Prius (2004-09) :: 2009 - Braking Not Working Properly
May 4, 2014
I have a 2009 Prius base model, and I've been having two different brake problems.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2009 Prius base model, and I've been having two different brake problems.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius gen II with 50,000 miles on it. I took it for MOT ministry of transport annual test and it failed on rear brakes. The near side puled 82kg the off side puled 242kg I puled the pads and copper slipped the pads and sliders the piston pushed bake with ease reassembled them and re tested them witch increased the near side by 5kg. How did you rectify it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2004 bought in 2003. It recently logged its first 100k miles. My problem with it is not easy to describe. It is actually running more like a non-hybrid car. I can feel and tell the hybrid system is operational, and I can hear the electric motor whine when coasting, down, etc. However, I don't think it is running as it should or as it used to. It happened on highway while cruising about 70 mph. I hit the accelerator to pass someone, and I felt that something changed. I'll try to describe it: think of a half-clogged pipe. The water can barely gets past the obstruction. You keep applying pressure, and suddenly the clog dissolves under pressure, and water begins to flow freely, and the pressure goes down. So it felt like that. Now the accelerator pedal is lighter, car is faster to respond, yet I think something is wrong because the car isn't itself anymore.
I don't like problems like these because they are very difficult to diagnose, let alone fix. For a while I also have not heard the inverter pump whine after shutting the car off as I did in the past, but the last time I got out of the car today I heard it. I believe it was replaced five years ago after a collision with a Trailblazer wiped out half of the front end ( but with no power train damage). I checked the VIN for the inverter pump campaign, but my VIN was not in the range.
Right now my problem is that the car feels a lot faster than it has ever been. When I lift off the accelerator, it doesn't begin to coast as it used to. No warning light of any kind out of the ordinary is present on the dash, although it did have the red triangle on during start up with a message about the parking gear not being engaged properly. That warning went away after the change in performance occurred. Related?
I guess I will take it to the dealer to see if there are any codes stored. After my 30 mile commute this morning, no whining, buzzing or any kind of noise was present after I shut off the car and I got out. There is still no warning light.
I have a 2009 Prius. Last summer I noticed that the outside temperature gauge was not working properly. I asked at the wonderful dealership I go to and no one knew anything.
View 10 RepliesMy 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4 truck's anti-lock braking system is not working properly. When I slow down for a stop my anti-lock brakes kick in every time for about 1 or 2 seconds. What can I do to stop this from happening.
View 2 RepliesWhen stuck in traffic jams, and my 2004 Prius shows 2 bars on the HV battery charge, it attempts to start the engine to maintain the charge on the HV battery. What was happening was the engine would attempt to start and then it would immediately die. It would keep repeating this process, over and over again, and would not charge the HV battery. Once I started driving out of the traffic jam, the engine ran fine and it charged up the HV battery while I was moving down the road. I decided to clean the throttle body. My charging problem did change due to me cleaning the throttle body. Instead of starting and immediately dying, over and over again, the engine no longer dies.
It now revs up, and slows back down to idle over and over again when sitting still with 2 bars of charge. The display does not show any charging going on during this revving up and slowing down episode. I need some more hints as to what to check out. I am studying electrical diagrams of the vehicle, but I need a synopsis of which system starts the engine for HV charging, and which system keeps the engine revving at the same RPMs during charging while not in motion. The throttle body cleaning made my 257 K mile Prius run like a scared deer again. I just need to get her charging while sitting still again. 12 volt charging system is in the 14+ volt range and 12 volt battery with no load is around 12.2 volts.
We spend summers away and our 06 Prius stays in the garage. I connect a battery minder and it keeps the 12v battery charged with no problem. I also turn off the switch under the steering column that works with the remote.
When I started the car after two months and driving for a few blocks, I noticed the MFD showed the battery at a low of two purple lines. After a while, it charges up normally. The car has 47000 miles and the 12 v battery has never been changed. Would that have something to do with it or am I being concerned over nothing?
How do you know if the inverter coolant pump/reservoir is bad after the recall was performed?Since it doesn't produce any codes but can reduce the electric-drive if getting too hot, how do you convince Toyota to give it a second look?
View 5 RepliesI have a corolla 2010 S and I think the blower is not working properly. It work in all speeds but in the max speed (4) you could hear and feel that the air flow varies. There is a little noise coming from the glove compartment. I already change the cabin air filter and still do it. I have to change the blower ?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 camry with sunroof my overhead console is not working properly there is a 2007 camry console for sale that looks the same,my question is will it fit and work properly?
View 1 RepliesI have only had my truck a few days and have a problem with the remote start.
It worked great for the first few days, but now this.
This morning i was in the house and tried to remote start. Lock, then the 2x button 2 times. truck beeped at me. So i did it again and again. Nothing but the truck honking at me. So i tried, unlock, lock 2x. Still honked at me.
THen i went out in the cold 5 ft from the truck and it did the same thing. so i climbed in started the truck manually, then shut it off , got out locked the doors. Then i did the lock, 2x two times and the truck fired up.
Been having an issue lately with the AC system on my 2010 4.6L F150. The AC system is not working properly and is only blowing air the same temp as outside. In other words, if its 60 degrees in the morning the AC will blow cool, but later in the day its blowing warm. Pushes air no problem, but living in Florida, it's mainly warm air. Compressor clutch is kicking on and off fairly rapidly when on max AC setting (5-10 seconds on, then 5-10 seconds off). Hooked up gauge to low pressure side and the readings were 60psi WITH compressor on, then fell to 30psi when the compressor turns off. Where to start? Haven't done too many AC fixes before. Potentially a bad compressor? Overcharged lines?
