Prius (2004-09) :: 2006 - Cracked Strut Boot On Passenger Side
Nov 14, 2015
While swapping on my winter tires yesterday, I noticed the strut boot (I believe it's called) on the passenger side has a large crack, almost split in two. See picture attached.
The Prius is a 2006 with almost 370K KM (~231K miles), and I am hoping to keep the car for another 1-2 years, until the PIP2 is out.
Is this something to be concerned about? The strut is not leaking, and the suspension seems otherwise fine.
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My 2006 Prius (Model NHW20) has a strange headlight problem. On the passenger side, the high beam light is out but the regular headlight works.
On the driver side, the high beam is working but the regular headlight is out.
I don't think it's the fuses but I'm not sure. No amount of interchanging the following fuses changes anything about the issue:
1. 10A H-LP HI RH
2. 10A H-LP HI LH
3. 15A H-LP LO RH
4. 15A H-LP LO LH
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I have a 2006 Prius that I purchased with no upgrade on the headlights. There was an upgrade available for high intensity lights, but, I didn't get them. The low beam on the passenger side headlight just stopped working. Two questions:
1. I was just told by the Toyota dealership that to replace the headlight, the entire front end of the car would need to be dropped. They just told me that with them supplying the bulbs, the cost would be about $250 plus tax. If I supply the bulbs, only about $200 plus tax. My owners manual indicates that this is a do-it-yourself project. Is this true or is the dealership trying to make money off of me?
2. When I do replace the lights, I would like to put in something that would put out more light than what I have now. I have been told to be careful because many replacement lights throw off so much heat that the housing around the bulb could melt. Also, I have read that some of these replacement bulbs have a very short working lifetime of 1-2 years. Obviously, I would want to keep away from them.
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I have a hairline crack (with some starring) on my left rear tail light of my 2006 Prius touring. Any good glue or compound to patch it up and prevent water/moisture/dirt from getting in there and still stay clear for light to shine through?
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What is the procedure for changing the passenger side boot on the power steering? I've read the Chilton repair manual, looks too easy.
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So the other day I was changing the oil on the SF, and I noticed a glob of grease (fist sized) on the passenger side of the frame. After cleaning up the mess it appeared that the grease was coming from the inner CV boot on the passenger side. From my position under the SF I could not see any obvious crack in the boot, and I also squeezed the boot and ran my finger around it in each of the bellows. I still didn't find any rupture. I then began to wonder if the boot had slipped off of the base of the axle. I pushed and pulled on the boot and could not really budge it.
In full disclosure I did change the front struts 2 weeks prior. My only thought is maybe I pulled the boot off somehow during that job. If that was the case though wouldn't I be able to move/dislodge the boot now?
FWIW there is no noise coming from the passenger side that would indicate the CV joint is bad or on its way out.
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I was bleeding my brakes today and when I took off the wheel on the driver side, I found grease on my rim. I can't believe that my outer cv boot is cracked for a car with less than 57K miles.
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My passenger-side motor mount is cracked out. Is this a common failure? The aluminum part that connects the "frame" to the engine mount is cracked, the hydraulic rubber mount looks almost new, not sure how the previous owner missed the crack in the aluminum. Car has 140K miles on it. I'm thinking about just having it welded up.
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I have a '98 Accord. It's got some issues and I am in the process of buying a new vehicle. But need to have a driveable car for work in the meantime. I have a torn boot on the front passenger side. Front brakes are also pretty worn down, not mention the Cat converter is shot and rusted. I'm getting a very loud, grinding noise when I turn to the left. Very loud noise. Some noise when turning to the right but not nearly as loud. My mechanic looked at the car a week ago and told me too many problems to fix the car, get a new one. which I am but it's taking some time. I'm just wondering if you think the car is likely safe enough to continue to drive until I get the new car. It's the loud grinding noise that freaks me out.
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2003 F150 5.4 4x4 supercrew ,76k miles
Recently the passenger side exhaust manifold cracked on my truck. I bought this truck about two years ago with 58k on it and currently have 76k miles. I remember getting the carfax report and being relieved to see that it had exhaust manifold replaced in July of 2014 at 49K miles along with a new EGR tube. I called the shop that worked on the truck to see if he could confirm that both manifolds were replaced since carfax only said manifold & egr tube. The shop manager confirmed that both manifolds were replaced and he told me that they were most likely manifolds from napa according to the part number.
