Prius (2004-09) :: 2006 - Check Engine Light - P0420 Code / Air Leak In Exhaust
Sep 1, 2012
So today my CEL came on. I immediately looked at my mileage and I was EXACTLY at 500m past my oil change the other day. I checked the dip stick and lo and behold, it was about 3/4" past the full marker. I took it back to the oil change place and had them drain it down to a good level.
I had driven from NH to NY this week. I filled up my gas tank on my way home from NY. Gas cap was on nice and tight for sure.
The code is still on (not sure how many miles or drive cycles is required) for something to clear. I figured it was perhaps due to too much oil added. I decided a few hours later to take it to AutoZone and grab the diagnostic code. It's a P0420 code (Cat System efficiency below threshold: Air leak in exhaust before rear HO2S, AF Sensor Error, Fuel System Fault, Faulty Catalytic Converter).
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My check engine light has been coming on and off and it seems to show P0420 for catalytic converter. The light stays off for about a week and it'll come on for a day or two and off again.
Wouldn't a failed converter stay failed? Can P0420 be triggered by loose/bad gas caps?
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I bought an 04 elantra a few weeks ago. The check engine light is now on and I get code P0420 listed twice with my code reader. I have replaced the downstream O2 sensor and reset the codes only for them to return again. It is my understanding that this is going to be a convertor problem. My question is that from the research I have done it looks as though this car has two converters. One at the exhaust manifold and then another in the tailpipe. Which one is going to be the most likely causing my Check engine light to come on. Or do I need to replace both converters.
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Had the check engine light in the 2005 F150 (90,000 miles) come on. Got the code checked and its P0420. I know that has to do with the cat threshold levels etc. so I believe I am looking to replace the o2 sensor, if I am not mistaken.
How hard of a job is this? Ive done a decent amount of engine work and worked in a shop in high school. Just looking to see if that is the right thing to try first, replacing the sensor, before replacing the cat.
Also I know its the right bank, but if I am not mistaken there is a before and after the cat o2 sensor, which do i replace? Both?
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I have a 2011 F350 CC long box 4x4, with a 6.2, 93,000 km on it. I periodically get a P0420. I clear it and sometimes it comes back in 10 or 20 KM and sometimes it comes back in a couple hundred km. Been doing this for about 800 KM.
Yesterday I got an exaust leak at the joint where the exaust manifold meets the pipe beside the engine. Checked close, bolts appear intact, leak is on the outboard side blowing towards the frame. Looks like a gasket or donut seal failed.
I am wondering if the catalytic converter was plugged or restrictive, would this cause the P0420 and could back pressure from a restricted catalyitic converter cause the gasket to blow?
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MK4 GTi - My check engine light came on a few days ago and when I checked it, it pulled code P0420.
Just this morning, the check engine light went away.
Is this a common issue? Or should I go get it checked just in case?
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I have recently had about $1620 worth of work done on my 2000 4Runner because the check engine light came on and the code was P0420.. My invoice says they replaced the exhaust pipe assembly. Now 2 weeks later the light is back on with the same code...are the 02 sensors part of the "exhaust pipe assembly" or are they now going to tell me I need a bunch (2-4) 02 sensors replaced.
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My 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermittent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air inleakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?
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I was driving along today and my Check Engine light came on. I stopped at the nearest Advance Auto to have them pull the code and it came up with the P0420, Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1). I asked what could cause this and they mentioned that the fuel that was put in could be causing it. They didn't mention any other possible causes. Any others? I'm thinking it could be the fuel because the last gas station that I stopped at and filled up at is one that I never go to, and maybe just got a bad batch of fuel.
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I own a 2004 Ford Taurus (3.0L V6, OHV (12), non-flex fuel) registering a P0420 engine code. If I can smell exhaust fumes in the cabin, can I assume there is a leak in the catalytic converter system, or could the O2 sensors be the issue (or could it be the catalytic converter itself...)?
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I have a 2001 Malibu , I took my it in to find out why my cars engine light is on. They told me I have a small exhaust leak. Is this something I need to get fixed right away? How important is it that I get it fixed?
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Finally got my first check engine light at 108k miles. Pulled my codes with an OBD reader from Oreilley auto parts.
P1117 is Coolant temperature sensor circuit, low for coolant heat storage system.
Coolant heat storage tank outlet temperature sensor.
Short in temperature sensor circuit
ECM
I just wanted to make sure I had the right piece before I buy it. I did check the levels of my coolant and they are perfect, so I'm sure the sensor must be bad. I believe it'll just be a water temp sensor. I just want to make sure it's this, and not some random sensor I'm missing.