View 7 RepliesMy wife drives a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited which we bought new back in 09. she has put roughly 140,000 miles in that time span. We have religiously followed all required maintenance routines; this is the first major issue we have EVER had with our Santa Fe. The issue we are having involves the AC unit. Instead of blowing ice cold air, the air vents are blowing hot air as if the heater is on. I have check all major AC components and everything is working properly. I believe we are having a controls issue.
At one point, all vents would only blow hot air. The other day, the passenger side vents started blowing ice cold air while the driver side still blew hot air. The driver's side has not blown cold air since this issue started about a week ago. We do have dual climate control; I have tried every possible combination of controls to see if it's a particular switch or button; however, I have not had much luck.
I have a 2011 f150 xl with the basic climate system. I'm having a couple issues with my hvac system. Initially when I took over payments on this truck I was getting a little popping noise under the dash that would go away after a couple pops. I took the bezel off to look at the radio and how it was mounted for a separate issue when I put everything back together I started the truck and now that popping is constant (it is the blend motor actuator, I've already determine that and have a new one coming) the other issue I got is that now the ac will only blow through defrost no matter what button I push. When I start up it will blow out the defrost like the flap is in default then it will blow out of the dash for a few seconds and then go back to blowing out of the defrost. I still have speed control tho I don't have 1 ,which I didn't have before that, and I haven't tried temp yet but I'm assuming it still works. Do the newer trucks still use vacuum to control the flaps or is it all electronic? I've noticed when I look at the actuators they all have a plug end instead of a vacuum port. And would the defrost vent issue be a dash control issue or would it be the actuator for that one a
s well?
Well, just a little history of what'd happened to my Prius 1 month ago; I've got rear-ended and was shunted forward and hit the car in front of me, so the damages were both bumpers at back (more severe) and front (slight damage to the front number plate). Got it back last Thursday and it all looked fine and well, until today where I was being asked to show off the IPA at work, and it is not working properly, in fact it is not working at all.
View 19 RepliesI have a check engine light on. The code it's throwing out is P0455 which is EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large) My gas cap is on tight so it's not that. I'm not sure if it's my N80 Valve or if something else in the fuel system is wrong. For the record I did replace my fuel pump about 2 weeks before the light came on if that has anything to do with it.
View 2 Repliesmy nav system in my 06 has started acting all goofy on me. a few weeks ago while heading down to LBI I looked at the screen and it said I was driving in the ocean. I shook my head and went to our house which I've been to hundreds of times so it wasn't like I needed it. the next day it figured out where it was (meaning it actually knew its location and it showed on the screen). I forgot to mention that the nav thought I was somewhere off the coast of Massachusetts around cape cod
fast forward to now.....no hiccups up until today......I went out for a few and everything was fine with the nav but I just went to drop my kids off and it was claiming I was a few miles north-west of my actual location.
is there anyway to reset and recalibrate it? I have seen the recalibrate option but I have messed around with it yet. i personally feel that the nav unit in my ex is useless and rely on my Garmin but still......I'd like it to at least show my actual location. i just used the "search" button but I still haven't really found and answer.
My wife's 2004 Ford Taurus has been acting up. It shudders sometimes at stoplights and also while driving sometimes. The auto parts store plugged in the computer and said it was the torque converter not working properly. We took it to "The Answer" in Evansville, Indiana for their advertised free diagnosis. They checked it out and told us basically the same thing. The torque converter was acting up. (Slipping? Catching? I don't remember the exact details...)
They said the remedy would be a big expensive job (install rebuilt transmission? Replace torque converter?). Is there anything we can do to prolong the inevitable such as fluid, filter change...flush...additive? We are resigned to the fact that we will need to buy another vehicle but wonder if we should buy one now since the Taurus may only last another few weeks or can we put off buying another car because the Taurus may last another six to twelve or more months.
My a/c recently is not blowing the same amount of air thru the cabin. Thought it was the cabin air filter because I was recently in some really dusty conditions. The compressor under the hood (and both lines) run very cold, but cabin blows cold air just low volume compared to before my dusty trip. Am told the 2004 does not have a cabin air filter. If that is true how and where is the air filtered or input? Think something is restricting my air flow causing me problems.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2004 Pontiac Montana with about 107500 kms on it (VIN: 1GMDX03E24D183870) and the coolant temperature gauge is not working properly. Sometimes when I start my van, the temp gauge is pinned at MAX temp and stays there the whole trip...other times it's pinned at MIN temp...and other times it seems to work OK.
When it's pinned at MAX temp, I check the actual temp that the on-board computer is seeing, by using my OBDII scan tool...and I get about 87 degrees C when I'm halfway into my trip (i.e. - when the van is at operating temp), which seems OK. All the other analog gauges are working perfectly.
I read a lot about the issues with "connector C305" on the Internet on the Montana vans...could this be the problem?
Had this car for two years and I love it, but the central locking has been a bit glitchy since I bought it. Sometimes it works perfectly for weeks.
Sometimes it unlocks the driver door just fine, but a second click of the button won't open the other doors.
On a couple of occasions (today was the second time) it won't unlock any door. If I use the keyhole in the driver door to unlock that door, I have to hold the key to force the lock to stay up while I pull open the door with the other hand. If I let go of the key, it relocks itself.
After I manually unlocked and opened the driver door, I reached in and pressed the button on the console. It would not unlock the doors. This car has only one door keyhole, the one on the driver door. Locking always works on all doors, and it locks the doors itself as it should as I take off down the street.
When it is misbehaving, it misbehaves with either key and the console button does not work either, so I am pretty sure the problem not the transmitter.
If it always behaved as it did today, I would suspect that the microswitch in the driver door was shorting, and telling the system that the key was in the door and turned full right all the time. However, that would not explain why the usual failure is to open the driver door but not the others. Where is the receiver for the remote lock control?