Prius (2004-09) :: 2008 - Trunk Button Panel Broke?
Dec 28, 2015
My 2008 Prius needs a new panel that holds the license plate lights and the trunk release and lock buttons. Needed to properly replace the release button several years ago but was just using electric tape as a stop gap but now the entire panel broke off, not just the push screws but part of the panel broke. What this part is called?
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I have a 2008 GS350 AWD. One day, the trunk stopped working. The trunk button next to the drivers seat doesn't work nor does the button on the key fob work. I already pressed the valet button in the glove box, so I know its not that. Every time I try to open the trunk with the key fob, it'll beep but the trunk won't open. The ONLY way to get it open is to many insert the key that's hidden in the fob.
I read a couple of threads regarding this problem. Some say they went to lexus and was charged 1600 while others say they fixed it themselves.
One person said "They unplugged the wiring harness from the ECU (Electronic Control Unit? I guess). Once the harness was plugged back in the ECU reset and trunk works fine now. However they tell me it could happen again."
Where exactly is the wiring harness/ecu? Any diagram that I could follow?
Another person wrote "Took it to Lexus and they told me it would cost over $1600 to fix. Found your post, opened the trunk to disconnect the cable to the ECU. It would require some dissasembly. Leaving the trunk open, I disconnected the main battery ground and waited 5 minutes and reconnected the ground. This also reset the ECU. I closed the trunk and now everything works fine again."
Where is the "main battery ground"? Is he referring to the same battery that you hook up jumper cables to? if so, how do I disconnect the main battery.
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The button you press to automatically close the trunk on the rear of the car isn't working. When you press it, it just beeps and does nothing.
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I have an intermittent problem. Sometimes when I start my 2008 Prius, the speedometer panel will not light up. Also, when that happens the backup camera will not work. I tried starting the cal 4 or 5 times with the same result. When I got to my destination I stopped the car and 4 hours later started with no problem. It has done this 2 or 3 times now. Is my speedometer (instrument) panel about to fail?
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris. A few weeks ago my driver's side rear door stopped unlocking with the button on the key and the button on the driver's side door panel. About 2 weeks ago it started to work again, but just for 1 day; then it went right back to not working. About a week ago my passenger side door did the exact same.
I looked up the issue online and found that people with 07 RAV4s. An owner a RAV4 took the actuator in the door apart and found that the copper contacts had charred. After scraping with extremely fine sand paper and steel wool, and then reassembly of the door, the lock worked.
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The 02 I bought at salvage, drove home but now sits in the driveway stuck in park.
I consulted my owner's manual (for an 03) and found the info on the override button under the driver's side lower panel. Well, I didn't find any small postage stamp sized tab down under the steering wheel adjuster as it shows in the manual. There is a small, postage sized, louvered plate directly underneath the gear shift lever. There is something attached electrical behind it that I saw when I dropped the lower panel.
Is that the switch or am I looking for another beneath the steering wheel ?
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The button on the bottom of the trunk lid on my 2004 Phaeton that you tap to close the trunk is not working and the local dealer is scratching their "heads" since they've confirmed there is active power. Meanwhile my car is held captive until they hear back from VW corp. The trunk will close if I reach up and hit the center of the VW badge on the back of the trunk but its too tall for the wife to reach when the lid is open.
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I am the new owner of a 2015 ES350 and I've found that my trunk can be opened using the button under the trunk lip even when I don't have the key fob in my possession (my 2014 Dodge Charger does the same thing). How to prevent anybody without the key fob in their possession from accessing my trunk?
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All of a sudden, my 2008 prius, basic package without the smart entry system, stopped locking or opening the doors when i pressed the button.
At first i thought it must be a dead battery, so i replaced it with a new one and got the exact same behavior. i checked the old battery and it was still giving off 3 volts as was the new one when i checked that with a volt meter. when i press any of the buttons on the key, a small led light goes on and on the dashboard a picture of a key lights up briefly. the owner's manual does not show the key as a warning light.
