Prius (2004-09) :: ABS Light Came On When Car Started After Strut Replacement
Jun 27, 2016
I replaced my front struts today and afterward the ABS and "(!)" light came on as soon as I turned on the car. I checked the speed sensor lines and they all look okay so I didn't damaged them in the process. The car brakes quite soft but still works and the regenerative braking still works. The mechanic pulled the following codes: C1300 and C1319. I went ahead and reset the ABS light by crossing pin 4 and 13 on the OBD2 connector technique. That reset the lights, and the brake also works as normal as well. After driving around a bit, turned off the car, then turned it back on the lights came back on again.
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I had my friend of mine who is a mechanic change my struts out this weekend. I had clunking noises from the right strut Toyota and also a tire place said I needed new struts. So I got them replaced now both sides are clunking see the YouTube video.
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I've just begun to replace my front struts (Monroe quick strut pre-assembled). The thing is, the top bearing plate bolts and the lower mounting point are out of alignment by 90 degrees. The included directions say they can be rotated but gives no procedure and they do not just "turn" easily obviously. How to rotate them to fit??
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I just replaced all 4 struts on my 04 Camry. The car has 87,000 on it. I went with the Monroe OESpectrum struts and new strut mounts (Monroe). Springs looked fine, the rubber spring seats were fine as well and the bellows, so reused those items.
I now have a noise in the rear end that I did not have before. It sounds like it is coming from the lower part of the car and is not metal sounding. It is a very dull clunk when going over bumps in the road and is coming from both sides.
I replaced the sway bar bushings a couple years ago. I checked those and there is no play and appear to be fine. Also checked the sway bar links and they seem fine to me, but not sure what makes those bad. Torqued what I could. Used an electric impact wrench on the strut nuts and could not torque that because the rod spins.
I am taking it in on Monday for an alignment and to have the shop see if they can figure out the noise. Is it possible that the new parts could be binding and the alignment may take care of it? I have doubled checked my work and everything appears to be on correct.
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2005 Prius, 90k, original battery I think, started beeping on shutdown, then wouldn't start today (cold). Got a new battery, but the back hatch wouldn't open, so I tried to jump it following owner's manual instructions. Headlights came on at first (although stalk switch was off), but doors/car wouldn't respond. Disconnected and reconnected jumpers, lights off this time, still no response when trying doors or starting car.
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My driver side rear strut/shock has started leaking recently (I've attached a pic). Its counterpart on the rear passenger side is bone dry. My Prius is a 2010 with 78,000 miles, mostly city driving.
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I have a 2009 RX350 with 51,000 miles (just 1000 over warranty). The left rear strut developed a bad leak and has begun making the noises associated with the failed strut. I will be changing out both rears and have two questions that I cannot find info for on the web.
1) I noticed the 2 latches on the side covers inside the back area to remove the panel and expose the rear strut tower, are these the only two latches I need to remove to access the upper bolts, or are there hidden screws or things I need to do to remove the panel?
2) What are the torque specs for the rear strut bolts?
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I need to replace these as they are weakening. Can I get replacements at my FLAPS or are they a Toyota-only item? I'm asking because on another vehicle, I could not get the strut from a FLAPS due to the length not being a standard length with the proper connectors.
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My 2006 Prius with now 68,000 miles just had both front wheel bearings replaced today from an independent shop in town with a good reputation.
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My 12v battery died, I tried recharging it etc, but it was dead so I took it to my local Toyota dealer and had the battery replaced.
Because I had the battery off, there was a VSC warning light, which I thought that the Toyota dealer could reset. They re-calibrated all the warning apart from one, they say that the Yaw sensor will not clear it's warning and needs to be replaced.
if I can reset this warning myself, or do I really need to replace this sensor?
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I wanted to replace the bulbs in my map light but ran into some problems. I was able to remove the first see-through plastic cover on the light. Also I was able to twist one of the bulbs out of the socket so it was loose but there didn't seem to be a way to pull the bulbs out of their metal holders. I tried with medium to light pressure on the right side bulb and it slipped from my fingers and jumped back into the area on the other side of the metal holders. Now I can't see it or reach it. What do I need to remove to retrieve the bulb and how do I remove it?
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I was going to put on some lowering spring on my prius last night but i couldnt figure out how to get the top bearing off. Looking for pictures or a guide or something?
