Prius (2004-09) :: 2006 Vehicle Won't Start And Goes To Neutral
Sep 23, 2010
I've searched & still haven't resolved my problem.
View 19 RepliesI've searched & still haven't resolved my problem.
View 19 RepliesI just received a phone call from my wife stating her prius automatically goes to neutral.
She mentioned there were not any odd noises. Just that once in drive it automatically goes to neutral.
The car is now parked in a lot until I go and take a look.
I just bought a 2006 Prius about a month ago (57K). I love the car and have been educating myself on all things Prius, This car has also made me change my driving style quite a bit. I am getting around 50 MPG (combined) and very happy about it.
I have been using some of the hypermiling techniques to get the mileage, one of the things I do is to put the car in Neutral (to emulate the Glide portion of the Pulse and Glide) especially when coming down a gradient. I was bit concerned about using the Neutral gear and called Toyota Corporation to get a clarification, The answer I got from Toyota was - there is no technical issue, however they do not recommend this be done for safety reasons.
I'm sure it's been mentioned before, but if you need to put an 01-03 Prius into Neutral with dead battery (i.e. to push the car so you can reach it with jumper cables) you need to remove the rectangular panel on the bottom drivers side of the steering column. It's tiny, smaller than a postage stamp. Use a strong pen-knife or very small screwdriver to pop the panel out.
You may want to remove the panel when things are good, so if you ever have to use the gearshift release you don't have to hunt around for a knife since it's on pretty tight from the factory. (just leave it off once removed).
I took my 2005 Prius to dealer and was told both battery computer and battery CPU were bad (easy $4,000.00 fix). So, I pulled big battery, located bad cell and replaced with similar voltage (7.9 VDC used cell). After re installing, the car will only go to neutral and will not start. Note, before tear down, car would start and run (I drove home from dealer). Before pulling big battery I could reset trouble lights for short time by removing ground to AUX 12V battery. Now, lights don't change and are always on. Car will not start or run and will only go in "Park" and "Neutral" and "B" does not show on dash like usual.
View 19 RepliesThe car is a 2005 Prius II hatchback @ 70,000 miles. I like my local garage and they have a good reputation but bad things keep happening. I'm ready to lose my temper but I don't want to. Here's the summary:
3 weeks ago - Started getting the red triangle of death. Had trouble starting. Finally, the car would start, but only go into park or neutral. Towed to garage. Garage put in a new 12 V battery. The car drove away from the garage nicely.
I have a 2008 Prius. I drove it around in Florida for a few days and everything ran great, but about 4 hours into the trip back to Minnesota, the red ! triangle light came on with a message on the display screen. It said "There is a problem with the transmission "P" lock mechanism Park your your car on a flat surface and fully apply the parking brake." This happened as I was driving, so I pulled over and did what it told me. After shutting down the car, I tried starting it back up and none of the gears worked. P, R, D, or B.
The message still displayed and the red ! light was still on. After shutting it on off several times, it finally started. No warnings. I found the nearest Toyota dealer and had them check it out. They found nothing but one short circuit, around the same time the warning lights would have gone on. I googled the problem, and it seemed like everyone was saying the problem is caused by a bad 12V battery, so I told the dealer to put in a new one. I was on the road again. However, the first stop I made for gas and sure enough, the light came back and I couldn't get it into a gear without restarting the car several times. I just hope I won't need to spend any more money on this 2 year old car.
Does your Golf R Rev past 5K when at a standstill in Neutral? I just finished installing the New South performance Gauge. I routed the boost line hose through the firewall. I used the supplied T fitting and replaced the stock one. I hooked everything up but the power for the boost gauge, just testing and checking everything before I proceed.
I put back on the battery without replacing the battery clamp at the bottom. But I connect and tighten the terminals. I am testing it now to see if all is functioning as it should. I start up the car, and I the vac sucks down to -10 PSI as I expect it.
Then I give it a rev to see if it will build boost. Almost immediately I notice a problem. Seems that the engine wont rev past 4-5K.
So I think, okay, well I probably didn't tighten it down properly, and I have a boost leak. So I pull off the engine cover, and put back on the stock hose. clamp it down, put back on the engine cover, and start the engine again.. The same thing... wont rev past 4-5
I look on the dash and two things pop up. one, the check tire light, and two the tires slipping light is solid. (I thought that VW didn't have active TPS sensors in the these cars anymore, but instead are using wheel rotation to calculate air pressure loss, if this is the case, then why would the check tires light just turn on when it wasn't moved. Could the fact that I disconnected the battery cause an issue? with this?)
I am still thinking boost leak. So I get some soapy water and spray around the only hose that I took off on all the joints, I put back the cover and connect the MAF again. then I start the engine, I figure a few revs will build enough boost to show any leaks in that area with bubbles. But no bubbles...
So now I am wondering if VW put a safety that prevents the engine from revving past 5k when in neutral. I would rather not move the car, until I know for sure that there is nothing wrong.
I've been dealing with this for over a year. 97 s-10 (4.3, 4wd, 5spd) always wants to keep revving. When I put it in neutral and coast, the rpms rise. When in gear, it powers itself down the road even when I'm off the gas. The part that really gets me, is that it will keep revving in neutral until the vehicle comes to a COMPLETE STOP. Then, it drops to a nice idle within 2-3 seconds. I don't understand what the momentum of the vehicle has to with the revving of the engine when its in neutral.? I replaced the IAC valve (and set the pintle) and tried to clean up everything I could. It seemed to be better for only a little while. Faulty new part? Is the IAC getting "gummed up" quickly because of something else?