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we have a Prius from 2004.
We have had problems with the starter battery. This is because the car is so rarely driven. So to fix this I have charged the battery several times. But have not disconnected the battery cables before. I don't know if thats the reason why we have problems though. But you can suspect that.
One morning when we should drive the car we saw that the "check engine light" came up on the dashboard. And other warnings also.
I bought an OBD scanner and hooked it up. P3030..
So I took the hybrid battery out of the car and cleaned all poles and connections. I measured each battery cell to approx 7,6 V.
I also bought a new starter battery. Now, I have put all together again. But P3030 is still the case.
Is it possible to measure the voltages from the busbar module by measure on the contact to the ECU? I have tried that but don't get stable results. The voltages goes up and down all time..
My last hope is that a wire between battery busbar and ECU is broken. But I couldn't recognize that when I had the battery out of the car.
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My check engine light came on with a p1116 on my 2008 with 138k. I replaced the sensor, but the p1116 came back. How to fix. I'm going to replace the coolant today, I read somewhere there might be a clog.
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I had a check engine light and code 0420, which after researching I decided to replace the cat with an aftermarket - Magnaflow 99205HM. Spent some time driving around today and the light is back on!
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I was driving when the engine light came on. I always carry my OBD II reader in case this happens. Upon reading the code it gave a reading of PA080. Since I have a spare battery at home and have fixed 3 others for friends and family I was not to worried.
I arrived home and took out the battery to measure the voltages. To my surprise all voltages were good. I figure maybe it was corrosion so i tool the module bus harnesses and cleaned both the copper pieces and screws. After reinstalling all i took it out for a drive and after 20 minutes the check engine light came on. Bummer!
Went back home and disconnected the original HV battery and installed the spare HV battery and took the vehicle for a ride. All seemed good when the engine light came on again after 20 min. Removed that battery and all voltages were also good.
Troubleshooting began first by checking the 12V battery with an ohmmeter and it read 12.4 volts. Thinking this was good I jumped at checking the HV
battery including switching the CPU to no avail. In the process I left the HV battery disconnected which gave me codes indicating loss of communication with CPU scaring me even more.
Finally decided to take a break and look around on here and google when I found a better way to test for a week 12V battery. This test required me to let the car sit, turn lights on and press power button twice. If I got a red triangle and message indicating that the transmission sensor was in an abnormal state a weak 12v battery was to blame. So i went put to the car and tried it to my surprise I got the red triangle with transmission message.
So I went to OReilly and got a 12V battery for $170. Came home installed it and took Prius out for a drive. After 30 minutes no Check Engine Light. So far all good. I drove it to work and back home without an issue. This car has 141k miles and 12V battery was approx 5 years old.
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I got an 2009 toyota prius I was driving home one day and car shut off and check engine light came on after 10 mins of the car being off I try to turn it on, it started with the check engine light still on main battery light came off, I ran to AutoZone and got my car scan for codes and P0121 was my code tps my car has 120k miles what should I do clean the throttle body? Replace the sensor? How would I test the sensor if it's bad?
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I took a one owner 2009 with 100,00 miles for a pre-inspection today. All came back in fairly good shape however the mechanic ( an independent shop ) found this error code P1455. I took the car back to the dealer & said I was interested in the car if they looked into whether the gas tank would need to be replaced. The parts manager gave my husband and I a long speech about how they checked the car before it was traded in and never found this code. He explained that the code has to appear twice for the " check engine light " to come on. He told us he would take the car for a test drive himself & put it thru another diagnostic test to see if he could get another error reading. He will be getting back to us tomorrow. The dealer also said we could discuss in writing a timeline for them to repair it if the check engine light come on & ultimately a repair is needed.
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I'm guessing that I need to repair or replace the HV battery. But I'm not sure.
Today I drove for about 20 minutes with no issue. 10 minutes later, I got back in the car to drive again. This time, after about 20 seconds into the drive, a string of dash lights came on; Red triangle, VSC, Check engine.
The VSC light went away. But the red triangle and check engine light are still on. So, I had the trouble codes pulled by a mechanic, and the code P0A80 was returned along with a statement reading 'replace hybrid battery'.
Should I take this at face value? Or look for something else first?
2007 Prius - 150,000 miles
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I have a 2005 with 206,000 miles and the check engine light came on. The code reads "pedal position" but local mechanics are not knowledgeable to deal with electronics. The check engine light has been sporadic off and on so is this serious?
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Check engine light was on solid - so I hooked up a code reader to the OBD2. Went ahead and cleared code -- hasn't come back yet, but wanted to see what it might be indicating if it comes back on.
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