Prius (2004-09) :: 2011 - ABS Fault - Car Not Starting?
Mar 18, 2013
I have the problem with my Prius 2011 year. The car have the accident and not starting. It was a lot of problem with hybrid system, transmission, air bag, engine room. Now I bought new engine control computer, airbag and transmission control from Toyota dealer. now I want to start my Prius but he not starting. NO fault codes in hybrid system, engine control, transmission. Only in anti-brake system. All wiring is good but are some fault
1) C1203 ECM communication circuit malfunction
2) C1231 Steering angle sensor circuit
3) C1247 stroke sensor
4) C1345 linear solenoid valve offset learning undone
5) C1392 zero point calibration of stroke sensor undone.
And i want to now how to synchronize my engine control because in ECM information not write my car model ZVW---. I read some forum it's necessary to tether the engine computer.
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I couldn't start my car this morning. It is a Toyota Prius 2011 model. When I turned on the start button, these lights were on, but I couldn't start the engine. There is a zzz sound when I turn it on. What went wrong?
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We've got a 2011 Prius with a little over 24k miles on it . For the last few months we've been having issues with it starting. First I thought the remote barriers were dying so I replaced them , I thought my wife might have been trying to start it incorrectly till the problem happened to me a few weeks ago. What happens is you try to start it (foot on brake, press power button) and all the warming lights pop up , radio turns on , navigation turns on but car doesn't start. This morning it happend just once , yesterday I had to try it maybe 10x before it finally started up. The dealership had it last Saturday and of course it started every time for them and they couldn't duplicate the problem , they also said they ran whatever tests they do on it and it didn't turn up a problem. FWIW we had the software recall update done in June.
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I have just joined, and posted as below, not sure where it went though so here it is again. As I suspect with many others newbies I am posting to try and solve a problem. I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent diesel (with only 54000 on the clock) which worked OK for over a year. I now has an intermittent starting fault. It played up in the winter, fiddled with the fuel filter and was OK for months, also had it serviced beginning of year. It then played up again a few times recently so had the fuel filter changed. Now worse than ever! This model does not have glow plugs, apparently a fuel heater. If starts 1st time works perfectly. Otherwise it can take up to 10 times to start. Seems no particular circumstances. Usually starts from cold but I do a lot of stop start driving. Took back to local garage and they couldn't get it not to start! Started ok 3 times this morning only to stop on the 4th. I fiddle with the fuel filter and connections and it goes, but this could be pure co-incidence?
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I went outside and started my car yesterday morning and it was 20-25 degrees out and the car had a hard time turning over. Upon starting the dash computer read: Fault: Traction Control. Its a 14 GTI with about 1600 miles on it, could it have been not getting all 12 volts upon start up?
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Seems like issues with my 06 prius battery are back, however this time it is rather strange but very predictable. I cannot read any trouble code as the red triangle on the dash (and "problem" on the display) never stays on more than a few seconds (1-5 seconds at most).
At first it was doing this only after long downhill driving (like my 1.5 mile downhill street at 25 mph) - charging the battery and once getting to the last green bar I would get a Bip, red triangle and "problem" on the display. This has been going on for 4 weeks roughly.
But it's gradually getting worse, the same symptoms would appear after shorter downhill driving. And now it does almost every time I get the foot of the accelerator (assuming the car has decent momentum to regenerate).
I am guessing a module is starting to fail but last time I had a failed block, it didn't do that. One day I got the red triangle along with a bunch of other lights and that was it.
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2008 Prius recently lost acceleration (would only creep along) and soon stopped. Warning lights - red triangle with !, red split car on mid, check engine - came on. About 10 minutes later the car started and allowed my daughter to creep the last 1/4 mile home. DTC's - P0A3F and P2196. Was recently gassed up, so checked gas cap, thinking it may have set the oxygen sensor code. It was loose, tightened it. Pulled the EFI fuse for a couple minutes to reset the codes (not sure it did). Put the smart key back in and warning lights came on again. May have to take to dealer, but would like to have some notion as to what's causing this. Possibly related -- a couple weeks ago the 12V battery got drained overnight. Pulled it and recharged and everything seemed to be running fine.
