Prius (2004-09) :: 2006 - Oil In Throttle Body Area
Jan 5, 2014
Just purchased one of the members 2006 Prius. It wasn't in good condition and I knew that upfront. The price I paid justified the imperfections on the car. The car has 117k miles and it does burn oil. To the tune of 1 qt every 3000 miles according to the seller. However I believe it burns more than that amount now. I changed the oil and the dipstick reading was slightly below the minimum mark. The engine doesn't sound all that great but seems to run very well.
I was cleaning the throttle body today and noticed there is oil in that area. I looked down the throttle plate (not sure what that's called), and there was a layer of oil on the bottom. I know oil is not suppose to be in that area. What could this be?
The car had a leaking ice water pump and the coolant was a bit low, not sure if it could have overheated before.
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My 1997 ford explorer has this problem that when you start the engine it runs fine then it's makes a choking sound in the throttle body area I have a video of it on YouTube here's the link :
1997 Ford Explorer Engine Trouble !!! - YouTube....
And the truck doesn't give any ob11 codes.....
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I cleaned my daughters throttle body on her 2005 prius. Sprayed it down on the vehicle trying to fix my P0505 code and now its idling high. Is there a learn procedure to reset this after service.
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My prius has a coolant leak, which look like it's coming from the throttle body. The stealership recommends a new throttle body. The mechanic said he has not seen coolant leak from the throttle body before. Is this the only fix to replace the throttle body?
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I've tried searching everywhere, but can't seem to find the torque for the 4 bolts holding the throttle body to the plastic intake. This is on a 2az-fe engine in my 2004 camry. I imagine the torque would be the same for any Scion, RAV4, etc. that has the same engine.
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 4x4 with 170,000 miles. its running a little rough so I thought I would clean the throttle body. do you clean it on the truck or remove it?
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read a few posts over the years relating to dirty throttle body, but never understood them. At 60000 miles, should this be attempted by the average guy or just leave it alone if it aint broke?
Any pics addressing where is it, what makes it dirty, how to open it, what to clean it with and how often as preventive maintenance?
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I cleaned the MAF in my 2008 (58k miles) with CRC MAF cleaner and cleaned the throttle body as well. There was a small puddle of oil in the intake manifold from the previous owner overfilling oil so I cleaned that up as well.
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Trying to clean the throttle body on my 09 sonata 2.4L due to rough idle occasionally (throwing P0106, replaced MAF sensor still same problem), one quick question, is it okay to force the valve open (with connector disconnected of course), and is "re-learning" necessary and what's the proper way to do it?
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I have a 2004 V6 LE with about 135k miles. I cleaned the throttle body two weeks ago, just because I hadn't ever done it. It wasn't too dirty. Before the cleaning, it idled at < 1k revs. Now, when I start the engine cold, it revs at around 1500, sometimes higher. It goes back to normal after the engine warms up to operating temperature.
Also, I hear a very slight high-pitched whining (maybe hissing?) noise when I accelerate. The noise is more prominent when the engine is cold. I checked for vacuum leaks but couldn't find any.
It feels like I'm depressing the gas pedal a little bit when I have it in drive or reverse, and it wants to pull harder than usual. When I bring the car to a stop with light brake pressure, as it drops into first gear, the car gives a slight tug forward, again, as if the gas pedal is depressed. I mention this to show that it's not just an issue with the rpm at startup.
I suspect that the issue lies with the throttle position sensor, which I may have jostled when I moved the throttle valve. The method I used when cleaning was, I first tried opening the valve by hand with the ignition off, but the resistance was much higher than I had anticipated. So I did the key-in method by turning the ignition to ON and putting a brick on the gas pedal. There was a high-pitched whine coming from somewhere in the engine bay when the key was ON, which I had not noticed before; I wonder if that is normal.
This seems to be a rather common issue after cleaning the throttle body cleaning, but there doesn't seem to be any consensus solution besides to wait it out.
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2002 V6 Camry 145,000 miles, cleaned throttle body with TBC fluid, now starts runs for a few seconds and dies. In order to open the butterfly in cleaning I turned ign on and propped pedal down. After cleaning the car ran better but idle was high and a little erratic. I disconnected the neg batt for several hours, now it starts, but dies right away. In the cleaning process I had removed the throttle control sensor an reinstalled it. Can't keep it running long enough to adjust it.
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While driving home my yellow wrench light came on and I had no power at the pedal, even though the engine was idling smoothly. This happened with no warning and went away when I turned the truck off and restarted it. About 4 miles later it did it again. I immediately went to a nearby dealership only to find out my electronic throttle body needs replaced. Needless to say at this time of year 500+ dollars is not readily available, although I need my vehicle for work.
I do not know a thing about ETB's but did a little research online and found many aftermarket ones at a much better price than Ford's(surprise). My question I guess is what are my alternatives to factory replacement? Can I remove and clean this component or replace it with something of better quality? I'm not into high performance with my truck but if I could get a little better throttle response or gas mileage I'm all ears. My truck is a 2004 Supercrew 4x4 XLT w/ 5.4 Triton. Around 74,000 miles and well taken care of. Miles are nearly all highway.
