Prius (2004-09) :: 2007 - Total Loss Of Power?
Nov 24, 2012
I drive a 2007 Prius, I just purchased it about four months ago. Today after filling up with gas I drove about 60 miles and suddenly three lights on my dash came on. The all system light (the red triangle), the check engine light as well as the VSC or VCS what ever way it goes, my electric batter was also low on charge having only one bar(my car is not a plug in, the battery is recharged by the engine) then the car lost all boost and while pressing on the gas it was not accelerating. I pulled over and put it in park so the battery could charge. It charged to half way, however the lights stayed on.
My car then started running really rough, I am still in park at this time. I put some gas stabilizer in my tank because I thought maybe I got some bad gas. I left my car sit for about five minutes before turning it back on. All the lights were off except my check engine and my car started running normal. Then about three minutes later all the lights came back on and the car started running jerky again. When I push the gas to move I can, however I've only gone about four feet because it is running so rough.
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We have a 2011 Santa Fe we got last October. We have had four different instances where the vehicle suddenly stalled out. The first was within a few weeks of purchase and was blamed on a loose battery negative post that prevented the battery from recharging correctly. When we called the dealership service department we were told that we were not driving it long enough to recharge the battery and that the battery light would go out once it recharged. Well all the lights went out when the car died going through an intersection at night with my wife at the wheel.
The second through fourth issue is that without warning there is a total loss of acceleration then the engine light comes on. The first time this happened my wife was able to steer off the road and after a few minutes was able to restart and drive the car home. I then drove the car about a mile when it happened to me. The car was towed to the dealership where they said there was a required software update. Really?? After that it drove fine for about a month then stalled when my wife was merging onto a freeway.
The dealership checked and found three active codes: P2106 Forced Limit Power, P2110 Force Limit RPM and P0638 Throttle Actuator Control Range. They also checked TSB updates and found (12-FL-004) for ECM. They also called Tech Line and recommended change of Throttle Body Assembly. This is all under warrantly. We got the car back yesterday.
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After installing new struts and springs, I have now lost power steering. The car was fine after the strut install, but after driving a bit, the power steering quit. Can this be related the install, or completely unrelated?
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Driving the 98 Passat this morning everything fine. Then total loss of power, give it any gas and it stumbles and almost dies. Idles fine, can rev it in park or nuetral. Starts and idles fine, give it gas and it starts to move thens just dies down. If leave foot on accelerator, will move at idle pace but stumble with no power whatsoever. No "check engine" light. DOn't have a VAG tester but do have OBDII. Haven't checked if any stored codes. Will an OBD code be stored an not light up the CEL?
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The other day I was driving down the 710 I-CA at around 80mph but as soon as I got on the east ramp for the 105 fwy I lost total power as the engine had just cut off and my check engine, battery, and oil lights went on so I came down the ramp in neutral. As soon as I stopped I popped the hood and saw that everything was ok I tried to restart the engine but it didn't work.
At the time the starter would crank the engine so I thought that the alternator was the problem. I had it towed home and changed the alternator but now when I try to start it all I get from it is a single crack from the starter and no crank. I tried to move the engine by hand and it wouldn't budge. I opened the engine thinking if could be that the timing chain broke but it is completely intact. My car is an 04 Toyota Matrix XR with a 1ZZ-FE engine....
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I recently had the high and low pressure tubes on my power steering fail causing a total loss of fluid. After about a week of living with manual steering, I brought it in and had the tubing replaced. Everything worked fine, though the steering felt a bit sloppy to me. Today, on my way home from a 100 mile trip, the car decided that turning left just wasn't something it wanted to do.
So to turn left, I would have to back up and turn the wheels to the right. Not exactly an efficient way to drive in traffic. Do I try to get the car back into my mechanics place to see if he can fix it for a reasonable amount, or should just bite the bullet and look for a newer car? BTW when I had brought the car in for the tubing replacement, they showed me where the bracket holding the strut on the left had begun to crack, probably from driving without the power steering. 1998 Malibu LS ....
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1965 F100 300cid electrical drain...
I am attaching a link to my thread in the 1960's truck forum : [URL] .....
With my limited skill level, I have given up! It could very likely be something I am doing wrong with the diagnoses/troubleshooting.
Basically, When I turn the key to start the truck, I get a clicking solenoid at best and what appears to be a total loss of power. Not even the dome light will come on. The starter is new as is the solenoid.