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My daughter recently bought a 2006 Prius with 170K, Car was running great at purchase time with no issues but unfortunately the honeymoon was short lived. Less than 50 miles, she got the check engine light and red triangle. Car seems to still to drive fine. Had a dealer near Knoxville TN pull the codes and the only code was a P0A9C - Hybrid Battery Temperature (Sensor A) Range / Performance. Was informed also as they checked history on the car that another dealer had recommended a new hybrid battery and inverter. Dropped by the other dealer today to get the codes that they had seen. The codes they had pulled at 169K on the vehicle were:
P0A80 - HV Battery Cell Delta State of Charge Fault.
P3016 - either a bad cell, or a shorted cell in the hybrid battery
P0A08 - dc/dc converter status circuit.
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I own a 2014 F-150 XLT 3.5 L 6 cyl Twin. Saturday afternoon I tried to start the truck once and it didn't start like it normally does. It started on the second try, but the A/C didn't work and I got a "Starting System Fault" warning on my screen. When I shut the truck off, it would not start at all. All the lights and gauges worked, just no start.
Had to tow it to Ford Dealer, where the service department had already closed for the day (of course). Today it was determined by the service department that the Body Control Module had malfunctioned. I was told that the tech tapped on the control module and the truck started. Now waiting two days for a replacement part to come in. Luckily, I'm just under 36K miles and three years. Is this a common occurrence?
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This morning when I sit in my prius, engaged brake and pressed ON, I was surprised that the car was not starting. In fact in was in a status between OFF and IG-ON mode. The cabin lights were on, so as the head lights. The dash was lighted, but weird: the fuel indicator shown empty, though it was filled two days ago and the central screen was not lighted, so it was not the IG-ON mode in which the central screen should be lighted.
I cannot switch from the P mode, and I don't remember whether I saw the "ready" on the dash. I turned the system OFF and repeated the procedure but it was on the same situation. I was a bit panic, looking at the manual and after few minuets I decided to try again. And surprisingly it backed to normal. I drove it all the way to work and didn't notice anything wrong.
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I have a 2008 Prius. I noticed that a large red triangle displayed briefly on the left when I started my car the other day. I know all the other smaller icons light up briefly but I don't remember the large red triangle lighting up. It and all the other icons go off after a second or two. Then the next time I started the car there was no red triangle. Then maybe the 3rd time I started the car, the large red triangle did again appear briefly. I took my car to my Toyota dealership but the tech said that is normal and means a door must be open, but that cannot be correct. I make sure all doors are closed and the "Open door" icon is not showing. I have already been through the water coolant inverter pump disaster so I admit I am a little paranoid about any funny things showing on my dash.
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I driving 2011 Sonata. Check engine light was ON while driving, which are fault P0741, TORQUE CON CLUTH ABNORMAL. The light sometimes ON, and sometime will OFF while driving, is it any problem?
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Starting to use or burn oil after hitting 180K..... a tech said that maybe need a clean out...
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I experienced some weirdness trying to jump start a friends 2001 Prius and the 100 amp fuse got blown. I read the user manual and am pretty positive that I did not reverse polarity on the auxiliary battery, with the jumper cables. But as soon as I hooked up the cables the headlights and taillights came on, as well as both turn signal lights steady on, and I couldn't turn them off. I checked and checked. The key wasn't in. All the headlight switches were off. I just couldn't figure it out. After trying to let the auxiliary battery charge for a while this way, the car was still totally dead and it was weird and I gave up.
The next day my friend called AAA and they couldn't start it either. But she said they were pretty clueless, refusing to believe at first that the battery was in the trunk, and suspects maybe they reversed the polarity on the cables when they tried to jump it. She didn't see the headlights come on this time (although it was now during the day).
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What the warning lights mean (red triangle with exclamation mark inside, and yellow icon upper left of display, 2005 Gen II)? It comes on after starting the ICE, used to come on intermittently, now it's all the time... my hunch is the suspension because the ride has been getting worse, with unusually loud sound from the wheels over potholes!