Now, my question is, what's the best brand to replace the manifolds with? Should I just go with OEM and spend the extra $130 per side? I know the manifolds are a common problem with these trucks but only lasting three years and 27K miles just seems ridiculous to me.
I'm hoping that when I get around to actually doing this that they wont be to bad because of how recently they were replaced. For now I just cleaned the area with a wire wheel and used the inferno metal repair. Seems to have done the job but I don't expect it to last long, just another month or two until I move to a place where I can actually work on my vehicles.
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It seems that the install of my Doug Thorley headers didn't go as well as I thought. Turns out the passenger side header melted the bracket holding the heater lines and then punctured one of the lines when it rubbed against the header. Right now I'm not sure what to do. I noticed the melted bracket and pulled the fender well, but that's when I noticed the leak. I guess some of the melted plastic was keeping it from leaking everywhere until I removed it. I live in AZ so the rear heater isn't really necessary so if a stop gap measure is to bypass it then I'm game but I can't find any info on how to do it. If the only real solution is to get the entire line replaced then I'm a bit hosed I guess. 2001 V-10 4x4 BTW.
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Awhile back I did get my battery replaced and I did reset my windows so they could be used from the driver side panel. As of now, I can roll down all of them from the driver side except for the passenger side rear (window diagonal from driver). The window does roll down from the door itself so the window isn't broken. The light on the driver window switch is lit green, not blinking. However, the light on the window switch on the passenger door is NOT lit and not blinking either. And yes, I did make sure the window lock was not on.
Could the switch, either passenger or driver door, be bad? Should the battery be disconnected and reconnected??
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2004 Prius. When the brakes are applied, the passenger side brake light (LEDs) is dim compared to the driver side. Are the LEDs just dying a slow death? I always thought LEDs either work or don't.
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Just started experiencing an AC problem. First started with diminished cooling and airflow. Checked the filter and it was dirty, so replaced it. Airflow is completely restored however the air from the drivers side vents is significantly warmer than the passenger side vents.
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My driver side rear strut/shock has started leaking recently (I've attached a pic). Its counterpart on the rear passenger side is bone dry. My Prius is a 2010 with 78,000 miles, mostly city driving.
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It seems that someone hit my drivers side mirror on my 2004 gx and cracked the shell. The mirror works fine its just the outer plastic part is cracked. My question is i see on ebay some for sale but im not sure if they are glued together or clipped in. How to take off the cover and if so is it easy or not.
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I'm slowly going through my (new to me) GX470 that I bought about a month ago. I live in the big mountains and many people would say that the road I live on is a 4x4 trail, although I'm often on real 4x4 trails. On an outing today I noticed that with the air bags raised there is a loud banging sound when I go over any significant bumps. I would tick the switch to lower the air bags while going over bumps and the sound would instantly stop.
Based on that info, I presumed that I had a problem with the height sensors, causing them to max out the suspension travel. So I looked underneath and sure enough I have a cracked bracket on the driver's side sensor. So basically the cracked bracket bends as the suspension is going up until the suspension travel is maxed out.
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My 2006 F150 Lariat screw has a passengers side water leak that runs down under the passengers side dashboard on to the fuse box , electrical connections , etc... My rug is soaked ....
I thought it was the ac / defroster condensation drain issue covered in the TSB and did that fix ( not an easy job ! ), but that's not it. I sprayed water on the passengers side windshield and watched it leak on the inside. I broke down and took it to the dealership and they can't find the leak . They still have my truck ! They don't think it's a windshield leak and I don't either .
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Noticed that my drivers side back up plastic cover is cracked with a small hole in the top. Would like to RTV the damaged area to seal it but I need to remove it to make the repair. I've pulled some of the inner plastic on the door but can't get at the back up plastic cover.
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Alright so I ran into a problem I went to turn on my passenger side dome light in my '06 F150 supercrew and it will not turn on. i just replaced the bulb and still nothing. If it could possibly be a blown fuse or something simple?
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I have a 2006 Lincoln Mark LT with wear on the driver side bucket. Wanted to know if the buckets are interchangeable with passenger side? Just move controls to other side or can't be done?
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