View 3 RepliesLove the car, but in the last 2-3 three weeks it just randomly refuses to start. Turns over fine but seems like its not getting fuel. It is most likely a relay that needs replacing. This relay apparently controls the computer and the fuel pump. Maybe I'm just looking in the wrong place. I hardly dare drive my car anywhere now for fear It will not start when time to go home.
In the meantime, I seem to be able to get the faulty relay to function (if that really is the problem here), by making sure lights and radio are turned off, and by turning ignition key just one click (listening to be sure fuel pump has loaded the lines) before actually starting the car. No point in running battery low cranking engine over and over, waiting for that magic moment when the car suddenly starts like there was never any problem at all.
I have a 2006, Nissan, Altima, 3.5se. The vehicle has about 75k miles on it, and is driven about twice a week. I have had no issues until recently. The problem is the vehicle will not start. About three weeks ago I notices one of the bulbs in the headlight and fog lamps had gone out so I replaced them. (I only share this because it is the only thing that changed. Shortly there after I would go out start the car, drive a short distance, park, turn off the car, and come back 15-20 minutes later. When I went to start the car there was no electrical activity .
The battery was completely dead. I had the battery tested, and replaced, thinking this was the problem. Nope still does it. Next I changed all the fuses, thinking a fuse might be going bad, nope issue is still there. I had the new battery tested- it is good, I had the alternator tested 2 different times, it is running and charging the battery. There is nothing left on to drain the battery, as I have turned off the auto door light, unplugged all the phone chargers, and it still does it. When the car won;t start there is no electrical activity. When I go to jump start it it jump starts immediately. It does not cut off while driving. The problem is only when I go to start the vehicle. The alternator comes to mind, but it doesn't cut while the vehicle is idling or driving.
Vehicle was repaired after front end collision and I get no codes found on scanner, had some bad connectors which I replaced and codes went away. I don't get ready light and the dash lights do not cycle off (ABS, SRS, Check engine, Etc. Etc.) The car will shift into neutral but not drive or reverse. Has new Aux battery and Hybrid battery is showing two bars. What to check ?
View 6 RepliesWhen I start my vehicle, it makes a grinding noise, sounds like it's coming from the front of the vehicle, when I put into gear it stops. It started gradual and is getting worse. It's a 6 cylinder automatic, with 108 k miles.
View 3 RepliesI have an 06 Lincoln MK LT with 147K miles. Just recently when it went into overdrive it was like I shifted into neutral. Pushed the overdrive off button and it drove just fine although no 3rd gear (overdrive). what do I need to do here other than paying for new tranny.
View 2 RepliesTransmission trouble on an 2006 F150 5.4 triton ... The problem I am having is when you are driving down the road once you hit 30 mph and it goes to shift into the its like it goes into neutral. It does that rill you slow back down to a lower speed then it shifts back down the transmission picks right back up till you get up to speed again, then it like it goes into neutral again. When I turn overdrive off it won't shift out of second gear. I have changed the valve body to the transmission to no success.
View 3 RepliesI just got 2006 with 189K miles.
I have replaced spark plugs and PCV valve this week and considering replacing front struts (complete assembly) as the car rides somewhat stiff and hits potholes rather hard.Tires are newer.
Car has never seen snow and has not rust issues. Rubber boots on both struts are damaged. Vehicle also makes clicking sounds on potholes. CV joints are good, no visible damage.
I have a Gen 1 that won't start after sitting. ECU considers the pack disconnected. 12v brand new.
What is the easiest way to get it going without removing the pack?
I went to leave work yesterday and my ICE would not come on. Several lights came on including the red triangle and the hybrid system warning light. The add fuel popped up on the display and then the fuel gauge goes from one pip to all ten pips flashing. I was not actually that low on fuel as lately the add fuel message has been popping up when I have about 4 gallons left. I wonder if the car just thinks I am out and so won't kick the engine on. There is no tension on the gas pedal.
A coworker had a diagnostic reader and did a reading. We got codes U0100, C1259, and C1310.
I replaced my 12V battery about two years ago and replaced my big battery 15 months/25,000 miles ago. I am at 133,000.
I did drive through some kind of high water a week ago. I didn't think it had an effect though, but possibly. I have been able to drive about 100 miles since then. However, I drove through the water, left the car at a friend's to go out of town, came back 5 days later. When I started my car after coming back, the engine kind of shook and made a strange noise. This lasted about 10 seconds. I drove home and it seemed fine for the next 100 miles.
I wonder what's the difference between Stealth (no arrow on display at all) and Neutral Gear? The reason I ask is, Neutral Gear is much easier to maintain than Stealth.
Also, when I break moderately hard, it seems like the CVT gear is put to low, so for every yard I travel, more rotation on charging motor. Since Toyota did a great job on transition between regeneration and brake pads, I can't tell when brake pads start to work. Any indications?
After getting on the highway, the red triangle of death, the amber ABS and the VSC lights came on, and little exclamation point came on on millage/audio screen, while battery power went down from high blue to one blue bar. Pulled car over to parking lot, and put in park. After putting it in park, the car would not go out of neutral, but the power still worked.
View 15 RepliesWe love our 04 Prius (190K, still original brakes, etc.). Today we encountered a strange problem. My wife was driving and pulled into a parking lot. She could not turn the car off , remove the box key, or shift out of neutral. No warning lights.
After about 10 min. the car would drive again. We've now cycled about 5 times (i.e. driven somewhere) and it seems OK. We replaced the 12V battery a couple of years ago and haven't seen any problems in that area.