I just purchased a 2007 w/ Nav and evidently the last owner only had one key/key fob so I ordered another from the Toyota Dealership. I took the car today to have it programmed and to make a long story short, they were not able to program the key.
View 9 RepliesJust bought a 09 Santa Fe AWD 3.3l .. How to program this key fob/remote start 1 works the other does not do anything . The led light flashes when i push button but does not do anything to rig.
View 3 RepliesHow I can go about programming my smart key remotes to the memory positions of the vehicle? I had it all set up from the dealer and since then they had to disconnect the battery for something and now I don't have that feature. It was setup where I can walk up to the car and unlock it by the remote or door handle and it would put the memory position to that remote?
View 4 RepliesI purchased a NEW 2008 Hyundai Keyless Remote on the internet. It didn't come with programming instructions. How to program this remote.
View 15 RepliesWe bought our ES350 used a number of years ago. When we changed the battery, the Nav system no longer worked and a " A program cannot be read. Please consult to a dealer." message appeared. Am I wrong to assume that the loss of power from the battery swap caused the software to dump from the system and there was no disc installed to "reboot" the system? All I need is a disc and the system will restore? If so will an "update" disc work or do I need an original "program" disc?
View 1 RepliesI just took delivery of my 2004 325i and forgot to ask the dealership to program the key so the car would make a sound and would flash turn signals when I arm/disarm the alarm.
View 14 RepliesIn my generation 2 and 3 Prius, the Nav allowed me to program several destinations along the route of a trip. I can't figure out how to do the same thing with the Prius V. Does the new Nav in the V not have this capability?
View 7 RepliesI just bought a 2004 Phaeton V8. So far, it's great.
But I'm having trouble with programming the Homelink garage door opener. The instructions in the manual are the same as other cars I've owned - hold down buttons 1 & 3 until the light blinks, then press the button you want to program while also using the remote you want the car to learn. But when I press 1 & 3, no light begins blinking - I can't even find the light on the panel!
Since I cannot program addresses into the NAV system while my wife drives the car (or vice versa), I tried to just program them in while the car was parked on the driveway. However the car shuts itself off after about 2 minutes regardless of what I'm doing. I figure if I put the car into drive it would work, but I was charging at the time so the car wouldn't let me.
View 19 RepliesAs I had two extra keys from my last Prius (totaled 2010), I took them to the dealer to get them programmed - they spent gobs of time, but could not get them to register. They verified they were the correct keys - but in the end, could not get through to Toyota's higher level tech support to troubleshoot it....
They said they'd try again on my first service. Why there would be an issue programming extra keys???
I just purchased a 2004 rx330. I purchased a set of keys off amazon and tried to program them using Techstream. It will not allow me what so ever to program. it always gets to programming the key step and then says error between key and ecu. I have programmed tons of toyota keys using techstream and never had any issue with aftermarket keys so I bought another set from another vendor and they will not program either. I was able to manually program the remote for keyless entry so they will communicate with the car and are the right FCC ID number. I used to be a service advisor at Toyota so I do know more than the average person when it comes to these.
Also the power window master switch will not roll down the drivers side rear window or do auto for the drivers window. I have tried every combination to reset (we used to do them on the driver sometimes) and it still wont work. Drivers and drivers rear window buttons are flashing.
My 2007 Prius 4h with about 157k miles took a dump on Tuesday. My son was waiting for me in the car with both the air and the radio running on full blast. He'd pushed the power button twice (not sure if that matters) to get the air to run cold. After 20 minutes he turned it off. When I got back to the car, I push the power button and get a message stating "the P lock is not engaged" and to park on level ground, which I already was. I push the power button again start the car and all of the warning lights lit up, but the car didn't start. I push the power button and the warning lights would not go off. I had to push it a couple more times before they finally faded off. I tried to turn the car on again, same thing. No power. I lower the windows and they barely move. Eventually the car wouldn't respond at all. I had three different tow truck guys (they kept sending the wrong kind of truck) try to jump it.
View 16 RepliesI've got a 2007 Prius (Touring Edition) that has almost exactly 150,000 miles now. It's had a few issues (leaking water pump, bad HID bulbs constantly...), but those were nothing I haven't been able to fix myself. Moving forward...my car is turning at least all of it's electronics on by itself.
I first noticed an issue when randomly I would come out and it would be dead. So I'd jump it, and it would do fine for a while. Over the past two weeks though, it's been happening a lot. Until 3 times now I've walked by it and the radio was loudly blasting the default station. It's powered up, A/C on, radio on loudly to a default station, and all the stations on the radio and clock are reset.
Before I get told I'm not turning it off properly...I am. I have been insanely thorough on my procedures after the first time, and I actually make sure all lights are off, radio is off (even just the power of the radio), and A/C is off BEFORE I go through the proper procedure of turning it off and then locking it with my key from the outside. I even put my key on the hanger and go out and check that it's locked and off after doing this.
I have a 2007 prius. I parked it for 4 months and when I came back it wont start and there's a big red triangle and say 2007 prius transmission problem p lock mechanism. I have replaced the small auxiliary battery brand new but having the same problem wont start.
View 8 RepliesI bought my 2007 with almost 100K miles on it back in November. It's been a great car, and I had various maintenance done to it and did some myself. Looks like there's a problem with the A/C -- it's just not cooling the air. Yesterday was the first day in the sixties here in NJ, and the A/C just wasn't what an A/C is supposed to do.
The car was maintained at a dealership exclusively. Here's the entry about the A/C:
05/29/2012 93,478 AIR COND. INSPECT
If I have APR stage I and have the AWE exhaust available to me, could the APR chip be returned to match the AWE exhaust, even though the numbers may not be as high<
View 1 RepliesSo i recently got a used R and it failed to come with an owners manual and im trying to see what my MPG's are, how to set this wonderful feature?
View 12 RepliesI bought 3 new keys for my X and can't get them to program right. I've found a few different sets of instructions and tried them all and nothing
View 2 RepliesMy '07 Prius was running fine until. Pulled into the driveway and shut down then decided to back in some more. Powered ON and ABS and also the BRAKE light came on - car would not shift and the shift indicator & fuel gage started BLINKING. Shut down and repowered with same results.
I've checked the 12 volt supply and it is 12.7, even added a second battery to the engine bay jump start. I used an OBDII reader and get no codes only an E. No improvement .
My '07 shakes when braking below 7 mph. Coming to a complete stop is never perfectly smooth unless medium to hard braking is required. My thought was that the MG2 is in creep mode even while my foot is lightly on the brake pedal, causing the jerking, but creep works properly while not braking.
The shaking is very steady, at about 6 Hz, the same frequency as the "popping" noise one hears when stopped at the light with the foot lightly on the brake; just enough to keep the car from creeping, but not mashed far enough to turn off the creep current from the battery. I take it there's two sensors on the pedal as well as a potentiometer. Could the problem be mitigated if the creep current were cut off at the presence of a foot rather than having to press harder? There is no shaking on a harder stop, only the slow ones.
Another thought I had was that the pressure pump itself is supplying the brake pressure to the friction pads, causing the pulsing. In a previous thread, we discussed why my pump was coming on so often. Perhaps a leak in the canister causing the pressure not to be buffered, and the pump itself providing the pressure.
Both key fobs are acting the same way. The car wont turn on unless the key fob is in the dash. the rear hatch won't open unless the unlock button it is pushed twice then the rear hatch can be opened.
I did some searching and its looking like the 12v battery could be causing this. its an 3 year old optima.
Also we had about a 7-8 mpg drop on the last tank of gas.
car has 122k on it. its an 2007.