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Got told by the dealer I need to replace my Mass Air Flow Sensor...to the tune of $657 dollars. And get a throttle body cleaning.
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2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
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Throttle body failures on the 5.4L 3v are more common than you think, luckily it will pop a code for the throttle body more often than not diagnosing. Symptoms include start and dies, no start, a really rough idle, surging idle up and down more so in park, poor brake assist due to rpm fluctuation and wrench light on. If you find yourself in this situation I show you how to change the throttle body and reset the pcm to learn the new idle trims.
Ford F150 F250 5.4L 3v Electronic Throttle Body Replacement P2135 - YouTube ....
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Ok,..I've got a late model '04 5.4 150, (some parts matched an '05). About 4 mos ago I noticed a loss of upper end power, no cel, but the temp gauge only went up halfway and stayed there. eventually got a code saying temp sending unit (under manifold) was bad. I replaced the sending unit, gauge started working, no cel, but still some power loss.
After a while, cel again says rt bank faulty knock sensor, pull manifold, replace both, plus changed all 4 oxygen sensors. Last few months no cel, but still some loss of power, local trusted mechanic, thinks it could be a clogged cat / cats,..I was pretty sure it wasn't, sure enough, no back pressure. I'm at a loss, I replaced the plugs at 95,000 has 125,000 now, idles and starts great.
It feels like an old distributor car with a sticky shaft that doesn't want to advance, once in a while it feels almost normal, now a lot of people might not even feel it, it will still go 90, but won't lay rubber for 30ft like it used to, might chirp but definitely something not right,..is there any way to confirm throttle body opening all the way? I don't think it would be wise to run it with air box off and by pass mass air sensor right?
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Few weeks ago.....Prius was showing the P0505 code .... Mechanic, ran diagnostics and determined it was dirty TB. Cleaned TB.....cleared the code (inspected PCV...hoses).
When I initially picked it up it was revving very high....so he hooked it back up to the scanner and did some type of "reset" for the idle (this cleared most some computer settings...back-up beep, radio stations, etc...). Everything ran fine for past 3 weeks...
Just last night..... started running rough again. What I noticed this morning ... Started it up and it ran very rough til the auto shutdown after warmup (no warning lights). Then....when I started driving slowly out of the lot...it ran "rough upon acceleration"...... Then fine at cruising speed. Same behavior at every light....rough acceleration.... fine once up to speed. Just started it up again and same behavior.....(does not die...just very rough).
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I brought my Prius, 128,000 miles, into the dealer with the check engine light on. Runs fine, and checked the gas cap. Toyota dealer said they need to replace 4 fuel injectors, replace oxygen sensor, and clean the throttle body. Check engine light needs to be off so I can pass emission test.
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I took my 2006 Prius into the dealership a few months ago for an oil change. When I drove the car away from the dealership I heard a weird pop from the area of the glove box. When I opened the glove box later to see what had happened, the glove box only opened about halfway. Some part of the spring mechanism had been compromised.
When I returned to the dealership telling them to fix the glove box, they examined it and concluded that the glove box was opening just fine. Looking for a brief video of upper glove box opening, to show the extent to which it fully opens on its own? I would like to present such a video to my dealership folks, who seem not to know how their own parts are meant to function.
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I got the Check Engine/VSC/Triangle of Death errors yesterday. Autozone reports it is P0A80 (replace Hybrid battery) though no additional details reported.
I'm the original owner, and after some reading suspect it could be something else because:
1. In 8 years, the starter battery has never been replaced.
2. For about two months, the throttle has been hesitating when first accelerating (within first five minutes of turning it on). Yes, it is the hot summer months (though mild compared to previous summers). And the hesitation occurs even in the morning before things really heat up. This is definitely even worse after the error lights came on.
I've seen recommendations to replace the starter battery first. And other recommendations for "throttle body cleaning." I'm not a mechanic, but obviously would hate to have the hybrid pack replaced if it is something else.
I got the Check Engine/VSC/Triangle of Death errors yesterday. Autozone reports it is P0A80 (replace Hybrid battery) though no additional details reported.
I'm the original owner, and after some reading suspect it could be something else because:
1. In 8 years, the starter battery has never been replaced.
2. For about two months, the throttle has been hesitating when first accelerating (within first five minutes of turning it on). Yes, it is the hot summer months (though mild compared to previous summers). And the hesitation occurs even in the morning before things really heat up. This is definitely even worse after the error lights came on.
I've seen recommendations to replace the starter battery first. And other recommendations for "throttle body cleaning." I'm not a mechanic, but obviously would hate to have the hybrid pack replaced if it is something else.
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So while driving yesterday I had a EPC and Check eng light come on and go away shortly after... maybe 1hr of drive time. Any way I took into dealer today to have them scan and they stated it was an issue with my throttle body.
Now as soon as he told me that he also said he can not do any work under warranty on my engine due to Stage 2 software and intake/down&mid pipe...... no big deal as I figured he would say something like that anyway. Should I take it apart and try to get it cleaned..... or what?
Its a 2010, with roughly 21k miles.... Had APR stage 2 for a few months now and this is the first thing that has come up.
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