Prius (2004-09) :: 2007 With 45K Miles - Failing HV Battery?
Oct 15, 2010
The battery gauge on my 2007 seems to be dropping much faster than it used to. I can back out of my driveway with full green, and be down to purple in two miles of <45MPH driving. It also seems to recharge faster, as if the 'window' of usable charge has become much narrower.
I took it in for the 45K service, and asked the dealer to investigate. The tech wrote that everything is fine, and that this behavior is normal because "this is deep cycle battery".
Two questions: If the main battery fails completely, will the car still be driveable or will I be stranded at that point?
The little 12V battery is still the original that came with the car. Could it cause the above symptoms?
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i have a 2006 with almost 200k miles. Got the red triangle, check engine light, and the red car at the top of the MFD. I ran the codes and got P3000. Does this sound like traction battery failure? The car still turns on and ICE still cycles off and on.
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I have a 2005 Prius with 140,000 km (90,000 miles). The car was dented during hail and so it spent one month in the bodyshop. The damage was entirely cosmetic and the car ran perfectly when I dropped it off.
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A few weeks ago, I received the triangle light in my 2007 Prius with 125k miles on it. When I took it to the dealer, they said that the hybrid battery needed to be replaced. A new battery was ordered & installed by the dealer, which took a couple weeks as the battery wasn't in stock. When I picked up the Prius this week, within driving it a couple miles, it was apparent the A/C wasn't working. I took it right back to the dealer who said they'd look into it. When the Service sales guy started it again, it made a very strange noise as well, which it never did before. The dealer has come back and said that not only has the A/C Compressor out but the ABS actuator is also failing. They are saying this has nothing to do with the battery replacement but both these items were working fine before having the battery replaced
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Halogen Headlights keep failing on my 2007 Prius Hybrid. I'm starting a file on this because my headlights fail waaaaay too often. I first bought replacements from O'Rileys (don't know the brand) and one failed after only 3 months. . . they would not replace the bulb for free so I did buy one more bulb there. The next time I purchased two Philips bulbs at another parts store. The last ones I bought were from Napa Auto parts and I have to replace one of those. I am wishing I had kept better records because there have been more burned out low beam headlamps. . .never use the brights.
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As I was trying to use up as much E10 before refueling with E0 I was watching the miles to empty and noticed what seems strange, to me. When driving in EV mode, with the ICE off the miles to empty kept falling! Apparently miles to empty somehow includes EV miles. So I checked the MTE both before and after charging and saw no change which indicates EV miles don't count. So now I would like to know what does MTE mean?
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I'm new to this technology. I bought 2008 t spirit prius . The battery drains in couple of miles. I don't know what to check .
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First time I've ever noticed it at least. And she's been on 2 huge x-country road trips with much hotter temps than the other day.
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My car is an 05 and currently has 219,000 miles. Runs great. Only things I've replaced are the 12 volt battery and the rack and pinion. Replaced the rack because I was trying to drift in the snow and tried to beat the traction control. Needless to say, I lost and hit the curb. Jammed the gear in the left side of the rack. Replaced the rack with a $75 used one and no problems since.
My issue is this, even if my battery is at 6 bars when I first take off, my hybrid battery drains down to even as low as 1 bar. It only got down to 1 once but is hitting 2 regularly. After about 3-10 miles it is back to the regular charge rate. I also noticed the other day with the window down, there was a slight whirring sound, almost like a gear or wheel that is a gummed up and is being slowed down. It also felt like there was resistance, almost like the brake was dragging. After a few miles, as in less than 5, the noise was gone and the car was going along just fine. I've checked the emergency brake to see if it's dragging by applying it and releasing it several times. Does not appear to be the issue. Today I put it in neutral to see if that changed anything but it did like it always does and just coasted along fine with no resistance. My thought is the transmission. I'm wondering if the fluid it so old and broken down that maybe things are gumming up. Either way, I purchased the tranny fluid and will change that out. I know people will probably gasp but I have never changed it. Actually thought because it's a cvt and there is no dipstick to check it, that it doesn't need changed. After reading up yesterday I discovered I was mistaken.
I think that's about it. I'll edit it if I think of something more. Once the battery is back up to charge it accelerates and drives like normal. I do want the car to last so my daughter can use it when I buy the new Prius Prime.
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Trying to figure out whether to fix or scrap our 2005 Prius with 193,000 miles and a mysterious 12V battery problem. What would you do in my situation?
We've had a recurring problem with the 12V accessory battery: I have replaced it myself three times. The last failure was the most mysterious, because after replacing the 12V battery for the third time, I conducted nearly daily voltage tests using the Prius' "secret" vehicle signal check. Voltage coming off of the 12V was normal, if not high the entire time in all of the Prius's various starting and ready modes. I wired up a solar panel to trickle-charge the 12V battery when we weren't around, and we plugged the 12V in at night to a trickle charger to keep the battery topped up.
Nonetheless the day came a few months after the latest replacement when we had our usual 12V failure symptoms: the time on the clock started resetting, the car didn't turn on on the first press, the Prius computer rebooted, and eventually the car wouldn't start without a jump start. This has been super-frustrating, and googling around, I haven't been impressed by people's reported experiences trying to have the dealer try to resolve such problems. My worry is that a dealer repair person will change the accessory 12V battery without fixing the underlying problem. I would suspect a parasitic draw somewhere, but voltage tests when the car was overnighted without any kind of charging did not suggest a serious voltage draw on the 12V battery.