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I have a 2007 Chev Tahoe. Description of Problem: Past month engine light came on. Then some days for a short time will go off. When light is on the auto start wont work. Battery has been drained so today I changed the battery and have a total electrical power system failure. Zero power to anything. Last month I put a scanner on it but i didnt save the code. It was related to a "throttle body module" i think. Have been reading about the BCM also so im at a complete loss...
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In the last 5,000 miles or so, my 2007 Prius has been really burning oil and intermittently the cruise control stops working. No warning lights. Car sounds and feels as usual. 235,000 miles on it. Water pump, thermostat and drive belt replaced 3/2013. Check engine light has been on since about then and diagnosed then as either catalytic converter and/or oxygen sensors and I chose not to fix those as was told not necessary until.
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I just got the spark plugs changed in my Ford F-150 the other day for a misfire problem. Misfire is gone now. But, as I was testing the truck to see how it performed after the spark plug change, I noticed that as it was raising speed with my foot to the mat, the engine felt as if I was slightly letting off the accelerator and then slowly pushing the pedal back to the floor. It loses power as if you're getting ready to slow down for something and then slowly the power comes back and it does it off and on throughout a WOT run from lets say 40-75 MPH.
2007 Ford F-150 SuperCab, Lariat, 4X2, 5.4L 3V.
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07 f150 screw 5.4 104+ miles, loss of power and ticking noise (sounds like no oil)on passengers side, no engine light, no codes, ford dealer changed coil packs and plugs, inspected valve gear on passengers side and nothing seemed out of spec, no broken springs, followers, lifters, manifolds on both sides have been replaced very recently.
The ticking noise began about a week after an oil change, truck runs fine but no power/sluggish. exhaust is magnaflow side exit and seems to be louder inside the cab than usual or could be just me.
Truck had a miss that i was trying to find prior to oil change and ticking noise. it ran well for a week with the tick before (and miss) the loss of power which started after a 30 min drive under load up hill. it almost felt and sounded as if the muffler was dragging on the road for about 100 feet, ran fine for two miles until it was shutdown. restarted fine but flat when you get into it.
Clogged cat/cats; internal damage to muffler, oil issue even tho the gauge reads fine.
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i have an 07 ford f 150 5,4 liter. at speeds between 45 and 55 it has like a sputtering and jerking loss of power. I had a computer hooked up to it and it said fuel pump replaced it but it is still doing it, what this might be.
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I recently bought a 2004 Prius with 104,000 miles on it. When I try to go up into the mountains I only get a few miles or up to 1,000 to 2,000 ft. elevation (from 300 ft. starting) and the battery level gradually drops from 6 bars to 1 bar. The red triangle light and check engine light comes on and the car speed gradually begins to drop even if I continue to press on the gas pedal. I have only gotten down to about 35 MPH from 60-65 mph before stopping and turning around. Within a few miles of turning around the light goes off and the battery goes back up to 6 bars and works good going down hill. The dealer I bought the car from has been working with me to figure out the problem but so far we have not figured it out. He has replaced the main battery as well as the inverter/converter. The mechanic was with me on a test drive to the mountains and had his car computer plugged in while we drove and experienced the same thing. It gave the code for the catalytic converter so we changed the entire CC/muffler (one long piece) and still got the same code. The battery indicator on this car has never shown more than 6 bars. I'm not a Prius mechanic but I personally think it has a bad "Gas Engine" or something wrong with the gas engine. How do I tell if the gas engine is bad or has a problem?
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Purchased a used 2006 prius with ~180K miles on it from south bay a few months ago. At the time of purchase the guy warned us that it 'ate' motor oil.
After 2 months of driving without issues (driven couple of hundred miles), on an uphill road the engine overheats and throws the red triangle, vsc and check engine lights on the dash, along with loss of power. After cool down I check oil level and sure enough it is low, since this is on top of a hill we essentially coast all the way back home without any real issues. Once home I top up the oil. I do a test drive around the block without issues (no loss of power) though the check engine/red triangle/vsc lights are still on. But after I take it for a longer drive the loss of power returns.
Since my bluetooth obd2 connector wasn't working I borrow one from my friend and try to get a read. Unfortunately the thing puts out no obd2 error codes. Living in the bay area I apparently cant just take it to an autozone, to get code readings. I take it to meineke auto repair, they too are unable to get an obd2 read, and want to charge me $100 for a full reading, which I decline.
I do a few diagnostics steps including 'resetting' the computer by leaving it off of the 12v battery for a few mins, this clears the red triangle et al on restart. I do a test drive, at first everything is working just fine, but after about 10 mins or so of driving the red triangle/check engine/vsc lights returns, along with loss of power. (under ~20 mph only, cant go uphill).
