel filters all voltages read great. I have ScanGuage and what little I can tell everything reads good. Has been acting funny for a couple weeks taking 4 or 5 cranking attempts to start every now and then no real pattern. Runs great when going even when pulling a load. It has failed to start and I'm in my shop and not sitting on the side of the road.
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The dealer told me my actuator and solenoid failed. I have a 2009 and less than 60,000 miles. I believe there is something wrong with those parts and they shouldn't fail at two years old. What do you all know about this?
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I have a 2010 Ford Escape. A few months ago, my power windows intermittently failed to work. The problem was most acute on the drivers window, but eventually spread. It's now reached a point where none of the windows work at all - neither from the drivers switches nor from the switch in each door. I replaced the fuse, but that's as far as I've gotten. My question is: what should I check next?
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I devloped a noise in the right front wheel. I thought it was a tire going bad so I rotated the tires & still had the noise. I was told by shop it is a wheel bearing. If that is the problem is that a DIY repair ?
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I had to have my 2009 Prius towed 2 days ago. It has just over 73000 miles. I was on the highway and suddenly experienced a lack of power. Eventually, the dashboard lit up: check engine light, big red exclamation point, and my favourite: it said "problem" on the center display. I pulled over and let it sit for a few minutes and tried starting it.
All the same warning lights came on. The battery level was at 1 bar. The gasoline engine would start for maybe 10 seconds and shut off. I could move the car on battery power only, but I had several miles to go before the next exit, uphill, so I figured I needed to be towed.
Long story short, my dealer said all this is due to a failed mass air flow sensor, and is going to replace it. Does that make sense? I thought a faulty sensor might make the car run roughly or whatever, but not actually prevent the engine from running.
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I went to the workshop of Toyota in Iraq to repair the car. But do not have engineers repairing Prius cars. And they examine the device to detect faults only... These numbers faults
(P0A0F)Engine failed to start.
(P261C)water pump.
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We seem to be getting reports of failed inverter coolant pumps here on just about a daily basis. I'm wondering if they're all just failing now or if this is something of a "backlog" of failures that started in Winter but are only really being detected now.
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I just moved to Colorado with my 2009 Prius and on the fifth day here the check engine light went on and the dealership said my catalytic converter failed. Luckily I was still under warranty. Is this related to the altitude or just a coincidence?
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I have a 2008 T Spirit 3 with 100k on the clock which runs perfectly fine apart from one niggly issue.
Sometimes when I brake and the speed is below 7mph it feels like the brakes have failed momentarily and the vsc light will flash and then the brakes will clamp on again.
It happens at least 20% of the time when I brake. Why this is?
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I loosened coolant pump belt when my gen II prius had only 200 miles on it. I retensioned it approximately 70% less. Where I could turn water pump pully by hand breaking traction with drive belt using all my strength.
The ice coolant pump just started to leak at the weep hole at only 63000 miles and 5 years old. I was sure the reduced tension would make coolant pump last much longer.
After retentioning it (brand new at 200 miles) I could deflect belt about one inch as opposed to not able to deflect belt at all!
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I have a 00 Passat 1.8T and the blower fan for A/C and heat has been intermittently squealing. I can sometimes get it to go away by changing the speed of the fan but I was wondering if there is any way to lubricate it up. Or should I just be looking for a new fan.
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My 2009 prius blows hot air from the fan even when the fan/heater is off. This usually happens when I am driving >40mph on the freeway and as soon as I speed up to merge or overtake, the fan turns on and blows hot air?
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I am trying some troubleshooting based on various things I found for my 2010 Toyota Highlander blower motor. The issue is that my blower motor operates intermittently. Here are the symptoms and what I've done so far:
-Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. It seems to be dependent on weather (in the sun for awhile and doesn't seem to like that), although lately it doesn't really seem to matter. Had it in my garage yesterday and it just works some times and not other.
-If it works, all speeds work (full range). That makes me think it doesn't have to do with the resistors, although I can't find the electrical schematics for the car.
-All fuses are fine
-I have jiggled all wires and can never get it to work (if not working at the time) or to not work (if working at the time), so I don't think loose wires are the issue.
-I put a multimeter across the leads going to the motor and always get voltage. When the car is on, it's about 13-14V, and when it's not running just above 12V.
-The rear blower motor works perfectly, 100% of the time
-Light physical agitation of the motor doesn't make it come on or go off
My main question is what is the 3rd lead going to the motor? The two bigger leads are the voltage, but that seems to always be there, even with the car off. I'm guessing the 3rd lead is some control signal for the motor but not sure. I can't ever get a voltage on that lead, but I'm not sure I'm even supposed to. When the motor was supposed to be on and it was working, I unplugged it and checked the voltages, but got the same readings as when it wasn't working.
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