The 2008 Prius I have when it comes to a stoplight all of a sudden the car shakes. And then of course it sounds like a Chets off. Now over the years I have not really paid a whole lot attention to this but in the last year so it seems like a car has shaken more as it turns off at the red light what do you think.
View 14 RepliesMy 2008 did a strange thing last night -- the ICE was short cycling at a stoplight. It would start and then immediately turn off, then immediately start again. It did this about 5 cycles. Cold night, coldish engine, heater on, recent repair from being rear-ended (5 days since got it back from body shop). 12V battery seems good (12.3 volts no load, car not in ready mode; 11.6V withheadlights on and car off). No purpose could be served by such short cycles. We turned off heater and then the light changed and we were rolling forward and engine short cycled one more time and then the behavior stopped for the rest of the trip.
View 7 RepliesWe have a 1997 Saturn. For the past few months, whenever we're at a stoplight it suddenly fluctuates in RPMs, giving it a rough idle (going from 1000 down to 500 or so for a second or two, before coming back up to normal). It appears to be temperature sensitive (i.e. the longer the car runs or the hotter the outside temp, the more often this occurs). I sprayed the throttle body connection and vacuum connections to attempt to find a potential vacuum leak, with no effect. We've already had the transmission replaced, and haven't been having any other idle issues besides this. What else might be causing it.
View 4 RepliesI have 2008 Prius with 80K and I will try my best to give all the information that I can. The past few days during about 10-15 MPH driving, my car started to shake a little bit when I try to accelerate. It doesn't want to go no more than 5-10 MPH and I feel like I was driving on the small bumps. It went away after 10 seconds. Again, I can't duplicate the issue. It happend only twice.
Could this be related to 12 V battery issue, tires issues, transmission, fuel injection, spark plugs?
On my way home tonight - As i was making a turn near my home i got a bunch of warning lights that came up. Red Triangle, VSC, Check engine and i believe the Brake Warning (The little Circle with the ! inside).
The Car drove fine till i got home (only about a mile away at that point). Looked under the hood- nothing that stuck out as being busted but only a quick glance. If i still get the lights in the morning, Off to the dealer. Don't have a Code reader so cant pull anything here at home from the car.
If its related or not is the A/C seemed to get a bit weak in the minutes before the lights turned on - I remember intentionally cranking it up which is something i normally don't do. because the A/C is normally great in the car.
I have to say in the 4.5 years I've had the car - this is the first time I've had this kind of issue. The battery died and had to be replaced like 9 months ago but i didn't get the amount of warning lights I am getting now.
I just had my 04 5.4l engine rebuilt. Ive driven it about 500 mi and it started running rough at a stoplight. I tapped the accelerator and it started running good again but service engine light came on. I pulled the codes and they were P0022, PO345, P0340,and P0430. It has done this several times now. Everything was replaced including the phasers, except for the camshaft sensors. Could they cause this problem?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2008 prius. Usually it gets me around 52-55mpg, I've had it since January. Since a couple of days ago its not giving me anything above 49. I know thats a normal number, but considering the fact that its usually quite a bit higher I'm wondering what the cause of the drop is. Also around the same time, when I pull out of my driveway I notice what appears to be a bit of water leakage. Its under the vehicle in the front center, and it only happens when I start the car for the day and pull out of my driveway (its on an incline).
View 4 RepliesI am having problems with vibration on my 2011 Santa Fe 2.2 CRDi Premium, 95% of the time the car is fine, but twice now in the last month, out of nowhere, I can be driving along as standard and all the sudden a vibration will hit the whole car out of nowhere, it almost feels as if there is a bleb or defect on one of the tyres, the whole car shakes, but the shake is not coming through the steering wheel, it is the car body that seems to be shaking, if that makes any sense... However, if I pull over, turn off the engine, restart it, and pull away the vibration immediately disappears???
I am totally lost, as it is a occasional occurrence I can not replicate it for the dealer to inspect as it is still under warranty...
My 2004 f 150 has only 60 k on it and I have chased these micro-shimies since the truck was new! First there was a giant recall on the 2004 design of the rotors and calipers. I have since changed all that again..... This is now the third set of brakes.....
New last winter I put on 4 KUMO tires......and have had them rebalanced twice ( bad sign of quality in my opinion ).
Now 1 strut leaks. I am shopping i think LEAWOOD brand on rockauto parts is that a good quality? How about changing 1 strut? Is that silly at 60 k or should I man up and do both? Darn thing shakes at interstate speeds all the time...
my 05 is giving me these mini shakes when I accelerate and slow down. I also get a little bit at highway speeds. I was walking around the truck today and I noticed that the back right tire doesn't have a weight on it. I thought this was wierd. Could a weight have fallen off thus causing the vibrations, or is this normal for one wheel to not have a weight?
View 13 RepliesOnce in every few days the truck starts to shake aggressively while on the road. Its like going through a very rough gravel road all of a sudden, felt through steering column. I have to pull over and hit the brakes and bring truck to full stop before it goes away. Then it's gone. Any thoughts before I start to take it to mechanic. Is it shock related, brake related, etc??
