Prius (2004-09) :: 2006 - Removing Brake Actuator Resistor?
Nov 2, 2013
The brake actuator on our 2006 Prius (95K miles) was activating (pump turned on) every 20 seconds or so. I used AutoEnginuity (AE) software to monitor the pressure of PACC (accumulator pressure sensor) and the pressure dropped rapidly once the sensor voltage got up to around 3.1 volts; therefore, the pump would activate again and this cycle would keep repeating as long as the Prius was turned on. Therefore I decided to replace the brake accumulator and its associated resistor. I purchased a new brake actuator and its associated resistor from Toyota. The brake accumulator replacement went well but when I tried to locate the resistor to replace it, I was dismayed to see that the old resistor is very hard to access (even though I took most of the dash apart to find it).
In my 2006 Prius, the resistor is on the driver's side near the body and high up under the dash. I think I understand the reason for matching the resistor value with the resistance of the pump windings but I am going to use the old resistor and see how noisy the pump is. BTW I referenced Toyota website (TIS) for how to do the replacement procedure and now I am going to see how good AE software (latest version) is at bleeding the various components. This is FYI when replacing the brake actuator and wanting to know where this resistor is located and how difficult it is to access.
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i tried to fix my door actuator in my 2009 prius. However after I closed my door, now I can't open it from the inside or outside. I can reach in the door and manually pull the level on the actuator and is still will not open.
Now I just want to get the actuator out and put a new actuator in. Hopefully this is possible and if so how? Yes I still have the interior panel off and the vapor barrier pulled back
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The dealer told me my actuator and solenoid failed. I have a 2009 and less than 60,000 miles. I believe there is something wrong with those parts and they shouldn't fail at two years old. What do you all know about this?
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My 2007 Prius (151,000 miles) just started making what sounds like a scraping sound when in motion. This does not happen every time I drive it. The dealership said I need to replace the brake fluid actuator pump.
He couldn't really tell me what would happen if I don't have it fixed. He said perhaps the power brakes would go out, or maybe the anti-lock brake system. Either way, I don't want to mess with possible brake failure. But the cost of this repair is so high, and my car already has 151,000 miles. I'd love to drive it to 300,000 miles if I can, but am I being realistic? I'm wondering if it's worth investing this much money in a car with so many miles.
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I have noticed that when I open the door to the driver's side after the car has been sitting overnight that the pump noise is longer than half a year ago when i bought it used. It used to last for max. 3 or so seconds, and now it takes 5-10s - depends. I can get into car and almost get it into ready and then it ends.
Also, every second or third time i press the brake (normal, like when stopping gently) i can hear the sound of the pump for around 2 seconds. I don't remember that happening before so is this or isn't normal?
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Just picked up a high mile f-150 (146,000) 4x4 light not coming on. Jumpered out the vacuum solenoid first, nothing. Then found out I could try to tap on the actuator motor at transfer case. it worked,. Just wondering if i keep exercising the actuator motor, if it will continue to work, sounds like the previous owner did not put it in 4x4 for a long time. Also, if needed, where is a good place to purchase the replacement actuator motor? If this truck has heated seats ( it is a lariat), where is it controlled from? .... Seems to ride a little rougher than I expected. New tires, but it seems a little harsh. I have an f-350 as well. It seems to ride just about as good.
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A few weeks ago, I received the triangle light in my 2007 Prius with 125k miles on it. When I took it to the dealer, they said that the hybrid battery needed to be replaced. A new battery was ordered & installed by the dealer, which took a couple weeks as the battery wasn't in stock. When I picked up the Prius this week, within driving it a couple miles, it was apparent the A/C wasn't working. I took it right back to the dealer who said they'd look into it. When the Service sales guy started it again, it made a very strange noise as well, which it never did before. The dealer has come back and said that not only has the A/C Compressor out but the ABS actuator is also failing. They are saying this has nothing to do with the battery replacement but both these items were working fine before having the battery replaced
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I have a 2007 Prius and recently both my driver side front door and driver side rear door lock actuator failed. I browsed and found part number to replace the driver side front door lock assembly. I wasn't very confident in my ability to replace the assembly, but I decided to give it a shot, so I ordered the part. The part arrived today and my wife and I just finished successfully replacing the assembly. It was a little challenging, but now that we know how to do it we could probably do it again in half the time.
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2007 Prius here. A few months ago I had a similar problem. Basically when putting my hand on the door sensor, the doors would cycle through unlocking (noise, lights flash etc) without actually unlocking. If I keep pulling the handle after each attempt it seems to go forever.
The front passenger door also did not lock under any circumstance.
Took it into Toyota, they absolutely screwed me I now realize, $900 to replace a door actuator in that passenger door.
