Prius (2004-09) :: 2008 - Rear Drum Brake Shoe Thickness?
Nov 16, 2013
Getting ready to perform the clean and adjust rear brakes maintenance. I took a digital caliper and measured my rear drum brake thickness. The thinnest measurement I got was 3.19 mm.
I looked up the specifications and rear shoes brand-new are 4 mm. Minimum thickness allowed is 1mm.
I have 95K on my 2008. Since my brake shoes are showing close to brand-new measurements does this mean my rear drums are out of adjustment or is this normal?
XT1080 ?
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On my father in law's 06 Saturn Vue, we replaced rear shoes, springs and drums. His left rear shoes are now locking up usually after the car sits for about an hour or two. It happens when he backs up and then puts it in drive. He gets about 30 feet and the brakes lock up, and upon test driving it i cannot recreate the condition. I do notice a chatter like war pattern on the shoes, and wheel cylinders are not leaking, although upon braking with the drums off, the wheel cylinders do appear to be a little weak. could this cause the lock up, or could it be a defective drum? I've thought about swapping left and right drums.
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I just replaced the rear brake shoes and they seem really tight to the drum on the left side. Right side was liitle tight but OK. Self adjuster is screwed all the way in so I'm not sure why this happened.
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2006 prius 130k ...
I replaced the rear drum brakes, wheel cylinders, and bled the brakes. I discovered on drivers side, that no matter how much bleeding, the brake does not engage on the rear drivers side. While bleeding, I discovered very little pressure. The brake light, VSC, ABS, and ! lights remain lit while the cars on. Does this sound like a master cylinder or ABS failure? Can the autoenginuity scan this issue?
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I had a tire blow out, two nuts snapped off, custom rims came with car when I brought it, 12mm internal hex. I suspect they were over torqued.
I loosened self adjuster star all the way, and the drum still wont come off, I have tried heat with propane torch where hub meets drum.
And no parking brake isn't on. 2005 Camry right rear drum.
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I just had my 20,000 mile service and my records showed 7/32nds on my tires and 12mm front and 9mm rear remaining on the brake pads. The information on the tires is pretty useful, since I can forecast when I'll need new ones. If 3/32nds is when the tires need replacing then at my current rate I'll need new tires in a few thousand miles (2 months at my current pace). Does that sound reasonable?
But what about brake pads? What is the depth in mm of stock pads on a new car?
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This is my first time working on drum breaks, all the repair manuals and videos don't make it look too bad. I did have a question about the parts required to replace the rear breaks.
Assuming these breaks are very worn. What parts would need to be replaced in a typical break job.
The pics below are what I'm planning on buying:
Shoes
Rotors
Drum
Hardware Kit
Is there anything that I'm missing?
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I recently attempted to replace the rear brake shoes on my 01 Accord. Everything seemed to go reasonably well, but now when the brakes heat up I get a loud knocking and vibration while driving that goes away while braking. I popped the drum off last night and backed off the adjustment as the drum was hanging on one spot during rotation. This seemed to make it worse (though some minimal did stop suddenly in front of me, so I had to emergency brake and heat everything up). It has the original drums.
As a second, related question, there was no problem on my little test drive last night so I drove to work this morning. About 3/4 of the way there was when this started, and kept getting progressively worse. Understanding that you don't know exactly what the problem is, do you think it's reasonably ok to drive home (about 10 miles and I can stay off the highway)?
Knocking and vibration from rear passenger drum brake after replacing brake shoes, only while driving.
Car: 2001 Accord LX 4 cylinder
Took the drum off, backed down the tension on the adjustment screws. Drives and feels fine until the brakes heat up.
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Well, I have a 2011 Ford Escape. Recently, the car has been making two noises coming from the right rear drum brake.
I can only hear it going 5 mph or lower, possibly from road noise.
First noise: It sounds like someone is rubbing wet rubber on a wood floor (weird analogy). Not a grinding sound like a bad pad, but more of a hard rubbing sound.
Second noise: Whenever the car is at 5 MPH or lower and starts to decelerate, there is a high-pitched very small whistle coming from the same area. The pitch decreases as the speed does.
Got the brakes checked, no issues.
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I must replace my driver's side rear brake drum cylinder but I am unable to fit any socket or wrench on the backing plate bolts holding on the brake cylinder. They are rusted and never been touched I think; how does one remove the bolts holding on the brake cylinder without stripping them? There is basically no room for leverage and the walls of a socket are too thick.
