Prius (2004-09) :: A/C Malfunction - Damaging The Battery?
Jul 14, 2014
My A/c has been on the fritz for a while, and I've just been dealing with sweating in the Florida summer until I had the money to get it fixed. Now this morning I start my car after getting gas, and it throws the dreaded POA80. My fiance's 2004 HV pack just went bad about a month ago, but her's has 236k miles on it. My 2005 is only at 98k. I haven't heard my HV fan kick on in the back seat at all, but it does seem to be having a hard time charging. Is there anyway the dealer is going to try to say that me not getting my A/C fixed is the cause of my faulty HV battery? Is there any way that that is the cause of the pack going bad??
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I let the Prius sit for 3 days over the long weekend, and on Monday it would not start. Got a big red triangle exclamation mark on the dash. Figured it was the 12V battery going, so I replaced it with the Optima Yellowtop. Took it all apart, put it back together. Charged the yellowtop using a Schumacher automatic battery charger made for AGM batteries. Run fine around the block, so I figured it was good.
My wife took the car to work this morning. Said the ride in was just fine. Locked it and went into work. When she came out at break, it wouldn't open. Completely dead. I walked her through using the metal key to open the door, and she says it is all dark, nothing happens when she pushes the start button. We have the SKS, of course.
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Original battery died after 5 years service. I replaced battery but discover that certain electronics don't function correctly. Windows and door locks are messed up. Driver control won't operate front passenger window; but rears are OK. Driver door lost "one touch up/down" function. Door locks are sketchy. Question: is there some re-booting or re-programing needed that I can do? Dealer only item?
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Error messages on my dash were originally the triangle exclamation and - p lock malfunction when parking , park in a flat place and apply parking brake securely ....
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Against my better judgement I picked up the ex wifes 2001 Prius after the "mechanic" she took it to ran the HV battery dead. I picked up two Gen II batteries and built me a good battery. Then I cleaned all the corrosion off the harness and terminals and put the HV battery back in. The engine spins but dies. There are no engine codes but under the HV ECU cattegory I get a {P3106 communication malfunction, engine > HV}. I had a spare HV ECU and swapped it and get the same code. Spare engine ECU and the same code also. Not sure where to go from here. How to check voltages at the ECM ?
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I tried to turn on my car this morning, but the "Ready" sign didn't go on. The whole display is black. "Check Engine" sign blinked briefly. Battery display shows the battery is "green". Everything else works - cd/radio/bluetooth, etc. As I tried to start it, the screen showed that the engine briefly charged the Prius battery, then it was all quite. I tried to wait and restart a few times, but still the display was all black and no "ready" sign. I WAS able to still move the car, but I didn't chance to drive it out of the garage. I just had it serviced (oil/fluid change). Small battery was replaced in July.
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My 2004 Prius won't start for the first time in its 45,000 miles. First try only the malfunction indicator lamp went on. After a pause and a few tries later, the fuel gauge and gear indicator cluster flashed on and off while I was attempting to start (fuel indicator racing across its grid and gear indicators outlined with "dotted" lines -- tank is 1/2 full BTW).
Later tries got no response except the malfunction lamp. I tried both keys in the ignition, also checked door lock functions, and found the keys will still lock the doors, but the click is noticeably weak and the unlock function doesn't work.
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I have a 2008 Prius with about 34,000 miles. While I was driving yesterday the malfunction indicator lamp came on. I returned home (was 20 miles away), but did not notice anything wrong while driving. Thanks to Priuschat, I found discussions that said to check if the gas cap was on correctly; sure enough, mine was not on tightly. I've just put the cap back on, but when I started the car, the malfunction indicator still came on. Will the warning light clear on it's own (if the problem was the gas cap).
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Problem and background: for PRIUS 2004 Gen 2 , 157000 km, not getting READY to drive.
1.Warning signals on Power ON, red triangle, yellow color engine, brake, ABS, skidding. Also the PARKING BRAKE RED signal (by the side of seat belt warning signal), does not disappear even if I release the foot brake.
2. Gear can move to N and parking P only, can't move to Drive D or Reverse R. No READY symbol,
3. I left the car in that location in open for a month, during heavy rain. But after coming back , the car had no issue and I was driving for 4 days before this issue started.
what I have tried:
1.Have removed the 12 Volt battery terminals and connected back, just to see if the errors disappear. No change. But did not check the battery voltage or suspect it . disconnected and connected the HV service plug.(orange color lever behind rear passenger seat).