Worked fine for a few weeks. Then all of a sudden, problem started again. Just like last time, slowly slowly over the course of 2 months, it got worse and worse until today I could not open the driver side front or rear door at all.
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The left driver's side wheel is "stuck." The car is up on the jack, the lug nuts are all off, but the wheel will not come off.
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Today I took my 2006 Toyota Prius with 167,000 miles out to drive my dog to the vet. I turned the car on and deactivated the parking break and noticed the light stayed on, then I noticed the VSC and ABS lights stayed on as well.
My car was parked backwards on a driveway incline for about 14 hours. My 12v battery is old, not sure what shape it is in. The hybrid battery was replaced 2 years ago. I have been reading up and i guess it could be a sensor, skid sensor, 12v battery, or some sort of pump. Also, my parking break has felt a little weak as of late.
The car still drives, not sure if it drives funny or psychologically I think it does.
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How to disable the 12v DC-DC converter or what fuses I can remove besides the fusible link in the fuse box? I cant even find a writeup on how to remove that fuse...
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Well, I took the rear brakes apart without paying close enough attention. My problem began when I noticed the rear brake self adjusters' forks were not symmetrical. Although both have a deep slot and a shallower 'shoulder' between the 2 tines of the fork, they are different depths and the 'tines' are different lengths, so there are four ways to reassemble them: both deep slots positioned toward the dust shield, both deep slots positioned away from the dust shield, deep slot on the starwheel end positioned toward the dust shield with the deep slot on the other end positioned away from the dust shield, or deep slot on the starwheel end positioned away from the dust shield with the deep slot on the other end positioned toward the dust shield. I've seen photos with the adjusters in place, but the slot positions are not clear. I've seen photos of the adjusters off, but no indications of how they fit on the shoes. Can't find a diagram or instructions anywhere.
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I just purchased this vehicle from a private owner, and the first day everything seemed fine. After a few days I get all these warning lights - Master Warning (Red Triangle !), VSC, and the Brake Light, plus the NAV screen shows the red car with ! in it. The car seems to run just fine though. I don't notice any performance issues. One thing I did notice when I purchased the vehicle, the previous owner had a batter charger in the trunk before he took it out.
Now I've check the batter using the LAN Monitor and it shows like 12.1 volts when I turned the car on (not started). I decided to give the batter a deep charge overnight (2 amp charge) after disconnecting NEG terminal from car. It cleared the codes for a little while, but then they came back. My ODB II tester shows no codes, only codes I found on the LAN Monitor was for NAVI - 01-e3 sub 00-5. Do I need to replace the 12v Battery?
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Looking for a video or directions on removing the front seats (driver and passenger) so that I can take them out of the car and give them a very thorough cleaning. Possible with a hose on a sunny day so they dry fast. I couldn't find it under the search option.
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The molding around my windshield on my 2007 Prius is looking pretty bad, looks like dried out Sun damage but doesn't leak. Is it replaceable without removing the windshield?
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I know that the brake actuator on the early LS460s has an issue. How do you know it's actually failed or is failing?
Do the brakes stop working?
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I have google it looked all over was told it was under the hood next to the fan even shown a photo when I went under the hood right were the resistor was in the photo there was a long black box about 4 inches long and 2 inches wide. looked nothing like the photo.
So I went back on line and read that its above the passengers feet you take a few screws off after you take the glove box off and it should be there. Well after taking 8 screws off I find nothing but a coil behind there. Nothing that looked like a resistor.
2006 f350 diesel?
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I have searched and heard a lot about the brake actuator problems... but the noise I get is not a clicking noise.
My brakes have a noise when i press the brake all the way down and release it quickly... but its much more of a quick "scrubbing" noise... .almost a "creaking"... is this the brake actuator? or something else? I just recently got new pads and rotors at NTB... and the sound seems to have come after the install. i took it back in and they said they had no clue. Also , they did bleed the brakes when they installed new pads and rotors...
The noise really only happens when the car is in gear lunging. In park it happens one in 10 times as opposed to every time in gear.
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I recently purchased an 08 ls 460 and started noticing the infamous clicking sound coming from the ABS brake actuator under the hood. A $3000plus fix that is not in the budget nor will it ever be!..After doing some research trying to figure out what the actuator does i stumble across this Lexus technician PDF ...
..It clearly states on page 2 that "If a Toyota ABS system malfuctions, normal braking will not be affected!...My worry has never been the sound it makes,.. but that of me not being able to brake when needed!!...
[URL]...
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I have noticed a lot of things on the web on modules that promise increased MPG and power by adding a resistor on the IAT sensor. As much as I like the idea of increased MPG and power for cheap, if it doesn't work, I don't want to waste my time. So, what is the consensus on this type of modification? Will this mod be effective or only be a waste of time?
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