Take it to a mechanic and they come back with code: "APOA92. Trans Axel issue - MG1 performance is off. Measured torque is different than executed torque, enough to be a problem. 95% sure it is the transmission." I still haven't checked the 12v battery.
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With only 356k miles on my 06, I'm now getting a sudden drop/loss of power at high RPM. At about 80mph on flat land (or about 60mph up hill) if I try to accelerate the power drops off as a fluttering sound starts (not engine knock). The fluttering sounds like 6 inches of celophane tape flapping in the wind at highway speeds.
I just cleaned my K&N air filter, but the plugs, injectors and fuel pump are original. I ran 1 can of injector cleaner (SeaFoam from O'Reilly) with little to no improvement. I'm guessing it's the fuel pump/pressure, since it runs fine at lower RPM, with no loss of mpg or power (still 50mpg average). I know the fuel pump is in the tank ($400 in parts alone). I'll see if I can measure the rail pressure with Torque and my CANBUS scanner.
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Had A/C go out while in Vegas almost 2 weeks ago. Dealer said compressor dead, replaced at my dealer back home, now having loss of power issue's, poor acceleration, 29mpg, & bad smell like transmission fluid or catalytic converter... Problems noticed after picked up car, then went away, now back.. No codes on the scantool, no lights etc.
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I had the cruise control set on the speed limit going up a hill. Half way up, the cruise control dropped as did my speed from 70 to 56. There were no warning lights but the battery meter was in the one bar pink range. I managed to continue up the hill at 56 mph by flooring the accelerator. When I got to the top and started to regenerate power to the battery, I regained power and speed. I am discussing a 2008 Prius with 89k miles. What the issue may be ( like battery pack declining efficiency)?
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After successful 4kwh install I was coming off interstate at 65 mph avg. when red light began to show on phev switch. Of a sudden the ice revved to 3700 rpm and loss of power. I was only able to get up to 25mph after red light. The ice continued to rev and of course the dash lit up like a christmas tree. I got to top of hill and pulled over and shut it down. I started it up and every thing worked fine except the red triangle and check engine light were still on and all the other lights were off.
I pulled into BachmanToyota about five miles further and their tech said this: "There is a code poa92 detail 606//adv there is a cust.modified addtional battery,in which we cannot svc." He cleared the code and I drove it home a total of about 60 miles and it is fine. What went on ?
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We are original owners of a 2004 Prius with 165K miles. We've taken excellent care of what has been a great family car. A couple of months ago, we got a check engine light associated with a catalytic converter error. We first replaced the oxygen sensor, which temporarily eliminated the error light, but the car really loses power, especially when a load is placed on it going up hill. The power loss is associated with a fluttering noise coming from within the engine and the battery display showing that it is not charging sufficiently.
We took it back to the dealer and they replaced the exhaust manifold gasket and suggested we replace the catalytic converter (> $2000) but also recommended a local exhaust specialist who could replace the catalytic converter for much less. The exhaust shop examined the car and told us the catalytic converter was fine and did not need replacement. There are no more error codes, and the dealership and their service department shows no interest in repairing our car.
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I have a 2009 Prius with about 72k miles on it. Today, after about 45 minutes of highway driving, these lights all came on: master warning, the "check" indicator, VSC, the circle brake indicator, and the hybrid system warning on the multifunctional display.
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Hesitation and power loss have returned. I removed all four spark plugs and found that the spark plug on the driver side of the engine, or side closest to the inverter, and its coil pack were covered in dried/sticky oil with no loose oil present around them. Pics added to new post #11 of coil pack and spark plug.
I couldn't find anything that really matched the symptoms I was having this afternoon on the way home from work. After letting the engine idle for about a minute to get through Stage 1, I pulled out of work but noticed I kept hearing a slight whining from the inverter (radio was off and windows were down) while going uphill on the road out of our parking lot. Speed was in the range of 25 to 30 MPH.
Torque showed I was pulling between 10 and 20 amps from the HV battery but what I noticed that was REALLY weird was that the timing advance gauge showed I was running around 2 to 3 degrees (?) instead of normally being around 13 or 14+ depending on how quickly I'm accelerating.
And the more acceleration I demanded, the the more amps were coming from the battery and the RPMs on the engine would go up, but the timing advance still remained below 10 degrees. I didn't hear any knocking but I could definitely feel the lack of power.
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