I have a 2008 Prius. The blower for the AC and heat stopped working. I have checked the two AC fuses and they are okay. I used the touch screen diagnostics mode on the touch screen and it appears that the touch screen and the screen switches are working. Any other things to check?
How hard is it to access the blower motor to replace or to check if it is getting power? How much of the dash has to be disassembled?
My 2007 Prius has stopped producing cabin heat; the blower fan is working. I have no dash warning indicators. I am in an area where the are no Toyota dealers and need to drive 160 miles to home and shop. It has just turned cold. Why and if I am ok to drive to the shop?
View 1 Replies2003 F150 4wd with auto climate control. My blower for heat and AC completely stopped working a few weeks ago. I have checked all fuses, i replaced the relay under the dash, i replaced the blower motor control module. I supplied power to the blower motor itself and it ran fine with no noises. I ran the self test on the controller in the dash under the radio and it passed. I am not sure what else to try.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2008 Elantra w/ 108K miles. The current issue is the heat/ac blower intermittently not working. On Christmas Eve I started to drive it and realized the windshield was fogged up because blower was not working. The next day it worked fine...we chalked it up to maybe being related to having plugged a crock pot into the cigarette lighter (with a plug convertor thing)...wishful thinking that maybe something just got "overloaded." It has been working fine since, except last night when I started it, same thing--no air blowing on any of the settings (I read that if setting 4 works, but not 1-3, it makes a difference w/ the diagnosis). And, then again today...it works fine. Other things that I have noticed/that have happened in the past year or so (possibly unrelated, but figured it couldn't hurt to mention them just in case):
June 2013--started intermittently hearing a loud buzzing type sound (at first thought it was my phone vibrating)...sometimes would happen randomly, but mostly when I would adjust the heat/ac...sound coming from the passenger side front of the car floor area (maybe under glove box where I know the blower motor is). The buzzing would last anywhere from 2-20 seconds. Never did anything about it since everything was working fine...
Last winter--while driving home during a heavy snow storm w/ defrost on high and windshield wipers going noticed that the fan/blower seemed to "surge" when I stepped on the gas..like the blower would slow down when I braked and blast out much more air louder when I accelerated. I noticed this again tonight...possibly it has been ongoing and I just have not noticed.
Early Dec 2014-present--unable to adjust the temp setting...despite twisting the knob from red to blue, it remained hot air. Assumed it's the blend door, but figured we'd deal w/ it in the spring when I needed cold air again!
What this could be (or an overall problem that would explain all the problems?).
I own 01 Prius with 223K miles, No heat or AC working. Only get outside air. Here is the code I am getting: 3, 3, 4, 1, 4, 2, 4, 3.
View 19 RepliesGot a 2008 Hyundai Accent. Yesterday, the blower motor just stopped working. I had just started it up, the heater came on for about five seconds. There was no noise, no funny smell, nobody had done anything to it. It just stopped. I checked the ac fuse and it looked fine. I looked in the fuse box under the hood, and I'd like to check the fusible link for the blower motor to see if it has a problem. Is this something I could do and how? Also is there anything else I can do to diagnose the cause of the problem?
View 2 RepliesA few weeks ago my battery died and I had to jump start my car. After the jump start, my heat wasn't working - no air will blow out on heat or A/C. I checked the fuses - all good.
I pulled the blower motor out and tested it and it worked hooked up to a battery. At one point when the blower motor was still in the car I banged it with a hammer and it turned on momentarily then shut off again.
Since the blower motor seemed to work outside of the car, I assumed it was the resistor that was bad. Replaced , and still no heat.
Could the blower motor be bad and just have worked hooked to a battery intermittently?
What else could it be?
The heater/ac blower stopped working on my 2004 Lexus GX470. All the lights and display work but the fan doesn't work on any speed. I replaced the relay in the fuse box under the hood but no luck. I removed the blower and it works when I hot wire it to the battery. I checked the voltage coming into the blower and its at 13.5V, same as coming off the battery but it doesn't turn the fan.
