Prius (2004-09) :: 2006 - Rear AC Won't Shut Off?
Feb 26, 2013
i have a 2006 prius with 110k on it and a few days ago all the warning lights started coming on (check engine, vsc, red triangle, (!) ) this morning the car was completely dead so i replaced the 12v battery and it startedup fine and the lights all went away. i drove a few miles to work and the lights came back on and the rear ac will not shut off. it just keeps blowing full blast and the engine will not cut out at idle like it normally does. im assuming this is because it is trying to power that rear ac.
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As stated above, our 2006 Prius with 28,000 miles gurgles when we arrive to our destination & turn the motor off. It makes this sound for about one minute & then stops. What this might be & how to correct if needed ?
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We just replaced the inverter pump thinking this was the problem but it is still making noise. System has no air in it. What else can it be?
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Car just stopped, she said. Wouldn't go. Police told her to try to move it; it ran okay, she said.
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I just got a 2006 prius with a wobbly rear spoiler. I pulled it off and took some pictures....It seems like there might be something missing, or is it just that the plastic round things are chipped and thus, the spoiler recesses are not grabbing on? It looks like the round plastic things are riveted in, which I assume will make it difficult to replace.....
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I have a 2006 Prius and the rear hatch washer fluid sprayer does not spray (wipers work fine). The front window fluid sprayer works fine and I'm told that they work off of the same motor/fuse and reservoir.
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I have a 2010 Elantra where the rear driver door randomly won't shut. The lock intermittently won't engage and the door just swings back at you. Happened twice and I just thought nothing of it and played around until it closed. I was at my dealership (for another problem) and I opened that door to get something out of the backseat and the door just swung back at me when I shut it. They kept the car and lubed it up and said it was working fine. 2 weeks later it happened again when I was running errands and it took me half an hour to get it to close again.
This particular thing apparently isn't covered under warranty so my solution was don't open the door. Now my trunk is doing it too! The trunk has always sporadically opened on its own every now and then and I always thought maybe I was pushing the button on the transmitter... Nope! My car went back to the dealership for the trunk and the door. They got my trunk to close by "fiddling around" and couldn't recreate the door not closing and both APPEARED to be working fine. The next day the trunk wouldn't close again. I got it to close by playing around with the lock and the transmitter. It opened again while I was driving.
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The outlet holes do not appear to be blocked and I cannot hear a pump motor running when trying to clean the rear window. Is there a separate pump to supply fluid to the rear window?
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I have a hairline crack (with some starring) on my left rear tail light of my 2006 Prius touring. Any good glue or compound to patch it up and prevent water/moisture/dirt from getting in there and still stay clear for light to shine through?
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I have Toyota Prius 2006. Last night suddenly the rear right door didn't open from inside and it still doesn't want to open from inside. It opens from outside OK but is not opening from inside regardless what we are trying to do. It only one door misbehaves, the right rear door. How to fix this problem and why it happened?
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2006 prius 130k ...
I replaced the rear drum brakes, wheel cylinders, and bled the brakes. I discovered on drivers side, that no matter how much bleeding, the brake does not engage on the rear drivers side. While bleeding, I discovered very little pressure. The brake light, VSC, ABS, and ! lights remain lit while the cars on. Does this sound like a master cylinder or ABS failure? Can the autoenginuity scan this issue?
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Well, I took the rear brakes apart without paying close enough attention. My problem began when I noticed the rear brake self adjusters' forks were not symmetrical. Although both have a deep slot and a shallower 'shoulder' between the 2 tines of the fork, they are different depths and the 'tines' are different lengths, so there are four ways to reassemble them: both deep slots positioned toward the dust shield, both deep slots positioned away from the dust shield, deep slot on the starwheel end positioned toward the dust shield with the deep slot on the other end positioned away from the dust shield, or deep slot on the starwheel end positioned away from the dust shield with the deep slot on the other end positioned toward the dust shield. I've seen photos with the adjusters in place, but the slot positions are not clear. I've seen photos of the adjusters off, but no indications of how they fit on the shoes. Can't find a diagram or instructions anywhere.
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I have a UK right-hand drive Prius gen 2 2006 T4 model.