2. Have been switching ON and off the car for 1 full day, First day the local Toyota service (non-prius), came to connect to OBD late evening, he switched on the interior lights and left doors open, within 10-15 minutes the lights started dimming. Before he could pull the information, all shutdown and 12V battery down. his measurement at battery without removing any terminal showed 3.6V.
3. The second day took the battery out and charged at local battery service guy for 6 hrs, he say's charged at 3A, the indicator showed green, that means fully charged, his measurement with no load 12V. After connecting to the car myself, checked the voltage at display by putting to diagnostic mode, showed 12 volts (only with display on) with headlight on and pressing brake drops to 11.6volt. IS THAT OK?
4. The third day got the new battery and replaced, showed the same voltage 12/11.6v, but I can't be 100% sure if that is a brand new battery, the box was open, and since the car didn't start, the battery sales person has taken back the new battery in the same box. I connected back the old battery, it was holding the same voltage. SHOULD I still SUSPECT BATTERY?
5. I can make the READY indication blink twice, if I press hard the brake pedal and hold the POWER button few seconds, during this time I can hear CLICKING NOISE behind at HV BATTERY SERVICE PLUG grip? does that say something?
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Customer's car died about 2 hours from me. What this could be? It is at a shop now, and I walked them through how to test the main fusable link in the engine bay, and they said it was good. They also checked the 12v battery and that tested good. Here is what happened.
The customer was driving, then he said the triangle of the death and check engine light came on. Then, he kept driving for a little while and then all the sudden everything went dark and he coasted to the shoulder. The car hasn't had the inverter coolant pump recall done, so I am leaning towards that. The car's dome lights come on, the key can unlock and lock the car, but if you slide the key in and press the power button, nothing happens. What on earth would cause that?
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It's one of those days again when the temps are starting to get hot here in Austin, Tx. My AC started acting up during the Spring and first started working fine then after about 10-15 minutes of driving the air starts to blow warmer. The air doesn't go back to cold unless the car has been parked and off for several hours or overnight, and even after that it only blows cold for 10-15 mins again.
Well, I didn't have the time/money to mess with it. The recent May it stopped cooling completely. I recently took it to a local shop and we look at it together. Drained the system and the mechanic was saying it's pulling some air and a little refrigerant. Well, we recharged the system and we could only put in 0.5 lbs and the Low side just maxes out. The system is supposed to hold 1.06 lbs so we were left scratching our heads.
Decided to check for leaks, discharged the system again and hooked up a vacuum pump and see if the gauges will go below 0 for negative pressure and they never did. So the shop doesn't think my system has a leak. They could have used a dye to check but didn't have any on the shelf at that moment.
I also have a DTC code of B1476 and we followed the shop manual. Fans blow into the engine and sometimes we had the bubble but couldn't add more refrigerant due to the Low side being maxed.
My father thinks I most likely have a blockage somewhere in the system. If so, how I can check for this? Is there a specific place or two I can look to find out the system is blocked?
Some people on the form seem to have AC problems, including some with the B1476, and others that couldn't find the problem very well. I'm worried that replacing the compressor wouldn't solve the problem, especially if there is a blockage or something. I usually do a lot of mechanic work but I've never actually worked on an AC system before. I would love to dive into this, even if I can only do part of it and then send it to the Toyota dealer for a flush and charge.
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I have a 2004 Prius with 80k miles. Always has been a workhorse. Recently had a bad cell in the HV battery. Battery rebuilt with new cell and now works great.
Now it runs about 20 miles and then displays dash lights of red triangle and small exclamation (brake?) and VSC.
I took it to Advance Auto and their scanner reads C1310 'Malfunction in HV system'.
I actually replaced the entire HV battery again with the battery from my friend's car, and the 12V battery too, but no luck. Same error.
If i disconnect the 12v battery for a while, it will clear the code and the car runs fine for about 20 miles and then dash lights come on again.
Car runs perfectly, over 50mpg even with the dash lit up. What that code is?