By the way, my truck model is the 2005 F150 XLT TRITON.
I have A '06 f 150 4x4 with codes p303 and 307. I have changed plugs, coils, and injectors on all cylinders. Still nothing. It runs rough for a while and clears out for a mile or so and back to running bad. When it stumbles the a/c quits blowing cold and the truck shakes like crazy. The check engine light is on and blinks when it stumbles. Tired of just having parts changed. What else could it be?
View 6 RepliesI have an 08 accent gls hatch that stalled the other day and wont start. Replaced the crank and cam sensors as well as the map and purge valve. Now it sputters and stalls with the fuel pump jumped. Has spark ans well as fuel at rail. What am i missing- no engine codes...
View 8 Replies(2007 model)
For a slight re-cap, first time I had to hit the brakes suddenly, the front 12V plug went out. Alright, thought that was a bit odd, but continuing on.
Second time was a few years later, earlier this summer actually. Had to hit the brakes fairly hard to avoid hitting an idiot dashing across lanes. Entire MFD, radio, cig plug, the whole front works went out. Got online and after a bit of searching found a post saying to check the ACC-B fuse. Sure enough that was it.
So now we're at the third time. Same thing, sudden braking, ACC-B fuse blew. Replaced it, started up the car, blew again. Replaced it, started up the car, blew again. so now I'm at 3 25A fuses that have blown in the past 2 hours, 2 of them within 60 seconds of the car turning on.
One thing I did think was kind of interesting is when I turned the car on, I could hear various noises which sounded like electrical components doing a startup sequence, then it blows. The only thing I have in that front area is a tiny 12V camera, nothing else plugged in at all.
Our 2007 Prius had previously been averaging high 40s MPG but the past few weeks has dropped to around 38 and won't move much higher... we are using the A/C a little more than the past few months but not on full constantly or anything like that... first time I've seen MPG this low since we've owned the car (20 months).
View 19 RepliesI have a 2004 that all of the sudden will not go into gear or start, it was fine one evening and then the next morning nothing.
View 19 RepliesMy '05 Prius has been going strong with just passing the 200k mark recently. However about 2-3 weeks ago after I replaced the PCV valve, I started getting really bad gas mileage. I'm talking about getting an average of 45 mpg in city/highway combo down to 30 mpg. Filled up my tank twice from empty so I'm pretty sure it's not just bad gas. Highway driving does slightly better than city.
Today I noticed that my acceleration from stop is just absolutely terrible. The car responds really slow and sluggish and takes a while for it to realize I want to go. Low speed doesn't get good mileage at all. It seems I get normal mileage at almost 65 mph, not sure why.
I don't think the 100 degree weather we are having here in Texas is causing THAT much of an effect because last year and two years ago during 100 degrees, gas mileage was normal. What to check? I searched and most talk about cold weather. I have a relatively new 12V gel battery so I doubt it is that but I can try disconnecting it.
2007 5.4 . Starts good , idles all day. As soon as you try to rev it, it stumbles rattles etc. Shut it off, wait a second, restart then Idles fine. I watched live Data and it carries on when the VVT solenoids become active (above 800 rpm).There duty cycle goes to 60-70 percent while revving. I think it Is just one side of the engine. Could be VVT solenoids sticking on? yes ? No?
View 3 RepliesMy '07 shakes when braking below 7 mph. Coming to a complete stop is never perfectly smooth unless medium to hard braking is required. My thought was that the MG2 is in creep mode even while my foot is lightly on the brake pedal, causing the jerking, but creep works properly while not braking.
The shaking is very steady, at about 6 Hz, the same frequency as the "popping" noise one hears when stopped at the light with the foot lightly on the brake; just enough to keep the car from creeping, but not mashed far enough to turn off the creep current from the battery. I take it there's two sensors on the pedal as well as a potentiometer. Could the problem be mitigated if the creep current were cut off at the presence of a foot rather than having to press harder? There is no shaking on a harder stop, only the slow ones.
Another thought I had was that the pressure pump itself is supplying the brake pressure to the friction pads, causing the pulsing. In a previous thread, we discussed why my pump was coming on so often. Perhaps a leak in the canister causing the pressure not to be buffered, and the pump itself providing the pressure.
I was driving the other day, and all of a sudden it started with this horrible knocking sound. I have never heard the sound before. I remember back in the day, with a 67 buick rivera, that if the oil got low, the engine would knock, and this kind of sounded the same, but more high pitched and clicky. I checked the oil first thing and there is plenty in there - in fact, I had just checked and put oil in it about two weeks before.
I have not always kept up with the oil changes, and sometimes the oil level was pretty low. My sons tell me that the sound seems to be coming from the top of the engine, and it's probably toast, a rod knock. I parked it, and figured i will get it looked at in a few months, when I'm better able to pay for diagnostics.
We seem to be getting reports of failed inverter coolant pumps here on just about a daily basis. I'm wondering if they're all just failing now or if this is something of a "backlog" of failures that started in Winter but are only really being detected now.
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