Prius (2004-09) :: 2007 - Extremely Hard Braking At Low Speed?
Nov 23, 2011
My 2007 Prius brakes extremely hard at low speed (while I am applying the same amount of pressure). While decelerating, I let the regen braking do most of the work until I get to about 10mph, then I press the brake so I will have equal pressure until I stop. When I get to about 5mph I feel almost a lunge where the brakes aren't working as hard and then the brakes take hold extremely hard. My prius has been doing this for awhile not depending on the weather, but I finally noticed it worse than normal yesterday when it was raining and my car braked hard and actually skid and the traction control light came on.
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My steering got real "heavy" almost as if I had no power steering so I replaced the power steering pump. The steering got a little easier but is still very stiff. It's extremely hard to turn at low speed just off idle...I have to rev the engine a bit to get it to turn.This is on my 1999 7.3 f350...I've ran 33" and 35" tires on it it's whole life and this is the first PS pump I've replaced since 1999...never replaced the steering box.
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Bought my Prius (2005, with 160K miles) about a month ago and since I've had it I am hearing a metal on metal grinding noise when braking at low speed. How loud the sound is depends on how hard I am on pushing on the brakes. One of my co-workers has the same model and said that his does not make that sound. Not sure if its just because it has after-market brake pads or something? This noise only occurs when braking at low speeds (below 10 MPH) so I assume its an issue with the front brakes.
Is this something I need to get looked at by the dealership? I had a local mechanic that worked on my old Honda beater take a look and he said that the rotors and brake pads looked new and wasn't sure why they'd make noise.
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I have determined that I most likely have a bad CV joint - a faint clicking sound while braking that varies with speed that happens with the car in drive, but not in neutral.
I've also found instructions here on how to remove/replace the axle, but I'm wondering if it can be done without separating the tie rod end and removing the ball joint. On other cars I've managed to do this by unbolting the strut, which allowed the hub assembly to flop out enough to be able to slide the axle out of it. Is this possible on the Prius? I have to replace my struts anyway so I was hoping to do it all at once and avoid dealing with potentially frozen suspension components.
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I just had my front axels replaced. The Cv's were clicking. That problem was fixed.
Metal clunk at initial acceleration and hard braking (none during steering)...
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I've had it happen a few times over the past few years (07 Pri) that when I have to brake really hard, the front lower dash 12V lighter outlet fuse blows. Seemed odd at the time but when I replaced the fuse and everything came back to life I kind of forgot about it.
Today we had a crazy idiot try the mad dash across 4 lanes of traffic and that of course made all cars slam on their brakes. Wouldn't say it was a ABS type slam but certainly hard braking.
Anyway, I heard the chime of a 12V device powering off and a bit later we noticed the MFD, radio, and clock were all off. Probably everything cut out at the same time but obviously attention was on the traffic not the electronics.
I saw some people mention that is the ACC fuse which I'm about to go and check on, but what is causing this. Just seems odd that hard braking causes such electrical issues. Wouldn't think there would be an overlap in systems but maybe?
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This morning when trying to leave for work, my prius refused to turn on. When you press the brake so you can press the start button, the brake feels extremely hard, almost like it doesn't want you to press it. The light on the start button becomes orange after a pressing the button once. And on the dashboard screen (I don't know what call it on a Prius) in the very bottom right corner, a red notifications light flashes very quickly, so quickly that is hard to tell what it is, but by staring at it for like 30 seconds it looks like the symbol of a car with a lock attached to it. I may be wrong though. My Prius v is a 2012 model, trim three, and it has a little over 60,000 miles on it. I also have a prepaid maintenance through the dealership. I don't even know where to start.
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GS350 ... The behavior is such that under hard braking, the transmission struggles to get into 1st gear from any speed to 0 MPH. Only happens under hard braking. Basically it feels like the tranny is slow in getting back to first. If im driving at 40 and brake hard to 0, once i stop, the tranny feels like its still getting into 1st for the next 2 seconds and then it hurches confirming it has reached 1st gear.
The second behavior is that when I am driving at 70 MPH or any speed, and i brake hard to reduce speed 10-15 mph, the rpms will go from its normal 70MPH Rpm ~2000 RPM and drop to idle speed around 500RPM while the car is still at 60 mph.
Link " [URL] .....
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If the front rotors are warped would I not feel it when braking anytime and not just braking hard at high speed?
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My '07 shakes when braking below 7 mph. Coming to a complete stop is never perfectly smooth unless medium to hard braking is required. My thought was that the MG2 is in creep mode even while my foot is lightly on the brake pedal, causing the jerking, but creep works properly while not braking.
The shaking is very steady, at about 6 Hz, the same frequency as the "popping" noise one hears when stopped at the light with the foot lightly on the brake; just enough to keep the car from creeping, but not mashed far enough to turn off the creep current from the battery. I take it there's two sensors on the pedal as well as a potentiometer. Could the problem be mitigated if the creep current were cut off at the presence of a foot rather than having to press harder? There is no shaking on a harder stop, only the slow ones.
Another thought I had was that the pressure pump itself is supplying the brake pressure to the friction pads, causing the pulsing. In a previous thread, we discussed why my pump was coming on so often. Perhaps a leak in the canister causing the pressure not to be buffered, and the pump itself providing the pressure.
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So my dealer diagnosed my 2007 Prius with a transaxle issue, but what bothers me is that it doesn't make the sound all the time. When I brake lightly, there is no sound and when I brake heavily there isn't either. It is only when I do a medium brake above 7 mph of course and around 20's mph range. I am hoping for something besides the transaxle...maybe a wheel bearing...anything.
