Prius (2004-09) :: 2008 - ICE Short Cycling At Stoplight?
Feb 27, 2015
My 2008 did a strange thing last night -- the ICE was short cycling at a stoplight. It would start and then immediately turn off, then immediately start again. It did this about 5 cycles. Cold night, coldish engine, heater on, recent repair from being rear-ended (5 days since got it back from body shop). 12V battery seems good (12.3 volts no load, car not in ready mode; 11.6V withheadlights on and car off). No purpose could be served by such short cycles. We turned off heater and then the light changed and we were rolling forward and engine short cycled one more time and then the behavior stopped for the rest of the trip.
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The 2008 Prius I have when it comes to a stoplight all of a sudden the car shakes. And then of course it sounds like a Chets off. Now over the years I have not really paid a whole lot attention to this but in the last year so it seems like a car has shaken more as it turns off at the red light what do you think.
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I have a 97 expedition that i am having trouble with. It has front and back airconditioner. The compressor is short cycling real fast. Warm air in the front and cool air in the back. I put a can of freon in but still not cooling. The gauges are between 30 psi and 50 on the low side. The high side is between 100 and 150 psi. The ambient temp was 80 degrees.....
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I have a 2004 5.4 and the A/C cycles on and off too frequently making it take too long to cool the cab. Had A/C service done this weekend and initially I thought it worked, but now a few days later, it still cycles on and off. Is this a simple relay or switch somewhere?
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I just had my 04 5.4l engine rebuilt. Ive driven it about 500 mi and it started running rough at a stoplight. I tapped the accelerator and it started running good again but service engine light came on. I pulled the codes and they were P0022, PO345, P0340,and P0430. It has done this several times now. Everything was replaced including the phasers, except for the camshaft sensors. Could they cause this problem?
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been off and on having problems with my r/f speaker cutting out, not completely-i get a little noise from it. ive replaced the speakers in the front but found since i have the audiophile system, they sounded terrible. i removed what i believe to be a crossover from the factory speaker & reinstalled the crossover with the factory connector & tweeter, but spliced in the new 6x8s. this made it sound wonderful again. now i still seem to be having the problem and found if i unplug the radio and plug it back in it will work good again for a short period of time.
my question is can i use any ford radio that looks like it is the same, I like the ones with the chrome on thje. Or should i just get a kenwood or something. i dont want to spend a ton of money. and will an aftermarket head unit decrease sound quality since i have the audiophile as the speakers originally did without the crossover.
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109,000 miles into my 2009 Prius with no problems, I'm having an annoying issue with the alarm. Sometimes - about half the time, without any discernible reason - when I power the car on, it gives three rapid, very short honks. I can't relate it doing this to anything - doors can be open or closed, it can have sat for a week or have just been turned off, ect. I have the KARR factory alarm thing installed, but it seems to function normally.
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Issues:
1. Getting beeping noise like the keys left in the ignition when the doors open although they are not- battery is good.
2. Red triangle on start up with warning about Transmission- Parking brake does not sensor as being on, when on - in the diagnostic screen.
3. Fog lights are no longer operating when just the parking lights are on, but are when the headlights come on.
These issues may be separate but they all kind of happened in the same time span.
Background - 2009 Prius, Optium Battery initially installed Spring of 2012, over 66,000 miles. Battery is good, all fuses are good.
Since installing the Optium Battery I have had to change the battery about four times - as I am not always driving so I keep a 12v battery on the ready on a battery maintainer just incase I need to change batteries - not optimal, but it works for now. For this reason I turn the SKS off.
Last week my FOB started working erratically for about a week. I would have to press the button several times to get my door to open. Then it started working again like a champ. The battery in the FOB was changed by the dealer in September.
I regularly use the fog lights without the headlights. At the start of the week the fog lights no longer worked with the parking lights and only with the headlights.
Later in the week the car started beeping whenever I exited the vehicle from the driver's side. The beep was the constant short beep like when you leave your key in the ignition. I had not and nothing else was on (I read the post about the guy who moved his car for a family function.) This is an issue I associate with me having to change the battery, however it would have to wait to the weekend and an onboard diagnotic indicated that my battery with load was running at 13.9volts. Every other time I would start the engine I would get the red triangle and retry and the car would start up fine.
I was not able to make it to the weekend to change the battery and had to get a jump to get home on Friday. Upon initial start up after the jump and changing the battery the car indicated that there was a problem with the transmission ... park on flat surface... (Message goes to quicky for me to write it all down and I could not repeat the situation to get the message again).
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When driving, when I hit a medium- light bump in the road and slightly jar the car, I hear a beep and the car goes into EV mode. This means the rpm's drop to zero, the gas engine shuts off and the car goes electric only. This is a problem because the state of charge then runs the bars on the multi-function-display down to the purple bar level.
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I have an issue with the air conditioner of my prius. It just works while I am driving, but it does not work when I stop for a short while, such as waiting for signal. The fan is working fine. I visited a dealer and they told me the gas is leaking... but, they are wrong. I cannot believe them. The gas is fine and there is no leak and no problem exists at any other parts. Need to know about it? Should I replace the compressor?