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I've been (for the first time) changing my struts on my 08 prius, having read a couple of threads, have manual, etc. The fronts went in fairly easily, but I noticed that when taking out the rear (left), it (the spring) was under a fair amount of compression when it "dropped" out. I was thinking, "how will it go back in once I swap out the strut?".... Also, it seems to me that the stud/spindle is in the way, making it very difficult to get the strut back in as well. I believe I have the vehicle jacked up in the same manor that Patrick Wong shows, with the 2x4 under the axle, and a 2nd jack as well. What is the trick to get this back in???
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My left driver side parking light is out.
Can you get to that light to replace it easily, without removing bumper, etc??
And if so, what kind of bulb does it take??
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Last night was cold, when I started the car this morning, the orange snowflake light is on. What does it mean? If I still drive, whether will harm the car? how I can remove it?
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Looking to replace my strut and spring assembly on my 2007 Camry LE with 130,000 miles. What is the best China units out there. The list is many Prime Choice, Detriot Axle, Unity, FCS, AST, Sensen, ect.... Maybe they all are made at the same factory. FYI Monroe and Gabriel could be made in China. KYB complete units are assembled in USA, I called them up.
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So I changed the front struts, springs, mounts, bearings, etc with factory Toyota parts. The car is a 2007 Camry LE 4 cyl with over 200k miles. While the car does not pull to one side, the steering wheel is now at roughly the 2 o'clock position for the car to be driving straight. Nothing else was changed, replaced, or modified. I do notice the car sits much higher now than it did before (old struts leaked oil and needed to be changed).
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I recently replaced my factory struts with KYB's all in one solution. I also did the craft felt mod that HardTop suggested. Ever since they have been replaced I'm getting a weird noise. When I turn the steering wheel in either direction it makes a rubbing sound that is very audible. The vehicle drives fine, and the struts ride really well. However, the noise is a touch annoying.
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I ran over a rather large pot hole while driving home in the middle of the night. It destroyed my tire and tire sidewall and soon after the strut started to make a knocking noise while going over bumps. I replaced both front strut assemblies with Monroe Quick Struts (photo attached). After the install, the noise was gone and everything seemed good so I gave the car to my wife. After several months, I decided to drive the car to see if everything was still OK and it wasn't. The knocking noise on the driver front strut came back.
I took the car back to my mechanic and he said that he thinks the strut assembly was defective and that I should get a replacement since it was under warranty. I would just pay labor again for him to change it. Something seemed off by the conversation, so I decided to take the car to another mechanic for a second opinion, but before I do that I want to pose this question here. What could be the problem? Why did the knocking noise come back?
I've attached more photos. You will see two photos of the tops of the strut assemblies from under the hood. The first top photo is of the passenger left strut that is good (with the wheels straight). The second top photo is of the problematic driver front strut. You can see the top is slanted left with the wheels straight. The rest of the photos are from around the driver side wheel.
I did complete a wheel alignment after the install and the car pulls left when the steering wheel is straight after the alignment.
More information about the Monroe Quick Strut: [URL] .....
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Took my 2004 Honda CRV 2W Drive to my local dealer for the 90K maintenance. There they recommended for me to replace the front shocks strut assembly--not quite remembering the reason but they told me that it needs to get done. Before I get the work done, I am trying to find as much info on what next steps to take.
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I bought a 2005 prii with 145k miles about a month ago and have since driven it 1,200 miles. A few days ago, the red triangle light came on when I started the car in the morning. I had to get to work so I unplugged the negative on the 12v and reconnected it. It started and it drove just fine. I get off work and the same thing happens. I did the same thing and drove home just fine. I then ordered a optima yellow top from elearnaid and it was shipped and arrived in 1 day!!!
I installed the battery this morning and called the dealer to notify them of my situation. The light didn't come on so I thought it may just be the 12v. But of course I didn't wanna run out of warranty and then the hv battery completely goes bad. The dealer tells me to bring it in and I did. They "diagnosed" the car and could not "repeat" what had happened to me. They said because I unplugged the 12v, it erased any codes. I thought it's always saved on the ECU? anyways, I told them about installing a new 12v battery and they said, "that must be it." I'm at 147k miles right now and I don't want my 150k / 10 year warranty to expire before something really goes wrong with the hv battery.
Am I just screwed and hope for the best for miles to come? Or is there a Toyota number I can call to tell them of the situation? I'm almost hopeful that it was only because of the 12v but at the same time, I have doubts.
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