Prius (2004-09) :: 2006 Recently Started Bucking When ICE Engages Or Disengages
Jun 20, 2014
My 2006 Prius (156K miles) has recently started bucking and jerking when the ICE engages or disengages. The worst is if the car is stopped (brakes or in park) and the ICE kicks in (for instance if the A/C is running) - it will make the entire car jump. But it also happens in the normal course of driving, most often when the car is coasting for awhile and then I accelerate out of the coast - there is a noticeable jump as the ICE engages.
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My Driver's side headlight recently started 'switching itself off' - which I understand is a pretty common problem. I'd already had the Passenger side replace a couple of years ago - by the dealership. But this time I figured I'd do it myself.
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Whenever I open the door to get out of the car after it locks itself the lock rapidly engages and disengages until I push lock or unlock on the key fob. I hope the actuator isn't going bad. And wanted to see if there was something I could do to fix it before replacing the whole thing.
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I've got a problem with my AC Compressor, with the AC on the compressor engages then disengages about every 5 seconds. Now I looked into it and some people said you can remove a washer to remove a gap. Do you think I should change the whole unit? Looked online and I can get one for $100. If I do work on the AC compressor to try and fix it or remove the whole unit do I need to drain any refrigerant etc etc. I have a hayness repair booklet and they said that to remove the ac compressor you need to get it drained by professionals. Although on the compressor I only see a electrical plug and no hoses.
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1999 f250 super duty crew cab 7.3 psd : Why my 4wd is engaging and disengaging by itself? I recently had a vac leak which caused the HVAC controls to stop working and the ESOF stopped working also. I found a creak in the PVH solenoid and replaced it. I also replaced the 2 vac lines going from the hard line down to the hub. The HVAC controls work fine but now the 4wd is turning on and off when ever it feels like it. I have removed the selector button in the cab, disconnected the plug from the PVH solenoid, and even disconnected the vac lines from the hub. The problem still persists.
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I have a 2005 STX with the 4.6L, 4WD, AT.
The engine has started to make a loud whining sound recently. I replaced the belt and tensioner since it was original and had 93,000 miles on it. The sound is still there.
The sound increases with rpm but doesn't change when you turn the steering wheel.
The engine starts and runs smoothly with plenty of power.
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At a loss right now. My 2004 F150 4X4 and just recently started sounding like the truck is trying to shift into 4X4 mode while driving it. It stops if it's switched into 4X4. I have taken it to a local mechanic shop I use and they said it was the Actuators and they replaced those. I got it back and the same day the noise came back. Took it back and they have had it for another week and still unable to figure it out. I even took it to another shop that was highly recommended and they say to take it to a Ford dealership. I have read that some say it could be the vacuum operated hubs? Need to figure out what it was and had it fixed?
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I have a recently purchased 2005 Prius- Mileage-150.3k having several lights on the dash: ABS/VSC/Engine Check/ Brakes, etc. See attached screen shot. Initially, I got into the shop and had the codes read out several codes. In all, I was informed the root cause was a bad 12v and bad hybrid batteries. By this time , the car was still moving, though not very smoothly. however, less than a week thereafter, the car couldn't start again.
We decided to replace the 12v first, hoping to get it back to start but it wouldn't. I've checked the fuses in the engine compartment as well as on the steering column- all okay. I've checked battery voltage, it's now at 12.3v. When I try to start, the Ready light would simply flash for 2-3 seconds before going off. I've rechecked battery connections as well as the brake controls by the 12v battery- all well tightened.
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About two months ago, one of our two headlights was out. I came to Prius Chat -- of course -- to find out if I had to buy the super expensive ones from the dealer. Everyone seemed to agree that the best bet was to buy them from Amazon. We did. The dealer charged to install them and it was quite a task, things had to be removed and I didn't watch, so i can't be all that specific. At first he thought he could just stick them right in, but then quickly realized it was the kind that are difficult to replace.
So fairly soon after this job was done, my husband -- who is the 99.9 percent of the time driver -- noticed that they both just went off. He drives a windey mountain road in the dark, so this is not okay. However, by merely switching them off and then back on again, the problem went away. I worry that this could get worse. Last night, I was driving the car in the night and had been on the road for at least 20 minutes or so, when they went off. I turned them off and back on, and all was well. So, what's up with this?
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I have a 2002 Mazda Protege' which recently started losing power periodically. At the same time, the check engine light would blink and then stay solid. The dealer diagnosed a random engine misfire and replaced the spark plugs, wires, and coil packs. It cost $500.00. After 3000 miles, the problem has returned worse than before. This weekend it lost and regained power repeatedly in short spans of time, and lurched back and forth as it happened. The check engine light returned as well.
My first question: what do you think this is? My neighbor suspects a clogged fuel filter or fuel regulator.My second question: what, if anything, does the dealer owe me financially?
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I need to change my plugs in my 06 5.4 122,000 miles truck is bucking and not right under acceleration but its my only transportation to work and I am afraid of breaking a plug and then having no clue what to do after that. Need input on making the plugs come out easier ...