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I have an 03 F350 4x4 dually. Was pulling hard left at low speed when braking (front). Replaced pads, calipers, rotors, hoses and tires. Still the same problem. You can feel the abs activate right before it almost locks up the left front brake (basically will pull the steering wheel out of my hand). BTW the abs light does not come on.
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My 2007 Prius Touring creates high pitch Squeak/Whistle sound while accelerating and braking, But if I put the car on neutral then the sound completely goes away. I have all the holes covered on the both side mirrors and this still occurs. The sound is constant for as long as I accelerate and Brake and the intensity varies with how hard I accelerate or brake, It also does that during regen braking when I leave the accelerator. What could be wrong?
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2011 Santa Fe with 3.5L V6 and AWD, 38000 Kms:
Very recent work (last month or so) - new battery (old one had a bad cell), brake light switch and for a repair of the seat adjustment bar (not sure what it is called). The most recent oil change was done by me in November and I have only put about 1600 kms on it since. I put 5W20 Castrol Syntec and a made in Korea WIX filter. I fill the oil to just a hair below the top dot on the dip stick. I torque everything properly.
OIL LIGHT PROBLEM:
When I was driving home from work this evening, I had to brake a little harder than I normally would when I was turning into the back lane (about 8 houses from my house). I thought I saw the oil light come on, but I wasn't sure. I continued down the lane when someone walked out in front of me and I had to brake again. This time, the oil light did come on for sure and then went off when I took the brakes off. It was -20 C outside, so I continued to my house which was now 4 homes away. I braked to go into my (heated!) garage and the light came on again as soon as I touched the brakes.
I decided to let the car sit for an hour to get an accurate reading on the dip stick. I checked it and the level read exactly where I had filled it - just a touch below the top dot. I took the oil filter out to check that it was still seated properly and was not obviously clogged. It looked just fine. No signs of any leaks in the engine compartment or under the vehicle. I decided to take the car out again to go around the block - maybe not a great idea. The light didn't come on again when I braked until the vehicle had warmed up again.
What could the problem be?
I guess I need to take it in, but I start work at 7 AM and my wife is on maternity leave and she needs a car tomorrow. So, this means me taking the Yaris is out. She can't take the Santa Fe to the dealer with my infant son and so I guess I have to get it towed. This is bullshit. This POS has been in the shop several times since November.
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My 2009 Pkg 6 just started having VERY touchy brakes last night. It's almost as if there is a point where the brakes just lock up instead of a gradual regen, then gradual braking. My wife has been the primary driver for the last few days and she said the traction control light flashes briefly for yesterday but the brakes seemed fine until I drove it last night.
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I own a Jeep Grand Cherokee 2006 V8 4.7 with 133,000 miles. This week I went to a Quick Service Oil Change , after receiving an oil change they informed me I needed a Differential Fluid Change , that I "should have " had one at my last visit and couldn't wait any longer. After receiving the two , I left and not even fifteen minutes later , I attempted to use my breaks approaching the end of the highway.
Instantly the car started making an extremely long banging / thumping sounds along with the a lot of shaking and the car proceed to dead right there. I got it towed home , the company is supposed to send some one to come do a once over. What it could be? As sad as it sounds, I have a feeling they will do a look over and claim they don't know what is wrong or that it isn't there fault in any way.
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When I brake very hard my right front wheel will skid, it releases quickly if I modulate the brakes. I removed the calipers to check for any frozen pistons. They are free. Pads are even and the rotors are good. I did bleed the system and no difference. what would cause this? Since I have looked at the mechanical aspect I wonder if there is sensor issue, is that a potential? I am not even sure if there is a sensor.
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When I brake hard. My truck wants to veer right. It drives straight otherwise.
I recently had my front shock replaced and prior tp that my truck did the same thing, although it was much worse since my left front shock was leaking. Originally I thought it was pulling because of the bad shock but now that thet've been replaced I am not to sure.
Alignment issue or something else entirely? Coud bad rear shocks cause the issue?
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I have had my 2010 Prius for 6 months and have noticed that when I'm braking over an uneven surface my car seems to speed up. It's a very uncomfortable feeling. Is this a characteristic of regen braking or is there something wrong?
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I have never experienced what others have described as the brake delay issue, neither before nor after the ABS recall. I have even purposely driven over rough patches of road to try to duplicate.
After two days of rain, I noticed yesterday that my brake rotors were rusty. I remembered a comment from qbee42 about putting the car in neutral while braking in order to remove regenerative braking and to force friction braking to clean rusty rotors.
Yesterday I was approaching a stop light with plenty of distance and no one in front. I started braking around 45 mph with regenerative braking and then pulled the shift lever to neutral. When in neutral and with the regenerative braking removed, I felt the decrease in braking when transitioning to friction braking and I had to brake a little harder in order to have the same amount of braking as before in regenerative braking.
I can see where someone can "perceive" this as a surge forward but I only interpreted this as a decrease in braking force, as others have stated here many times.
I tried this again at the next stop light and felt the same "sensation" again and had to brake slightly harder when in neutral in order to have the same braking force. It was apparent to me that for the same brake pedal position that the friction brakes do not exert as much braking force as the same pedal position with regenerative braking.
Is this similar to what others are reporting as "brake delay" or "surge forward" issues?
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I need to know if this is considered "normal" behavior of the transmission. This cold morning while driving in traffic the car just jerked really hard while shifting from 3rd to 2nd and as described in other threads its like someone rear ended the car.
It has only 2650 km, it's a 2012 2.4 6sp automatic 4wd Santa Fe, should I waste my time going to the dealer? It only happened once, no engine light no nothing. Could it be just a "glitch" in the ECM? I read some other threads before posting, but they were a bit older. Has experienced such a shifting bang under low speed with so little mileage?
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