View 5 Replies2008 Prius 115,000 miles
Purchased 2 years ago @ 78,000 miles
My rear defrost stopped working at some point towards the end of last winter. I recently started to need it again with fall weather in Pennsylvania. I was able to find the fuse for it. I replaced it and that did not solve the problem. I took off the trim around the rear hatch window to make sure all the connections were solid and they were. Also the grid seems intact, I don't see any breaks in the defroster lines. The rear view mirror defrosters work whenever I hit the button to turn on the rear defrost.
At this point I am considering changing the rear defrost relay. I think it is located next to the fuse ...
My 2004 camry LE (235K miles) has had a noise associated with the blower for several months. The blower worked fine on all settings but had a subtle noise that was between a purr and a click. It's constant, fast-paced, rhythmic and rises in pitch as the blower setting is changed. Hot or cold settings don't make a difference. The closest I can approximate is the sound made when kids put (or used to put) playing cards in the spokes of their bikes.
However in the last couple months the blower has stopped working intermittently. Sometimes it will come back on if I went over some railroad tracks or a hard bump. If I turn the car off the blower may not work when it's restarted. The last couple days it's stopped doing even that, and since there's snow on the ground it has become an issue! The fan setting doesn't make a difference, high or low.
My R stopped blowing any air. I can just barely feel warmth coming from the vents, but blower is not working... I looked for some threads on this but nothing.
View 2 Replies2004 Prius, 135,000 miles.
About a month ago, the blower motor stopped coming on all the time. A quick whack under the glove box fixed it when it didn't start. Then about a week after that, I felt like the AC wasn't really warming when needed. This may have been true earlier, but it hasn't been that cold around here, so I wouldn't have noticed, perhaps.
About a week ago, I start hearing what I might describe as a rattling kind of noise I had never heard before sometimes under hard acceleration. Not always. Didn't hear the noise tonight, for example. Of course, then, tonight, on the interstate, the warning light pops up for just long enough for the temperature indicator to flash up. It quickly disappeared, but in the remaining two minutes I was driving, it flashed up briefly twice more.
Now, in digging around on this topic, I've read about issues with the inverter coolant pump, and that there was a recall. How could I find some information on this recall? I don't remember ever having it changed, so I'm just curious what I might need to say to get that swapped out under a recall if appropriate.
Also, based on what I've said, does it seem likely that the issue is with that pump? It sure seems to fit the bill, but who knows. I'll be bringing the car in ASAP but I'd naturally like to be armed with as much information as possible.
My truck is a 2004 F150 XLT, 4.6L 2 wheel drive extended cab
The truck starts fine. With no lights on, heater/ac blower turned off... my turn signals and hazards work as they should.
If I turn on my headlights, I have no turn signals and the indicators on the dash are slightly lit up along with my highbeam indicators. The actual dash lights do not come on.
The blower does not work at all regardless of whether the lights are on or off. Turning the blower on immediately creates the same issue as the lights. (no turn signals, slightly lit up indicators, etc). The blower does not work on any speed. I can hear the duct work changing direction behind the dash as I move the blower selector from dash to windshield to floor, etc. I can also hear the compressor kicking on for the AC.
What I have done: I have checked all the fuses. I have attempted to remove every one of them while running to see if anything shutting off would let the blower kick on. I have unplugged the blower entirely wondering if there was a dead short. I have removed and unplugged the resistor to see if that might be an issue. I have also removed the right side kick panel and checked the ground wire there that runs to the dash. Everything so far seems to be in good order.
I have had this car for about a year now, no problems other than the check engine light has come on and after a code check found out its the Cat converter *yay*.
Most recently the A/C blower is working rather intermittent, can start off blowing just fine and then the blower seems to decrease while the screen still shows it on high. AC temp is just fine, just the blower is having issues. Sometimes it will turn off all together and not come back on at all for several hours. I am thinking it might be the fan motor, but I don't know enough about these cars to say for certain.
