Prius (2004-09) :: 2007 - HID Headlight Turns Off / Battery Clicks While Hitting Brakes?
Jul 11, 2013
Relatively new Prius owner. I have a 2007 Touring model. I have two concerns I'm hoping some veterans can address for me.
1. I noticed last night that my left HID headlight turns off randomly (I saw it in the reflection of the car in front of me). I turned off the lights and turned them back on, and the headlight was working again for about 5 minutes before turning off again. This consistently happens so I'm pretty much driving with only one headlight on. The right headlight isn't having this problem, luckily.
Looks like Toyota had a settlement over the issue. I would post a link but since I'm a new users it's not allowing it.
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When hitting the brakes, the 3rd tail light turns off and on in the middle portion of the reflector. The panel is removed from the inside of the car, as the truck has metal surrounding the top area.
How do you remove the 3rd tail light to check for loose connections or to replace the bulb? 2011 ES350...
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My daughter, after turning 16, has claimed our '07 with 170K as her own. Both my wife and daughter have been complaining that the car shudders when hitting the brakes.
For background, last fall, they heard a loud scraping noise coming from the front wheels, I decided that after 155K, it was time for a brake job. I pulled off the wheels and proceeded to swap the pads and rotors to discover that the scraping noise was coming from a rock caught between the hub and dust shield. Didn't really think about it prior to doing this, but this is a different beast when it comes to brakes and the pads still had plenty of life left on them. The piston on the right caliper refused to go back in to allow space for the new pads, so that needed to be replaced. Quite the frustrating job.
The brakes had been fine up until a month ago or so. I took it out for a test drive, but only detected a "shudder" when braking through about 20 mph. I didn't detect any pull in the brakes and the stopping power seems fine. They seem to experience something different than I do.
I plan on pulling the wheels off and having a closer look when our schedules allow. Is there anything in specific I should look for? The mechanical brakes kick in under 10 mph, correct? If the shuddering is happening above this speed, what in the regen braking system could cause this?
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Sometimes when I hit the start button it takes a couple of minutes for the AC to start blowing air. I even tried stopping and shutting off and restarting but it still took a few minutes to start blowing. It doesn't do this all the time just every now and then.
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I still have my 2004 Prius which currently has 264,xxx miles. The car runs very well (at least I think it does). I have always maintained it beyond what was required. Anyway, it has been very, very hot lately in south Florida (high 90's plus 50% humidity) so I do not know if that has anything to do with my problem. I have noticed that after I have driven the car for a while the engine periodically turns itself on when I am at a stoplight even though the battery shows practically full (full blue). The engine will continue to stay on until I resume driving. I have the AC on full blast as it is needed to keep the cabin cool. Otherwise, the car seems to be performing satisfactorily.
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I have an 07 Prius and the headlights started going out so I bought new HID D4R bulbs and they do the same thing. I want to replace the ballasts. How to do this? Any thing special about it?
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I can't seem to find definitive information on this subject.
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So I bought two new HID bulbs for my 2007 prius. Mostly it had been the left one that turned off after a while. So i put a new bulb in and it goes out after about 10 seconds. So i put the other new bulb in and it goes out after 10 seconds too.
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I got a 2007 f150 5.4 triton motor 94000 miles all stock just gots mod k&n filter top end rebuilt due to cam phasers and timing guides for the past year when i make a real sudden stop or sometimes quick turn the truck will bog a bit the i give it gas and will drop to 100 rpms and if i keep my foot on the gas the truck will die if i keep my foot off the gas it will keep rolling then die after attempting to accelerate fuel pump driver module is in good shape with spacers the old code i get when this happens is p0191 for fuel rail pressure sensor although i just replaced that what could it be?
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Just installed DDM HID 35w 5000K. But strange issue. If I turn on HID first before start the car, one side turns off by itself in few seconds every single time. However, HID (both sides) stay on fine everytime (so far ) if I start the car first then turn headlight on. Could it be bad ballast or else?
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Here is the story, My HID headlights at 45k miles started to flicker and within seconds turn off. My only solution was to turn the lights on/off but the problem would constantly reoccur.
After calling the dealership and speaking to the morons there, I decided to replace the bulbs myself. I successfully replaced both hid headlight bulbs and the bulbs seemed to work perfectly. Sadly, the next day I realized that bulbs would still go out, sometimes the left side, sometimes the right side, sometimes both sides.
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At about 92k miles (2 months ago), my 2005 Prius started having a battery issue... When going about 40 mph and above and not having to stop or apply my brakes, my battery would drain (to just 1-2 bars) in about 5-10 minutes and not recharge until I got into stop-and-go traffic (this would happen about 9 out of 10 times). Mpg was still pretty good during that time, but when I finally had to stop, the engine had to kick on to recharge the battery and my mpg just sucked...I went from averaging 45 mph to 39 mph.
I took my car into the dealership for them to have a look and to also perform my 95k service. When I told them that I feared the battery was dying, they said that the good news was that I had another year on my warranty (not sure if the battery warranty is extended in California). The service advisor eventually came back and stated that they had also observed the battery charging problem and that they had to pinpoint the exact problem (either an igniter, a battery cell, or something else that I can't remember). They even started the process of getting me a rental car for a couple of days.
