Prius (2004-09) :: 2007 - Rough Engine Idle?
Jan 23, 2013
My 2007 prius has been idling very roughly recently. It seems to be every time the petrol engine kicks in when the main battery is low and charging. A few weeks back, the malfunction indicator light came on and i took it to the dealer. They said my spark plugs had a lot of carbon build up on them so they cleaned them up and put them back in. Also it was missfiring from time to time. The light went away but it is still idling rough if not rougher then before they cleaned the spark plugs. Its not just like that in the morning. Even if my car has been sitting in 40 degree celsius heat all day it still idles like that. They recommended I use better quallity fuel. I used to use E10 but when I was doing long drives, i filled up with normal unleded. I havent used E10 since then. It never had the rough idle problem when I was using E10 so I am curious to think my car may not like normal unleded. The fuel quality here in Brisbane Australia isnt known for its poor quallity. I'm not sure what to do next. People have recommeded for me to use Wynns Spitfire fuel treatment to keep the spark plugs and injectors clean.
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Still showing the same codes (per repairman) and still having the intermittent rough idle at low speeds when the engine is warm. It has been so intermittent that I could almost live with it.
So repair guys first replaces the VCT's and runs fine until warmed up and the problem reoccurs with the same codes. He replaces both cam phasers and tensioners today and still same problem and same codes which point to the VCT and cam phasers.
Truck has 80k, city driven, oil changed every 3k or so. Burns ethanol and still runs great at speeds over 10 mph even when this problem appears.
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I have an 07 with the 3.3L and on start up the engine runs really rough and while driving when warm it keeps losing power with a regular rhythm. It almost feels like and injector or ign coil is dropping out. I have no CEL and have recently changed the spark plugs and rear upper O2 sensor.
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I have a 2008 Santa Fe 2,2 CRDi that recently started to behave bad. When cold it starts but runs only for a few seconds before it dies. The engine seems to shut off without any notice. I am able to start the car again straight away, but the same thing happens.
If I try to push the throttle I might be able to keep it running for a longer while, and it seems to improve as the engine gets warmer, but it still dies after a while. (Some minutes.) When running, the engine feels kind of rough (hard) and not a smooth as its supposed to be.
I have cleaned the EGR valve, and replaced all the injectors. I also checked the diesel filter for water and flow, but didn't replaced as it was changed this summer.
The car is a no runner as it is now, since the uncontrolled shutdown of the engine makes it danger to use in the traffic.
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My 07 F-150 5.4 has a rough idle during a cold start for about 1 minute. It happens mostly when the weather is chilly or cold. Also after the first start it doesn't do it the rest of the day. Of coarse they can't find anything wrong and tell me there are no updates for anything like that.
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1997 lexus ls400 204500 miles, engine light is on code P0340 (cam shaft position sensor bank 1), rough idle at start, once the car warms up it runs ok but loss of power, hesitates, if press more on gas pedal the car jerks. I have replaced both cam shaft position sensors and engine coolant temp sensor but no improvement. What could be the problem?
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I have a 2007 F250 4X4 6.0 diesel. When first started it idles extremely rough to a point it sounds like a old gas engine missing. But after it warms up for about 15 minutes it runs and idles like a new truck. I'm thinking it's the injectors if so is this something I can change/clean ....
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I have problem with my 2006 Prius , idle shaking and when the engine stops its really rough.
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I purchased an '08 F150 about 6 months ago, and have a problem that two mechanics haven't been able to solve. The truck has a 5.4L engine. Unfortunately, I bought from an auction and the 30 day warranty expired before I realized the problem.
After a longer drive (30 minutes to work) the engine is warm, and I always back into my parking spot or driveway. In low gear, it begins to idle very rough and the engine shakes. If I leave it long enough, it will stall. Usually I pop it into neutral, give it some gas, and its fine. I just bought a camper trailer, so I'll need to use the lower gear when backing up.
So far, the engine has been flushed twice, the solenoid replaced and phaser replaced. The second mechanic has recommended I contact a dealer, but haven't had luck with them with my previous Explorer. What it could be? I will be getting the diagnostic paperwork this week.
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I have a 2008 Ford F150 4.6L and its been broken down in our shop for quite some time now. It started acting funny when I could not get the truck to do over 80kmh. Slow acceleration, and a horrible shaking when it idled. Eventually it was undriveable since I could go above 50kmh anymore. From looking online we replaced the plugs and coils. We removed the intake to find the gaskets were shot so coolant was leaking into the spark plug tubes which could've been the cause of a misfire. Fixed that. Still the same. We replaced the egr valve and dpfe sensor because we keep getting the P0402 excessive egr flow code. Still no luck. My dad is a journeyman hes just not too familiar with newer trucks.
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I own a 2007 prius, it has about 320,000 miles. It has recently been diagnosed with a #2 and #4 cylinder misfire. The car severely idles rough, but when getting in the gas it goes away. I have replaced the spark plugs, the old plugs were very white(lean), replaced fuel injectors, used fuel injector cleaner. I've sprayed carb cleaner around the intake to see if I might a leak--no leak. The motor uses about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles since about 100,000 miles. I'm just guessing, could it simply be low compression causing this? I pulled the new spark plugs after about 5,000 miles and they where white also.