My rear door on the driver's side won't unlock. it appears to be stuck in double locked mode. It cant be unlocked manually from inside the car and the lock button just springs back to lock position (as you'd expect it to do when in double lock mode).
I can lock/unlock the car other 3 doors using the fob, I can lock/unlock the cars other 3 doors using the internal button on the driver's door.
I suspect there must be a failure of the lock motor or solenoid inside the door but I cant figure out how to get the door unlocked just so i can get the trim off and check. What the cause or remedy could be?
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I've got an 06 F150, 5.4l crew cab lariat. So to start, I had a programmer screw up my ECU, so when I got it re programmed at ford, everything works except for the ABS sensors. I recently had someone break into my truck and broke my stereo when they couldn't get it out. So I was driving home from work the other day and lost my whole instrument cluster, windows wouldn't roll up or down, wipers worked very slowly until not at all. shut off the truck and wouldn't restart. I jumped it and started it. ran fine. with the exception of the previous problems. I noticed when it got dark out that my my taillights and head lights were on very dimly with the switch off. Also hearing a clicking sound coming from under the truck, at the back of the cab and front of the bed. the only thing electric that's back there is the fuel pump (i believe). I am at a complete loss.
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This is a new issue for my 2006 Prius. All seemed to be functioning normally until recently. Now, when my headlights are on, and the highbeams are off (highbeam lever pulled back), when I shut my car off, my highbeams come on. I then have to push the highbeam lever forward to shut them off. When the car is turned back on, if the headlights are turned on, the highbeams come on. I have to pull the lever back to shut them off. In other words, the correct "on/off" position for the highbeam lever is dependent upon whether the car is turned on or off. This has resulted in a number of occasions of my parked car being left with the highbeams on, draining the battery, and me coming back to a dead car.
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In the last week the prius has been acting weird. Car goes back to IG - ON after I shut off. I have a 2006 155k miles prius
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Need to repair or replace the hardware for the lower Glovebox latch for 2004 Prius....
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When Powering off my 2004 Prius, here's what happens: Press Power button, Power button and Dash display(above the sterring wheel) go off, while the MFD screen stays on(center console) - although temperature is no longer reported on the consumption screen, the consumtion screen is still on, power outlets stay on, and clock is still on. Car refuses to lock driver's door, even with keyfob located outside of car. Car beeps as though still on - I disconnect 12V battery to leave vehicle(and not wear down the 12V). Happened for 3-4 days, went away for a week, and its been back for a week since.
Traced problem so far to the three cables behind the 6 CD changer/radio unit. If the middle of the three plugs on the back of the radio/CD player is unplugged, the problem goes away, so does my bluetooth audio. I need to be able to use handfree while driving in my state, also haven't figured out what else is gone when that cable is unplugged. Radio, CD Player, and Navigation still work with sound when that same middle cable is unplugged.
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I recently borrowed an engine code scanner after my check engine light went on and got a P0505 code on my 2004 Prius with 185,000 miles and started to fix things. I replaced the PCV and spark plugs as well as the air filter. It ran fine, but decided to also clean the MAF using CRC MAF cleaner and also clean the throttle body and butterfly using CRC Throttle Body cleaner. I also carefully washed out the engine compartment using Gunk Foamy.
I seem to have put it all back together, but now the ICE won't shut down, even when warm, and actually wants to rev beyond what seems to be needed. I got another scanner and got some stuff that I honestly don't understand. It said 2 codes then gave me P0505 followed by:
Mil On
Monitor 0 inc
6 ready
misfire
fuel
comp
catalyst
evap
O2 sensor
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I measured battery on my 2007 Prius by MDF, it's only 11.9V, charging is about 14V. When I turn on ACC mode, and Radio is on, I think it shut down the radio after about 15minutes; I cannot put the car in ready mode after it shut down. I have to jump it in order to put in ready mode. Is it my turn to replace this auxiliary battery?
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I have a 2007 with 46,000 miles. Today I went out to run an errand and when I got to the store, the start button would not shut off. At the same time the dashboard went dark so no speed or mileage could be seen, but no warning lights came on. I tried pressing it repeatedly to no avail.
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