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I have an 08 accent gls hatch that stalled the other day and wont start. Replaced the crank and cam sensors as well as the map and purge valve. Now it sputters and stalls with the fuel pump jumped. Has spark ans well as fuel at rail. What am i missing- no engine codes...
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Made the decision to go with headers to replace the cracked exhaust manifold. Looking at JBA short tubes or pace setter long tubes Which is better? Just use the truck to pull boat to lake. 5.4 F-150 FX4
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I noticed yesterday in traffic, looking for a parking space the ICE was constantly cycling off and on. The battery was only at 2 bars so I understand why it was doing that. How does the Prius get the mileage it does if the gas engine is turning off and on all the time in traffic? Yes it was hot and I had the A/C on too, which of course draws more current. We had driven 130 miles and I was amazed at how short the SOC lasted.
Suffice to say that once we got out of the congested area and I could brake more effectively the off and on went away.
Also on the way back I used the normal mode for windy hilly areas and the eco mode for the highway with cruise on. Oddly enough at the end of the trip the CONS was showing 57.6mpg. Didn't seem like changing modes hurt the mileage at all if any.
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Car is a 2004 1.8T GLI. My A/C seems to be cycling on and off sporadically. Some days it will work great and other days it is non existent. For example, this morning I had the A/C blowing ice cold with everything running as it should including the fan. Well now that a couple hours have passed, my A/C is now dead and only blowing hot air in my face as usual. Now, I have had the refrigerant levels checked and refilled twice now by an A/C specialist. He assured that all mechanical aspects of the A/C system are fine and that I might have an electrical problem. With that said, I have gone through a list of possible causes. Here is what I have checked so far.
-All of my fuses including the three on top of the battery have been tested and came out fine.
-Refrigerant levels are within spec (checked for leaks by A/C tech and found nothing. Twice.)
-Both of my fans are working. The small fan engages with either rising temperature or when the A/C decides to work.
As of now it seems that I am not receiving constant power to the compressor as it will engage randomly throughout the day(s) if left on. I have no clue where to look next.
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I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am, it has a V6. I live in AZ, so right now its like 110 outside and my ac will work fine when i am driving but when i stop at a stoplight it starts blowing hot but when I start driving again it takes about a minute and then it will blow cold again and it does this same thing at every stoplight, but if the car is just idling in my yard with the ac on it blows cold it doesn't do this, I thought maybe it was low on freon and bought a can of ac pro with a gauge and when i checked the pressure it went into the red so it says not to add any, and contact a mechanic. But what may be wrong with it first, I replaced the ac compressor 2 years ago. A couple of days ago I replaced all the radiator hoses and the radiator and the coolant tank and of course added the right amount of dexcool. The car is not getting hot, the problem is just with the ac ,
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2003 PT Cruiser won't start immediately after short trip with a short stop. Always does start after turning the key and holding it to start position. The check engine light is often on and the code is for a cam shaft sensor or resistor sensor. A companion problem is the cruise control. If the check engine light is OFF and I use the cruise control, it works fine for a while and then the check engine light comes on at the same instant the cruise control turns off. Are these 2 issues connected? How much should it cost to have the sensor replaced? The car always stays running once it starts and the problem occurs randomly. What are the consequences of not repairing it?
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Last week I had the plugs, coils, valve cover gasket and fuel filter done my 2004 Ford Escape when the engine started misfiring and today it started to idle rough at a stoplight and it seemed like it was going to stall but didn't. I had it sit for about an hour and a half and the it did want to turn over like the battery did have enough cold crank to it but it did after a couple of times. It has come and gone for the last couple of hours. No warning lights are one either. It seems pretty close to what it was doing when it was misfiring. What it may be?
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My Ranger, an '04 Edge without cargo lights. The high mount stoplight is faintly lit with the parking/headlights on. I had changed out the incandescent bulb for a LED, and went out to see how everything looked after dark. Well, the high mount had a slight glow to it, not really on, just a faint glow. This was never noticed with the regular bulb. I suspect I may have some stray voltage coming from somewhere, just enough to make the LED glow, but not enough for the normal bulb. When I switched off all the lights, it went out as well.
I tried to find a wiring diagram on line, like I've suggested to others in the past, but no luck from Autozone, or the EBSCO host I've used before. In fact the EBSCO will no longer accept "tech" as a user name or password.
So, where the problem may lie? I hate it when I can't figure out something like this!!!
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I tried searching and only found rough idle at startup, so here is my issue. At the same point in my AM drive, quite often I'll come to a stoplight and the motor will idle fairly roughly. If I switch to the "car" on the dash, it indicates the motor should be off. It is not charging the battery. Today it did it when I was only one bar from full battery. Also did it at the next light I came to.
This happens at the end of the commute. I've already covered 40+ mostly highway miles.
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My parents have a 08 trailblazer and the brakes stick. basically sometimes you stop and wait at a light or a stop sign, let off the brake and you can feel them stick for about a second and then release. they took it to the dealer, they said they felt it also but dont know what it is. we know its related to the brakes cause they take it there and they say they cleaned up the brakes and then it wont do it for a week or two then it will start doing it again. its still under warr. What it might be?
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The triangle, brake, vsc, CEL.
The brake and the vsc shut off after a short drive. Car seems to drive fine.
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