However, the service advisor then came back and stated that no problem was found...he even walked me back into the garage where they were working on all of the cars just to ask the technician working on my car if there was a problem...he also stated that no problem was found. When I asked how initially a problem was found and then suddenly not found, I really didn't get a straight answer (I should have pressed harder). Anyway...after 10 hours in the shop, they pulled my car around and the manager came out to speak to me...stating how the 95k service showed no problems and how no problem with the battery was found. When I asked about how to prove to them that there really was an issue, he stated that if the problem kept occurring I could bring it back in and they could have one of their tech leads drive it home for the night as kind of a road test.
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I have a 2008 Prius touring edition. The passenger headlight starts on but then turns off after about 10 minutes. How to fix this issue?
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We’ve been running into a problem with the DRCC on our 2011 Model 5. In simple terms, the DRCC freezes locking onto car in front and activating the beeper/hitting the breaks even when no vehicle is ahead! So far, this has happened once to my wife (when she was making a 90 mile trip)
In all cases this has occurred as the car was passing a semi, when the front of the car was even with the semi drivers door. In one case, there was no car in front, just acted like there was one.
Whenever this occurs, the car continues to brake and the only immediate solution is to turn off the Radar. Also when we re-engage the DRCC, the unit is still frozen – braking for a non existent vehicle.
No problems turning the DRCC off and using the ordinary cruse. What seemed to “clear” the condition was pulling off the Interstate and turning off the car. I also noted that (after it had froze again) that when the ambient temperature had dropped below 90 degrees that the DRCC cleared. The first time my wife ran into this was hot too.
In summary, this has happened only when:
· Passing a semi
· Temperature is high (above 90).
I don’t believe that it is an alignment issue, as I’ve been amazed at how narrow the radar pattern seems to be (and very nicely tracks the steering).
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6 weeks ago my 2012 Tiguan, that I had only had for 7 months) was hit. I was sitting at a light and rear ended. Has been in shop getting the almost 10K damaged fixed while I drove a rental. Most of damage was to the rear drivers side and underneath as it messed up tire and all connected parts underneath. Body man was excellent and ordered all new parts and it looks perfect with no alignment issues, (which I was most worried about). I was so happy to get my Tiguan back home but it was short lived. Drove home, about 70 miles, then another 60 during the day and all was find except a little noise under the hood.
This noise is pretty normal as the Tiguan is somewhat loud going up hill and such. Later that evening we go in to leave and it wouldn't start. Just turns over and clicks/grinds somewhat, loudly then shuts down. Hasn't started in 2 days now. Right before we parked it the check engine light came on and the fuel was a bit low, but not empty. We added more gas, checked oil, etc. Three lights come one when you try to start it, battery, engine, and EPC. We have used a scanner and received codes for POO16 Crank Shaft Position/CAm Shaft position correlation/bank 1 sensor A. Not sure what to do at this point because it could be several different things and the nearest dealer is 75 miles away.
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So it looks like the battery in my Key Fob has died. I've had some trouble replacing it, so for the past week or so I've been forced to use the physical key every single time. It's getting pretty annoying now, so I've decided to figure this out once and for all. From what I gather, the replacement should be battery number 2032.
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My concern: The hybrid battery, or the monitor really, has never, ever, not once, shown an all-bars charge. It is almost always at one bar down, and will drop below that but never goes above. My brother has a Gen I and his battery shows all bars from time to time. Not mine.
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I had my Prius check out and gave me these trouble codes couples battery's low he has a red triangle ....
P0A78
P3000
P0A80
P03014
P0315
The battery's rating 13.5 volts. Will always trouble codes go away after replacing the battery I added inverter to it because it was it was dying after 50 miles per hour then it slowed down??
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The battery gauge on my 2007 seems to be dropping much faster than it used to. I can back out of my driveway with full green, and be down to purple in two miles of <45MPH driving. It also seems to recharge faster, as if the 'window' of usable charge has become much narrower.
I took it in for the 45K service, and asked the dealer to investigate. The tech wrote that everything is fine, and that this behavior is normal because "this is deep cycle battery".
Two questions: If the main battery fails completely, will the car still be driveable or will I be stranded at that point?
The little 12V battery is still the original that came with the car. Could it cause the above symptoms?
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Loaned my car to a friend who left something on and drained the 12v battery. Some "good person" tried to jump start the car and was unsuccessful. When I got there I attempted to jump start from the front and direct to the battery in the back, both unsuccessful. After having it hauled back, I charged the battery with my charger, no luck. When I put the keyfob in, press the break, and push the power on button; get green light on the power on button and a check engine light on the panel. This 12v battery is original battery and car has 100K miles.
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We have 2 Priuses, and our older one has started draining battery quickly. It's my husband's primary commute vehicle and we're wondering if it's age related. We have had to do nothing except replace the regular battery once a few years ago. I spoke with a friend who has the same model year as us and she said they recently had to replace one of the hybrid cells (pardon me if this isn't the right terminology, we're not car people).
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