Prius (2004-09) :: AC 10 AMP Fuse Intermittently Blows
May 28, 2013
I have a 2004 Gen II that blows the A/C(Htr) 10 amp fuse. The dealer changed the inverter and replaced the fuse with a 15 amps which masked the problem. I have looked at the items that this feeds and have eliminated the: inverter (Dealer knows very little, Scary), A/C Control assembly, heater water pump assembly. I thought that since the Heater water pump assembly runs intermittently it might be that. Or could it be the diode in the relay that controls it? I cannot seem to find where it is located..
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Over the winter, the A/C in my '04 Mitsubishi Galant quit working. It wouldn't blow any cold air at all, but I didn't mind too much since it wasn't hot out. In preparation for a hot NC summer, I took my car to a dealership about a month and a half ago to have the A/C fixed. They replaced the condenser, and the car started blowing cold air, but it would only do so intermittently. Two weeks later, took the car back into the dealership for them to have a look, but it blew cold air during the entire time that the mechanic was looking at it. I specifically asked about the compressor, but he said that it seemed to be fine. Since then, I've been trying to figure out what causes the A/C to stop working.
I haven't been able to find an exact cause, but the A/C will typically blow cold air when the car is not moving or when I am braking. It is also more likely to work if it isn't hot outside (which isn't exactly useful). If I am on the highway, applying the gas, or if it is hot outside, it is much less likely to work. As I am driving, I can hear the A/C click on and off; for example, if I apply the brake, I will hear the A/C click on, and it will blow cold air briefly (around 30sec - 1min or so). To complicate things, recently the A/C has blown fog in addition to cold air. This has happened three times. I'm at a loss for what the issue is...
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Son has a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7 motor. The timing belt broke before we could replace it. Long story short, 24 valves, gaskets, timing belt, water pump, new belt tensioner and new pulleys. The motor is back together. The only problem is when you turn the ignition switch on, it blows the CPU fuse. The only electrical part we replaced was the purge valve.
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This is very weird. A strange noise occurs intermittently. It sort of sounds like a pulley slipping on a steel shaft briefly followed by a brief rattling noise and may or may not blow out fuse number 14 (A/C Pressure switch, backup lamp and daytime running lights, redundant speed control heated pcv, ABS, Reverse park aid, EC Mirror), then the brake light and the ABS light is displayed and the cruise control quits working. It does not ALWAYS blow out the fuse as I discovered yesterday.
The first time it happened (about three months ago) I was doing 75 when it happened and was unable to figure out what it was. Yesterday it happened and I new it was fuse number 14. I replaced the fuse and it happened again within 3 minutes. It may be when I turn the wheel to the left. The first time it happened I was changing lanes, yesterday when it happened I was on a ramp turning to the left. In the driveway it happened as a backed up and turned the wheel to the left. I cannot identify where the noise comes from. After the noise and the blown fuse the truck runs just fine and I can continue to drive.
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Every time I replace the ac fuse it blows again sometimes immediately or later it never last more than a day.
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2 days ago I was driving to a friends house and it started to rain. I put on my wipers and after 5 minutes they stopped working. I pulled over and checked the fuse and it was burnt out. I had a spare 25A fuse and replaced it on the spot. I first check the horn since it's the same fuse connection. The horn worked ok then I went on with the wiper...the second I put on the wipers the fuse blew again not even letting the wiper make one cycle.
Could it be the wiper motors? What should I do other then bring it in. I want to do it myself.
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My father has a 2009 F-150 with almost 25,000 miles. (he leaves it in garage and polishes it weekly) He just purchased a new dual axle trailer with electric brakes and led lights. When we hook up the trailer and press the Brake, turn signal or hazards, we blow a under hood fuse (48 if I remember correctly). When connected to either of his other 2 trailers, everything works and no issues. When I connect my 2014 suburban, the new trailer works perfectly. He does not have a brake controller installed on the F-150 yet. It does have the 7 pin and 4 pin plugs under the bumper.
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This is occurring on a 1997 Land Rover Discovery, but I have read of similar problems on many other "modern" cars. When I start my car, the fuse for dash gauges blows. Then with the blown fuse, the next time I try to start the car, the switch will not activate the startee solenoid relay. If I replace the dash fuse it will start again, but blow the fuse instantly, thus perpetuating the problem. This car is a beater off-road truck and I am willing to just bypass the starter switch and run a hotwired pus-button switch directly to the solenoid. Will this bypass any critical electrical operations? Should I wire the switch through the existing relay, or should I install a completely separate "siolated" relay? I having trouble tracking down how/why the starter solenoid relay would be related to the gauges....and if it is a short in the current starer solenoid circuit, can I just direct wire it to eliminate the problem?
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Background: Sonata 2009 Limited. 165K Miles. Original factory installed everything. Chicago area.
Last week I drove to the mall in the snow. Headlights worked fine. Upon leaving the mall I realized that my low beam headlights were not working.
Purchased and installed one low beam headlight bulb, on the slim chance that both of them simply burned out at the same time. It didn't come on.
Results of an internet search indicated that the fuse might be blown. I pulled the 20amp Low Beam headlight fuse and sure enough it was bad. Put in a new fuse. Turned on the headlights and it blew instantly.
Have been driving with the high-beams the past 5 days. Only one car has "blinked" at me, so driving with the high-beams isn't a problem. Probably because there are so many cars with really bright low-beam headlights these days.
However, I would like some guidance to getting this problem resolved. What are the most likely reasons for the low-beam headlight fuse blowing instantly like this?