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In reading a lot of the threads here, it seems that my traction battery or inverter is dying/dead? 2004, 135,000 miles.
A couple months ago, got the triangle of death and parked it at my office. Next day, came back and it drove fine. Then, a couple weeks ago, drove 100 miles fine, parked at the house. An hour later I hopped in the car and didn't get more than two miles down the road before it died. Came back a couple days later and it drives/runs fine, battery at 50%+ on the MFD. Had it towed to shop and they haven't had time to look at it, so I'm going to figure it out myself. I don't have a scanner but want to get one.
As described in the thread title, the ICE won't even run, and the traction battery drains down to one bar. If I let the car sit for a day or two, it will probably run, but I know there's something that needs to be addressed. Is it the traction battery, or possibly the inverter?
I called the dealer to do the inverter coolant pump recall, but they said I did it back in 2011. Was the problem identified back then? Or are they lying to me?
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Ever since I've had the car, I've noticed after the gas engine kicks on, it runs a little rough for maybe 10-15 seconds. Only when it's sat for a while, hours or overnight. Replacing the plugs didn't work. Now, its not bad, not really a problem, but I'm wondering if the injectors might need cleaning.
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I have a 2004 gls 1.8t Jetta. It has a straight piped turbo back exhaust, and a stage 2 tune. I recently had a problem with my car starting to rough idle when the engine gets to proper temp. The car starts to idle roughly, and when driving the car will bog down, if I keep my foot on the gas, the car acts like it is coasting and the rpms fall, but at some point the car will shoot off like i floored it. At lower rpms in the 1st and second gear, the car will randomly and periodically start bucking, with the same symptoms. I already replaced my coil packs and spark plugs with a kit off ecs, and when i went to change the spark plugs i had oil on the spark plugs and oil leaking from a bad valve cover gasket, so that was replaced as well. I replaced the fuel filter already.
The MAF sensor was just cleaned and didn't look too dirty. When I unplug the MAF it still idles rough. The fuel pump relay can be heard working properly when the door opens. Another problem that sometimes occurs on cold start is if I don't wait long enough for the pump to activate or sometime right after it starts, the car will start partly then stall out. When driving and the car is bucking the exhaust gives rich fuel smell. Also when 2 stepping in the car (which I don't do very often), the CEL starts to blink and the car misfires and drives rough. I figure since I don't have many parts on it yet I probably shouldn't do it anyway so I don't blow up the engine.
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I just purchased my first F150, 4.6L V8, 55,600 Miles. It intermittently has a rough idle and only seems to be when the engine is hot. I've had engine and tranny mechanics look it. The spark plugs have been inspected and are within an acceptable range. The throttle body has been cleaned. There are no trouble codes of any kind. What I can check next?
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My 04 F150 has started having a rough idle. While in park the engine will stall out with the A/C off. Also when in drive the truck will idle close to 1000rpm's. I had to the fuel filter cleaned and also the MAF sensor cleaned. Also did a vacuum check on it. Pulled the code and it's throwing a Lean Code. What else should I be looking for?
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2004 F150 5.4 3v. I bought the truck with 102k on it, it now has 124k. In the morning, when the outside temp is between 30-50, the engine starts and runs fine. When I get to the first red light ( about 1 mile away) within seconds of the engine at idle, engine starts to run rough and CEL. Every time the code is p0351. If I let it sit in the driveway to full warm up... no problem. If I start the truck, shut it off and restart...no problem. It only happens at the cooler temps. I have changed plugs, used motorcraft, nickel antiseize, torqued, etc. Ford changed the coil, I have changed the coil, cleaned MAF. As soon as I cross the intersection, light stays on, rough running clears up, and runs like a champ for the rest of the day.
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I have a 2004 Malibu Classic well maintained 2.2 L engine 20k miles. When the engine is warm in drive at idle, the engine shudders vibrates the dash and steering wheel. It idles smooth when cold. In drive it settles to a base idle about 575-600 RPM. When I raise the RPM with the peddle just a bit maybe 50 RPM it idles perfect. Otherwise the engine runs perfect, air cleaner and plugs are like new. Is there any way to adjust the idle up or identify what sensor controls the idle?
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2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
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I have a 2007 F150 with the 5.4 FFV. Early last summer my truck started acting like the harmonic balancer was going bad, when it was hot out my engine would shake at an idle. Then in October it threw a check engine light, wouldn't get over 20 mph and was shaking the entire truck. The codes said my timing was out so I replaced the timing chains, guides and tensioners, which were bad on the passenger side. When I started it back up it ran rough, and the check engine light came back on with a "bank A over-retarded" code.
So I went back in thinking I had put the chain on one tooth off. Got it back together and it ran the same way. After doing some soul searching on this website I determined the VCT Solenoid for the driver's side may be bad, and I went back in a third time and replaced the solenoid. Now it runs worse than it did the first time, it won't even idle and it is nearly impossible to start in the first place... This truck only has 103,000 miles and was running great before this...
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My car is making this noise. Its only at idle. Doesn't affect fuel economy, just alarming.
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