AS topic states, it just stopped working on my wife's drive home from work... I believe the fuse is the 2nd one from the top.. far left... I checked it, and it's in-tact...
View 3 RepliesCar: 2007 Sonata 2.4L
I hadn't used my car for like 3 weeks until yesterday when I drove back to PA from MA. I turned the car on, a/c on and went for a nice 6 hour drive. About 2 hours in (with a/c working) I stopped for a break. The a/c blower would not turn on at that point. I could hear the compressor clicking on (and the RPMs would respond appropriately). I tried turning it off and on a couple of times but no go. I decided to keep on driving and figure it out when I got home.
About hour 5 I turned the knob from OFF to Max A/C and it turned on! It worked fine all the way home. I drove the car a couple of more times last night with no A/C issues at all. Well today the same thing happened. Went to go drive and no a/c blower. Compressor still turning on. I changed the only fuse/relay I could find that was dedicated to the blower inside the engine compartment (40A) with no luck. Am I missing any other important fuses?
Being that it intermittently works I'm thinking something might be lose or some electrical connection.
2005 F150 5.4L A/C stopped working. All fuses are good. If I jump the two inboard terminals on the relay under the hood my A/C comes compressor engages and A/C works. The relay seems to be good, so where do I go next? The relay has no diagram on it so i do not know which side is coil and which side is "contact/switch" but if I plug it in I can feel it "click". How do I definitively test this relay and if it is working, what is the next step to troubleshooting.
View 7 RepliesTurning the fan knob yields no results. The AC compressor does kick in as I can feel it when I turn it on when idling, so the knob appears to work. The blower does not move air.
I checked the fuse below the steering wheel and the fuse makes a complete circuit although the edge looks a bit darkened. Other fuses from working devices look the same and I took a spare 10A fuse from the designated area and inserted into the blower motor fuse location - still nothing.
I will also inspect the relays/fuses in the engine compartment to see if anything in there looks blown that's related to the blower motor. Hopefully it will be something simple, but probably not...
I will need to take it in to get it looked at and fixed, and this is probably not under warranty since vehicle has 56k miles... while I'm there I'll have a transmission fluid exchange done as well and I was planning on getting some body work done.
My bumper was torn off from the fact that it sits low enough that sometimes it would go over the parking stump. Well, it eventually got caught really bad and tore it off. Now the tab where the screw goes to secure the bumper has sheared off so it just hangs. Also, the tearing action from the parking stump caused the inner fender to come off and rub against my tire while driving, tearing it into shreds from the friction.
I have a Full Size 93, 5.8L Van. The blower motor has stopped working. I have checked the fuzes, ok. I have checked the Power Distrubution Box, ok. I do have power to my Aux (rear) blower. I have hot wired my blower motor, it works. I have no power to the blower motor, thermal limiter, or to the fan control switch on the dash. (Like I said, the Aux on the dash works). What else is there?
View 14 Replies I was having a problem where my headlights were turning off every time I would turn my directional signals on (2004 F150). Started out that it was mainly during left turns, but recently it affected right turns as well. Did a bit of google research as well as asking a mechanic to take a look at it while he was repairing something else, and all signs seemed to point to a bad multifunction switch.
So I replaced the mfs, and now my headlights don't work at all. The high beams work when I flash them, but not when I click them on fully. The parking lights work as well as the directionals. Took the truck into Ford and they are saying the headlight switch is bad. Does this sound right? After blowing $100+ on a mfs I'd hate to drop on a headlight switch only to find that it too, doesn't fix the problem. Not to mention NOBODY around here seems to carry the switch in stock. I checked the 2 fuses for the headlights and they looked fine.
I own a 99 Suburban 1500 5.7. The front blower motor stopped working on all speeds so I replaced the resistor, it still did not work. I then replaced the speed selector switch and it started working fine. Three days later I smelled a slight electrical burning smell and the fan stopped working again. I plan on replacing the switch again to see if that is what went bad. Whats causing this to happen? Maybe the motor is going bad and causing the switch to short?
View 6 Replies