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I have a recently purchased 2005 Prius- Mileage-150.3k having several lights on the dash: ABS/VSC/Engine Check/ Brakes, etc. See attached screen shot. Initially, I got into the shop and had the codes read out several codes. In all, I was informed the root cause was a bad 12v and bad hybrid batteries. By this time , the car was still moving, though not very smoothly. however, less than a week thereafter, the car couldn't start again.
We decided to replace the 12v first, hoping to get it back to start but it wouldn't. I've checked the fuses in the engine compartment as well as on the steering column- all okay. I've checked battery voltage, it's now at 12.3v. When I try to start, the Ready light would simply flash for 2-3 seconds before going off. I've rechecked battery connections as well as the brake controls by the 12v battery- all well tightened.
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My Prius has 150k miles on it. We didn't drive it for a few days and when we went to turn it on,it wouldn't work. We were able to jump start it a couple of times, however after that we ended up having to replace the battery. We purchased it brand new from toyota. Then, the car wouldn't do a thing (No sounds, no lights, other than the red amber power button and the flashing check engine light, which was not on before.) We ended up having two blown fuses and we replaced them today, one was for the battery.Now the lights are on, but the car still won't start. It will cost over $200 to have the car towed and I am really trying to avoid that right now. I don't know much at ALL about cars. but I'm trying.
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Thursday afternoon I drove about 120 miles total in my 2004. At about 40 miles I left my wife to shop and drove on to 3-4 other stops for myself and then came back to pick her up for the 40 mile drive home. When she got into the passenger seat, she found that the carpet & mat on the floor were sopping wet, so we put some heavy towels over the wet area to protect her shoes. When we got home (with NO operational issues), I removed the passenger floor mat, put several thicknesses of more heavy towels on the carpet and placed 2 concrete blocks on the towels to soak up the water.
On Friday, I changed the towels and did not use the car. Saturday, I removed the towels, concrete blocks, and went to start the car so I could see if there was water dripping from under the dash from a plugged condensate drain, since I had not driven in rain or water on Thursday. The dash displayed every warning light imaginable including "check engine", hybrid system warning, slip indicator, brake system warning, Master warning (!), VSC, Maint reqd. Now it is Sunday and I still cannot get to the "Ready" light so I can start the car. My traction battery condition was solid green yesterday, solid blue today. The radio, interior lights, A/C fan, door locks, etc. all work.
Could there be anything under the passenger carpeting (or behind the dash which might have gotten wet which could be causing these problems/codes?
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When trying to drive my car out of the garage this weekend, it started backing up and then it stopped. It would also not do anything when I put it in drive. Next, the engine cut out. It would only stay on for a few seconds when starting it up again. It continued to do this. I had the car brought to my local mechanic who specializes in foreign cars. He called me today and said my car will not talk to the computer. He stated it must be the hybrid battery. He told me I need to take it to a Toyota dealer. My question is how to know if this battery is truly out and there is not another problem? I have a 2001 Prius.
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I bought a used 2011 Ford Escape Ltd. which now has 21000 miles on it. The tire pressure sensor indicated a tire was low (it was), and I filled it. Now I intermittently get a message of "Tire pressure sensor fault." The dealer checked it when they changed the oil but it's still coming on, usually when I'm at high speed. It goes off again by itself. Is it important for me to do something?
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I have a 2011 Camry. The last few weeks, I've had an intermittent issue with the AC not initializing properly on engine startup and I get no AC. The AC light will be on, the blower works normally, but changing the AC/heat blend dial has no effect, I get full heat no matter what the setting.
The only way to make the AC come back on is turn the car off and restart. On ignition, instead of the climate control cluster lights and the blower coming on immediately, the rear defrost light will blink amber for about 10 seconds before the climate control system initializes and usually, the AC will come on at that point.
I had it into the shop and they could not figure out what was going on. No computer codes. They finally said the compressor current was spiking over spec and replaced it. However, two days later and it's happening again, worse than ever in that it took like six restarts for the system to initialize properly this morning after I pulled over because I was getting roasted.
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