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I got this exact warning Monday which is discussed in this thread (linked below) and its problem was a bad inverter water pump while mine seems fine: . Also in the linked thread another whom had gotten the exact warning, but inverter pump was not the problem, believed it meant the Hybrid battery was bad and replaced it. , but mine, at least for now, as discussed below, seems fine.
was about to make a trip, 140 miles, gassed up and when leaving station all these (quoted below) warning lights came on. and the car should have been operating in cold condition still as gas station was only a few miles from home. :
Master Warning Light, Malfunction Indicator, VSC, (!), and Hybrid System Warning on Screen.
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I got a problem this morning my car was juddering when I tried to accelerate my Toyota Prius 2004. When it's over 40MPH the car runs smoothly. After few hours it increased and now its jerking and juddering big time. Also when my car is moving the "Traction Control light" flashed even on dry tar roads. When I try to run from the battery the car runs smoothly at any speed. Also on neutral, the car idles fine and no juddering. Since few months I felt like the clutch plates are slipping and engine revs high than normal only when it's running on gas. Seems to be okay on battery.
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I saw a really weird thing happen about half an hour ago. Hadn't driven that car today until I made a quick trip a bit ago to pick something up.
As I was coming back from the store I noticed the display was showing extremely low numbers with barely any speed/coasting. After I got up to ~30mph and started slowing down, I noticed the display was actually showing the mpg decrease as I applied the brake.
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I just had my 2007 Prius serviced. After the service, my car broke down within 10km of the shop. The shop determined that the air flow meter had malfunctioned and wants to charge me about $500 to replace the part. Could the air flow meter have been damaged when the vehicle was being serviced? Specifically, when the air filter was removed and inspected during the servicing. It seems plausible that shop did something to cause the problem.
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I have a 2008 Prius. I drove it around in Florida for a few days and everything ran great, but about 4 hours into the trip back to Minnesota, the red ! triangle light came on with a message on the display screen. It said "There is a problem with the transmission "P" lock mechanism Park your your car on a flat surface and fully apply the parking brake." This happened as I was driving, so I pulled over and did what it told me. After shutting down the car, I tried starting it back up and none of the gears worked. P, R, D, or B.
The message still displayed and the red ! light was still on. After shutting it on off several times, it finally started. No warnings. I found the nearest Toyota dealer and had them check it out. They found nothing but one short circuit, around the same time the warning lights would have gone on. I googled the problem, and it seemed like everyone was saying the problem is caused by a bad 12V battery, so I told the dealer to put in a new one. I was on the road again. However, the first stop I made for gas and sure enough, the light came back and I couldn't get it into a gear without restarting the car several times. I just hope I won't need to spend any more money on this 2 year old car.
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My check engine light has come on twice now and I'm getting a p0505 code, idle air control malfunction. It seems as though there could be a couple causes for this. All my hoses seem tight, so the cheap fix seems out of the question. What could the other causes be, and more importantly, about how much for a shop to fix it. I have a 2006 with 155,000 miles on it.
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check engine light came on. Had the code checked and its the code that comes on whhen you dont tighten your cap. Checked fuel cap and the person noticed that the little spring loaded door that is usually pushed open by the fuel nozzle is gone. So my question is three fold:
1) will this door that is now in my gas tank hurt my car?
2) will this lack of door keep tripping this error code? i live in the Milwaukee area where they check emissions so i cant have that
3) how much is this going to be to fix? I am guessing they can just replace the door or the top part of the fueling system where I put the nozzle in.
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I just returned from a 4K trip through 7 states and my cruise control will go batty and make you pull over and re-boot the car. Basically I am cruising down the interstate with cruise control on. When I come into a town I will either pull the cruise lever forward or step on the brakes to disengage it.
The traffic comes to a stop or slows to a crawl for a short period of time. Once the traffic starts to move again and we are back to highway speeds I can no longer use the cruise control because it is intermittently flashing on the dash as a malfunction. The only time it doesn't do this is when I am slowing down if I turn the power off to the cruise control system.
I stopped in the middle of my trip at two different dealers and there were no codes stored. One dealer charged me a diagnostic the second didn't after I showed him my receipt from the day prior from the other dealer but then he wanted to sell me a brand NEW MFD.
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I have an 08 prius with about 36k miles on it. Never had a problem other then getting the water pump replaced under warranty during scheduled maintenance.
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