Prius (2004-09) :: 2008 - How To Replace Light Switch
Mar 20, 2015
How to replace the "light switch" on an 08 Prius. The driver side headlight and taillight will come on when you first turn on the lights and but will turn off in just a few seconds. Sometimes they will stay on for a while and/or go off and on. I was told it was the "light switch".
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In the last 50 starts it has happened twice: When I try to start the truck, all dash lights and power come on but there is no sound or cranking from the engine. If I cycle the key back and forth a half a dozen times it will then crank and start. Next time I will try and listen to hear if the solenoid is clicking.
I've read posts about it being the anti-theft, ignition switch, stater relay, ppm relay, etc....
I could replace the relays to rule them out, but my gut is telling me that's not it? Would there be a code from something like this?
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My dealer wants to completely replace the whole tail light assembly because the rear passenger break light is out. Is this really necessary just to replace a light bulb? (2004 Prius)
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I have a 2002 ford f150 I changed the turn signal switch and now the theft light is on and it won't start...
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Just discovered today (after driving my Prius since 2006) the Fog Lights are Not on when light switch in park position. In fact, there are not any lights on in the front of the car when light switch in park mode.
North Carolina has a law to burn headlights when using windshield wipers. The HID lights seem to draw from the High Voltage batteries. So, I've been putting the light switch in the park mode .....thinking the fog lights would be on. (Yes, I have the fog light switch in the on position.)
There is not any lights on in the front of the car when switch is in the park mode. You don't know how many rain storms I've been in, thinking the Fog Lights were on. ...even meeting Highway Patrol coming at me, and they never pulled me over, adding to my thinking I was burning the Fog Lights without the HID lights on.
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The switch for the parking brake pedal light self loosened (a known issue with this switch) over the past six months and today it finally fell off the pedal assembly. The only way I can see to do the repair is to remove the three fasteners that attach the parking brake pedal assembly to the dash and drop the pedal to the floor to refasten the switch. It appears to be possible; however, there are lots of stuff around the assembly that might get in the way of dropping the assembly so I raised the white flag and called it a day.
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2004 F150 Supercrew 4x4 Right now I have a broken roller cup on my rear U-joint. So I bought a new U-joint from the Ford dealer. When I pulled the driveshaft out I couldn't tell how to replace the U-joint. There are no E-clips to remove from the yoke/driveshaft ears. There are solid round "O" shaped clips that looked to be pressed in or something.
I've talked to the Ford dealer as well as a few other local mechanics and they haven't seen this setup before. So I didn't get any assistance there. It seems like my only option is to replace the whole pinion yoke, driveshaft, and U-joint together. Which sucks because this is just a frikkin' U-joint that needs replaced. That's it. I guess what I'm asking is, is there a way to work on this non-serviceable U-joint?
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Tried searching, but I couldn't find any good write-ups on how to replace a front CV axle. The boot on mine is ripped and spraying grease so I figure I should just replace the whole axle while I'm in there. In a previous post, I also found out that replacing the CV axle (joint?) is easier than replacing just the boot.
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156,000 miles, I've been pulling a 21ft bass boat in the summer for years with no issues. Now on hot days (over 78 degrees) it is over heating. Can't use AC and need to slow down to 60 mph in-order to cool her down. Never have flushed the radiator but I'm wondering if getting it flushed is a waste of time and if I should just proceed to replacing the radiator? For a couple of years now I can hear a roaring sound (like a jet engine) on really hot days, when I start out driving. Could this be a cooling fan? Seems like the power is restricted during these times. Really need to increase throttle to get going?
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Alright, I, like alot of people with these trucks have the rust under their fuel doors from what ive seen and heard is the fuel neck filler plastic vibrating and rubbing, wearing throught the paint allowing water and fuel drips in and getting under the paint.
Well i keep touching up my spots but i have to do it twice a year and it just keeps getting worse, so i decided to go a bit further and clean it, touch it up, and protect it. This is a low $ job. Its not perfect but it is definately better than rust and from a couple feet back you can barely notice it, and hopefully this will be the last time i have to touch it up.
[URL] .....
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I have 2008 LS 460 and replace engine oil warning light comes on every 3,000 miles. I plan on changing oil every 5,000 miles. How can I change warning to coincide? What are thoughts on changing every 7,500 if no pulling or hills? I am using synthetic Royal Purple. Is it worth the cost?
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Just bought a 2007 supercab with the 5.4 in nice shape, but have an intermittent brake light on the dash. (No ABS, just the brake light.) Our mech. diagnosed a bad Brake Fluid Level switch. I can get a new sensor. I'd like to try and replace this myself and save a lot of money if it's not too difficult.
I'm looking for some clear step-by-step directions on doing this, and have a couple of questions:
Do I need to disconnect the battery first?
Do I need to empty the brake fluid reservoir? (Looks like the sensor is in the bottom of the reservoir, if I take it out without draining res, will I have a mess?)
When looking up the sensor online, I also saw the plug/connector for sale, should I replace that as well?
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I have a 2006 F-15 XLT with a bed cover, tailgate cover and separate tailgate cap. The cap has cheap plastic clips that went into the tailgate but have broken off...this is a problem as I have a tonneau cover that is a tight fit. Every time I close the tailgate with the cover on, I have to jam the cap down and hope it is far enough by the time the tailgate closes.
2 Questions:
1) Where can I buy a reasonable replacement?
2) Is there a good solution to just repair? I tried JB Weld, but that did not seem to hold (surprisingly)
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I have a leak between the metal and the plastic of my water crossover.
Do I need to remove the manifold to replace the gaskets for the crossover and if so looking for a good thread showing how.
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I was wondering if this seems reasonable. I just bought a used 2008 Prius top trim package with 107,00 miles on it this last month. The first day I owned it a check engine light was triggered. The guy I bought it from hooked it up to his computer and cleared it to then try to trigger it again. This happened when I first turned on the car. I started backing and then it turned on. I didn't know what caused it as we couldn't trigger the response again. It's been a few weeks now and 1 trip to the shop for some repairs. There have been no problems what-so-ever since then and my Prius just started getting close to the 50 MPH as advertised after a tune up.
Today when I'm driving, as the seller did mention before could happen, the right headlight turned off. As he had told me before, just turning the lights off and turning them back on will get it working again. I did this and as soon as I did the check engine light came on. I go back to the night I originally had it happen and I was probably in the process of turning on my lights.
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Is there any way to replace the keyed ignition with a simple momentary switch of some sort? Or is the built in security features too intertangled in the whole design? IE I suspect I'd have to disable tronsponder, keyed ignition, security system, steering column lock, some computer features? I definitely no expert but wondering if it's possible.
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Replacing the ignition switch? I heard it possibly needs some VAG COM changes related to the immobilizer?
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needed to replace the turn signal switch on my 91 caprice. when reassembling i could not seem to get the steering locking mech to engage the way it should. I would like a diagram or photo illustration of the correct position of those parts.
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i have a xl truck that i just got for work. I am wondering if it is possible to change the radio from it to my old cd 6 that i have in my personal truck. I know on the older models you can switch to a ford radio with a cd player but not a cd 6 but I don't know if it's possible on this model or not.
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I don't have a passat (yet), but my friend has a 2004 (B5.5 I imagine) - headlight is out... how do I know if she has HID?
What guide should I follow to replace it? Do I need to take out the headlight to replace the light...?
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My young lad just picked up a 2004 F150 4x4. While fixing it up we have encountered a weird problem. The key goes in , starts and runs the truck but cannot be removed, unless you unhook the battery.
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