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06' prius that I believe to be abnormal behavior. Just took the car on a 360 mile round trip. After about an hour of driving (Interstate 78mph) I happened to notice on the Energy screen that the car started to use the electric motor steadily for about 5 minutes of driving on flat terrain (Kansas). I watched as the SOC went from 5-6 bars down to 1-2 (purple). At which time the car started experiencing bouts of high rpm on level terrain/small hills. It stayed in this state for over 20 minutes or so of driving. It acted like it knew it needed to charge the hybrid battery, however the level never increased until such time as I exited the interstate and started braking. I am assuming that the HV battery should rarely discharge that much traveling at highway speeds on flat terrain.
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2006 prius. Yesterday gave a jump to a friend with a motorcycle. After I got back in the car, no electricity whatsoever. Jumped my prius using another car, started fine and drove home, no warning lights. Same thing though after turning the car off, no electricity at all, can't start it.
Eventually figured out that I had blown the 120A fuse, so replaced it and the car starts fine now. But... I get the triangle with the exclamation point, and the car with the exclamation point on the mfd. What might be causing this? Battery reads 12.5v with car off. I find it a little strange that I didn't get any warning lights when I jump started it, but do now that it starts from its own 12v battery.
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I am the original owner of a 2006 Prius with 98,000 miles on it. Three summers ago it developed a problem where on very hot days (well above 90 degrees) when first started it runs very poorly. It starts normally and has no trouble light come on. It does this even though the car may have sat in the sun for hours and the engine/cooling system is relatively cool. But for the first 5-10 minutes it hesitates and stumbles with acceleration (as if it had bad gas). In fact at first I thought it was a bad gas problem. It never actually stalls.
It does this with or without the air conditioning on. It runs fine the remainder of the year and runs OK when first started if parked in a garage or a shady area on a very hot day. I have replaced the spark plugs, air filter, oil & filter numerous times, & changed the transmission fluid-but still this problem persists summer after summer. The traction battery fan is always on from initially starting the car every time this problem occurs. Could this be a battery problem? And if not, what then?
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Started yesterday. Dry road. Brand new Perrelli P4s . at about 60-65 traction control comes on and car starts doing the "surging". I had the same tires on it up to this point so except for being new,no difference.
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My new-to-me '07 Elantra has 109k on it & I'm not sure if the clutch is orig or 2nd. It doesn't slip in any gear, but the actual active section of pedal is really only the bottom 3". If the pedal is not on the floor board It isn't fully disengaged. When letting out the clutch it is effectively fully out after only 2-3" off the floor. With that said the 'free play' is only the very top 1/4-1/2" as it should be.
I've never had a clutch that felt as this one does, & I have 15yrs history driving manuals.
My first thoughts are:
1. clutch disc is almost gone & getting ready to start slipping
2. restrictor valve is clogged
3. slave cylinder is weak & not throwing full range anymore
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I'm a broke grad student with a 1995 Jetta. I've had it about four years, and it's mostly been all right. Granted, it's mostly held together with luck at this point--my dad's a former mechanic, and he did a fair bit of work on it before I moved a thousand miles away. The other day on my way to work, the car started bucking and shuddering, especially when I first started moving. I was very nearly out of gas, and I thought that might be the problem. I put some in and things got almost totally better almost immediately. Tonight, the car tries to start, but it won't catch. My dad thinks I have water in my tank. Would that do this?
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I read about Prius will not spin its wheels? if it loses traction, it somehow disengages the drive or otherwise does not power the wheels until they stop. Once they stop, the wheels can receive power again.
That's sure going to make it hard to do burnouts in the grocery store parking lot.
More importantly, it could make it hard to impossible to get unstuck on sand, gravel, mud or snow. It could also be hard to take off on a slippery incline.
Sure, this isn't an off road vehicle, but off the road ain't far from on the road and road conditions can get pretty rough.
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Since our weather has returned to the cold side......my truck has started bucking and hesitating at 45 mph with EOT @ 130 and ECT @ 140. I can gas on it and it will clear up/let off and it would start up again once it gets below 50 mph. Once the deltas reach 150+ it clears up completely. Its never done this until this week. FICM volts are steady @ 48V. What is causing this or what to look for?
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My 2004 Camy XLE 4 cyl has developed an intermittent problem. So far this has only happened after the car has sat in the sun at my office for the day and the temp is around 90. When I begin to take off the transmission disengages intermittently and the engine light comes on. After a couple of miles the problem stops, but the engine light stays on. Usually the light goes off the next day.
I have had the car to dealer. First time reset code P0500 and problem returned. Second time, dealer found update for engine control module. "performed to reflash ECM per TSB 0072-04.
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2000 Ford Excursion, 7.3 PS with 210,000 miles. I am on I40 at a truckstop. I was rolling down the freeway last night when the truck started bucking. I pulled of the freeway and here came a thunderstorm. I waited til this morning to check for codes cheap scanner. I pulled a code P1211. I waited for NAPA to open so I could take it in the shorts. I bought a fuel filter and an ICP sensor. After changing them out, the truck runs then starts missing. My battery is about to die so I will finish post shortly.
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