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I have a 2010 Kia Forte, which I purchased in late 2011. I had not had the car for very long when I noticed that the left, rear taillight was out. My husband replaced the bulb and it still did not work. This led me to the fuse panel. The fuse was blown so not only the taillight was out, but also the front, left, parking light. I replaced the fuse and the lights came back on. However, within days, the lights were out again. I have replaced the fuse two or three times since then, but each time it blows again within days, so mostly, I am driving around without a tail light. What could be causing the fuse to blow repeatedly?
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I have a 92 st, all stock. It was given to me by a friend that moved. The car was in very good shape before sitting for about two months (I had to go pick it up an hr and a half away, then replace the battery and starter).
The only issue it's had is the heater fan control will blow the circuit when turned on, which will kill my gauges, not to mention no fan. I removed the blower fan and bench tested it, seems fine. And with the fan unplugged, I can turn the switch on without blowing the fuse (it's possible that this plug is the only wiring from that switch, not sure).
My question is, is it possible this switch is short circuited and that's what is causing the fuse to blow? And is it possible this switch could be the source of my battery drain?
I was thinking maybe this was an ongoing thing, because the switch hasn't worked in a year and a half, before I got it. Perhaps this was draining the battery, but wasn't showing up because the car was being driven daily. I'm not sure what to do next but don't want to guess and start buying parts.
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This is for a 2003 GTI, 89,00 miles. Every time I try to use the windshield cleaner the fuse blows for the windshield wipers. I have tried to put in a 25 amp fuse and it worked for a while but still blew. The windshield wiper motor has been replaced.
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Got a 2001 F150 XLT 4x4,4.6L, When you start the vehicle it seems to run a little rough you can drive around with it OK. Soon as you put it in reverse,It starts to really run rough..touch the gas pedal and fuse position #30 blows.
This fuse is for : Passive Anti theft Transceiver, Cluster Ignition Coils, Powertrain Control Module, Relay Coil on Plugs, Radio noise Capacitor, ECC Diode.
I have checked cables and connections, all seem ok...Relays are fine. Nothing seems burnt on the cable running from the engine to the exhaust. I don't see any wire breakage in the tilt Column.
Cant find a short if it is one.. Even removed the aftermarket Remote starter from the circuit ... still blowing that darn fuse.... What to check now, or what it could be?
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My low-pressure hose got a hole in it and now my A/C only blows warm air due to the leaked refrigerant. How to remove the hose at the connections as it is not using standard steel hose clamps.
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This is for a 2003 GTI, 89,00 miles. Every time I try to use the windshield cleaner the fuse blows for the windshield wipers. I have tried to put in a 25 amp fuse and it worked for a while but still blew. The windshield wiper motor has been replaced.
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97 F150 4.2 auto with Simple trans pan gasket change because it was leaking and now the ignition fuse blows every time I turn the key to the on position. Ran fine before now what? can't pull code with reader with key on or off.
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The truck starter and radio would magically turn on and off after the first rain, it was hard on the starter and I had to replace the starter and the cause of that problem was the vacuum line coming from the brake booster running over the top of the wires in the 4 plugs attached to the driver side fender. It rubbed through exposing the wires and got wet connecting them. I cleaned them and put the electrical tape silicone and then it has been working fine for a couple months.
Now every time I try to start fuse #20 blows. So far I have traced the wire that goes through fuse 20 through the firewall being the blue wire with a orange stripe on it it goes through the top plug upper left most wire. From there I followed it through the 4 wheel fender plugs the furthest plug from the firewall still being the blue with orange stripe. If I unplug that plug and try to start the truck it won't start but the fuse does not blow.
I then followed that wire all the way to the neutral safety switch. I hate tracing wires. (About 8 hours so far). I am thinking neutral safety switch. Also another thing I am thinking is weird is that blue wire with the orange stripe is grounded when the safety switch is plugged into the transmission and if it is unplugged is is not grounded. And I don't think it is supposed to be grounded because that is the hot wire when the key is in the start position.
Details about the truck : 1999 f250 diesel 7.3 super duty automatic 4x4 dated 4/99
I have taken pictures of the plugs and wires I was going to post it but don't remember how.
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So I did alot of electrical work on this truck but never had any problems with the brake lights, now they dont work and the fuse blows every time you pop one in.
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My Prius air condition blows hot air sometimes, sometimes it works fine, warm weather seems to increase the problem. Took it to the dealer, they couldn't duplicate problem, said it was fine, but it is obviously not. Where should I start, don't like the replace parts till we figure it out thing. Don't think its the compressor b/c sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Fan is working fine.
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I have a 2003 Honda Odyssey and every time I step on the brake pedal, it blows my STOP fuse under the hood (which takes out my ability to shift out of park, use my horn and the brake lights also go out.) When I replace my fuse, the horn does not blow the fuse, it is stepping on the brake pedal one time, even when in park before turning the key over.
Things I have tried: Changing all of my bulbs and inspecting the socket areas, inspecting most of the wiring and taping areas that seemed fine but might have been touching metal, replacing my brake light switch.
What could be doing this?! I have figured out that I can manually shift out of park using the override slot, but no brake lights is not good.
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Had just got done filling up with diesel, drove 1/4 mile and truck just died. Tried to start it and nothing. No power to edge tuner either. Fuse #22 20a under steering column blown (engine control). Replaced and keeps blowing. not sure what is causing it. Just another wrench to throw in my wedding week!
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