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I bought my accent in 2006 and it came with rear drum brakes and I want to know if it is possible to switch to rear disc brakes. I know that newer accents have all disc brakes so maybe it wont be that hard, but what do I need? I dont have abs. I asked the dealer like a year ago and they told me they wont do it. I have seen this conversion before in other cars that did not have rear disc brakes in newer versions either.
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Don't seem to have an adjustment hole on my 2002 Tundra SR5, 2W drive. These are self adjusting brakes and, if they are, how to I go about adjusting them....simply backing up and engaging the brakes?
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So I'm in the process of doing a rear brake job on a 2002 Pontiac Sunfire. Drum brakes. And (shocker - especially for a northern car that never had the job done before) the drum won't come off. I've spent two days with a propane blowtorch, PB Blaster, and a 3lb hammer. No dice. It won't even budge.
So now I'm thinking about taking an angle grinder to the drum and just replacing both (probably necessary, as I'm sure it's in terrible shape). I'm really at my last option here.
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Worthless Chilton's manual went in trash. I don't have a working PC and Im unable to find a diagram for the rear brake drum of my 2005 camry.
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I replaced a brake cylinder on my 2006 Focus rear drum brake. Now, I need to bleed the brake fluid, but I can't find a wrench to fit the nut.10mm is too small and 11mm is too big. What's going on? Could it be the rusted nut has grown in size enough to make the 10mm wrench too small? Or, is the nut standard?I know the drum bleeder nut I know the front disc brake bleeder brake is 10mm. So, I am thinking the rear should be metric, but since it's drum, I am not so sure. What the size is?
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Recently purchased my first Ford truck, a 97 F250 w/7.3L diesel. I discovered the passenger rear drum brake was full of oil. Cleaned it up and put it back together to do some research.
I see how the hub comes off and there are two bearings in it an an oil seal. The bearings are lubed in wheel bearing grease. Does differential oil circulate through the bearings too?
It doesn't look like a difficult job. Do the seals go bad often or could this be due to a clogged differential vent? Truck has only 100k miles. Any gotchas I should be aware of?
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02 Camry with rear disc and drum in hat for the parking brake.
i removed the rotors when doing the pads and found the parking brake shoe to be pretty skinny. Unlike regular drum brake shoes...
Then checked some pictures in google, i appears that parking brake shoes are by design pretty thin?
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How the heck do you reconnect the brake drum end of the E-Brake ?
There seems to be not enough play in the cable to be able to hook it.
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My truck is a 2004 F150, low mileage. I dont know if the brakes are original but theyve never been done since Ive owned the truck-4 years.
Last night I loaned my stock trailer 2200lb and truck to a friend (the trailer had been sitting 7 months) and first off the pin hole plug in box on back of truck had gotten bent somehow...so he hammered it back enough to get the 7 pin thing in and trailer lites working. WHen he unhitched he left the 7 pin plug in the hole so it would be easier for me to plug in next time.
He went about 20 miles rt with a horse in the trailer both ways. When he got back to my yard the rear passenger side tire was HOT (to hot to touch without getting burned) and there was a plastic/rubber type burning smell. Other 3 tires ok-mildly warm to the touch but most def. not HOT. When we looked at it with a flashlite there was a lot of rust type color on the rotor? (hope Im naming the parts right)-the other rear was just silver and dark.
He said I needed to replace the pads. Couple questions as Im too poor to go to a dealer or fix a lot of thing needlessly....so I just have friends do the work.
(I dont have a trailer brake box in this truck like I have in my other truck so I ASSUME that my horse trailer doesnt have brakes-how can I tell??)
What causes this?? I mean it was so hot I think if it would have gone another mile it would have caught on fire.
Do I replace just the pads, the pads and rotors and capilars??? I will be buying the parts at the store. Should I opt for a heavy duty or ceramic pad?
I need to go tot he store but am now scared to drive the truck even not towing. Should I be worried?? The brakes are gonna catch fire.
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I'm having a hard time trying to remove one of my rear brake rotors.
I thought these simply pull straight out and off, but mine might be rusted in place. I soaked the front facing area around the axle with Kroil and then tried jolting it out by tapping it with a rubber mallet. No success
What's the trick?
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Every time I brake, there is an awful grinding sound in the rear of my truck. It doesn't seem to be affecting the brake strength, however something is obviously wrong. I have looked at the brake pads and they seem to be in good shape. I am a mechanical misfit, but I hate getting ripped off by other people at the brake shops.
2005 F150 Crew Cab, 5.4 V8....
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