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I have a 2006 F-15 XLT with a bed cover, tailgate cover and separate tailgate cap. The cap has cheap plastic clips that went into the tailgate but have broken off...this is a problem as I have a tonneau cover that is a tight fit. Every time I close the tailgate with the cover on, I have to jam the cap down and hope it is far enough by the time the tailgate closes.
2 Questions:
1) Where can I buy a reasonable replacement?
2) Is there a good solution to just repair? I tried JB Weld, but that did not seem to hold (surprisingly)
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On my 04 150 auto, the clip that holds the shift cable to the trans selector shaft broke, Ford says i need to buy the whole cable and what did you do?
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Checked icm and is good, replaced coil and still no spark. Issues be gan when about 700 miles ago rotor button broke while driving??? Replaced button cap wires and plugs. Engine fired right up. Ran 700 miles and rotor button broke for 2nd time. This time replaced and will turn over but not crank. That's when I checked icm and changed coil. what should i check now?? 1993 Ranger 3.0 ... Truck has 199,800 miles. Top end was redone at 140,000.
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I just found out that the air conditioning compressor is broke in my 2006 prius and its going to cost $1800 to fix it.. I am not in the loop here but that seems ridiculously high. I mean i save money at the pump but all that money just went out the door if i get this repaired. I am really contemplating trading the car in rather than deal with that expense..
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I just installed a Heater AC Control panel that was broken when things shifted in my truck. Now, air blows, but I get no AC. I'm wondering if something deeper in the dash was broken.
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2004 screw 5.4 xlt
I was driving home and heard a loud rat tat tat tat . I thought I might have run over something. I slowed down and the noise quit, pulled over, checked things out, nothing apparent. I was only a couple miles from home so Started driving again and the ABS light came on, then went off. Another indicator came on and went off... then the entire instrument cluster died except for the airbag light, no tach, speedo. Truck still drove fine. I stopped in the driveway shut her off and then tried to restart...no go. Kind of like a dead battery, tried to turn over.
Had a few things to take care of b4 getting back to the truck. Went out and I hear a continuous click, click, click back by the fuel cap (fuel pump)? ......but the truck is OFF no key in ignition. I disconnected the battery and the noise quit. Battery is showing 12 volts. I stuck the charger on. These symptoms sound like anything even possible???????
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We have a prius 2008. On December 2'nd we brought it to our dealership for a recall job done (campaign 182). I could not fill gas after that and the dealer insists that the fuel tank broke down because refuel light was flashing. How do I find out the reasons of fuel tank collapsing?
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I can't figure out how to open the door panel driver side.
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I have a 2008 Passat Komfort. About 2 weeks ago I went to open the trunk and nothing happened. Tried using the button next to the gas door open and still nothing, remote doesn't work, button doesn't work neither does pushing the emblem. I have tried both sets of keys and nothing.
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My trunk won't open with the button on key FOB, interior button, and trunk-lid button. I did check the glove compartment valet button multiple times as well. No luck there. The trunk does open manually with the metal key from the key FOB, just not the other buttons.
EDIT: The key FOB button works in that it makes the long beep noise, but the trunk does not pop. The auto-shut function does not work either. Just checked the driver side panel "TRK OPN" fuse and that's perfectly fine.
Could it be a bad solenoid? Bad latch or fuse?
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My MY2012 Passat 2.5 SE currently at 37k miles all of a sudden is showing clear coat peeling near the trunk/rear panel area. Car is a CPO and clean carfax (no accidents) and currently still under warranty. Planning on taking it back to the dealership and hopefully start a case for warranty work under VWoA.
I've never encountered clearcoat failure this early on, case in point my B5 (MY1999) still has excellent clear coat uniformity despite the paint/body being 17+ years old.
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Door panel has been off a few times to see what is up. drove it down the road a few times with the panel OFF to see if I could find the rattle...and it was quiet. when the panel goes back on, rattle comes back.
Now...where should I look at? is it one of the lock/door latch rods vibrating against the panel? that is about the only thing I can figure...
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