Other details about the car: our keyless entry hasn't worked for several years (dead batteries in the key fob?) and we open the car manually using the key each time. We stick the fob in the slot each time we want to start it. MPG is comparatively low vs. other Priuses, perhaps 44-45 MPG, and lower when the 12V battery starts to die (37-40). I have had the car serviced (oil, etc.) like clockwork every three months; recently, I've noticed the engine is starting to burn oil a bit (level is reported low on each change).
Most of the driving has been done in the flats and the heat of California's Central Valley, and we've put something like 120,000 miles on it just in the last five years. Besides the fact that the 12V battery keeps dying, the car has been very reliable.
We just inherited a free Prius with just 60,000 miles on it, and I have a 1993 Camry with 150k miles on the chassis and maybe 60k miles on the replacement engine I had dropped into it a few years ago. The Camry just passed California's smog test and seems to be running well. We don't want or need three cars.
Our choice is to try to fix the Prius with 193k miles on it and donate the Camry (which gets about 20 miles to the gallon, the horror...), or keep the Camry and donate the Prius. My instinct is to not drop thousands of dollars into the high-mileage Prius, especially if these issues might be pointing to a dying main battery.
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Typically, our GX cranks and starts fine...after turning over once or twice. However, recently it's been slow to start. Today, I felt as if there weren't enough CCA. Battery is 2 yrs old (about 23K miles old) and the alternator was replaced about a yr and a half ago. I suspect it's the battery, however what are the symptoms of a failing starter? How difficult it is to replace the brushes or change it with a remanufactured one on a 2006? Is there a DIY on the starter? I just want to cover all the bases...just in case.
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My 2007 (with Nav package and aftermarket Sirius radio) recently started losing channel settings on the Sirius (not on the FM radio!), the dash clock resets, and, recently, the miles-per-gallon and miles driven since last fill-up reset to zero. These events are sporadic, but have started occurring more often. The dealer seems unable to figure out the problem.
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Yesterday when i was driving on highway on my dash board the lights came on: the check engine light, master light, brakes lights. After driving couple of miles my car completely shut down. I took the exit and after that the car didn't start at all. Even i couldn't start the ignition to connect my OBD scaner to read the codes. Now I even can't do something to read the codes or to turn the engine on somehow, what to do.
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Recently my 2011 f250 sd 6.2s check engine light came on so I took it to my local dealer it was throwing a p0430 code, they said bank 2 cat converter wasn't do it's job so it needed to be replaced. I am concerned that there is an underlying cause of the premature cat fail. I pushed the issue with the service manager and he told me that's all they could do was replace the cat and refused to check anything else on the truck. Is this common? The truck runs and drives fine. I'm just concerned that they are just throwing parts at it to get it out the door.
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So it looks like the battery in my Key Fob has died. I've had some trouble replacing it, so for the past week or so I've been forced to use the physical key every single time. It's getting pretty annoying now, so I've decided to figure this out once and for all. From what I gather, the replacement should be battery number 2032.
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My concern: The hybrid battery, or the monitor really, has never, ever, not once, shown an all-bars charge. It is almost always at one bar down, and will drop below that but never goes above. My brother has a Gen I and his battery shows all bars from time to time. Not mine.
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I had my Prius check out and gave me these trouble codes couples battery's low he has a red triangle ....
P0A78
P3000
P0A80
P03014
P0315
The battery's rating 13.5 volts. Will always trouble codes go away after replacing the battery I added inverter to it because it was it was dying after 50 miles per hour then it slowed down??
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Loaned my car to a friend who left something on and drained the 12v battery. Some "good person" tried to jump start the car and was unsuccessful. When I got there I attempted to jump start from the front and direct to the battery in the back, both unsuccessful. After having it hauled back, I charged the battery with my charger, no luck. When I put the keyfob in, press the break, and push the power on button; get green light on the power on button and a check engine light on the panel. This 12v battery is original battery and car has 100K miles.
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We have 2 Priuses, and our older one has started draining battery quickly. It's my husband's primary commute vehicle and we're wondering if it's age related. We have had to do nothing except replace the regular battery once a few years ago. I spoke with a friend who has the same model year as us and she said they recently had to replace one of the hybrid cells (pardon me if this isn't the right terminology, we're not car people).
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I have a 2007 Prius Package Six. I went away on vacation over Christmas and when I got back the battery was dead and the car wouldn't start. No problem as I was easily able to jumpstart it with a portable battery jumpstarter. However I kept having the same problem as apparently the battery wasn't maintaining a charge. So obviously my battery is kaput and needs replacing. I've watched the videos and plan on replacing it myself.
However when I went out this morning to jumpstart the car it wouldn't jumpstart at all. When I hook up my battery jumpstarter nothing happens. Nothing lights up. The car won't start. Even if my 12v battery is completely dead and cannot maintain a charge, shouldn't I still be able to get the car started with a jumpstart? I realize that as soon as I turn it off I will have to jumpstart again. But I can't figure out why a jumpstart won't even get the car fired up.Am I missing something?
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2007 Prius with 88K miles.
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